主厨的餐桌（2015）

我被打得耳朵眼睛都在流血
I was bleeding out of my ears, from my eyes.
那时我才九岁 我父亲打我
I was nine years old. My father was beating me.
我很孤独
I was alone.
那时我都是用零花钱...
And at that time, I used my pocket money...
去超♥市♥给自己买♥♥吃的
to go in the supermarket and to buy myself food.
那对我来说是一种对现实生活的短暂逃避
It was an escape from my ordinary world
在那里 只有...
to a place where I only had...
食物的味道 香味和口感与我为伴
the taste, the smell, the textures of food.
那是我自己的一方天地 在那里我不会受到伤害
It was like my own universe. The place where nothing can hurt me.
快点 三份梭鲈 八号♥桌
Her, drei Zander. Abmarsch. Auf die acht!
直接拿到八号♥桌 赶快
Einfach nehmen und auf die acht. Kommen Sie!
蒂姆的餐厅被认为
It is considered a very tough school
是个严格的学校
to go through Tim's restaurant.
他对自家厨师说话毫不留情
The way he talks to his chefs can be rough.
两份鱼子酱好了
Zwei Kaviar stehen
我不管那些 把鱼先端过去
Ist mir scheißegal. Stell jetzt den Fisch ab.
但他又是个超凡的领导者
But he is an incredible leader,
领导者需要语言清晰
and it needs clear language to lead.
我们柏林有个说法是"柏林大嘴"
In Berlin, we have the term Berliner Schnauze...
意思是一个人直言直行 毫不避讳
that means you openly say what you think and you do what you think you have to do.
柏林人不太考虑那些细枝末节的虚礼
Berliners just don't think about a certain politeness.
只看重此时此刻的坦诚交流
They think about the honest communication in that very moment.
盐放太少了
Da fehlt...also...fehlt mächtig Salz.
在蒂姆的厨房♥ 如果一个年轻厨师
If he has a chef, a young chef,
实力不够 却自视甚高...
who thinks he is wonderful, but he isn't...
那很快他就会意识到 因为蒂姆会直说
well, he certainly immediately knows that. Tim tells him.
缺点味道
Das schmeckt so 'nbisschen flau.
但与此同时 他又带出了很多了不起的厨师
But at the same time, he has created incredible chefs.
柏林最好的大厨很多来自他的厨房♥
Some of the best chefs in Berlin.
很棒
Sehr schön!
-让它滚一会儿 -好
- Lass es jetzt einmal kurz aufkochen. - Ja.
大家能信任我的话对我来说很重要
It is really important to me that people can trust my word.
我每雇一个厨师 一定会跟他握手
If I hire a chef, it is mandatory that I give him a handshake.
这是我们的缔约仪式
That is our contract.
从此我会对你负责
And after that, I will take care about you.
无论发生什么
Whatever happens.
有时我会很刻薄...
Sometimes I can be really mean...
但我永远不会欺骗和背叛他们
but I'd never cheat them, never betray them.
我这人很简单直接
I'm very straightforward.
非常好
Sehr sehr schön.
不过这两道菜还是得我把把关 还不能独♥立♥完成
Die beiden brauchen trotzdem noch ein bisschen guidance, also müssen einfach begleitet werden.
谢谢
Danke.
在我从母亲那搬去同父亲生活之前
Before I moved from my mother to my father,
我脾气很好 很讨人喜欢
I was really nice, I was charming.
那时我不偷抢 不会伤害人 我...
I didn't steal at that time, I didn't hurt anyone else, I...
我根本不会做坏事
It was nothing bad, what I did.
但在被虐待数年之后...
But after these years of being abused...
有些事变了
something changed.
你如果暴♥力♥虐待孩子 你踢他 打他
If you give violence to a child, if you hit them, if you beat them,
后果是难以想象的
you cannot imagine what that makes.
像个核弹一样
It is like a nuclear bomb.
我心怀怨愤 而且不断膨胀 膨胀 再膨胀
I had so much hate, and it was growing, and growing and growing.
甚至自己都无法控制
I was not able to handle it.
于是我开始变得暴♥力♥
That was when I became violent.
就是那时 我加入了名叫36男孩的街头帮派
At that time, I became part of the street gang called the 36 Boys.
一群人到处找架打
It was a bunch of guys searching for fights
以此决定谁最厉害 谁能当帮派老大
to see who is tougher, who's leading the pack,
谁又能当城区老大
who's leading the city.
我们跟其他帮派打 打普通人
We was fighting with other gangs, was beating people.
抢劫
It was doing robberies.
我那时热衷于暴♥力♥
I was seeking for violence.
热衷于打倒一个人 毁掉一个人的快♥感♥
I was seeking for the moment where I can bring someone down, can break him,
自以为掌握了我的人生
and feel like I had control of my life.
如果我用拳头没能征服一个人
If I hit someone with a fist and it's not working,
我就会找来椅子 水壶 任何东西
I would take the chair, take the bottle, whatever it takes.
来打倒他
Bring him down!
我当时真的是个很坏 很刻薄的男孩
I was really a fucking evil, mean boy.
所以 我从受害者
So, from the victim...
转变成了罪犯
I transformed to the one who was the criminal...
侵略者
was the aggressor.
很多德国人并不热衷于食物
Many Germans have a difficult relationship toward food.
他们不太关注食物本身
Which means they do not focus on the food itself.
在德国 吃饭只是为了填饱肚子
In Germany, everything that goes beyond getting nourished...
而超出了这一层面的 比如好的食材 口味
good ingredients, flavors...
通常不被重视
they are often regarded as unnecessary.
所以 到了高档餐厅
So, when it comes to fine dining restaurants,
比起食物本身
people want the experience.
人们往往更注重就餐的过程
They focus less on what's on the plate.
他们只是想享受
They want to experience something really special.
一流美食餐厅的特别服务
The classic fine dining experience.
他们想跟他们的朋友炫耀
They want to explain to their friends afterwards
餐厅提供吃了20多种不同的面包
that they have been offered, 20 different varieties of... of bread,
不同种类的酒水 服务面面俱到
different bottles of water, that the service fulfilled every wish.
蒂姆是最开始尝试摒弃那些花招的主厨之一
Tim is one of the first chefs who stripped off all those things.
蒂姆·劳尔餐厅是一家美食餐厅
Restaurant Tim Raue is a fine dining restaurant.
但是你得清楚
But you have to put it into perspective.
它是一家柏林高档餐厅 完完全全的柏林风格
It is fine dining in Berlin, in a Berlin style.
他们允许狗进入餐厅 所有侍应都穿着球鞋和牛仔裤
They have the dog underneath the table, and the servers wears jeans and sneakers.
氛围与传统高档餐厅完全不同 这里不再是一座圣坛
It is a different atmosphere. It's not a temple anymore.
蒂姆开创了他的帝国
Tim created his own universe...
因为他从来不在乎所谓的规矩
because he never cared about rules.
-穆奇 咱们那会儿的土耳其烤肉可不长这样 -可不是吗
-Weißt du noch Muci, wenn wir Döner gegessen haben, sahen die nicht so aus, Alter? -Nee.
大家都长进了
Naja, okay. Wir haben uns ja auch weiter entwickelt.
-说是这么说 不过... -...土耳其烤肉也改良了
-Ja, aber... -...der Döner auch.
确实 我就问问 有什么特殊配方吗
Absolut. Und jetzt, nur mal so, Spezialzutat?
是不是放土耳其绿泡椒了
Grüne türkische Pepperoni?
-只用最好的 这就是我们的原则 -真的假的
-Du weißt, alles das Beste. Ist so. -Und das machst du wirklich?
-当然真的 就得这样 -不是这个意思 我是说刚刚我跟他们...
-Klar. Ist wirklich so. -Nein, wir haben eben schon gesagt...
帮会里的有些人
Some of the other guys in the gang
成了职业罪犯...
started to become professional criminals...
他们持枪抢劫 贩卖♥♥毒品
doing armed robberies, selling drugs.
但有的人则有幸意识到
But some of us was smart enough to realize
我们不可能一直靠这个再活十年 二十年的
that's impossible to do that for the next ten, fifteen years.
我当时很清醒 我需要有一技之长 我需要去做点什么 我需要工作
I was sure then, I have to learn a job. I have to do something. I have to work.
好嘞 下一位
Okay. Next!
在德国 10年级毕业以后
In Germany, after the tenth grade,
大家都会去一个咨♥询♥中心 到那里会有人问你问题
you go to a center where they ask you questions,
最后他们会提供三个合适的你的工作
and at the end, they offer you three jobs you can do.
给我的是园丁 油漆匠 和厨师
And for me it was gardener, painter, or chef.
我连电视机都不会开
Ich kann noch nicht mal 'nen Fernseher anmachen.
我那时并不清楚这些工作是干嘛的 但是我是个吃货
And I had no idea what that means. But I loved to eat.
于是我说 好吧 那就试试看吧
And I said, "Okay, yeah. Let's go for trial days."
在我学徒生涯早期
In the earlier days of my apprentice time,
有一次师♥傅♥站在我们面前 对我们说
the teacher was standing in front of us, and she said,
"今天我希望你们开♥发♥出属于自己的菜肴"
"Today I want you to create your own dish."
我那时想 "行啊... 我喜欢什么来着"
And I was like, "Okay... What are the things I like?"
我撕下一页纸
I teared a sheet of paper.
我喜欢无花果 于是我就写下"无花果"
I love figs, so I was writing down "figs."
有一种意大利产的醋 叫巴萨米克醋
There was vinegar from Italy, called aceto balsamico.
口味独特 是顶级食材 我也写了下来
That was something very special and luxury, so I write it down.
我们的糕点师教过我怎么用焦糖裹核桃
We had a pastry chef who showed me how to caramelize walnuts,
我一下就爱上了
which I loved from that moment on.
之后的一周
And the next week in the school,
老师准备了我们写下的所有食材
the teacher brought to all of us the ingredients we was writing down,
这样大家都可以着手开♥发♥自己的菜谱
so everyone was able to create his dish.
我是第一个准备完毕的
I was the first who was ready.
那道菜的卖♥♥相并不好 可是等所有人聚过来试吃
It looked awful, but then everyone comes around to taste it.
老师说 "哇哦"
And the teacher was like, "wow"
“熟透的无花果 其果香配以核桃的酥脆
He said, "The fruitiness of the ripe figs, the crispiness of the walnuts..."
"实在太棒了"
He said, "It's amazing."