主厨的餐桌（2015）

I just let that take me with it.
我知道 我走在了正确的大道上
I knew that I was on the right path.
我们明天就要做这个了
Um, we're gonna do this tomorrow,
得弄清楚我们要用鹌鹑来做什么
and we need to figure out what we're gonna do with quail,
因为整个的都得改
'cause that whole thing has to change.
-对的 -我们能直接做油炸的吗
- Yeah. - Should we just fry it?
-油炸鹌鹑吗 -糖浆炸鹌鹑
- Fried quail? - Fried quail with molasses,
-用黑蜜糖 -黄瓜配酱会很棒
- blackstrap molasses. - Sauce would be nice with cucumber.
所有的胡椒都在那
We have all those peppers up there.
我们有很多胡椒 我知道肉丸里放了胡椒粉
We have so many peppers, and I know peppers are in the meatballs,
-但我们可以做一道... -胡椒开胃小菜或者...
- but we can do like a... - Pepper relish or...
对 我们可以做盐渍胡椒或者别的什么 你懂的吧
Yeah, we could do pickled peppers or something, you know?
当我一开始考虑这个餐厅的时候
When I initially came down to think about this restaurant,
我花了几个月的时间来给我们的突破性菜单做规划
I had a few months to figure out what was gonna be our breakout menu.
如果我们需要加一点酸...
Then if we need a little acid...
在这之前 我都还像个副厨
Up until that point, I worked as a sous chef,
模仿这位富有创造力的天才的需求和欲望
emulating the wants and desires of this creative genius.
然后突然间
And then all of a sudden,
我有了一个展示真我的机会
I have an opportunity to really express myself.
我开始去思考 我到底是个什么样的厨师
I started thinking about, what kind of chef was I?
我是个只需要看一眼食材
Was I the chef that just kinda looked at an ingredient,
就能灵光一现做出美味珍馐的厨师吗
and all of a sudden, I made this crazy dish out of it?
又或者说我是那种用旧食谱
Or was I a kind of chef that took older recipes
做旧式菜肴的厨师吗 我到底是个什么样的厨师
and reinterpret them? What kind of chef am I?
当玛莎玛开始去开♥发♥她的第一份菜单时
When Mashama started to develop her first menu,
她翻了一本又一本的书去搜寻灵感
she read book after book and sought inspiration.
一旦有机会去别的地方旅行 她都会去
Any moment she could get to travel somewhere, she would go.
玛莎玛会带着一道菜来到我面前 对我说"尝尝看"
Mashama would come to me with a dish and she would say, "Taste this."
然后我就会去品尝
And I would taste it.
她会问我"你觉得怎么样" 我会告诉她我的感受
And she'd go, "What do you think?" And I would tell her.
接着她就会回到厨房♥里继续改进
And she would go back into the kitchen.
对于她来说 把菜做对做好真的很重要
It was really important to her to do it right and do it well.
定下菜单之后我很焦虑
After I wrote the menu, I was very nervous,
但我发了第一份菜单的复印件给加布里埃尔
but I sent a copy of the first menu to Gabrielle.
她看了一眼然后说 "这些食物到处都有
She looked at it and she was like, "This food is all over the place.
我不知道它在向我传达什么
I don't know what this menu is telling me.
它没有什么来历"
It's not really telling me a story."
这让玛莎玛深刻地意识到 这是一项非常艰巨的任务
It really hit Mashama hard how difficult the undertaking was.
缺失了某样东西而 我不确定是什么
Something was missing and I wasn't sure what it was.
我感觉我得研究一下我到底是谁 我想表达什么
I felt that I need to learn about who I am and what I had to say.
回到萨凡纳的时候 我非常怀念过去
When I returned to Savannah, I was super nostalgic.
我想 我可以从离开的地方继续
I thought I could almost pick up where I left off,
但是 成年以后 我对这个城市一无所知
but I did not know this city at all through adult eyes.
我很孤独 在这儿没有朋友
I was on my own. I had no friends here.
我很快地意识到 我是个局外人
I realized very quickly that I was an outsider.
-给你的 女士 -谢谢
- Here you go, ma'am. - Thank you.
有一天 我来到了这个叫五月花的餐厅
One day, I went to this place called the Mayflower.
我点了芥末螃蟹 上来的每一道菜都放过调味料
And I order deviled crabs, and every meal comes with a dressing.
我尝了一下...
I take one taste of it...
有种回到了祖母厨房♥里的感觉
and I'm back in my grandmother's kitchen.
我这才惊喜地醒悟 我一生都在吃这样的食物...
And I have this a-ha moment that I've been eating this way all my life...
而我却深在庐山不自知
and that I wasn't aware
真的有这样的餐厅 在做那些我成长时吃的菜肴
that there was actually restaurants built around the food that I grew up on.
我想 有些东西随着那个小女孩儿 在十一岁搬到纽约时
I think that there's something that I buried with that little girl
被一起埋藏起来了
that moved to New York City when she was 11.
我想在南方重新认识我自己
I wanted to reacquaint myself with the South.
我开始去阅读古老的食谱
I started reading old cookbooks
研究这个城市最早的非裔美籍厨师
to learn about the first African-American chefs in this country.
在这个环境里我的前辈们
Who was cooking before me in this environment,
我可以从他们身上学到什么
and what can I learn from them?
谢谢你 海耶斯先生
Thank you, Mr. Hayes.
我开始向人们介绍我自己 并研究这里的美食文化
I started introducing myself to people and learning about the food culture here.
-你怎么知道西瓜熟没熟 -我用手掌拍
- How do you know a watermelon is ready? - I slap mine.
-怎么判断 -我听声音
- And what you looking for? - I'm listening for the sound.
我真想在不同的气候
I really wanted to educate myself
不同的风土人情 不同的南方食材之中训练自己
on different climates, different terroir, different Southern ingredients.
对 你就只是...
Yeah, so you just...
嘿 看看你
Hey, look at you.
-是啊 -我不信你
- Yeah. - I don't believe you.
现在 你知道我觉得这一切有多疯狂吗
Now, you know what I think is amazing about this whole thing is?
就像我们穿梭到了过去
Like, we're walking back into time
这就是我们所做的 秋葵
and this is what we did. Okra.
-来自西非的 -是的
- It's West African. - Yeah.
你就在这里 去哪儿 奥兰多吗
You'll be here. Where you going? Orlando?
长得真好
That's gonna be really nice.
谢谢你 女士 你很厉害
Thank you, lady. You are tough.
和这里的农民们进行坦诚的对话
Having this open dialogue with these farmers
让我真实地感受到自己处身何处
gave me a true sense of where I was.
-你想怎么做它们 -青玉米粒煮利马豆
- How do you like to cook them? - Succotash.
对的 那是我的最爱 青玉米粒煮利马豆
Yeah, that's my favorite, succotash.
青玉米粒煮利马豆 对的
Succotash! Oh, yes.
-那是我的最爱 -你可以闻到那种香味
- That's my favorite. - You can smell it.
一英里外的路上都能闻到它
You can smell it a mile down the road.
我有得忙活了 是吧
I got some work to do, huh?
-是啊 -是啊
- Mmm-hmm. - Mmm-hmm.
-你知道吗 有些... -这些蛮不错的
- You know, some of those... - These are pretty!
是啊
Yeah.
这些真的不错 真棒
These are pretty. These are awesome.
-非常好 -的确
- Those are the best. - Yeah, these are good.
随着我逐步了解佐治亚州
As I've started to learn about Georgia,
我才意识到 这里的传统很丰富
I realized that the tradition here is so rich.
应该就在这附近
Should be close.
以前我甚至没留意到
I wasn't even aware of it.
就在这儿
Oh, it's right there.
沿海的那些岛屿
These border islands along the coast,
以前是一片没有人愿意居住的区域
this was an area that no one wanted to live.
那里潮湿闷热 蚊虫又多
It's humid and buggy and hot.
废除奴隶制后
Right after slavery,
许多非裔美国人就住到这些岛上
a lot of African Americans lived on these islands.
他们学会了种地
And they learned how to cultivate the land.
看看这笨蛋
Look at that sucker.
他们在这里捕鱼 捕蟹 养牡蛎
They were fishing and crabbing and oyster farming.
看看
Okay.
再过4个月就行了
Four more months, they'll be ready.
以前我不知道黑人吃牡蛎
I didn't know black people ate oysters,
其实他们不仅吃牡蛎 还以养牡蛎为生
and not only do they eat oysters, they made a living off of oysters.
年复一年 历经所有这些艰难困苦
Years and years later, throughout all these hardships,
世世代代在这片水域劳作的人们
the people who have been working the waters for generations
一直保持着这些传统
are keeping these traditions alive.
面对这样的历史 令人不禁感到谦卑
You can't help to be humbled by that kind of history.
许多南方美食都是由那些
So much of Southern food has been forged
非洲奴隶及其后代所创造
from people who came from Africa and their descendants.
他们身缚枷锁来到这里
People were brought here in chains,
离开他们所爱的人 放弃他们的语言和生活
ripped apart from their loved ones, their language, their lives,
被迫来此建设这个地方 却毫无发言权
and made to forge a country without any say in the matter.
由于这些暴行
Because of those atrocities,
许多人离开这里 去创造更美好的生活
so many people moved away to forge something better.
离开家乡多年后
After so much time away,
玛莎玛有机会回到南方
Mashama had this openness to being back in the South
了解更多南方美食的故事
and learning more about the story of Southern food.
我完全沉浸在这些
I was soaking in all that heritage
传统与知识中
and all that knowledge,
一阵悲伤油然而生
and there's a sadness that comes with that.
但是 也感到无比自豪...
But it's also this great sense of pride...
因为 看到了生存的美好...
because you look at the beauty of survival...
希望的果实
the fruitfulness of hope.
让人感受到 我们的文化如此坚韧
You realize how resilient your culture is.
了解这里的历史如此振奋人心
Learning about history in this area was so empowering.
我逐渐明白我想烹饪怎样的食物
I started to see where I wanted to go with the food.
我开始重拾信心
That confidence started to reawaken.
我成为了一位