主厨的餐桌（2015）

我想用一种人所未见的方式传达秘鲁情怀
I wanted to communicate Peru in a way that people never seen before.
但大家来餐厅后
But when people came to the restaurant,
大多数人都说"很好 相当不错
most of the people said, "It's great. It's fantastic.
你让我觉得身处伦敦 人在纽约"
You make me feel like I'm in London, I'm in New York."
我觉得有地方不对劲儿
I felt there's something wrong.
大家不该这么说
People shouldn't be saying that.
大家应该说 "你让我觉得自己是在秘鲁吃东西"
People has to say that, "You make me feel like I'm eating in Peru."
我意识到自己最大的障碍... 就是我自己
I realized that my biggest difficulty was... was me.
我不知道自己要做什么菜式
I was confused about what type of food I was going to serve.
我深受海外生活的影响十年
I was very influenced by ten years of being abroad.
我是在用秘鲁的手法做欧洲菜肴
I was doing European cuisine with this Peruvian touch.
-有东西不见了... -缺了特色
- There was something missing... - this lack of identity.
我意识到 我得做出改变
I realized that, yeah, I had to do a few changes.
我决定花一年时间周游秘鲁 做些研究
I decided to travel one year to do some research about Peru.
我在寻找灵感
I was looking for inspiration.
我去到亚马孙流域和安第斯山脉 那里风景优美
When I went to the Amazonia and the Andes, there were all these beautiful landscapes.
我开始感觉到某种联♥系♥
I started to feel some connection.
我意识到秘鲁远不止利马
I realized that Peru is so much more than Lima.
之后我跟一个安第斯家庭共度了一周
Then I spent a week with a family in the Andes.
在莫里附近
It was near Moray.
初到那里 我就觉得 "这地方真好"
The first time I went there, I was like, "This place is amazing."
你到莫里的时候 会看见这些规整的圆形梯田
When you go to the Moray, you see these perfectly circular terraces.
几百年前
Hundreds of years ago,
莫里被用作试验田
Moray was being used as an experimental farm.
印加人测试不同作物
The Incas were testing different crops
来了解为何同种作物在相邻的梯田上会有不同的生长状况
to see how a plant grows different at one terrace to the next.
而这里得天独厚
And it's the only place like this.
看过梯田 我着迷其中
After seeing these terraces, I was so obsessed.
我们便开始跟百姓聊天
And then we started to talk to people,
我学到了一些安第斯的人生哲学
and I learned some Andean philosophy of life.
大多数人横向看世界...
While most people see the world in a horizontal way...
安第斯人却有不同的视角
people in the Andes have another way to see life.
他们站在不同的层次和高度看世界
They actually see the world in different levels and altitudes.
他们纵向看世界 而不是扁平地横向观察
They see the world in a vertical way, not in a flat, horizontal way.
这正是我需要的
That was it for me.
真正改变了我对秘鲁的思考方式
It really changed the way I was thinking about Peru.
所以我回到中♥央♥餐厅
So, I returned to Central.
告诉皮娅... "我有个主意
And I told Pia... "I have this idea.
我们让菜单以海拔为理念
We're going to conceptualize the menu on altitudes,
基于不同层次和生态系统
on different levels and different ecosystems.
要把不同菜肴跟不同海拔对应起来
We have to focus the different dishes on every single altitude.
-这样就不仅是看风景 -而达到了另一个高度
- It's just not to see the landscape. - It goes to another level.
我希望大家感受到秘鲁的方方面面"
I want people to feel all these different parts of Peru."
有了这个创意 我把玛莱娜带到中♥央♥餐厅
Motivated by this concept, I brought Malena to Central
给我提供技术支持
to give me all the scientific support.
为了完成第一份菜单 我必须大改
So to achieve our first menu of altitudes, I had to change a lot.
我知道自己会失去部分顾客
I knew that I was going to lose some guests,
也确实失去了不少
and I actually lost lots of them.
但我执着于实现这个想法
But I was so obsessed about achieving this idea,
我必须追随内心
I had to follow my heart.
2012年 他们依照海拔设计了一份菜单
In 2012, they designed a menu based on altitude.
看到这份菜单 上面列举了20道
You see this menu, and you see it list these 20 plates,
按照海拔列出的菜肴
listed out by altitude.
之前从未有人这样陈置过秘鲁
No one had ever laid out Peru in quite this way ever before.
如此看这个国家 影响巨大
Seeing this country in that way had a big impact.
忽然之间 万众瞩目
Suddenly, everyone starts to pay attention.
-2013年 中♥央♥餐厅进入50佳名录 -那是件大事
- In 2013, Central enters the 50 Best list. - That's a big deal.
世界各地的人都来到中♥央♥餐厅
People from around the world started to come to Central
通过这份菜单体验秘鲁
to experience Peru through his menu.
而在2015年 他升至第四位
And then in 2015, he went to number four.
甚至超越了加斯顿 这是所有人始料未及的
He jumped ahead of Gastón even. And no one was really expecting that.
中♥央♥餐厅不只是一个餐厅了
Central became more than just a restaurant.
它成为了秘鲁的象征
It's a symbol of Peru.
比尔希略的菜单让你感受
Virgilio's menu makes you feel.
让你思考
It makes you think.
让你探索
It makes you discover
你曾以为再无可发掘之处
in areas that you thought you already discovered everything.
你感觉到 有时作为一个厨师 "为什么我之前没想到"
You feel that, sometimes as a chef, "Why I didn't think of this before?"
诸如此类 所以... 这很难得
Things like that, you know. So it's... it's great.
他坐起来了
He's sitting up!
-小克里斯托巴尔 -小克里斯托巴尔
- Little Cristobal! - Little Cristobal!
想象克里斯托巴尔的未来很有意思
It's funny to think about the future of Cristobal.
其实 想想克里斯托巴尔...
Actually, it's fun to think about...
成为厨师也是乐事
Cristobal being a chef.
但他才五个月大
But he's, like, five months old,
所以我着眼于当下的事
so I'm just trying to focus on what's happening now.
比尔希略有很多计划
Virgilio has a lot of plans in the horizon.
在家里 我觉得他想更顾家一点
In his family, I think he wants to be more available,
大概就是 做个好先生 好爸爸
like, be more a family guy.
同时
And at the same time,
他又非常渴望钻研烹饪
he's still very curious to dig deeper into cooking.
他想四处游历
He wants to keep moving around,
寻找秘鲁每一个未被发掘的食材
searching for the undiscovered ingredients in every part of Peru.
我想出海拔菜单以后...
Since I came up with the idea of the altitudes menu...
我们已经发掘出了这些新东西
we've been discovering these new things.
但四年后...
And after four years...
我意识到...
I realized that...
我们一无所知
we know nothing.
是啊 我们一无所知 的确如此
Yeah, we know a little. That's it.
我还有很多东西要学习
And I'm still learning a lot.
-万里长征第一步 -这只是开始
- This is a work in progress. - This is just the beginning.