主厨的餐桌（2015）

大家都照着一本菜谱做菜
And everyone cooked from one book of recipes
叫"美味并且健康的食物"
called On Tasty and Healthy Food.
他们想让所有人变得模式化
They were trying to paint everyone with the same brush.
毫无创意
There was no creativity at all.
完全不放盐吗
Shall I not salt it at all?
不 每层之间抹上盐和胡椒粉
Well, you should add salt and pepper between the layers.
对 就这样 田园风格
Yes, just like that. The peasant style.
给我来点芹菜
I'll take some parsley now.
记得你说过美国有种芹菜的茎可以吃吗
Remember you told me that in America there is a stem of parsley?
记得
Yes.
你知道我在用了吗 用来做甜点了
Do you know that I'm using it? That I make a dessert of it?
当然知道 我可是你老爹
Of course. I am your dad, after all.
我小时候
When I was young,
我爸是镇上最出名的厨师之一
my dad was one of the most famous chefs in our town.
他成天在厨房♥里忙来忙去
He was always busy at work in the kitchen.
三个茄子
Three eggplants.
-地方不够了 -会压下去的
- There won't be enough room. - It will press down.
-好吧 -真会压下去
- Okay. - It will press down.
我总想找机会跟他待在一起
I was always fighting for a possibility to spend time with him.
可当我最终看到我爸的厨艺时...
And when I finally saw what my dad was doing in the kitchen...
我就明白 这将是我一生的目标
I knew what I would do with my life.
我记得弗拉迪米尔说 "我要当厨师"
I remember Vladimir saying, "I want to be a cook.
我要当主厨
I want to be a chef.
-我要跟你一样棒 -我要比你更厉害"
- I want to be like you. - I want to be better than you."
他当时才12岁
He was 12 at that time.
就这样 他来我厨房♥工作
So he found himself in my kitchen.
我这人要求非常高
I am a very demanding person.
所以这活儿对他来说 肯定很难
So it was going to be difficult for him.
盖上盖子
Cover it with the lid.
放到火上
And put it on the fire.
我爸立马给我了一份最差的差事
Dad gave me the worst jobs right away.
我洗了一段时间盘子
So I was washing dishes for a while.
朋友们还在酣睡时 我已经上班去了
While my friends were still asleep, I went to work.
他们一般一次带三四头牛来
They used to bring us three to four cows at a time.
每头有1200斤左右
About 1,300 lbs each.
你得要沿着肋骨下刀
You have to pull a knife along each rib.
这个非常难
It's very hard work.
我有次差点把自己捅穿了
I remember I almost stabbed myself in the stomach.
那火要小点
We need lower fire.
-要加水吗 -加啊
- Shall we pour some water? - Of course.
我爸的要求很高
Dad set a really high bar.
在他眼里 每个失误都是场灾难 或是爆♥炸♥
Every mistake was regarded as a catastrophe, an explosion.
太难了
It was very difficult.
看 多有弹性
Look, so tender.
就算你坐上去 它都能弹起来
You can sit on it, and it will spring right back.
这是传统的蜜糖饼[俄♥罗♥斯♥烘焙糕点]
This is a traditional pryanik.
是传统丹尼洛夫配方的改良版
It's a traditional Danilov recipe, restored.
这里面有馅儿
There is filling in there.
来尝尝
Let's taste it.
-好吃吗 -好吃哭了
- Delicious? - Unreal!
在俄♥罗♥斯♥ 有一些很有意思的烹饪传统
In Russia, we had some pretty interesting culinary traditions.
不幸的是 他们都遗失了
Unfortunately, we have lost them all.
这是个经典款 寺院甜品
This is really a classic one, a monastery dessert.
现在 弗拉迪米尔正在努力复兴传统俄式美食
And now, Vladimir is trying to revive old-school Russian cuisine.
他和他的团队 成月泡在图书馆里
Vladimir and his team have spent months in the libraries,
挖掘这些老菜谱
discovering old recipes.
同时也找到一些很有趣的东西
And they've discovered some really interesting things.
我在旧书里看到个老派俄菜的菜谱
There is an old Russian recipe that I found in an old book.
鹿唇卷心菜汤
Moose lips shchi.
当我在书里看到"鹿唇"的时候...
When I read about the moose lips in the book...
我就开始了各种想象
I started to fantasize, to visualize them.
鹿唇 我想象着应该怎么做
Moose lips. I imagined them, how I'd cook them.
可当他们真把麋鹿带来的时候...
But when they actually brought the moose head...
我看着它的眼睛...
I looked into its eyes...
大感震撼
and I was shocked.
鹿唇这部分可以吃 这里 悬着的部分
This part of the lips is what is edible. Here, where it is hanging.
我开始用先辈的方式来烹饪它们
I started by cooking in the same style our ancestors had cooked them.
我是在复兴旧菜品
I was restoring the old recipe
重现老味道
and restoring the old flavor.
我喜欢把口感和浓烈的味道进行调和
I liked the combination, the texture, the intense flavor.
取其之长 为我所用
So I gathered all that and tried to make it my way.
我想把老味道原原本本地传承下去
My task is to preserve the exact taste from the past,
而在盘中呈现之时 要有现代感
but visually, on the plate, make it modern.
所以 我把鹿唇卷心菜汤的味道
So I took the taste of moose lips shchi
提炼出来 包进饺子
and packed it into dumplings.
还记得丑小鸭的故事吗
Remember the story about the ugly duckling?
转变
Transformation.
这成了一种趋势
That became a trend.
现在俄♥罗♥斯♥很多餐厅都做鹿唇了
Moose lips are cooked at many restaurants in Russia now.
这对我来说很重要...
It's important for me...
使用并尽可能多地转变老派正宗菜谱...
to use as many old authentic recipes as possible, to transform them...
把它们变成流行美食
and turn them into a fashionable dish
直到全世界都会做
that one day will be cooked all over the world.
# 今晚克里姆林宫将降下红旗 #
The red flag came down over the Kremlin tonight,
# 以纪念戈尔巴乔夫总统辞职 #
as President Gorbachev resigned
# 和苏联七年共♥产♥主义统治的结束 #
and brought to an end seven decades of communist rule in the Soviet Union.
勇敢的90年代
The daring 1990s.
从那时起 一切都开始变了
That's when everything started changing.
那是爆♥炸♥式的突破
There was an explosion, a breakthrough,
从前被禁止接触的一切外来事物
and everything that was outside and forbidden to us before
瞬间近在眼前
immediately became available.
全球化的趋势蔓延全国
The globalization touched our whole nation.
那时我还年轻
I was young,
突然被士力架 玛氏 特克斯[巧克力品牌]包围了
and I am immediately surrounded by Snickers, Mars, Twix.
我不知道啥是... 巧克力豆
I don't know what... M&M's.
它们走进我的生活
All this came to my life.
曾如此独特 又不可接触
It was so unique and so forbidden.
新餐厅 新食物如雨后春笋般出现
Suddenly new restaurants emerged out of nowhere, new products.
这对苏联的厨师绝对是新鲜事
It was definitely something new for a Soviet cook.
俄♥罗♥斯♥美食文化有了长足进步
Russian gastronomical culture made a gigantic step forward,
像坐火箭一样
like a rocket took off in Russia.
选鱼 先看鳃
Choosing a fish, first of all, you should pay attention to its gills.
鱼鳃必须漂亮 鱼眼不能发白
Its gills should always be good-looking and eyes should not be cloudy.
闻起来得有大海的味道
It should always smell like the sea.
有鱼味儿的 对吧
Smells like fish, right?
我18岁那年
When I was 18 years old,
当上了父亲餐厅的主厨
I was appointed chef in my dad's restaurant.
我是那片最年轻的厨师
I was the youngest cook in the whole area,
没准也是全国最年轻的
if not in the whole country.
我本可以做个悠然自得的居家男
I had everything to create the cozy life of a family man.
-我有房♥有车 -还有热恋中的女友...
- I had a house and a car. - I had a girlfriend whom I was dating...
可我想证明自己能做得更好
but I wanted to prove that I was capable of more.
父亲做的是传统俄♥罗♥斯♥菜肴
My father was doing classic Russian dishes.
他的菜 货真价实 满含俄♥罗♥斯♥风味
That is, it was genuine; his dishes were filled with Russian taste.
不过 我喜欢欧洲烹饪方法
However, I liked what the Europeans were doing.
弗拉迪米尔开始把传统菜肴 配料 佐酱
Vladimir began to change traditional dishes, sides and sauces
变成不同的东西
into something different.
他最终转向了现代的美食
He eventually shifted towards modern cuisine.
有很长一段时间 我都不认同
I disagreed with it for a long time.
到后来 菜单被一分为二
To the extent that the menu got split in two.
客人知道老穆欣做的是传统苏联菜
Customers knew the Soviet classics were from Mukhin Senior
小穆欣做的是现代风格的菜
and the modernized dishes were from Mukhin Junior.
结果 "一山容不得二虎"
Eventually our small town became too cramped for the both of us.
他想去莫斯科...
He started visiting Moscow...
想在那里定居
trying to settle there.
我跟我爸谈了很久
Dad and I had a very serious talk.
他说 "你在这里什么都有...
Dad said, "Here, you've got everything...
去了那边 你一无所有
and there, you will have nothing.
-你得重新开始 -白手起家"
- You'll have to start over. - Go back to the very beginning."
那次交谈后 我想了很多
I was thinking a lot after this conversation.