主厨的餐桌（2015）

Yeah, that's... ugh! I don't like it. It's so soggy.
-好 继续尝别的 -嗯
- All right. Moving on. - Okay.
-这个呢 -这个...这个
- How's that? - Yeah, it's... That...
这个没有姜 味道好多了 而且 这色泽...
This one's much better without the ginger. Plus, the color...
让我想起枫树 这个没这种感觉
That makes me think maple, and this doesn't.
-这个... -怎么了
- Well... No. - Really? What?
-怎么尝起来像糖浆 -有红糖
- Does it taste like molasses? - With the brown sugar.
-嗯 糖浆 -但是不多
- Yeah, molasses. - But not a lot.
好吧 我能理解 但是还是不是我想要的
Yeah. I understand that, but this isn't the answer.
-你不喜欢这个吗 -嗯 都不喜欢
- You don't like this? - No, neither.
-我是说 确实比那个口感好 -当然
- I mean, it's better than this. - Yeah. For sure.
但是 它们不是...它们不是我想要的
No, but they're not... They're not ready at all.
-好吧 -这是带辣味的糖果核桃
- All right. - Now this is the spicy candy walnuts.
-很辣啊 有辣味好吃吗 -真好吃
- It's spicy. Is it good with the spice? - It's really good.
-好 就是它了 -嗯 就选它了
- Okay, this is it. - Yeah, this is it.
不错 我们选了一样不错的
Okay, well, we got one good one down.
-嗯 -选了一个了
- Okay. - There we are, one.
在膳朵餐厅工作几年后
After a few years at Spago,
马克和我决定结婚组建一个家庭
Mark and I decided to get married and start a family.
但是我们没有时间度蜜月
But there was no honeymoon period.
我们的作息时间完全不同
We kept completely different hours.
他晚上工作
He worked at night.
我主要是白天工作
I worked mainly in the day.
所以我们常常不能在一起
So we weren't together that often.
我女儿在一个星期四出生 那天我休假
My daughter was born on a Thursday, my day off.
下一个周二 我就回去工作了
And I was back at work on Tuesday.
那时候非常非常辛苦
It was very, very difficult.
我们想离开
We wanted to get away.
意大利有些东西吸引着我前往
There was something that was pulling me to Italy.
所以我们决定在那里租住一个月
So we decided to rent a house for a month.
那个夏天 真的超级放松 非常享受
That summer, it really was relaxing and joyful.
我非常爱那里的氛围
There was just something about the vibe there that I loved.
真的有家的感觉
It really just felt like home.
我们在小面包店吃东西
We were eating at little bakeries.
在当地市场买♥♥农产品
And buying produce at local markets.
我们烹饪得很简单 但是都很新鲜
We were cooking very simply, but we were cooking very fresh.
我们这才意识到 那种食物是我们都喜欢做的
And we realized that the kind of food that we both liked to cook
必须依靠非常新鲜的食材
relies very heavily on fresh ingredients.
所以 我们决定开一家自己的餐厅
And so, we decided that we needed to open our own restaurant.
我们打算将食材的原滋原味
Being able to coax a
都呈现出来 而不是把它遮盖住
flavor out of an ingredient without hiding it,
对我来说 正是那次旅行让我的真正明确了这种思路
is something that was really defined on that trip for me.
1987到1988年
In 1987-'88...
马克和我开始寻找
Mark and I started looking
合适的地点 准备开一家餐厅
for a location for a future restaurant.
我们意识到 如果我们找个一个足够大的地方
And realizing that it would be a great addition
同时开一个面包店
if I could find a space that was large enough
会是非常好的商业组合
to have a bakery also.
我们找到了一个我们都非常好喜欢的地方
We found a location that we both really liked.
那是一个很棒很酷炫的地方
It was this great, crazy building
房♥顶上还有个金属尖塔 塔尖上挂着个星星
with a metal tower and a big star on top.
之后我们搬到了餐厅的楼上
And then we actually moved in upstairs from the restaurant.
-我们想给它取个意大利名字 -坎帕尼莱有两层意思
- We wanted to give it an Italian name. - Campanile has two meanings.
它既代表"钟塔" 也代表"聚会的地方."
It means "bell tower," but it's also "the meeting place."
这样你可以说"我在钟楼等你"
So you would say, "I'll meet you at the campanile."
所以我觉得这名字很合适
So it felt like the right name.
接下来我们开始研究菜单
And we started collaborating on the menu.
钟楼刚开业的时候
When Campanile opened,
几乎震惊了洛杉矶的餐饮界
it was almost a shock through the food system of LA.
这里有几乎无人品尝过的美味意餐
They had great Italian dishes that nobody had really ever seen before.
我们住在爸妈开的餐厅楼上
We lived above my parents' restaurant
就在这个小小的公♥寓♥里
in this very small apartment.
爸爸每晚都在烤架后面忙碌
And my dad, you know, was behind the grill every single night.
妈妈做油酥点心
My mom was, you know, running pastry.
哥哥和我则在公♥寓♥里穿着旱冰鞋
My brother and I would Rollerblade inside the apartment
各种捣乱
and get in a lot of trouble,
你能听到楼下餐馆传来的声音
'cause you could hear it downstairs in the dining room.
就好像钟楼就是我们的家一样
It felt like Campanile was our house.
有一段时间
There was a period
我每周去钟楼吃三次东西
where I would eat at the counter at Campanile three times a week.
那里有超棒的甜品
There would always be desserts.
她用香草调味
She used herbs to make the flavors,
特别是配着巧克力和果馅饼一起 简直好吃上天
especially with things like chocolate and, fruit tarts, just soar.
除了经营好吃的甜品
Besides running that fantastic dessert program,
南茜还组织了烤奶酪三明治之夜
Nancy came up with the Grilled Cheese Night
人们在周四晚上聚在这
and people would show up on Thursday nights.
她就站在吧台后面做三明治
She would be behind the bar making sandwiches,
大家都围着她
and everybody would be around her.
食客们把南茜视为神
That put her in kind of a cult status.
人们会问"你去过星期四的烤奶酪三明治之夜吗"
Like, people are, "Have you been to the Grilled Cheese Night on Thursdays?"
然后大家说"什么 你是怎么参加上的"
And they're like, "What? How do you get in?"
"你肯定跟南茜有点什么关系"
"You gotta kinda know Nancy,"
因为他们店总是拒绝人们入场
'cause they were turning people away at this bar.
我是说 其实那只是这地方的一个吧台
I mean, it was just, like, a bar attached to the place.
她丈夫是整个加州最棒的烧味主厨
Her husband was the best grill chef in California.
但她的审美观对餐厅的来说很重要
But her aesthetic was always very important to the restaurant.
而且我觉得她很可能是两个人中更强势的那一个
And I think that she was probably the more ambitious of the two.
阿龙 我们等你很久了
Dragan! We've been waiting for you.
车厢今天怎么这么满啊
Why is it so stuffed today?
我带了很多材料 看
I got a lot of stuff! See?
-有蔓越莓 -你带了什么
- We have some cranberries. - What do you have now?
-还有什么 -今天只有蔓越莓
- What else? - Yeah, just cranberry today.
-只有蔓越莓吗 -是啊
- Still cranberry? - Yeah.
弗拉若莱豆什么时候能到
When are flageolet?
-我这有些脱水的 -不 要新鲜的
- We have some dry flageolet. - No, fresh.
-我知道 -几米那贝罗[一种辣椒]什么时候到
- No, I know. - What about our Jimmy Nardello?
-我觉得还得一个月 -还得一个月
- I'd say for probably another month. - Another month?
嫩菊苣呢 只要...
What about baby chicories? Just still...
-我们有... -等等 或者紫叶菊苣 或是...
- We have... - Wait, just radicchio, or some...
-还是嫩菊苣吧 -没有卡斯特尔夫朗科吗[一种卷心菜]
- Yeah, just baby radicchio. - No castelfranco?
没有
No.
你是不是给贝斯蒂亚[LA另一家有名的意餐店]留了点更好的东西
Do you have better ones that you're hiding for Bestia?
-给 -这是...
- Here. - Is that...
我爱波斯桑葚
I love Persian mulberries.
这个小哈密瓜有什么稀奇
Did you by any chance get wiser on the small cantaloupe?
这个品种不同 这种叫洛奇甜瓜
This is a different variety. This is called rocky sweet.
好吧
Okay.
-很棒 -很好
- It's good. - Good.
好吃
Delicious.
-这不是我... -太好吃了
- Isn't that the one that I... - It's delicious!
这还有些很好的南瓜花
Here are some really nice squash blossoms.
好极了
Great.
菠菜 要吗
Spinach for Estidio, okay?
-你有芥蓝菜吗 -有
- You have baby kale? - Yeah.
平克顿牛油果呢 你有平克顿牛油果吗
And what about Pinkerton? Do you have any Pinkerton?
我只有...今天只有些奇异牛油果
We do... I only have surprise avocado today.
我能尝尝金色阳光吗[奇异果的一个品种]
Can I taste the Sungold?
还是算了...什么 能不只给我三片叶子吗
I mean, no... What? Let me see more than three leaves.
-有豆角吗 -有豆角
- What about haricot vert? - We have some haricot vert.
-多少钱一磅 -五刀一磅
- How much are they a pound? - They are five a pound.
四刀吧 你今天来晚了
Four a pound. You were late today.
南茜·西弗敦刚开始准备做面包的时候
When Nancy Silverton first started thinking about bread,
美国面包都是切好装在塑料袋里的
American bread was pre-sliced in a plastic bag,
有两周的保质期
and had a two-week shelf life.
但当她在欧洲旅行中尝到了超赞的面包后
But traveling in Europe and understanding the fantastic bread,
南茜也想做出这样的面包
Nancy started to get the idea of making this happen.
一直以来 人们都说
For years, people had been saying
我们在美国做不出欧式面包
we can't make the European-style bread in America,
因为我们没有那样的面粉 也没有当地的水
because we don't have the flour, we don't have the water.
但我曾去过伯克利的一家叫顶峰的小面包店
But I had been to a little bakery called Acme in Berkeley,
尝过那儿的面包后 我意识到这是可以做到的