主厨的餐桌（2015）

Tomatoes...
我们得切番茄...
We have to cut tomatoes for...
-做沙拉 -沙拉
- For the salad. Yeah. - The salad.
-还需要切... -汉堡做好了
- We need to cut... - We're done with the burgers.
要切"超甜100号♥"番茄
We have to cut sweet 100s.
丽莎著名的秘制酱汁
Liz's famous, secret sauce.
-才不出名呢 -好吧
- It's not famous. - Okay.
等书发行了就会出名的 丽莎的...秘制酱汁
Well, it will be when the book comes out. Liz's... secret sauce.
我从小到大都没想要当厨师
I didn't grow up wanting to be a chef.
我并不痴迷于食物
I wasn't obsessed with food.
想都没想过会干这一行
It was never a profession that I even considered.
我成长于50年代的谢尔曼奥克斯 洛杉矶的郊区
I grew up in the '50s in Sherman Oaks, so a suburb of Los Angeles.
那时候人们还不像现在这样全家外出就餐
It was a time where families didn't eat out the way that they do now.
去餐厅多是为了某种特殊场合
Going to a restaurant was more a special occasion.
我还记得爸爸说"我们今晚要庆祝"
I can still hear my dad saying, "You know, we're gonna celebrate tonight."
我们就会到山上的餐厅去吃饭 这可是件大事
So we would come over the hill, and it was a big build-up.
不过那个时候还没有什么名人厨师
But at that time, there were no celebrity chefs.
餐馆老板或大厨也没什么威望
Being a restaurant owner or a chef had no cachet.
我1974年上大学 在索诺玛州立大学
I entered college in 1974, at Sonoma State.
我以为自己会像父亲那样成为一名律师
I thought that I would maybe be a lawyer as my father was.
到校不久后...
Shortly after arriving...
我在学校宿舍里吃饭
I was eating at the college dormitory
我被一个帅哥迷住了
and I was very attracted by a handsome man.
他在宿舍厨房♥里负责做素食...
He ran the vegetarian program at the dormitory kitchen...
我想"我得认识一下这个帅哥"
and I thought, "Ha-ha, I gotta meet this guy."
于是我去找他 跟他说我是一个素食主义者
And so I went up to him, and I told him I was a vegetarian.
还告诉他我喜欢烹饪
I told him I love to cook
非常喜欢下厨房♥
and I would really love to cook in the kitchen.
其实我不是素食主义者 也不会做饭
I was not a vegetarian, and I didn't know how to cook.
但他雇用了我
But he hired me.
头一个月 我就发现我喜欢动手做饭
Within the first month, I realized that I loved working with my hands
也喜欢摆菜肴 拌沙拉
and putting together dishes and mixing salads
把食物摆进盘子里
and placing things on the plate.
我还记得那时想...
I remember thinking...
"我知道长大后要做什么了 我要当厨师"
"I know what I wanna do when I grow up. I wanna be a cook."
这才是我真正想做的
It really just felt right.
你们...过来看着肉丸
You guys... meatballs!
-得多加点酱汁 -我会的
- You need more sauce in here. - I'll fix it.
好吗 谢了
Okay? Thanks.
今晚你和谁一起工作
Who are you working with back here tonight?
为了肉丸酱汁 我得冲他们大吼大叫的
I just had to yell at them for their meatball sauce.
那是我最头疼的部分
You know, that is my biggest pet peeve.
-碎了还是... -不不不
- Broken, or... - No, no, no.
他们要么弄得太稀了
Either they let it reduce too much
要么又太稠 变成肉酱了
or it gets so thick it turns into meat sauce.
-太稠了是吗 -是啊
- It's too thick, is it? Okay. - Yeah, okay.
明白吗
Right?
小心身后
Behind you.
谢谢
Thanks.
在欧洲上完烹饪学校后 我回到洛杉矶
After cooking school in Europe, I came back to Los Angeles.
真棒 达利亚
So good, Dahlia!
父母带我去了迈克尔在圣莫尼卡开的餐厅
And my parents took me to Michael's restaurant in Santa Monica.
-大厨 今晚一切正常吗 -很好
- Okay, boss, how's everything tonight? - Great.
那家餐厅在洛杉矶
It was the restaurant in Los Angeles,
当时是大众瞩目的焦点
at that moment, that was getting all the attention.
乔纳森·维克斯曼是主厨
Jonathan Waxman was the chef.
我喜爱那里的菜肴
And I loved the food there.
当时我就知道 自己想去那里工作
So I knew I wanted to be there.
她是新来的吗
Is she new?
我走进厨房♥ 说要找主厨
I went into the kitchen. I asked for the chef.
嗨 初次见面 我是南茜
Hi, we haven't met yet. Nancy.
我对他说 若能在他的厨房♥工作我会很荣幸
And I told him I would be honored to work in his kitchen.
他告诉我糕点区缺人手
He let me know that he needed someone to be in the pastry department.
我不想去做糕点
I did not want to be in the pastry department,
但我把这当作一次机会
but I saw this as an opportunity,
我觉得也许假以时日
and I thought it was probably just a matter of time
我就能去烹制菜肴
before I would be at the stoves.
借过 雅各布 借过
Coming through, Jacopo. Coming through.
于是我接受了这份工作
So I took the job.
在烹饪学校学做糕点的时候
When I was learning pastries in cooking school,
他们教我 不能随意发挥
they taught me that there was no flexibility
糕点制♥作♥要求非常精确
and pastry making was so exact.
但是 在迈克尔的餐厅
But at Michael's, I realized
我意识到 有一些确定的基本原则
that there are certain basic principles,
但是 在这些界限之内 有非常多的创造空间
but within those parameters there's so much room for creativity.
这是完全的自♥由♥发挥
It was completely liberating.
从那之后 除了做糕点
After that, I couldn't think
什么别的事情我都不去想了
about anything other than making pastries.
我认为 就是那个时候 我真正第一次意识到
And I think that's when I really first recognized...
痴迷的感觉
that feeling of being obsessed.
嘿 伙计们 这是库拉特罗火腿吗
Hey, guys. Hey, is that the culatello?
-是的 -噢 让我尝尝
- Yeah. - Oh, wow. Let me try it.
-储存了多久的 -17个月
- So it's how old? - Seventeen months.
17个月
Seventeen?
有点久了
Gettin' old.
太棒了 真的很棒
Excellent. Really good.
噢 太好吃了
Oh, so good.
有一丝臭味 我喜欢的臭味
There's a little funk on there, which I like,
不过真的很美味
but this is also really delicious.
我们的上一块火腿存放了20个月
The last one we had was 20 months,
那个气味就比较重了
and that had way more funk on it.
你可以尝下蓝布鲁斯科 很成功
You can taste the Lambrusco. It comes through.
相比上块火腿 我更喜欢这块火腿
I like this one a lot better than the last one.
这一块更均衡
This one's more balanced.
我们在安缇卡柯尔特帕拉维奇纳
When we were in Antica Corte Pallavicina
和齐贝洛的时候 那里的火腿要存放27到36个月
and Zibello, those were up to 36 months and 27 months.
-嗯 -这块才17个月
- Yeah. - This one's only 17.
嗯 我觉得这个时间长度正合适
Well, I think it's a perfect age.
-好了 一会见 -好的 再见
- Okay, I'll see you later. - Okay. See you.
1982年 沃尔夫冈·帕克[美国名厨]在为膳朵餐厅开业做准备
In 1982, Wolfgang Puck was preparing to open Spago.
我那时候的男朋友是马克·皮尔
My boyfriend at the time was Mark Peel.
他之前和沃尔夫冈共事
He had worked previously with Wolfgang,
沃尔夫冈联♥系♥他让他做大厨
and Wolfgang had approached him to be the chef.
但是 当沃尔夫冈联♥系♥我对我说
But when Wolfgang contacted me and said,
"你能来膳朵餐厅负责糕点吗"
"Will you be the pastry chef at Spago?"
我非常非常不情愿
I was very, very reluctant.
我不确定自己做好了负责糕点部门的准备
I wasn't sure I was ready to run the pastry department.
但是马克说服了我 说我应该接受这份工作
But Mark convinced me that I should take this job.
所以我们离开了迈克尔的餐厅 和沃尔夫冈一起开膳朵餐厅
So we left Michael's restaurant to open up Spago with Wolfgang.
这一步彻底改变了我的人生
That step was a game changer.
我们开业后几个月
A few months after we opened,
膳朵餐厅成为了洛杉矶最流行的餐厅
Spago was the most popular restaurant in Los Angeles.
我们一晚上要接待300桌客人
We were doing 300 dinners a night.
很多人报道我们
And lots of people are writing about it.
他们把沃尔夫冈描述为主厨
They write about Wolfgang as the chef,
而把我描述为糕点主厨
and they write about me as the pastry chef.
我在点心制♥作♥方面变得自信起来
I was becoming confident in my dessert making.
但是对马克来说就难得多了
It was more difficult for
因为他处在沃尔夫冈盛名的阴影之下
Mark because he was in Wolfgang's shadow,
所以 没有获得什么关注
and so, was getting no attention.
我在膳朵餐厅的其中一项工作是配合沃尔夫冈做面包
One of my jobs at Spago was to help Wolfgang make bread.
那时候 大家都用包装好的混装面粉
At that time everybody was using a packaged mix.
你只需要加水再烘焙就行
All you had to do was add water and bake it.
人们都喜欢这种面粉 但是这种过程中有一些东西
People loved it, but there was just something about that process.
这不是我想要的
It wasn't me.
这是今天的
These are from today.
我们得看看 看看有什么你喜欢的
We gotta take a look at 'em and see what you like.
-好 等等 看看... -你想从哪样开始
- Okay, wait, look at... - What do you wanna start with?
有含姜的枫蜜 也有不含姜的枫蜜
So there's maple with ginger and no ginger.
-就先试这个 -好 我试下这个
- So let's start there. - Okay, let's try those.
呀 这太...啊 我不喜欢 太水糟糟的了