侯斯顿（2021）

没错 那个系列是个灾难 我明白
Exactly. The collection was a disaster, and I knew it.
所以我决定了把一切都抛开
So I decided to throw it all away.
我离开波道夫·古德曼百货 基本上毁了我的人生
I left Bergdorf's and destroyed my life, basically.
不不不 你不能这么想
No. No, you can't think of it like that.
你没有抛掉任何东西
You didn't throw anything away.
你只是送给了自己一份大礼
You just gave yourself an enormous gift.
你离开了过去你所了解的一切 这意味着
You left everything you knew behind, which means
你可以接收新的灵感
you are open to inspiration.
灵感会找到你的
And inspiration is going to find you.
你知道吗
You know what?
杰姬戴的那顶平顶小圆帽
That pillbox hat that Jackie wore?
那就是你的朱迪·嘉兰
That is your Judy Garland.
你和我都活在某些事物的阴影里
You and me are living under the shadow of something,
而我们俩都在尝试做同样的事
and we're both trying to do the same thing.
我们在试图走出阴影
We're walking away.
说着 "不 我要自己认真发展"
Saying, "No. I wanna be taken seriously on my own."
我...
I'm--
我...
I...
我不想只做朱迪·嘉兰的女儿
I don't wanna be just Judy Garland's daughter.
就好像你不想只是做杰姬·O的制帽匠
Like you don't wanna just be Jackie O's hatmaker.
那你为什么打扮得像个小女孩
Why are you dressing like a little girl?
看到了吗 没错 我为什么这么做
Okay, see? Exactly. Why do I do that?
确实很可爱 但我不认为这是你
I mean, it's cute, sure, but it's not you. I don't think.
你是个女人 你应该穿得像个女人
You're a woman. You should be dressed like one.
那我想你恰好是能帮我的那个人
And I suppose you're just the fella to help.
我想是的
Yes, I think I am.
我们把胸罩和内♥裤♥脱掉
Let's lose the bra and panties.
侯斯顿 你是在调戏我吗
Halston, are you getting fresh with me?
一点也不
Hardly.
拿着这个 这是你挂脖的地方
Now, hold this. That's your neck there.
现在...
Now...
准备好了吗
Ready?
好了
There, now.
这就是侯斯顿的女装
That's a Halston.
我的天呐
Oh my God!
侯斯顿 你是个天才
Oh! Halston, you're a genius.
天呐
Oh my.
这个地方会成为你的白色画布
This place will be your blank canvas.
三楼是缝纫室
Third floor is the sewing room.
最先进的设备 就像巴黎的巴黎世家
All state of the art like Balenciaga in Paris.
这间会做成酒吧
And this will be the lounge.
这里会是最后准备造型的美发沙龙
And in here will be the salon where it's all really gonna happen.
我想创造一种新的体验
I wanna create a new kind of experience.
我希望女士们来到这里
I want women to come here
能感觉到她们被传送到一个不同的世界
and feel like they've been transported to a different world.
你想要什么样的设计呢
What sort of design are you picturing?
侯斯顿定制 富有 质地 格调
Well, you know, Halston, rich, textural, cool.
就像上东区的香格里拉
Like Shangri-La on the Upper East Side.
好吧 侯斯顿 我们都认识多久了
Okay. Halston, how long have we known one another?
我把你看作家人一样
I love you like family.
但你所描述的装♥修♥要花很多钱
But what you're describing costs money,
我恰好知道你身无分文
and I happen to know you don't got any.
才不是 才不是
Not true! Not true.
所有人里 你是唯一能做这个的
In all of humanity, you're the only one who can do this.
你设计的歌♥剧俱乐部...
What you did with the Opera Club at the Met...
那个花费很大
That cost a zillion dollars.
你是唯一能办到的
You're the only one who can do it.
你让基韦斯特变得时尚 安吉洛
You made fucking Key West fashionable, Angelo.
侯斯顿 你请不起我的
Halston, you can't afford me.
你不能按成♥本♥价♥做吗
Well, can't you do it at cost?
你根本没有在听
It's like your ears don't work.
听着 我在给你机会
Look, I'm giving you the opportunity
让纽约上流社会的精英
to have the cream of New York society
穿过这扇门 然后看着这个地方
coming through these doors and looking at this place going,
"太美了 谁设计的"
"Oh, it's spectacular. Who designed it?"
上帝为证
God as my witness,
那绝对比歌♥剧俱乐部付给你的报酬更加值得
that's worth more than whatever the Opera Club paid you.
-你是真心的吗 -我骗过你吗
- Do you mean that? - Have I ever lied to you?
-好吧 -我的英雄
- Okay. - Oh, my hero. My hero!
-别闹了 -所以 你觉得怎么样
- Knock it off. - So, what do you think?
有人心情很好
Someone's in a good mood.
我一直以来的梦想
It's always been my dream
就是拥有一个在隔层自带展厅的设计室
to have a showroom with a workshop on another floor.
我找到了 租了下来
And I found it, and I rented it.
-在哪 -68街和麦迪逊大道
- Where? - 68th and Madison.
你就等着看吧 真的要等等 现在一团乱
Wait till you see it. Literally wait to see it. It's a mess.
我找到了我的团队 每一个怪人们
And I found my team. Merry misfits, each and every one of them.
乔·尤拉是我的设计插画师 他非常卓越
Joe Eula's gonna be my illustrator. He's fantastic.
他替《时尚》 纪梵希 香奈儿画插画
He drew collections for Vogue, for Givenchy, for Coco Chanel.
时髦难以捕捉 飘渺不定 但他能做到
Chic is hard to capture. It's elusive, but he can do it.
你为什么需要插画师
Why do you need an illustrator?
我想看到整个系列作品摆在我眼前
I want to see a whole collection laid out in front of me.
"去掉那个 领口更低"
"Get rid of that. Lower that neckline."
设计师和插画师
It's a very intimate relationship
之间的关系非常亲密
between a designer and his illustrator.
乔更像是我的第二个大脑
Joe's more of like a second brain,
但你别打断我说话
but stop breaking my train of thought.
-抱歉 -艾尔莎·佩雷蒂
- Sorry. - Elsa Peretti.
她是我的试衣模特 意大利人
She's gonna be my fit model. She's Italian.
家里富裕 但她抛弃了一切
Comes from money, but she's left all that behind.
她美极了 让你目不转睛
She's stunning. You can't take your eyes off her.
有些模特只是穿衣服
Some models just wear clothes
艾尔莎 她让衣服成为自己的一部分
Elsa, she makes them her own.
我以为丽莎是你的缪斯
I thought Liza was your muse?
缪斯永远不嫌多
Well, you can't have too many muses.
别嫉妒 埃德
Don't be jealous, Ed.
还有这个小孩 舒马赫
Then there's this kid, Schumacher.
他为烟店布置橱窗
He does the windows at Paraphernalia.
他会给我带来年轻人的态度
He'll bring me that young attitude.
-不好意思 这是你做的吗 -对
- Excuse me. Did you do this? - Yes.
-是你做的吗 -对 我...
- Did you do this? - Yes. I...
队员各就各位
The team's all in place.
最后我只需要找到资金
Last thing I need to do is find the money.
最后 我还以为这是你第一件要做的事
The last thing? I'd have thought that's the first thing you had to do.
我只需要小小的一百万美金
I just need a teensy-weensy million dollars.
一百万
A million dollars?
我本来计划去找以前我在
The idea was to go to the rich husbands
波道夫百货客户的有钱丈夫 问他们要钱
of my old clients at Bergdorf's and ask them.
范德比尔特家族为美国有名的铁路大亨
恩格哈德家族坐拥国际矿业和金属企业集团
亚瑟·范德比尔特 查尔斯·恩格哈德
Arthur Vanderbilt, Charles Engelhard,
罗斯柴尔德家族是享誉欧洲乃至世界的金融家族
罗斯柴尔德男爵
Baron de Rothschild.
那进行的如何了
And how did that work out?
反正他们没有拒绝
Well, they didn't say no.
总之 我不担心
Anyway, I'm not worried.
明天我要见艾丝特尔·马什
Tomorrow I have a meeting with Estelle Marsh.
她是得州石油大亨的妻子
She's the wife of a Texas oil baron.
别这么看着我 我都想好了
Don't look at me like that. I've got this sewn up.
马什太太 上一次有人这么问你是什么时候
Mrs. Marsh, when was the last time anyone asked you,
真正的问你
really asked you
你需要什么
what you need?
当我在波道夫百货时 我会让顾客坐在椅子上
When I was at Bergdorf's, I'd have my ladies sit in my chair,
问她们 "告诉我你的烦恼
and I'd say, "Tell me your troubles.
你在为什么心烦 你需要什么"
What's bothering you? What do you need?"
微不足道的问题
Such a small question
却几乎肯定会得到这样的答案
which would almost without fail be met with, well,
首先是一点忧伤
at first, a little sorrow.
因为她们的生活中几乎没有人 尤其是男人
Because so few people in their lives, especially the men,
想过要问她们这种问题
ever thought to ask them that.
用我的前夫的话说就是
The way my ex-husband used to put it was,
"你♥他♥妈♥想要什么"