主厨的餐桌（2015）

他们都对我很好
They were very nice to me.
从不冲我吼 也没把我当成笨蛋
They never yelled at me. They didn't treat me like I was stupid.
我感觉"他们人好 食物又好吃
And I was like, "Nice people, delicious food,
语言听起来也很有趣
language that sounds intriguing,
可惜我听不懂他们说什么"
but I don't understand what they're saying."
我爱上了这个不一样的世界
I fell in love with this different world.
古贺 特制鸡蛋拉面三份好了吗
古賀 特製卵三つオーケーですか
-三份特制鸡蛋拉面好了 -好的
卵三つオーケーです はいよ
您久等了 这是您的辣味噌拉面 中辣 请慢用
はい お待たせいたしました 辛味噌ラーメン普通 普通です はいどうぞ
怠慢了
お粗末様です
在大学里...
In college...
我学了日语
I studied Japanese.
所以毕业后
So when I graduated,
我想"要住在日本才有意义"
I thought, "Well, what makes sense is to go live in Japan."
飞机一降落在跑道上
As the tires of the plane hit the tarmac,
我就有种强烈的回到家的感觉
I had this overwhelming emotion of coming home.
我几乎要哭了
And I was just... Almost in tears.
一切都是那么特别... 和奇妙
It was so different... and magical.
人们很热情
It was very intense.
可我日语说得不太好 也很难融入
But I didn't speak that well, and it's hard to, like, get in.
我不知道该怎么办
I couldn't quite figure it out.
真的很茫然
It was really confounding.
直到有一天 我遇到了塔米
But then, one day, I met Tami.
她很美
She was very beautiful.
也非常强... 我们当然坠入了爱河
She was really strong... and we absolutely fell in love.
她为我开启了新世界的大门
She opened up this different world to me.
让我看到了自己缺失的东西
And she showed me what I was missing.
我们什么都吃
We ate everything.
居酒屋 寿司...
Izakaya, sushi...
当然还有拉面
and of course, ramen.
我爱拉面
I loved it.
我记得 我们会不时去某处品尝美食
I remember that, every once in a while, we would eat somewhere really good
吃完之后
and then, like, later on in the day,
我们看着彼此 眼神交汇 露出微笑
we would sort of look at each other, lock eyes and smile.
觉得在一起非常幸福
We were so happy together.
1990年 塔米在美国找到份工作
And then, in 1990, Tami got a job in the United States.
可我对自己的出路还没有半点头绪...
I didn't really have an inkling as to what I was doing with my life...
于是我跟着她回了美国
and so, I followed her back home.
离开日本的时候...
And when I left Japan...
我发誓一定会回来
I sort of vowed that I would come back.
想着"你们还没见识我伊凡·奥尔金的真本事呢"
It was sort of like, you know, "You haven't seen the last of Ivan Orkin."
日本菜的一个特点 可以说既是优点也是缺点
One of the things that, in a way, is sort of a good and bad thing
总的来说 就是极其严格
about Japanese cuisine in general is it's incredibly rigid.
有且仅有一种做法
There's really one way, and one way only.
一家好的天妇罗店 也许厨师能改动的
A good tempura shop, maybe the guy varies how much water
只有往面粉里加多少水 或加几个鸡蛋这种小事
he adds into his flour, or how many eggs.
没有太多自♥由♥发挥的空间
There is not that much latitude to wing it.
寿司也是一样
Same thing with sushi.
而我之所以喜欢拉面 就是因为它可以随心所欲
But what I like about ramen is, it is so freewheeling.
没什么规则 也没有规章手册
There are no rules. There's no rule book.
拉面传来日本只有不到百年的历史
ラーメン 日本にきたからまだ百年ちょっとです
非常时髦 在日本历史上也算是比较新的食物
非常に新しい 日本の歴史からしても新しい食べ物ではあります
拉面的前身是捞面
Ramen was lo mein.
这是拉面这个词的起源
That's where the word ramen comes from.
捞面是中国的一种小麦粉制的面条
Lo mein is a wheat noodle from China.
捞面最终成为了拉面
Lo mein eventually became ramen.
原名叫支那荞麦面 就是中国荞麦面的意思
It was called shina soba, which is like Chinese soba
这名字沿用了很久 因为带有种族歧视色彩
for a long time before that was kind of thought to be racist
就被弃置不用了
and left by the side of the road.
日本的烹饪传统吸收了这种制面法
And as it was taken into the Japanese cooking tradition,
并将其改良 增补 加入个人口味
it was refined, and added to, and personalized.
酱油拉面 盐味拉面 味噌拉面 豚骨拉面
醤油 塩 味噌 豚骨
粗面 细面
太い麺 細い麺
我认为这就是拉面的优点
これがあのラーメンのいいところと思ってます
主厨的经验十分重要
シェフの経験っていうのはとても大事なので
我认为在这方面 伊凡能够利用过去的经验
そういう意味においては アイバンさんもその過去の経験を活かして
更好地将拉面呈现给食客
ラーメンに上手く取りりってるなと思います
做拉面有1000多种不同的技法
There's 1,000 different little techniques that ramen shops use.
每家店都保留着一点
Everybody keeps a little bit of a mystery
他们做面的小秘诀
about how they make some part of their ramen.
我选择做拉面就是因为可以随心所欲
I chose to make ramen because I could do whatever the fuck I want.
拉面是日本菜肴中的特立独行者
Ramen is the maverick cuisine of Japan.
很好
Nice.
当时我和塔米一起住
I was living with Tami.
没什么特别想做的工作
I didn't have any specific job I wanted to do.
也还没完全找到自己的出路
I really hadn't fully found my way.
我在帮她卖♥♥电脑芯片
So I was working for her computer chip sales business.
我没卖♥♥出去过
I don't think I ever sold one,
也不知道怎么卖♥♥
and I don't think I ever figured out how to sell one,
我压根不知道芯片是什么
and I never understood what they were.
这活对他太难了 于是有一天我丈夫说
He was really struggling, so one day my husband said,
"你连电脑芯片和薯片都分不清"
"You know, you don't know a computer chip from a potato chip."
"你最好还是干点别的吧"
"So I think you better think about doing something else with your life."
他说"伊凡 管好你自己
And he said, "Ivan, get a hold of yourself, man.
你已经长大了 是个成年人了
You know, you're a grown... You're a grown-up now.
你该决定自己想做的事了"
You need to decide what you want to do with your life."
"你整天都在说吃的 好像只有食物能让你兴奋
"All you do is talk about food. All you seem to be excited about is food.
也许你该去上烹饪学校 进入烹饪行业"
Maybe you should go to cooking school and get into the cooking business."
我说"真是个好主意"
And I said, "That's a great idea."
我就去了烹饪学校... 我不喜欢那里
So I went to culinary school... and I hated it.
我讨厌上学
I don't like school.
说到底就一句话 我讨厌上学
Just what it comes down to. I don't like school.
可我热爱烹饪...
But I loved cooking...
也很擅长做菜
and I was, like, really good at it.
毕业后 我在梅萨烧烤店 和鲍比·弗雷一起工作
And when I graduated, I got a job at Mesa Grill with Bobby Flay.
那时候 梅萨烧烤是全美最有创意
At the time, Mesa Grill was one of the most creative,
也是最有趣的餐厅之一
most interesting restaurants in America.
我第一次负责周六晚间的烹饪
The first time I worked a Saturday night,
第二天 鲍比问我
and the next day, Bobby said,
"伊凡 你觉得你昨晚表现如何"
"Ivan, how do you think things went for you last night?"
我说"我觉得...
I said, "You know what? I think that, you know, they...
总的来说 我觉得干的相当不错"
All in all, I think it went pretty well."
他说"你棒极了"
And he goes... he goes, "You got killed!"
我说"是啊 我棒极了"
I was like, "Yeah, yeah. I got killed."
成为厨师后 我才真正开始成长
Becoming a cook was the beginning of my growth.
这是我第一次体会到
It was the first time in my life where, I think,
自律是人生中不可或缺的要素
discipline became like a necessary component of living.
我以前从来不会忍♥耐 可突然发现
I'd never had to suck it up before. And all of a sudden,
你必须去忍♥耐 而我愿意忍♥耐 我能接受
you know, you had to suck it up, and I liked it, and I bought into it.
起码我已开始走向成功之路
It's where I started to at least get on a path to success.
作为一名训练有素的厨师 我喜欢掌控一切
As a trained cook, I really like control.
入了拉面这一行以后
So when I got into the ramen game,
我明白了我该怎样烹制面汤
I understood how I wanted to make the soup,
也真正懂得了怎样按我的想法制♥作♥面条
but I also had a real idea about how I wanted to make the noodles.
所以我决定要成为一名制面师
So I decided, I'm gonna be a noodle maker...
虽然日本有制面师 但并不多
which, while not unheard of in Japan, is not very common.
有一天 我预定了20种不同面粉的样品
One day, I just ordered like 20 different samples of flour,
然后开始做很多很多的面条
and I just started making lots and lots of noodles.
标准的拉面一般只用一种面粉
Your standard ramen used only one flour,
而我开始使用两到三种面粉
so I started using two or three flours.
并在面条中加入大量的水
I used a lot of water in my noodles,
在我看来 水分充足的面条更弹更有嚼劲
and I think adding more water gives it more of a bite and more of a chew.
我开始烤面粉...
And I started toasting flour...
接着混匀
and then blended it,
这样当你尝一口 就能感觉到一股浓厚又醇正的烤土司的香味
so that you would get this really nice, toasty flavor pop when you bit into it.
拉面店的经营方式
ラーメンを作る方は
大致分为匠人型和商业型
職人タイプとビジネスタイプと分かれています。
现在商业型的占大多数
リアルビジネスタイプ圧倒的に多いので
他们把工厂做好的面稍作处理 端给客人
つまり工場で作ったものをお客様にちょっとアレンジして出すのですね
另一方面 自己制♥作♥拉面的店主可以说是匠人
で一方 一人でやっている店主は完全な職人ですね