主厨的餐桌（2015）

"This guy's," You know, "He doesn't know what he's talking about.
他又不是厨师
He's not a chef.
他是法国人... 他经营漂亮的手表和珠宝
He's French... he does beautiful watches and jewels,
但是他对烹饪有什么了解呢?
but, you know, what does he know about cooking?"
所以我就回家睡觉了 同时还想着这件事 之后就再也忘不掉了
So I went home to sleep with that, and I never forgot it.
我内心感到了一种沉重
It was something heavy in me.
渐渐地 我意识到他说的是对的
In time, I realized that he was right.
我并不是在做正确的事
I wasn't doing the right thing.
我只是在试着一板一眼地模仿自己所学到的东西
I was just trying to copy exactly everything I had learned.
我觉得这种经历在学习技能时不可避免
And I think that that happens in every craft in life.
就是说 当你年轻的时候
You know, you're young,
你有一个老师
you have a master,
你会去模仿他 他做什么你就学着做
you want to emulate him, do what he does.
但到了一定的阶段 你必须得醒悟过来
But at some point in life you have to turn around
然后说 "我得找到我自己的路 我自己的语言"
and say, "I have to find my own way, my own language."
1995年
In 1995,
弗朗西斯受邀为
Francis received an invitation
国际美食学会烹饪菜肴
to cook for the International Academy of Gastronomy,
该组织是世界上最有声望的
which is the most prestigious
美食学组织
gastronomical organization in the world.
所以这件事真的是挺重大的
So this was a really big deal.
我那时40岁 快40了
I was 40. I was going to be 40
当国际美食学会主席
when the president of the
当时在欧洲
International Academy of Gastronomy in Europe
跟我说"你愿意
says to me, "Would you like
到德国来为我们烹饪吗?"
to come and cook for the Academy in Germany?"
而且他们会颁发一个奖项
And they were giving this prize,
烹调艺术大奖
Le Grand Prix de l'Art de la Cuisine.
我在法国的所有老师都得过这个奖
All my teachers in France had won this prize, too.
然后他问我 "你想做什么菜呢?"
So he says to me, "What would you like to cook?"
我说 "呃 我想通过我的菜
And I say, "Well, I would
向安第斯山脉致敬"
like to make an homage, a tribute to the Andes."
马铃薯是安第斯山脉的一种象征
Potatoes are a symbol of the Andes.
从饮食角度讲 马铃薯是南美洲献给世界
It's one of the most beautiful things, food-wise,
最美好的食材之一
that South America gave to the world.
我决定从南美带马铃薯去德国
I decided to take potatoes from South America to Germany.
但是发现带不过去
We find out it was impossible to take them.
所以我们决定把马铃薯走私过去
So we decided to smuggle the potatoes.
我们把半吨♥的马铃薯装在行李中偷偷带到了德国
We smuggled half a ton of potatoes in our bags into Germany.
他们把我们带到一个城♥堡♥里
We were taken to this castle.
有27位专业人士在场
It's 27 academists.
他们深谙美食 熟稔品酒
They know their food, they know their wine,
他们都很成熟 我不认识他们
they're quite grown-ups, all of them. I didn't know them.
而且这个比赛有好多的规则
And there were many rules about this contest.
酒店经理过来问我
The matre d'hotel comes to see me
"先生 您是否需要过来选一下银器?"
and says, "Sir, would you like to come and choose silverware?"
我说 "不 不 不 我不需要银器或者鲜花
And I said, "No, no, no, I don't want any silverware or flowers.
我会直接把300千克
I'm gonna put 300 kilos of dirty
脏兮兮的马铃薯放在亚麻布上 就在桌子正中"
potatoes on the linen, in the middle of the table."
然后他跟我说"啊 在这里你不能那么做"
So he says to me, "Ah, you can't do that here."
我说"是么 我就是要这么做
I said, "Well, yes, I will.
而且那些马铃薯我洗都不会洗 上面会带着原有的泥土"
And I'm not gonna wash them, they will have dirt as they came."
桌子看上去很美
The table looked beautiful.
试想一下 所有的马铃薯带着那种原始浓烈的红色
Imagine, all these potatoes were red, violet, of all the colors.
然后我们用马铃薯做了10个不同的菜
And then we cooked 10 different dishes with potatoes.
甚至甜点里面都有马铃薯
Even the desserts had sweet potatoes.
第二天早晨 所有的学者聚在一起开了一个会
And next morning, there was a meeting of all the academists,
会后他们出来说 "你选为...
and after the meeting they came out and said, "You have chosen...
你被选为本届大奖的获得者"
You have been chosen for this year prize of the Grand Prix."
我获得了
I had achieved
我那些在法国的老师们都得到过的奖项
the prize that all my teachers in France had achieved.
我追上了他们
I matched them.
但是 人生中获得大奖是件喜忧参半的事
But, you know, big prizes in life, they make you happy and sad
因为它会让你对自己产生怀疑
because they make you question yourself.
人们以为我会
They thought that I was
继续在这条光辉的路上走下去
going to continue this path of excellence,
我的烹饪技术会被修饰打磨得更加圆滑
more trimmed and manicured
顺着那时的方向 但我并没有
cooking as was happening then, and I didn't.
我反而转过身来选择了背道而驰的一条路
I just turned back on it and I went the other way.
我说 "就是这样了"
I said, "That was it."
我意识到我必须回归最初
I realized that I had to go back,
跪下来 一点点拾起所有那些
kneel down, and pick up all those tools, memories
童年时的工具 记忆 冒险 和经验
and adventures and experiences from my childhood,
然后运用那些再重塑我的烹饪生涯
and recreate my cooking life with all of that.
这个叫做古兰多
This is called curanto,
一种南巴塔哥尼亚地区当地的叫法
which is a native name
是在把食物放在一个地上的坑里面做熟
for cooking in a pit in southern Patagonia.
人类学家发现
There are some traces of
有一些像这样的坑的痕迹
pits like this that anthropologists found
已经有12000年悠久的历史
that are 12,000 years old.
那时候人们不用布 而是用叶子
Instead of using cloth, they used a leaf
叶子的大小和这个坑差不多 或者更大一些
which is the size of this pit, or bigger even.
就像这样 叫做纳尔卡
It's like this, which is called nalka.
然后他们把所有的食物用纳尔卡盖起来
So they covered all the food with nalka,
之后人们把所有东西都埋起来 继续去做日常的各种事
and then they would bury everything down and go on daily errands.
不会有烟或者任何的痕迹
And there was not a trace of smoke or anything,
所以是个隐藏的食物宝藏
so it was a hidden treasure of food.
到了晚上的时候
Then they would come back at
他们会回来把它打开 就可以吃到热乎美味的食物了
night to open it and have very hot, delicious food.
从这个坑里拿出的蔬菜的味道美妙至极
The taste you get from this pit in the vegetables is incredible
因为十分的湿润而且还有烟熏的味道
because they are extremely moist and smoky.
我喜欢用这样的坑做东西
I love cooking with pits like this.
所以我从德国
So I came back to South
回到南美 开了一家餐馆
America from Germany to open a restaurant.
黑暗餐厅... 黑暗餐厅是一家很小的餐馆
Los Negros... Los Negros was a tiny restaurant.
从那时起我开始用火
That's when I started doing fire.
我在那里建造了我的第一个木搭的烤箱
That's where I constructed my first wood oven
然后我开始摆弄火和铁之类的东西
and I started playing with fire and iron and so on.
我们拥有那处不动产 我也记不清了
We had it for, like, I don't know, maybe 20 years...
大概20年吧
the property,
这个餐馆开了差不多有15年
and the restaurant was open for, like, 15 years.
我一直以为我会在那里结婚
And I always thought I was gonna get married there.
那是我与小镇的一段情缘
It was a love affair with that tiny town,
当我初次到达那里的时候 连路都没有...
that when I arrived there, it had no road...
也没有水 没有电
it had no water, no electricity.
但是接下来
And, you know, we started
随着那些光鲜亮丽的食客的到来
getting all these very glamorous people.
它就失去了一点点的神秘感
It lost a bit of its mystery.
问题在于 弗朗西斯还是在那儿工作
What happens in my work is that Francis is still there working,
他的名字在那儿 他的团队也在那儿 但是灵魂却不在
his name is there, his team is there, but my soul is gone.
我渐渐意识到这些
And I realized that slowly
然后我回望过去 说 "天呐 我已经离开了那个地方
and then I looked back and I said, "God, I've left that place.
我应该前进了"
I better move on."
所以我关闭了黑暗餐厅
So I closed down Los Negros
然后就只是呆在山上
and I just remained up there in the hills.
真的非常非常伤感
It was very, very sad.
我现在还觉得没有完全放下它
I still think I didn't get over it yet,
我也再没有去过那里
and I don't go anymore.
甚至都不能去那个小镇了
I can't even go to the town anymore.
我是说 我还是会去 但是...对我来说非常艰难 嗯
I mean, I go, but it's, uh... it's very hard for me. Yes.
我不能因为自己的孩子
I can't keep a restaurant
爱着一个餐厅就继续经营它
because my children are in love with it,
我也不能就这样维持这个家 因为我要继续我的人生
or I can't keep this home, because I have to go on with my life.
我必须要继续生活 继续成长 继续做我要做的事
I have to go on living and growing and doing what I have to do.
而这样的生活作为孩子是很难适应的
Which is not a very easy life to be adapted to as kids.
我有点自私
I'm a bit selfish because,
因为我觉得他们牺牲了很多
you know, I think it takes a toll on them.
你知道吗?
You know?
嗯
Yeah.
我的生活一直徘徊在不确定的边缘
My life has been a path at the edge of uncertainty.
现今 我觉得我们...