主厨的餐桌（2015）

我还记得小时候的
I have a memory as a child
一列蒸汽火车 大吉岭快车
of a steam train, the Darjeeling Express,
穿过喜马拉雅山脚
that runs through the foothills of the Himalayas.
那列车发出呼哧呼哧的轰鸣
It makes all this huffing and puffing noise.
火车开到山上高处
As it went up higher into the mountains,
就离开了加尔各答的炎热和令人难受的潮湿
you leave the heat and absolute crazy humidity of Calcutta.
空气变得清新凉爽...
The relief of the air being so cool...
那感觉棒极了
Absolutely spectacular.
我记得 我一个小孩 把头探出窗外
I remember, as a child, putting my head out of the window.
呼喊着自己的名字
I would call my name out,
整个山里都回荡着我的名字
and the entire mountain would echo my name back to me.
那是我自♥由♥ 解放的时刻
That was my moment of freedom, of liberation.
我控制了自己的人生去向
I controlled where my life was going.
我知道 有一天 我将会为世人所知
I knew, one day, everybody would know my name.
伦敦的印度餐饮业
The Indian dining scene in London
在世界上独具特色
is like no other anywhere else in the world.
英国人对印度食物有着难以置信的 永无止境的热爱
The British have this incredible and insatiable affection for Indian food.
因此 这里有数千家各种档次的
As a result, there are thousands of Indian restaurants
印度餐厅
at all different levels.
但那并不意味着没有空间容纳任何新式餐饮
But that doesn't mean there isn't space for anything new.
"大吉岭快车"餐厅几乎挑战了一切
Darjeeling Express challenges pretty much every preconceived notion
对传统印度餐馆的成见
that people have of traditional Indian restaurants.
准备好上菜了吗
Are we ready to serve?
嗯 米饭是热的
Unh huh. The rice is hot.
行 好 是
Okay, fine, yeah.
阿诗玛探索着整个范围内的各种因素
Asma explores the entire gamut of various different influences.
她的烹饪受到下至加尔各答街头小吃
Her cuisine ranges from Calcutta street food
上至来自她的家庭的宫廷菜式的影响
to the royal court influence that comes from her family.
而更妙的是 这些并非强拼硬凑
What's really beautiful is that it is not put together in a formulaic way.
而是在表达 "此即吾所爱
It is about saying, "This is the stuff that I really love.
愿与诸君同飨"
These are the dishes and this is the menu that I want everybody to try."
我认为这很美好
And I think that is a beautiful thing.
大多数印度奶酪都是用大量奶油制成
Most paneers are made with lots of cream,
但是 我妈妈以前总是这样做 所以...
but my mother used to always make it like this, so...
在孟加拉 我们用很多孜然粉 所以有些不同
In Bengal, we use tons and tons of kalonji, so it's a bit unusual.
来到大吉岭快车
When you go to Darjeeling Express,
阿诗玛会介绍每道菜的来历
Asma will tell you the history of every dish
每道菜与她的家庭或印度历史的联♥系♥
and how it relates to perhaps her family or the historical side of India,
以及每道菜中
but also the emotional connection
她与厨师对菜肴
that she and the people who cook in her kitchen
倾注的情感
have with the food that she makes.
阿诗玛·汗组建了这个伟大的厨房♥团队
Asma Khan assembled this amazing kitchen,
一个全女性的厨房♥团队
a kitchen entirely staffed by women.
这些妇女此前从未和她合作过
Women who had, previous to working with her,
也从未在专业厨房♥里工作过
never worked in a professional kitchen before.
我不知道谁会那么做 但我遇到了阿诗玛
I don't know who would do that, but then I met Asma,
就明白谁会那么做了
and I realized who would do that.
两碗糙米饭 有点单调吧
Two brown rice? Isn't that a bit boring?
我不是在批评什么 只是...
I'm not saying anything, but just...
只是我们是在假装努力变得健康
We're pretending to try to be healthy, though.
-这得配白饭 -好
- This you should have with white rice. - Okay.
享受生活 亲爱的
Enjoy life, my dear.
对
Yeah.
她充满激♥情♥ 富有灵感 鼓舞人心
She's incredibly passionate, inspired and inspirational.
就算阿诗玛告诉我 树是粉色的 是倒着长的
Asma could tell me trees were pink and planted upside down,
我可能也会相信
and I'd probably believe anything Asma told me,
因为她太有魅力了
because she is so charming.
请不要客气 别等别人吃
Please don't be polite. Don't wait for everyone else to eat.
还在等什么呢
And why are you waiting?
等我过来递盘子吗
For me to come and pass the plate?
我给你拿酸辣酱
I'll get you your chutney.
我觉得世界能容得下所有人
I think the world is big enough for everybody.
人就是人
People are people.
在我的厨房♥或餐厅里 人与人没有分别
There are no divisions in my kitchen or in my restaurant.
我们总说 "顾客就是上帝"
We always say, "The guest is an incarnation of God."
我希望大家都能感觉到自己的价值
I want people to feel that they are valued.
我们会让他们觉得自己受到了走亲访友般的款待
They will be looked after as if they've gone to a relative's house.
我做的是家里的菜 做的是我的家人吃的菜
I'm cooking food from my home, from meals I've had in my family.
我告诉他们这些菜的故事
I tell them the stories of the dishes.
我拉着他们的手与他们一起分享
I'm taking their hand and taking them along.
我的目标 是要让客人觉得自己被拥抱着
My aim is for you to leave feeling like someone had embraced you.
食物本该给人如此感觉
That's how food should be.
看到人们吃我做的菜时候的眼神 我很快乐
I get happiness from seeing people's eyes when they eat the food I've cooked.
那种你做的菜能够
That feeling, when you can light up someone's soul
照亮别人灵魂的感觉
with something you prepared,
那是一种殊荣
that is a privilege and an honor.
我开始做饭时
When I started cooking,
希望人们吃到的东西能让他们想起
I wanted people to have something that reminded them
非常非常激动人心的快乐时光
of really, really exciting, happy times.
盛大的庆典 大型的家族婚礼
Big celebrations, big family weddings.
第一次吃印度香饭的感觉 你会永生难忘
You never forget your first biryani.
我做的印度香饭 叫做文火饭
The biryani that I make is called the dum biryani,
基本上就是蒸出来的
and dum is basically steam.
整个过程要把食材层层堆叠
The whole process is layering.
最下面是肉
At the very bottom, the meat,
然后香料 加了藏红花的牛奶
spices, saffron-infused milk.
再把土豆放上去
Potatoes go on top.
最后米放在土豆上
The rice goes above the potatoes.
然后用面团密封
And we seal it with dough.
然后就看不见了
And it's gone. You cannot see it.
你不知道里面在发生什么
You don't know what's happening.
让那锅印度香饭成功 靠的就是信念
What holds that biryani together is faith.
印度香饭可能出现很多岔子
So many things can go wrong with your biryani.
米的质量 米的年份
Changes with the quality of rice, the age of rice,
香料入味的时间都会产生影响
the amount of time it's had in the spicing.
就算有廿五载的烹饪经历
Even with 25 years of cooking professionally,
我心里还是七上八下的
I get butterflies in my stomach.
准备呈上的时候
When we're ready to serve,
我们会拌一下
we mix it.
那时候 就会冒出一股美妙的香气
That's when this amazing, beautiful aroma comes up.
你能闻到历史 闻到香料贸易
You smell the history, the spice trade.
米饭上桌的时候 每一粒都很完美
And when the rice is served, every grain is perfect.
阿诗玛做的很多事 都是为了给人们提供很多食物
A lot of things that Asma does is about feeding people lots of food,
而印度香饭就是这样的终极料理
and a biryani is that ultimate dish.
是她慷慨个性的最好表达
It is an expression of her generosity.
也就是为什么阿诗玛的印度香饭如此特别
That is what makes Asma's biryani quite special.
如果你只能在大吉岭快餐吃一种食物
If you had to eat one thing at Darjeeling Express,
在我心里 那就只能是印度香饭了
in my mind, it's got to be the biryani.
-一个本地芒果... -是普通芒果吗
- A desi mango... - Is a generic mango?
还是什么特殊的品种
Or is it actually a variety?
是本地土生土长的芒果
It is the original mango of this area,
但是 大益利品种不是特别受欢迎
but, you see, Dasheri is not very popular.
-也卖♥♥不到远的地方去 -这样啊
- It doesn't travel well. - Hmm.
几百年前 我父亲的家族是游牧的战士
Centuries ago, my father's family were nomadic warriors.
我们会四处奔波 谁出得起钱就为谁而战
We would go in and fight with whoever could afford us.
最后 我们离开了沙漠 在印度定居
Eventually, we left the desert and settled down in India.
我们建了果园 慢慢扎根下来
We acquired orchards, we grew roots.
我记得你小时候 经常被放在地上
I remember you, as a child, you used to be put on the floor,
-然后大人会给你一把种子 -我听过这个故事
- and you were just given the seed. - I've heard this story.
然后啊呜啊呜 你会把种子吃掉
And chomp, chomp, chomp, you used to eat it.
你之前就坐在那里看我吃 没错
And you used to sit and watch me eat it, yeah.
我很小的时候 我们总是跟父亲
When I was very young, the mango orchard was always the place
一起去芒果园
we would go to with my father.
我父亲很喜欢说的就是 在19世纪
My father loves to talk about the fact that, in the 19th century,
在大英展销会上
at the Great British Exhibition,
我们家的芒果被认定为世界上最好的芒果
the family mangoes were declared as the best mango in the world.
这片土地上种了三种不同的芒果
The same soil has three varieties of mangos.
伦格拉 大益利 昌萨这三种
Yeah, the Langra and the Dasheri and the Chaunsa.
-伦格拉最好吃 -我不同意 我觉得昌萨更好吃
- Langra is the best. - I disagree. I prefer the Chaunsa.
关于这个 我们永远都不会达成一致的
On this, we'll forever, forever disagree.