主厨的餐桌（2015）

他们自己制♥作♥并提供那种
ほかの店にはまねができないようなラーメン
其他店无法模仿的拉面
自分で作り上げて自分で提供する
而就连日本的匠人
日本人の職人ですら
要做到自己亲自♥制♥作面条 也是相当困难的
自分で面を作るというのはなかなかできないことなんですね
通常他们做完汤之后就交给副厨了
このスープを作ったりして 普通後アシスタントに任してたり
这样操作的店比较多
そういうお店も多いことは多いですね
据我所知 伊凡家面条最显著的特征
The most distinguishing characteristic I know about Ivan's noodles
就是他混入了黑麦粉
is the way that he adds rye flour to the mix,
因为这一做法在日料中并不常见
because that's not something that you would ever do in Japanese cooking.
但我认为 伊凡继承了犹太人做♥鸡♥汤面的精髓
But I think it's Ivan taking his Jewish chicken-noodle-soup heritage
并在拉面中得以发扬光大
and applying that to the noodles.
面条劲道弹牙
They're still bouncy, and springy, and they slurp well,
爽滑可口 只因混入了黑麦粉
and they've got good mouth feel, but by adding rye flour to the mix,
味道富有层次感 成就了他独具风格的面条
he adds a little dimension of flavor that makes the noodles his.
在我辞去梅萨烧烤的工作后 塔米和我结婚了
Tami and I got married towards the end of my Mesa Grill time.
之后我在卢特斯[法国餐厅]找到工作
And then I got a job at Lutèce.
安德烈·索纳 是位杰出的主厨
André Soltner, the chef, was just larger than life.
他的厨师领巾永远都洁白又闪亮
He was always just shiny white with his neckerchief,
戴着高高的厨师帽 指挥整个厨房♥
and his tall hat, and he could command a room.
那地方简直是太迷人了
It was such a fascinating place to be.
但之后塔米怀上了艾萨克...
But then Tami got pregnant with Isaac...
薪水却少得可怜...
and the pay was so low...
每周工资225美金
You know, take home $225 a week.
我那时想 "靠这点工资 我无法生活"
And I was like, "I mean, I can't live on that."
我想着开一家自己的餐厅...
I sort of fantasized about opening a restaurant of my own...
但我自己没底 这听起来就很困难
but I think that I was scared of how hard it sounded.
就在那时 联营饭店正在寻找
And at that time, Restaurant Associates was seeking out
餐厅和咖啡店的厨师和主厨
restaurant cooks and chefs to run their cafeterias and cafes.
尽管这既不神气也不激动人心 但稳定
It wasn't glamorous or exciting, but it was safe.
我感觉这就是今后要走的路
It was sort of the path I ended up taking.
但是 在艾萨克两岁半的时候...
But then, when Isaac was two and a half...
我妻子怀上了我们的第二个孩子...
my wife was pregnant with our second child...
一天 塔米从一场商品展销会上回家
and then Tami came home from a trade show,
有点... 着凉了 她感觉不是很好
with a... with a cold, and she didn't feel well,
到了周二她病倒了 周五晚上陷入昏迷
and she got sick on a Tuesday, and by Friday night she was in a coma,
周... 周六人就走了
and she died on... on a Saturday.
之后我们才知道 她是中毒性休克
And she had, what we know much later, toxic shock.
这... 一切发生地太突然了 我觉得我都快过去了
And... and all of a sudden, I found myself sort of, you know,
还有一个两岁的孩子 生活相当不容易
with a two year old and, you know, a really very different life.
我还记得从医院回来
I remember coming home from the hospital
陪艾萨克入睡
and, you know, sort of falling asleep with Isaac,
深夜里一个人痛哭 想着我的生活到底会变成什么样
crying and just thinking about, like, what my life was gonna become.
我不能... 现如今 这么多年过去了
I can't... To this day, so many years later,
提起这事还是很伤心
I am still heartsick.
真的... 真的太可怜了
It was so... It was so sad,
幸好我们有一个融洽亲密的大家庭 大家都在这
but we're a good close family, and we were right there.
我们相距一个半或两个街区
We lived a block and a half or two blocks away,
所以我们能够帮他和艾萨克
so we were able to help him with Isaac,
能经常去看看他
and we were able to see him a lot.
头几个月 我整个人都不受控制
For the first couple of months, I mean, I was really out of it.
我和家人在一起 大家伙一起聊天
I would sit with my whole family, and we would all be talking,
就一瞬间 我会立马睡着
and all of a sudden, I would just sort of fall asleep.
我会突然情绪失控
I was just overwhelmed with emotion.
总有一些不走心的安慰 你懂的
There's all those pat expressions. You know,
"一切都会好起来的"或是
"You know, everything's gonna be okay," or,
"你能挺过去" 或"坚强点" 或...
"You'll soldier through," or, "Be strong," or whatever, and...
可是 有时一些人告诉你要坚强...
But, you know, sometimes someone telling you to be strong...
听上去像是 "去你♥妈♥的♥ 伙计 我他妈才不觉得自己有多坚强 "
It's like, "Go fuck yourself, man. I don't feel fucking strong."
我的意思是... 就像 硬抗
I mean... I'm just, like, holding on.
我的身份就是我和艾萨克 那就是我
My identity was me and Isaac. That was my identity.
我和我的孩子 像是我们要一起对抗全世界
Me and my guy. It was, sort of, us against the world.
他会哭着要他的妈妈
He would cry for his mother,
可她不在这 我们只能一起抱头痛哭
and she wasn't there, and so we would both cry.
直到哭累了
You know, until we stopped crying.
那就是我的生活
That was my life.
好了 辣椒
All right, spicy.
可以了
Okay.
齐活 上肋骨
All right, ribs to go.
鲜是一种可以被感知的味道
Umami is a flavor that's been understood
在日料发展中历史悠久
and sought out in Japanese cooking for a long time.
世界上许多久负盛名的美味佳肴都是因为鲜
Most of the great savory foods of the world are full of it.
垂涎欲滴
Satisfaction.
大快朵颐
And satiation.
饱腹之感就是鲜带给你的
Feeling like you've gotten your fill is what umami delivers.
寻找鲜味
And seeking out umami
是拉面每一步制♥作♥的目的所在
is something that, like, every step of ramen making is about.
菜肴提鲜最简单的办法是加入白色的谷氨酸钠[即味精]粉末
The easiest way to add umami to a dish is to add the powdered white MSG.
但那种方法缺少提炼
But there's a lack of refinement in that approach.
所以如果你是主厨 像伊凡
So if you're a chef, like Ivan,
那你就得开始制♥作♥你自己的鲜味了
then you're gonna work to make your own umami.
在高汤中加入大量的肉
You're gonna add a lot of meat to your broths.
制♥作♥你自己的日式高汤
You might make your own dashi.
这有一堆蘑菇 鱼干...
There might be a bunch of mushrooms, dried fish...
这些食材能提升一碗拉面的鲜味
And all of these things add umami to a bowl of ramen.
鲜就像是生活中必不可少的组成部分
Umami is like a necessary component of living.
你渴望它
You crave it.
近乎情绪化
It's almost emotional.
我不能想象生活中没有它
I couldn't imagine living without it.
当我妻子去世时
When my wife died,
我失去了挚爱 失去了人生伴侣 也失去了我与日本的联♥系♥...
I lost a wife, I lost a partner, and I also lost my connection with Japan...
这对我来说很难
which was very difficult for me.
我希望艾萨克能与他的日本家人有联♥系♥
And I wanted Isaac to have a relationship with his Japanese family.
所以我决定一年至少回一次日本
So I decided I needed to go back to Japan at least once a year.
然后 在其中的一次旅行中 我遇到了真里
And so, on one of those trips, I met Mari.
我们有共同的朋友 介绍我们认识
We had a mutual friend who introduced us.
她与前夫有个孩子
She had a kid from a former relationship,
然后我们去了东京西部 吉祥寺一家景色宜人的公园
so we went to a beautiful park in Kichijoji, in, Western Tokyo.
伊凡那时剃了个寸头
アイバン その時は髪の毛坊主で こうなんだろう
怎么说呢 T恤全都扎进短裤里
Tシャツもこう中に全部ショットパンツの中に入っていて
背上背个双肩包
バックパックを背負っていて
他儿子也剃了个寸头
息子も同じ丸坊主にしていて
戴着同样款式的眼镜
同じようなめがねをかけた二人が
这给我一种很新鲜的感觉 以前从未见过这种类型的男人
ちょっと新鮮 今まで見たことのないタイプというか
她儿子 亚历克斯 完全爱上了艾萨克 我儿子
And her son, Alex, absolutely fell in love with Isaac, my son.
自他们相遇的一刻 亚历克斯就喜欢上了艾萨克
From the minute they met, Alex was so in love with Isaac.
我们在一起的时候就像一家人
一緒にみんなで家族子供
伊凡有自己的孩子 我也有孩子
アイバンも子供いるし 私も子供いて
我们四个人在一起的时候 就觉得特别安心
四人でいると すごく安心する感じ
有种很不可思议的感觉
すごく不思議な感じ
他也不是我喜欢的那种
私のタイプでもぜんぜんないから
我完全没考虑过他这种类型的人
あんまり考えてないという感じ
我可能笑得太大声了
笑い過ぎるかも
继续继续 加油
もっともっともっともっと頑張れ
我们到处瞎玩直到肚子饿了
We played around, and then we got hungry,
然后我们打算吃拉面
and we went and had a bowl of ramen
那是个蒜味熏天的豚骨拉面馆
at this super stinky garlic tonkotsu restaurant.
突然之间我的心被触动了
And I just felt this spark.
一整周我都和她待在一块儿
So that whole week, I ended up staying with her.
有种命中注定的感觉
すごい出会いというか
之后我回到家 但是脑海中浮现的都是真里的身影
And then I went home, and I couldn't stop thinking about Mari.
我就心想 "真糟糕
And I was like, "That sucks.
我已经活在伤痛中四年了
I've been fucking miserable for four years,
现在遇到了一个让我心动的女人
now I've met someone I think is kind of amazing.
唯一的阻碍是纽约和东京的距离
The only little caveat is she lives in Tokyo and I live in New York.
去他妈的
But fuck that."
十几天后
So a week or two later,
我就和上司说 "对不起
I said to my boss, I was like, I said, "I'm sorry.
我在东京有未完成的事情 我得走了"
I have some unfinished business in Tokyo. I gotta go."
我飞往日本
I flew in.
一下飞机直奔她家 见到了她家人
I went straight from the airport to her house. I met her folks.