主厨的餐桌（2015）

脱离父亲的掌控 做我自己的事 这很重要
It was always important for me to do something outside of Dad's control.
所以我决定去莫斯科
So I decided to go to Moscow.
伙计们 精神点 大把活儿等着干
Guys, attention! There are plenty of orders ahead.
现在八字还没一撇呢
We haven't seen anything yet.
加把劲
Speed up!
在我老家叶列茨 我说一不二
Back home in Essentuki, I was the goddamn king of the castle.
在这儿 他们让我负责洗涤槽
I came here, and they send me to the sink.
跑起来
Runners!
我刷过盘子 削过土豆 剥过蔬菜 洗过蛤贝
I was washing dishes, peeling potatoes, peeling veggies, cleaning mussels.
从底层一步步做起
I started from the bottom.
虽然苦 但这是我的生活
It was hard for me, but it was my life.
我从主厨那里学到的东西
What I learned from the cooks and the chefs
让我十分痴迷
was insanely interesting for me.
他们告诉我很多欧洲的烹饪技巧和方法
They introduced me to many European technologies and ways to cook.
我父亲很失望
Father was very upset.
好久不跟我说话 因为他不理解我的决定
He didn't talk to me for a long time, because he didn't understand my decision.
他几次三番想让我回家
He tried to get me to come home several times.
送他亲手做的饭菜给我
He was sending food cooked by his own hands.
飨物思人
I was eating his food and thinking of home.
他想让我知道 我翅膀还不够硬
He was showing me that I was still under his control.
没有交流的那段时间里 感觉很糟糕
When we stopped communicating, for me it was a tragedy.
可我热爱在俄♥罗♥斯♥菜上做文章
But I loved cheating on the Russian cuisine.
之前 我总在他眼皮底下...
I had always been under his eye...
在这儿 我从那种生活挣脱出来
and, here, I broke free from that life.
我找到自♥由♥的感觉
I felt what freedom was like.
伙计们 知道Trutovik吗
Guys, do you know what trutovik is?
这菜现在在俄♥罗♥斯♥很火
Right now, trutovik is a trend all over Russia.
开始作蘑菇料理吧
Okay, let's cook the mushrooms.
成为副主厨后 我在法国亚维农工作过一段时间
When I became a sous-chef, I spent some time in Avignon, France.
那会儿我在克里斯汀·艾蒂安[米其林一星餐厅]
I was working at Restaurant Christian Etienne.
有一天 克里斯汀在做俄♥罗♥斯♥菜
And one day, Christian was cooking Russian cuisine.
我看着那个菜 跟他说 "克里斯汀...
When I looked at it, I said, "Christian...
恕我直言 你是个了不起的主厨
with all my respect, you are a kickass chef,
可你做的根本不是俄♥罗♥斯♥菜
but what you are cooking is not Russian cuisine.
这菜做得太差劲了
It's a pathetic excuse for it.
想尝尝正宗俄♥罗♥斯♥风味吗"
Do you want me to give you the real Russian taste?"
他说 "你来"
He said, "Go ahead!"
我做了几样地道的俄♥罗♥斯♥菜
And I cooked real Russian dishes.
我记得很清楚 他喜欢罗宋汤
I clearly remember, he loved the borscht.
我现在还有他吃菜 评菜的照片
I even have photos of him tasting and saying,
之后 我写了份菜单
After that, I wrote a menu.
他稍作改动 减了些配菜的分量...
He made a few revisions, made some things lighter...
换了些酱汁 还有些别的
changed some sauce and so on.
法国客人吃过后倍感惊喜
His French clients who ate it were amazed.
他们很喜欢他做的俄♥罗♥斯♥菜
They loved his Russian cooking.
各位 这是堪察加半岛的扇贝
Voilà. This is, scallops from, Kamchatka.
只要在俄♥罗♥斯♥ 我们...
Every time in Russia, we...
父亲教我的 融合不同口味的方法...
The many taste combinations my dad taught me...
非常有用
they really do work.
这是用地道俄♥罗♥斯♥手艺烤的
It's, typical Russian, as we bake it.
后来我意识到 在当今世界
Then I realized that Russian cuisine
俄♥罗♥斯♥美食也能有一席之地
can have its own place in the modern world.
我们潜力无穷
We do have the potential.
有些人认为用蜂蜜酿酒
Some people think that it is impossible
是无稽之谈
to make wine out of honey.
那是他们没喝过这个
They should drink this.
好好喝
Terrific.
那次法国之行令我大为吃惊
I was extremely amazed by that trip to France.
后来 我一发不可收拾
And after that, I could not stop.
我学了家族的烹饪知识
I had my family knowledge,
还想用俄式烹饪技巧加以完善
but I wanted to complement it with knowledge from all over Russia.
这种蜂蜜酒是雅罗斯拉夫斯卡亚地区独有的
This Dousheparka honey ale is only made in Yaroslavskaya region.
我想一点点学习烹饪知识
The idea was to build my knowledge brick by brick.
所以我游历四方 遍访高人
So I started traveling a lot and talking to people.
你用了什么香料 月桂叶吗
Do you use any spice, laurel?
月桂叶是必用的
Laurel at all times.
糖呢
Sugar?
绝不能放糖
Absolutely no sugar!
卷心菜汤不可以用糖
That is not for shchi.
他们为我打开通往神奇的大门...
These people opened new doors for me...
我开始寻回那些古老配方
and I actually started to recover all these old recipes.
慢慢揭开俄式美食的面纱
Russian cuisine was revealing its face.
这些牛吃什么才会产这么鲜美的奶
Do they eat something particular that makes their milk so special?
它们平常吃有毒植物
Noxious plants are part of their diet.
开玩笑吧 有毒植物
Are you serious? They eat noxious plants?
没错 那可是牛的美味佳肴
Yes. It's like a delicacy for them.
再过三年 这些小[鲟]鱼就能产鱼子酱了
In three years, this little fish will give caviar.
三年 厉害
Three years? Cool.
旅行途中 我发现了新菜品
While traveling, I discovered new products,
和一些有趣的成果
interesting new produce.
人们行事各有不同
People did everything differently.
神啊 神啊 许我们肥沃的草地
Kvasura, Kvasura, bless our mead.
如果这羊喝了 那就是好兆头
And if the goat drinks it up, then it will be good.
我觉得一切都很新鲜
Everything was new for me.
对我来说 这是个重大突破
For me, it was quite a breakthrough.
后来我遇到我的合伙人 白兔餐厅的老板 鲍里斯
Then I happened to meet my partner, Boris, the owner of White Rabbit.
加油
Da!
那时 用俄语说 我像提了个核武器箱
At that moment, I had this nuclear suitcase, as they say in Russia.
我上到16楼...
I went up to the 16th floor, and...
决定在那儿引爆它
I decided to detonate it here.
走吧
Let's go.
这是酸乳
So this one is ryazhenka.
在顶部 我加了帕斯蒂拉
And on the top, I put pastila.
帕斯蒂拉 是用苹果和蜂蜜混制的甜点
Pastila is just a, apple and honey. Mixed.
就像棉花糖
It's like marshmallow, you know.
这是块 天鹅肝
And this one is, liver of a swan.
我开白兔餐厅那会儿
When I opened White Rabbit,
意大利菜风行一时
at that time, we had a boom of Italian restaurants.
之后 日本寿司的风潮又席卷全国
After that, a boom of Japanese sushi restaurants rolled across the country.
俄♥罗♥斯♥饮食文化
Our Russian restaurant culture
也是全球化现象的一部分
was centered on the phenomenon of globalization.
当我们决定向顾客展示俄♥罗♥斯♥菜的时候
So when we started sharing Russian food with our customers,
有很多质疑之声
there was a lot of skepticism.
起初 人们并不理解
In the beginning, people didn't understand.
我差点和顾客吵起来
I almost had fights with the guests.
我们从黑海[欧亚内陆海]购回牡蛎
We were buying oysters from the Black Sea,
用独特的手法加以烹制
and we were cooking those in an unique way.
顾客吃过后说 "我去过法国
They would eat them and say, "I've been to France.
也吃过法国牡蛎 味道不是这样
I was eating oysters there, and they had a different taste.
我要吃那样的牡蛎"
I want oysters like that."
我回她 "俄♥罗♥斯♥也有牡蛎啊
I would say, "But these are our Russian ingredients.
我们应该为自己的食材骄傲啊"
We should be proud of what we have."
那段时间很难熬 我也很失落
It was a very critical period for me, and I was desperate.
我想让俄♥罗♥斯♥食客见识地道的俄♥罗♥斯♥菜...
I wanted to show the Russian guests exactly what their cuisine is like...
还想让他们知道 俄♥罗♥斯♥也是发达国家之一
and to show them that Russia is also a developed country like the others.
可俄♥罗♥斯♥人不太懂
But the Russians couldn't understand.
目之所及 到处是残忍♥的屠♥杀♥
Utter carnage everywhere you look.
面对这样的屠♥杀♥...
In the midst of all this destruction...
士兵们整装待发
soldiers awaited orders.
他们里面 有很多俄♥罗♥斯♥人
Amongst them, plenty of Russians.
这是一场反♥革♥命♥ 而且愈演愈烈
This is a counter-revolution, and it's gaining ground.
我和德国总理默克尔刚谈过
I just spoke with Chancellor Merkel of Germany.
我们认为俄♥罗♥斯♥需要对东乌克兰的暴♥乱♥负责
We agree that Russia is responsible for the violence in Eastern Ukraine.
因此 美国决定对俄♥罗♥斯♥经济的重要领域
As a result, the United States is imposing new sanctions
采取新的制裁行动
in key sectors of the Russian economy.
这些制裁
About these sanctions.
不只是美国或其盟国对乌克兰事件中
These are not just a nervous reaction of the US or its allies
我国立场的紧张反应
to our position on the events in Ukraine.
即使没有暴♥乱♥发生
If none of this had happened,
他们也会找别的借口
they would have come up with another excuse