主厨的餐桌（2015）

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Everyone who tried it said, "wow Fantastic."
我当时说 "看来我在这方面有天赋咯"
And I said, "Okay, that must be a talent."
我意识到厨艺或许是我改变命运的钥匙
I realized that I had the chance with food to break out of my normal life,
远离曾经街头生活的机会
and get as far from the street as it was possible.
好了 现在大家先停一下
So, dürfen sich alle mal 'ne Minute nehmen,
我教你们如何正确地取鱼脊肉
und wir machen "Wie filetiere ich" Schulung.
先一刀剖开 鱼腹什么的切掉
Einmal komplett runterziehen...also das heißt mit dem ganzen Bauchlappen und...wegschneiden.
然后剔除鱼骨
Und dann Gräten ziehen.
不是说这块肉不能吃或者什么的
Hat an sich natürlich, ist nichts dagegen zu sagen, nur...
只不过咱们用不上它
interessiert uns ja nicht,
我们想要的部分都在这儿 跟这儿了
weil das, was wir wollen, liegt hier und hier.
这就是咱们要的剔骨鱼脊肉
Und das ist das reine Filet.
所以 有天我就自创了一种方法
Deswegen habe ich irgendwann mal, einen Weg entwickelt,
方便取我们想要地部分 也就是说...
den Fisch so zu zerlegen, dass es für uns geht, das heißt...
那时 我正式开始找工作了...
At that time, I started to look for a job...
那时真的是雄心勃勃
and I was really full of ambition.
我向五星级酒店投了简历
So I applied as a chef to restaurants in five star hotels.
但没有得到任何回复
I didn't get any response of them.
我也试着给一些体面的饭店和四星级酒店投过简历
Then I tried to do it in some proper restaurants and four star hotels.
也都石沉大海
Also didn't get any response.
三个月过去了 我一无所获
And after three months, nothing came back.
我想不通为什么
I didn't know really why.
我当初沮丧极了
I was really frustrated.
这就得到了完美的雪白的鱼脊肉
Wir haben perfektes weißes Filet.
后来五星级酒店的人力资源经理...
And then the human resources manager of a five star hotel...
她找我聊了一下
she invited me to talk.
她说 "我猜你投的简历都石沉大海了吧"
She told me, "I think you didn't get any responses."
我回答 "是啊 你怎么知道"
I said, "No, why you know?"
她接着说 "因为你来自克罗伊茨贝格区
And she said, "The reason is you're from Kreuzberg.
一个大家都避之不及的地区"
You're from a no-go area."
我没有意识到人们会介意这个
I didn't realize that anyone was looking about that.
我以为如果他们见到我本人 或者让我工作
I thought if they see me and if they let me work,
他们就会知道我胸怀抱负 刚毅有志
that they'll know I have ambition, I have passion, I'm a strong person.
但他们却说 "你没有机会
But they said, "You will never get that.
没人要你
No one wants you.
你只能找个鸟不拉屎的地方...
You have to find a really shitty place...
只有实在缺人的地方才愿意要你
where they really need people and they're willing to work with you."
但我当初想去的是米其林星级餐厅
I wanted to be in a Michelin star restaurant.
但只能去低档餐馆厅作为起步
But a lower class restaurant was the only way how I could start my career.
是这样吗
So oder wie?
我觉得 咱们的摆盘就没变过
Die Teller, glaube habe ich noch nie anders angerichtet.
除了这些点 时大时小
Außer die Punkte. Die werden mal größer mal kleiner.
取决于克里斯托弗做的出汁有多咸
Kommt immer drauf an, wie salzig Christoph das Dashi kocht.
我盐又放多了吗
Hab' ich wieder was versalzen?
不然呢
Wie immer.
我一开始是在瑞士木屋酒店工作
I started to work at Châlet Suisse.
那是个低档瑞士主题餐厅
It was a low-level, Swiss-themed restaurant.
厨房♥里气氛非常紧张
In the kitchen, there was a lot of aggression.
压抑 焦躁
There was pressure. There was hate.
剑拔弩张
There was tension.
感觉就像回到了街头
It was like on the street having fights.
一开始 我刀工不精
At the beginning, I had no talent for cutting anything.
没什么本事 但我有拼劲儿
I had no skills, but I was able to fight.
大家彼此较量 你死我活
It is a competition. You can win or lose.
我是要笑到最后的人
And I'm there to be the winner at the end of the day.
在这行想要升迁一般要
In the kitchen, the way to climb the ladder
先当二厨助手 然后是后厨领班
is that you start as commis chef, the next is demi chef,
再到二厨 初级主厨 副主厨 主厨
then chef de partie, junior sous chef, sous chef, and head chef.
-早 -早
-Hey. -Hey, morgen.
我还是二厨助手的时候 想当领班
When I was a commis, I wanted to get the demi chef position.
就盯着领班 跟他较劲
So I looked at the guy who was the demi chef, and I fucked him.
一整天
The whole day.
比他早到 比他做得更快
I was earlier than him. The jobs he did, I made it faster.
我去找主厨 我说
I went to the head chef and I said,
"我见你用的是领班切的洋葱
"I saw you get the onions from the demi chef,
但你不觉得我切得更好吗"
but don't you think I cut nicer?"
同事不喜欢我 也正常
Colleagues didn't like me, and they was right.
我是所有同事的眼中钉
I was the biggest pain in the ass for all my colleagues.
宝拉 你好
Hi, Paula.
我尽力争取 因为我知道这样
I did everything for power, because power showed me
我才能尽可能地远离街头市侩
that I was able to go as far from the street as it was possible.
不错
Nicht schlecht!
大浪淘沙 我不要被淘汰 也绝不回头
I wanted to survive. I never wanted to go back where I'm from.
美好的一天开始了 先生们
So, einen wunderschönen guten Morgen, die Herren!
于是我在23岁当上了主厨
That makes me become a head chef in the age of 23.
我是站在大家面前 交待工作
I was the one who was standing in front, announcing the orders,
发号♥施令的人
telling the others what to do, when to do.
我是最难对付的 最强势的
I was the toughest. I was the strongest.
我引领潮流
I was leading the pack.
让我想想...要不用鲑鱼
Mir fällt es jetzt tatsächlich schwer...einen Lachs nehmen?
想想能用它做什么
Und uns da halt erst mal überlegen, was wir machen können.
看着跟要做寿司或者刺身似的
Sieht aus, als würde man wirklich Sushi oder Sashimi davon machen.
2003年前后
Around 2003,
蒂姆·劳尔做出了一个创世之举
Tim Raue was putting things together nobody ever had put together.
想象一下 龙虾搭配柏林郊区牧场的甜菜的效果
Imagine you have a lobster together with beets from the fields out of Berlin.
他想要证明自己的能力
He wanted to prove what he can do.
因为他想展现自我
Because he wanted to show his identity.
创新 大胆
It was new. It was bold.
但没成功
But it didn't really work.
-刚刚吃的那个是什么 -木瓜...配上这个
- Was war das da? - Das war Papaya...mit dem.
评论家看不起他 因为这种做法对他们来说太陌生了
Food critics looked down on him because the food was strange to them.
当时柏林高档料理是清一色的传统法式料理
This was when fine dining in Berlin was traditional French cooking.
他迫切地想发掘自身潜能...
So as much as he wanted to discover who he is...
却太过惊世骇俗
it was a shocker for most people.
欧洲有一本杂♥志♥叫"高勒米罗美食指南"
In Europe, you have the guide called the Gault Millau.
它对我而言相当重要 因为他们能决定
Gault Millau, for me, was really important because they can decide
谁是德国真正的最佳厨师
who was really the best chef in Germany.
每到年末 指南发行...
At the end of the year, the guide was released...
"这人 他自觉无人能敌
and it said, "This guy, he thinks he's the greatest,
但做出地菜肴过于重口
but the dishes, they're totally overspiced.
他自以为很有创意...
He thinks he's really creative...
但... 他做的总归是垃圾"
but... it's more or less shit, what he is doing."
我想要成为伟大的厨师
I wanted to be a great chef.
但他们不理解我的烹饪方式
But they didn't understand my way of cooking.
我意识到如果我要想更进一步...
I realized that if I want to become bigger...
不破不立
I had to change something.
我今天做了抹茶佐鹅肝
Heute gibt es Gänseleber mit Matcha Grüntee.
敬请诸位品鉴
Probiert es doch bitte einmal.
多谢
Vielen Dank.
我曾在瑞士酒店待过
I was cooking at the Swissôtel.
那时 我对自己做的东西不自信
At that time, I was not self-confident with what I was doing.
我问自己 "真正成功的厨师都是怎么做的"
So I asked myself, "What are the really successful chefs doing?"
德国厨师当时正试图开♥发♥具有德国风味的
At that time, German chefs tried to cook French fine dining
法式料理
with some German influences.
我就开始学习那种料理
So I started studying that kind of cuisine.
-味道可好 -服务周到
-Gut? -Schönes Service.
身上每分钱 我都拿来买♥♥烹饪书和美食杂♥志♥
Any euro I had, I spent for cookbooks, for fine dining magazines.
全情投入
I soaked everything in.
一天工作十六七八个小时
I was working 16, 17, 18 hours per day.
不看电视 不闻世事
I didn't watch any TV. I didn't know anything about the world.
我的世界里只有烹调
It was just cooking.
蒂姆逐渐在厨界有了一席之地 并且越来越好
At that time, Tim developed his food, and it got subtler and subtler.
终于 蒂姆·劳尔打出了自己的招牌
And at a certain point, Tim Raue started to become big.
在2006年年底
At the end of the year 2006,
我接到了"高勒米罗美食指南"编辑的电♥话♥
I got a call from the editor of the Gault Millau.
他告诉我... 我被封为年度主厨
He told me that... they will award me Chef of the Year.
我是史上最年轻的受封者之一
I was one of the youngest to ever get that.
那时的我可谓应有尽有
It was a point where I had everything what I want.
餐厅生意兴隆 入选了米其林星级餐厅
The restaurant was packed. We had a Michelin star.
旁观者觉得一切尽善尽美...
Everyone thought from the outside view, everything is right...