主厨的餐桌（2015）

人...
the people...
用我的双手与头脑工作...
working with my hands, my mind...
厨房♥里发生的一切都无比新奇
Whatever was happening there, it was really something new.
我意识到这就是我的栖息之所 这些人是我的亲人
I realized that this is my habitat. This is my people.
我就想待在这儿
This is the place where I really want to be.
开始我的目的是旅行
At the beginning, my goal was to travel.
在厨房♥工作只是个借口
An excuse was working in kitchens.
但它却从借口变成了我的动力
From an excuse, it turned to be my passion.
看 安德烈斯 这个不好 知道吗
Look, Andrés. This one is no good. See?
这两个黏在一起了 不能用
These two are attached, so they're not useful for us.
直接扔回去吧
You can throw them back.
不过 这个很棒
But look, this one is perfect.
晶莹透绿 形状浑♥圆♥
It's green, crystalline and perfectly round.
玛莱娜 你找到多少了
Malena, how many do you have?
找到一些
A few.
在安第斯山脉
Up on the mountain, in the Andes,
这些绿色的日光小球漂浮在湖面上
these little balls of green sunlight float on the surface of these lakes.
它们是球状的绿色海藻
Little spheres of green algae.
很像鱼子酱 但其实是细菌
It's almost like a caviar, but it's bacteria.
在高级餐厅 没人用它做菜
No one uses that in a fine dining restaurant.
但比尔希略就用
But Virgilio does.
-这就是欧节树吗 -是的 它的树脂能入药
- Is this the hoje tree? - Yes, its resin is medicinal.
-能吃吗 -会毒死人的
- Can you eat it? - It will take you to your grave.
比尔希略寻找的东西 比如一块有树脂的树皮
Virgilio finds these things, like a tree bark with a resin in it.
这些都算不上食材
It's not even an ingredient.
当地村民可能会用它治头痛
One village might use that thing for headaches,
或清理肾脏
or to clear the kidneys.
它有不同的药用
Different medicinal uses.
原住民看到他收集这些东西做菜时
When indigenous communities see that he's collecting these things to cook with,
都很不理解
they don't understand it.
-根被吃光了吗 -不是
- Is the root consumed? - No.
-不是 是被制成烟草或建房♥子了 -对
- No. It's used for a tambo, a house. - Yeah.
-你生活睡觉的地方 -好吧
- Where you live and sleep. - Okay.
比尔希略做菜不总是为了好味道
Virgilio's cuisine is not always about cooking food that is tasty.
有时他的菜会让人不舒服
Sometimes there are dishes that are uncomfortable.
但比尔希略觉得
But Virgilio feels it's important
通过品尝这些食材来感受秘鲁的各异地区
that you have a taste of all of these ingredients
这一点很重要
to understand these different regions of Peru.
我们在这找到很多带刺的
Over here. We found some of those really thorny ones.
我们要知道如何分辨这些植物 因为在安卡什省也见过相似的
We'll have to figure out how to identify these because we also saw them in Ancash.
我要把这些带下山
I'll take these down.
安德烈斯 你找到什么了
Andrés, what have you found?
我在找白色的...
Look for some of the white ones...
因为我们之前没用过
because we haven't used those before.
在中♥央♥餐厅 我们定菜单的方式很独特
At Central, we have a truly unique approach to our menu.
一般会用到180种食材 其中一半都是未知的
We use 180 ingredients, and probably 50% of them are unknown.
所以说 为了不囿于成规 达到新境界
So, to achieve something that is really changing the rules,
你需要一个团队
you need a team.
他们叫它"智利卡"
They call this one "chilca,"
奇怪 "智利卡"也是一种植物的名字
which is odd, because chilca is also the name
和这个完全不一样
used for other plants which are totally different.
所以区分它们很困难
So it's going to be difficult to identify it.
克丘亚语没有书写系统 所以你得靠感觉去写[南美印第安部落语言]
Quechua is not written, so you have to sense how to write it.
写下听到的发音吗
The way we hear it?
是的 至少这样我们能记下它
Exactly, which at least helps us to register it.
玛莱娜有理科背景
Malena has a science background.
她用整套科学方法来检验全秘鲁的食材
She brings this entire scientific method to all the ingredients of Peru
其他的秘鲁餐厅没有这些
that no kitchen elsewhere in Peru really has.
我们致力于从秘鲁各地寻找食材
We are focused on bringing stuff from different parts of Peru
并对它们作出物种上的分类
and doing identification of species.
我们是中♥央♥餐厅的研究部门
We are the research arm of Central.
这个就叫"茴芹"吗
This is the one they call "anise"?
对 其实它们生长于不同地区
Yes. And it actually grows in different regions.
-不同海拔吗 -是的
- Different altitudes? - Yes.
我这儿有些能作对比的
I actually have some here to compare.
看得出来它们在不同海拔有很大区别
You can see that it's super different at different altitudes.
这是同种植物吗
That's the same plant?
对 这是同一种 但来自不同地区
Yes, it's the same species, but from a different place.
这就像第一层把关
This would be, like, the first filter.
我们找到有可能烹饪的食材
So the stuff that we see have potential,
然后在中♥央♥餐厅的厨房♥里做尝试
we then bring to experiment in the kitchen of Central.
这个应该直接送到中♥央♥餐厅 我们就能马上烹制了
This should go straight to Central so we can cook it right away.
剩下的继续留在这研究
The rest, keep here to study.
好了 皮娅 我们可以在这做 这是秘鲁龙血[龙血树 巴豆树的红色树脂]
Okay, Pia, we can do it here. This is sangre de grado.
天然染料 是红色的
Natural dye, yeah? It's red.
龙血取自它的树皮
It comes from this tree bark.
颜色无与伦比 对吧
It has an incredible color, right?
原材料送到中♥央♥餐厅后 我们会尝试很多烹饪方法
Once a product arrives to Central, we try a lot of techniques.
所有团队都能参与进来
All the team can participate in this.
我们屡试屡验 比尔希略也一再尝试... 终于定下来...
We try, try, try. Virgilio tries... and finally, we decide...
能做的菜品 并将其添到菜单上
what we can do and to put in the menu.
我再说一遍 两份鸡肉 分成两堆
I'll say it again. Two chickens, two mountains,
一份小章鱼 一份南瓜甜点
a small octopus, a pumpkin dish.
-七号♥桌怎么样了 -还没准备好
- How is table seven? - It's not ready yet.
给我四份章鱼
Give me four octopuses.
-我听不到 -收到
- I can't hear you. - Got it!
谢谢
Thank you.
-皮娅是比尔希略的妻子 -她是厨房♥管事
- Pia is Virgilio's wife. - She's in control of the kitchen.
负责管理组织
And she's the structured one.
把一切都付诸行动
She's the one that puts everything into action.
-皮娅 -我在这 怎么了
- Pia? - I'm here. What?
-少了什么 -再浓点
- What's missing? - Strength.
-中♥央♥餐厅不只有比尔希略 -这是大家协同努力的成果
- Central isn't just Virgilio. - It's very much a collaborative effort.
他需要周围人给他的菜品做补充
He needs people around him to complement what's he doing.
他有玛莱娜和皮娅系统管理餐厅事宜
He has Malena and Pia to kind of bring structure into the restaurant
所以他能当一个不停探索的梦想家
so he can be a dreamer and explore.
皮娅和我在厨房♥烹饪
Pia is in the kitchen with me.
玛莱娜和我在亚马孙或安第斯山做研究
Malena's working with me in the Amazonia or the Andes.
-作为一家人 我们合作得很好 -她们能懂我
- As a family, we work very well. - They understand me.
没有皮娅和玛莱娜就不会有中♥央♥餐厅
And without Malena, without Pia, I think there's no Central.
我不知道我喜不喜欢
I don't know if I like it.
我喜欢它是因为颜色好看 但味道有所欠缺
I like it because of the colors, but the flavor not so much.
我早些年在国外工作时
When I was working abroad,
有人告诉我 如果想当主厨
in those days, I was told that if you wanted to be a chef,
就必须在知名餐厅做经典菜肴
you had to work in well-known restaurants doing classic cuisines,
我辗转法国 意大利和日本
from French to Italian to Japanese.
工作了六年
So, for six years, that's what I did.
然后有天我回到利马看望我的家人
Then one day, I went back to visit family in Lima.
我开始注意到秘鲁集市上的食材
I start to notice all these beautiful Peruvian ingredients
琳琅满目 丰富多彩
everywhere in the markets.
藜麦 秘鲁土豆
Quinoas, Peruvian potatoes,
-玛咖根[类似小圆萝卜] 印加豆... -所有这些食材...
- maca roots, pacays... - all these ingredients...
我就在想"现在我得回去干活
And I was thinking, "Now, I have to go back to my work
把同样的土豆和水果削皮
and peel the same potatoes, peel the same fruits.
反反复复干一样的活"
Do the same stuff all over and over."
我工作的厨房♥
In the kitchen where I was working,
不可能用这些"诡异"的食材
there was no way to use these "weird" ingredients.
但我真的很想用它们烹饪
And I really wanted to work with them.
我意识到 作为一个外国人 我花了六年
I realized that I spent six years as a foreigner
做不属于自己的菜
doing cuisines that did not belong to me,
对秘鲁菜却一无所知
and I had no idea about Peruvian cuisine.
对我来说 这是... 大梦方醒
For me, it was a call for... for a wakeup.
-我能试试那个吗 -当然 进来吧
- Can I try that? - Of course. Come in.
-但你得唱歌♥ -交出你的武器
- But you have to sing. - Hand over your weapon.
去那边
Over there.
我来做个示范
Here, I'm going to do it.
看好了
Watch me.
像这样
Like this.
就这样 非常好
Like that. Very good!
你学会了
You learned.