主厨的餐桌（2015）

现在你也是个农民了
Now you're a country man!
真漂亮
That's beautiful.
-真正的皮斯卡龙拓 -皮斯卡龙拓
- Authentic piscoronto. - Piscoronto?
这个叫"库烈"
And this one's "culie."
-库烈吗 -库烈
- Culie? - Culie.
库烈
Culie.
好的 库烈 写下来
Okay. Culie. Write it down.
秘鲁的领土非常多样化
Peruvian territory is very diverse,
但若不是因为人 因为我们的文化...
but we wouldn't be this biodiverse if it wasn't for... for people,
就不会有这种生物多样性
if it wasn't for our cultures.
秘鲁每个地方都有居民区
There are communities in every part of Peru
他们掌握着我们所不了解的各种知识
which have all this knowledge that we don't know about.
我们为研究秘鲁食材踏上旅途时
So, when we started making these trips for research on Peruvian ingredients,
便想更深入地探索当地 与这些人交流
we wanted to dig deeper and connect with these people.
在探索中，我们发现每个食材背后都有许多故事
In our search, we found that there was a lot of stories behind every product.
比方说安第斯人告诉我们
Andean people, for instance, told us
在安第斯山脉不同地区的秘鲁土豆
there are more than 1,000 varieties of potatoes
有一千多种
in different parts of the Andes.
在利马 我们... 只知道四五种土豆
In Lima, we... we barely know four or five of them.
所以了解这些居民区是很充实的经历
And so, getting to know communities was an enriching experience.
我们喜欢这样
We love these.
我们用你妻子说的那种方法烹制
We use them with a technique your wife showed us.
做的肯定不如你妻子的好... 但我们会尝试 对吧
Ours are not as good as your wife's... but we try, right?
我们真正获得的
The real connection that we are achieving
是与人的联♥系♥ 就是种植这些作物的人
is the relationship with people that are growing these products.
这些体验也是我们想亲身经历的
And those are the experiences we want to get for ourselves.
一旦我们能理解...
And then, once we understand them...
我们就希望能向客人们展示这些食材背后
we want to show our guests what's behind these ingredients,
以及安第斯山和亚马孙原住民间的故事
and to show what's happening with these Andean and Amazonian communities.
这便是呈现食材最好的方式
That's the best way to share ingredients,
也是传播文化最好的方法
and that's the best way to share our culture.
知道这种大仙人掌吗
You know this big cactus?
这里有水果和一些小红籽
It has these, red fruits with very red seeds.
-是的 -这些籽粒可以染布
- Yes. - So these seeds actually dye clothes.
对
Yes.
你们去安第斯山 会看到人们用很传统的方式染布...
You go to the Andes, you see, like, people dying their clothes, like...
就是用这些小红籽 一点点染上去
very traditional way, like, with red, these red seeds.
将红籽浇在鱼的表面...
So we cover the fish with the red seeds...
-所以这是腌渍的吗 -是的
- So this is a marinade? - It's a marinade, yeah.
一般我们有什么问题 服务员不清楚
So we asked a question and the waiter did not know.
他就会说 "我也不知道 要问下主厨"
He's like, "I don't know. We have to send the chef."
因为我会不断更新菜单
You know, I keep changing the menu.
一天之内就可能全换掉
I change the whole thing in one day.
所以我跟他们说 只要客人有不懂的地方
So I keep telling them that whenever they don't know something,
来找我就好
they have to call me, yeah?
-非常感谢 -谢谢你们
- Thank you very much. - Thank you so much.
-做得很精致 -这是我的荣幸 谢谢
- It was beautiful. - It was a pleasure. Thank you.
怎么样 朋友 吃得都好吗
How are you, friends? Everything good?
我在伦敦一家意大利餐厅工作时
I was cooking in London in an Italian restaurant
听说了加斯顿·艾科留
when I started to hear about Gastón Acurio.
加斯顿·艾科留是全球革命性人物
Gastón Acurio is a huge revolutionary in a global way.
他是秘鲁最好的厨师
He was the best Peruvian chef.
慢慢成为激励我前进的一大动力
He started to become a huge inspiration to me.
我知道自己想向他学习...
I knew that I wanted to learn from him...
因此请求他能给我一份工作
so I asked Gastón Acurio to give me a job.
他给了一份工作 我立刻就开始了
He gave me a position, and I started right away.
我的餐厅在哥伦比亚波哥大 比尔希略在那工作时
When Virgilio was working at my restaurant in Bogota, in Colombia,
还很年轻 不过他做菜一直很棒
he was very young, but he did an amazing job.
那时候我就预见 他会成为烹饪界的领军人物
And I saw that he was going to become a leader.
两年后
After two years,
我们接到去马德里开餐厅的提议 大家都很激动
we had this amazing proposal to do a restaurant in Madrid.
我说 "比尔希略 现在是你去马德里大显身手的时候
So I said, "Virgilio, it's your time to go to Madrid.
这是你成为主厨的好机会
It's your time to become a chef.
你愿意尝试吗" 他说 "当然"
Do you want to do it?" He said, "Yes, of course."
当时我很开心 因为能做秘鲁菜
I was very happy. I was doing Peruvian cuisine.
我很感激能够在他的厨房♥工作
I felt gratitude to be working in his kitchens.
加斯顿·艾科留带我走进了秘鲁世界
Gastón Acurio brought me to this Peruvian world.
他教会我许多经典的秘鲁菜肴
And he taught me all about very classic Peruvian cuisine.
中间是... 长山绒吗
The heart... Peluche?
在与加斯顿·艾科留共事四年后
After four years of working with Gastón Acurio,
我便希望能做出新菜品 让它们更有创意
I wanted to cook something new, something very creative.
作为马德里的主厨 他很成功
As a chef in Madrid, he was being very successful.
很快就出名了
He became very popular immediately.
大家开始说 说他比我更有创意
People start telling me that he was much more creative than me.
于是我去马德里看我的餐厅
So, I went to Madrid to see my restaurant.
我尝了鸭肉饭 秘鲁的传统美食
I tasted arroz con pato, which is a traditional Peruvian dish.
味道完全变了
It was completely changed.
我让他把碟子撤走
I told him to pull the dish back.
说还差点什么什么的
You need to put more this, and that, and that.
然后就走了
And I left.
我很期待能自创一个有全新秘鲁风格的菜肴
I was dreaming about creating a new Peruvian cuisine.
但又不能在他的餐厅实现
And I couldn't do this in his restaurants.
我知道人总得按规矩行事
I felt there's a moment that you need to play the game.
也有时候 你可以按照自己的规则来
And there's a moment to play your game.
显然 这就是比尔希略主宰自己命运的时刻
And clearly, it was time for Virgilio to play his game.
十年来 我在不同的主厨手下工作
After ten years of working for different chefs,
却只能按照他们的想法做菜 我想百分百呈现自己想要的
just cooking their minds, I needed to do 100% what I really wanted to offer,
做出我的希望和情感
100% of my hopes, my feelings.
我知道我想开一家属于自己的餐厅
I knew that I wanted to have my own restaurant
以自己的方式来做秘鲁菜
to do Peruvian cuisine in my own way.
我必须在家乡实现自己的梦想
I had to grow in my own country, with my own dreams.
找个瘦点的
A thin one...
这样放...
Like this...
再这样
Like this.
不是 放下来
No, lay it down.
不对 不是那样放的
No. It's not done that way.
应该这么放
It's done this way.
这个拿错了
This one is wrong.
抱歉 我妹妹一直在搞破坏
Sorry, my sister keeps screwing it up!
几年前 我在安第斯山脉
I experienced the making of a huatia in the Andes
四千米的山峰上
a few years ago...
体验了一番做土灶
at 4,000 meters, on top of the mountains.
土灶对于安第斯原住民有特殊的精神意义
It has this spiritual meaning for the people in the Andes.
他们将土奉为上帝
They adored the soil as a god.
这种举动是向大地母亲
This practice is a way to say thanks
表达他们对季节丰收的感谢
to the Mother Earth for the harvest for the season.
土灶是用热岩石 粘土
Huatia is an oven that you make with hot rocks
和土壤做出的灶台
and a bit of clay, a bit of soil.
一旦土灶热起来 就要敲破整个灶台...
Once you have this oven very hot, you break the whole oven...
最后在地上或地下烤土豆
and you end up just cooking the potatoes on the ground, or even underground.
土灶对我们来说是一种技术 对我们在中♥央♥餐厅
Huatia, for us, as a technique, is very important to incorporate
研究新菜品的技术很有帮助
in our techniques that we are doing at Central.
这个高度 无论找到什么
It has all this sense of cooking
都能用来做菜
with whatever you're finding in these altitudes.
我们一直在考虑 "如何将它运用到中♥央♥餐厅"
And it was all the time in our minds, "How can we replicate this at Central?
"如何操作 怎样可行"
How can we do it? How can we do it?"
餐厅里是不能挖洞的
We are not allowed to make a hole in the middle of the restaurant.
不过我们可以搭一个简易的小灶台
But we can make our own little oven.
把安第斯山的马铃薯块茎 草本植物和土壤带回
We bring potatoes and tubers and the herbs, the soil,
包括一些岩石
even some rocks from the Andes.
他不能在收获时节带你上山
He can't bring you up to the mountain during the harvest,
但他把山间美味带回了餐厅
but he brings the mountain back to the restaurant.
土灶让土豆变得风味独特
The huatia gives this unique flavor to the potato.
这是大地的本味
It's the essence of the land.
让大地的几分芳香氤氲入怀...
You get a little bit of the earth inside of you...
让用餐者与大地紧紧相连
giving the diner that connection back to the land.
那是何其美妙的事
It's something very beautiful.
现在可以吃了
Now we can eat.
到利马开中♥央♥餐厅的时候
When I came to Lima to open Central,
我想引领秘鲁烹饪的方向
I wanted to create the next step for Peruvian cuisine.