主厨的餐桌（2015）

and having that bread, I knew that it could be done.
所以我开始做自己的面包 法式长棍面包
So I set out to make my first loaf, which was going to be a baguette.
第一步就是自己做一个发面器
The first step was to grow my own starter.
它让面包膨胀 发酵
The starter allows the bread to rise and ferment.
我用了6个五加仑的塑料桶来做这个
I had half a dozen five-gallon plastic buckets going.
然后我开始测试自己的面包配方
Then I started testing my bread recipes.
加点这个 加点那个
With a little bit of this, and a little bit of that.
我做的第一条面包
My first loaves of bread
又重 又紧实 颜色还很黑
were all so heavy, and so dense, and the color was so off.
这即激动人心 又十分扫兴
It was exciting and it was deflating.
我不知道接下来该怎么办
I didn't know where to go.
就比如"我是该少加点水 多加点发酵粉
You know, it's like, "Okay, well, should I add less water, more starter,
还是少加点盐"
hold back on the salt?"
我的孩子住在餐馆楼上
My kids lived upstairs from the restaurant,
所以我可以跑下楼 往烤箱里塞个面包棒
and so I could run downstairs, stick a load of bread in the oven,
再跑上楼 做完该做的事
run upstairs, finish the story.
这给了我充分的工作时间
It allowed me the time I needed to work.
我曾在午夜起床 整夜烘培...
I used to get up at midnight, bake all night...
然后在早上8点回家
come back home at 8:00.
这并不轻松
It wasn't easy.
在那儿过了些苦日子
There were some rough hours in there.
但最后 我意识到这并不是我们能掌控的
But finally, I realized that it's not something that you can control,
但是你能一定程度上慢慢调配出你想要的
but you can kind of guide it in the direction that you want.
所以我没有停止修改配方 直到做出了一款法棍可以让我说
And I didn't stop until I got a baguette that I said...
"我喜欢这法棍"
"I like this baguette."
这就是拉布瑞面包店的诞生
And La Brea Bakery was born!
大家好 我是朱莉娅·查尔德 欢迎来到我的厨房♥
Hello, I'm Julia Child. Welcome to my house.
我们今天将会特别愉快
What fun we're gonna have!
对我来说 朱莉娅·查尔德
Julia Child, to me,
是美国烹饪界的头等偶像
was one of the most important figures in American cooking.
就在我自己的厨房♥里
Right here, in my own kitchen.
南茜·席佛顿 是洛杉矶拉布瑞面包店的老板
Nancy Silverton, owner of La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles,
用新鲜水果烤出奶油蛋糕挞
bakes a crème fraîche brioche tart with fresh fruit.
节目组打电♥话♥给我叫我去参加朱莉娅的节目
They called me, and they asked me to come into Julia's kitchen
和她一起烤蛋糕
and bake with her.
唯一的困难是当时的橱柜特别高
The only difficulty was that the counter was so much higher
因为茱莉娅很高
because of her height.
现在呢我们要把奶油面团倒进另一个干净 干燥 小一点 抹了油的碗里
So we're gonna transfer our brioche to a nice, clean, lightly oiled bowl.
反正我当时在做奶油蛋糕挞
Anyway, I'm making a brioche tart.
一切都进展的很顺利
Everything is going well.
最后只要放上雪菜虾仁石果 这个蛋糕挞就完成了
And the tart is gonna be finished with this sautéed stone fruit
雪菜虾仁石果在非常非常烫的葡萄糖浆里
that was in a very, very hot wine syrup.
所以我快速的倒了蛋酒下去
So I quickly spoon on some zabaione.
我切下一小块给她 看着她
I cut a piece, and I give it to her, and I look at her.
然后她看着我
And she looks at me,
我可以清楚地看见她留下了眼泪
and I can see these tears streaming down her eyes.
当时我想"我刚烫着朱莉娅·查尔德了"
And I thought, "I just burned Julia Child."
这个甜点好吃哭了 真的
It's a dessert to cry over! Literally!
你的厨艺太赞了
You are just so good!
-谢谢夸奖 -不用谢
- Thank you! - You're welcome!
-这个太好吃了 -真的谢谢
- That's a triumph. - Thank you.
听到朱莉娅·查尔德说"这个甜点太赞了"
To have Julia Child say, "This is a delicious dessert,"
我当时就...
I was just...
这可能是别人对我最高的赞赏
That's probably the most flattering thing someone's ever said to me.
我这一辈子都不会忘记那场景
And I'll never forget that moment for the rest of my life.
-你是用了完全不同的黑麦 -是的
- But you get a really distinct rye. - Yeah.
我还能...
I still have...
不幸的是 我们还是要提醒顾客
It's unfortunate we still have to remind people that,
真正的黑麦面包尝起来是什么样的
this is what rye bread's like.
-是啊 -而不是香菜味的
- Right, yeah. - Not the caraway version.
但是我觉得吧
But you know what? But I think that, you know...
我还记得...
I remember the...
早些时候 我刚开拉布瑞面包店的时候
the earlier comments when, I first opened La Brea Bakery.
我记得一位顾客说的话
I remember one saying, you know.
一群老奶奶走进来说到"你的面包很脏"
Some old lady coming in and saying, "You know, your bread is dirty."
她看着篮子里剩余的试吃面包上面的
Looking at, like, you know, the flour pattern that's left from the,
面粉说到
rising... the proofing baskets.
但其他我收到的抱怨是"你的面包太多洞了"
But then the other complaint I got was, "Your bread is too holey."
现在 当然 这些都是我真的想要的反馈意见
Now, of course, that's what I really wanted.
花生酱从这些洞里肆意地流了出来
And all the peanut butter, you know, falls through.
记得吗
Remember?
拉布瑞面包店开张的第一年里
Within that first year of being open,
就火到爆
La Brea Bakery was just exploding.
当时空前成功 人们愿意排上几小时的队就为了买♥♥面包
It was such a huge success that people would line up for hours to buy the bread.
当时被称为 面包界的蒂凡尼
It was perceived as, like, a Tiffany Box,
如果你带着它去别人家
bringing it to someone's house.
被人会说"哇 你买♥♥到了南茜·西弗敦的面包"
It was," you got Nancy Silverton's loaves."
当时的情形就好比 食物界的潮流
This is before allocation was, like, a hip thing in the food business.
你根本买♥♥不到
It was just, you couldn't get it.
你能一辈子都记住南茜烤面包的味道
You remember the haunting flavor of Nancy's toasted bread for a lifetime.
这才是真正的面包
It's a loaf of integrity.
好吃到爆
Just astonishingly good.
你切下一块 面揉的特别地道
You cut into it and the strands of gluten are just gorgeous.
尝起来就好比你走进了冰洞里一样舒爽
It's almost like you're going into some, like, you know, ice cave or something.
那时候 我们每天很早就能卖♥♥完所有面包
Right away, we started selling out of bread very early in the day.
到中午一点的时候 我们就可以关门了
By 1:00 in the afternoon, our open sign was turned to closed.
那个时候特别激动
Just a very exciting time.
我负责和面 负责塑形 负责烘焙
I mixed, I shaped, and I baked every single loaf of bread.
-但我发现空间渐渐不够了 -我们决定扩张
- But I didn't have a lot of room to do it. - We had to expand.
所以我们搬去了位于范奈司的一个更大的地方
So we moved to a larger facility in Van Nuys.
每批次的面包数量要多得多
The batches of bread were much larger.
我也不能自己一个人和这么多面团
I couldn't mix all those batches of dough by myself.
我也根本不能烤这么多
I certainly couldn't bake it all.
我不得不放弃烘焙过程中的很多控制
I had to give up a lot of control over the baking process.
这对我来说太难了
But that was difficult for me.
从这些小篮子开始 到机器取代...
Going from these small buckets of starter to seeing these machines take over...
这种趋势势不可挡
It's overwhelming.
我慢慢意识到我每次的满足和喜悦...
I slowly realized that all the joy and the satisfaction I got...
并不是每天晚上工作结束前数钱
was not counting the money at the end of the day.
而是我和面 塑形 烘烤面包的时候
It was me mixing, shaping, and baking every loaf.
一旦这些我都做不了了...
And once it was no longer gonna be me...
那可能就不是我了
it may as well be somebody else's.
所以我们决定卖♥♥了这家店
So we decided to sell it.
不好意思 我是南茜
Excuse me, I'm Nancy.
-嗨 南茜 -你好 这个太好吃了
- Hi, Nancy! - Hi! It's so delicious.
-谢谢夸奖 -全部都很好吃
- Thank you. - Everything was great.
非常好吃 谢谢你给我们做了这么好吃的东西
Everything was excellent. Thanks for having us.
不会很辣吗
Not too spicy?
一点都不辣
No, I don't think so at all.
-那就好 -是的
- Great. - Yeah.
你身体还好吗
So how's your liver?
你尝了吗
Did you try some?
顾客们都来餐厅找我
Customers come to me at the restaurant,
然后说"那盘意大利面特别好吃"
and they say, "That pasta dish was so good."
我会回答说"丽兹下了一番功夫在里头"
And I'll say, "Liz did such a great job on it."
可是他们不愿听到这些
And they don't wanna hear it.
大家都认为 厨房♥里所有的菜都是我一人做的
People think that everything that's done in the kitchen is done by myself.
可并非如此
But it's not.
我感觉自己就像活在谎言里
I feel like I'm living a lie.
我在挑菜做菜的时候非常轻松
My comfort zone is touching food and being able to put it together,
然后由别人端上去
and then offer it.
要是我不是自己动手做菜的话...
If I'm not making something myself...
接受到的夸奖会让我很羞愧
then I feel really embarrassed accepting the compliments.
所以 大家这么崇拜我...
And so, I don't feel comfortable being put on...
让我非常不舒服
on a pedestal.
小心
Behind.
-这做得很好 -谢谢
- Now, that's a great one. - Thank you.
等我尝尝看...
Let's see...
看啊 很棒
Look at that. Beautiful.
你要个盘子吗
Do you need a plate?
要 我要让它凉一下