主厨的餐桌（2015）

我今年39岁
I'm 39 years old,
想起来都觉得疯狂 在如此长的时间里
and it's crazy to think that for this long,
我把一切都奉献给了厨房♥
all I've done is work in a kitchen.
我所做的一切 都是专注于成为一名伟大的厨师
All I've done is focus on being a great chef.
这条路十分漫长
That's a long road.
沿途...也有着有许多的艰难险阻
And that's... a lot of damage along the way.
如果我没有沉浸在那种工作狂的状态里
And to be the chef that I am today wouldn't have happened
我绝对不会成为今天这个出色的主厨
if I hadn't immersed myself in that level of workaholism.
但是...
But...
这差点杀了我
it nearly killed me.
是真正意义上的...差点就没命了
It literally... almost killed me.
南方长♥期♥处于一种不安全 被包围的状态下
The South has long been a beleaguered place, an insecure place.
是一片犯罪肆虐的土地
It's a place wracked by guilt.
这些不安全感是由我们这段奇特而悲惨的历史造成的
And those insecurities are informed by our peculiar and tragic-ass history.
所以 长久以来
And so, for the longest time,
南方人并没有意识到我们饮食文化的重要性
Southerners didn't recognize the import of our food culture.
我们掩盖真♥相♥ 欺骗大众
We swept the knowledge under the rug. We swept the people under the rug.
肖恩·布洛克曾经说过
What Sean Brock did was say,
"这里的人和物都是宝贵的财富"
"The products and people of this place are of deep value,"
所以 "这是人们可能会理解的最重要的美国菜"
and that, "this is the most important American cuisine one might interpret."
这个说法很大胆
That was bold.
肖恩是我见过的最痴迷的人之一
Sean is one of the most obsessive people I've ever met.
不仅仅是车 音乐 还有民间艺术 他都很痴迷
He's obsessive about cars, music, folk art. He's all in.
肖恩不仅是把事情做好 他会做到极致
Sean is 100%. 150%.
他一旦喜欢一件事 就会痴迷进去
If he's into it, it's an obsession.
他做的食物背后都隐藏着故事
So much of Sean's food is story.
无论是他的外婆和她的玉米面包
Whether it's his grandmother and her cornbread,
还是在非洲寻找秋葵的起源...
or seeking the origin of okra in Africa...
都可以成为他烹饪的灵感
it all has roads that lead back to cooking.
他在追溯南方饮食的根源
He's retracing the roots of Southern food:
印第安土著居民的影响
the Native American influence,
法国人的影响 以及西非的影响
the French influence and the West African influence,
因为他想讲述南方饮食的真实故事
because he wants to tell the true story of Southern food.
肖恩在查尔斯顿有两家旗舰餐厅
Sean has two flagship restaurants in Charleston:
第一家 "麦克雷迪" 是一家高档的沙龙餐厅
one, McCrady's, which is this kind of elegant salon,
这是个奢侈的地方
this place of luxury,
厨师会引领你走向魔毯之旅
where you trust the chef to go on this magic carpet ride.
第二家餐厅
His second restaurant,
"哈斯克" 是绝对的 百分百的 正宗南方风格
Husk, is resolutely, unimpeachably, unapologetically Southern.
炸猪耳朵 去壳的豆子 并不十分讲究
It's fried pig ears. It's shucky beans. And it is not fussy.
这加餐厅会让我想起他外婆的桌子
It is a place that harkens back to his grandma's table.
肖恩可以这会全身心地投入到制♥作♥鹌鹑肉丸之中
Sean can devote himself to doing ballotines of quail in one moment,
然后转眼就全身心投入地去制♥作♥最好的鸡和饺子
and devote himself to making the best damn chicken and dumplings in another moment.
也许这就是天才的其中一个定义吧
And that's one definition of genius,
可以同时在脑子里保留两个看似相反的想法
to hold two seemingly opposing ideas in your head at the same time.
那就是他大显身手的时刻
That's what his cooking shows.
但是 为了更好地了解肖恩 你必须回到他外婆的厨房♥
But to understand Sean, you have to go back to his grandmother's kitchen.
你必须回到弗吉尼亚的煤田里
You've gotta go back to the coalfields of Virginia.
关于南方饮食 多数人都有这样的观点
Most people have this idea of what Southern food is:
不健康 油腻 以及高热量
being unhealthy, and greasy and calorie-heavy.
但是 南方饮食远不止这些
But it's so much more than that.
南方饮食有着绝妙的食材
It's amazing ingredients.
独一无二的食材
Unique ingredients.
它是植物和豆类的特定品种
It's specific varietals of plants and beans,
用古老的方法腌制
the preserves and the old traditions.
把不起眼的普通食材变成真正非凡的美味
Taking humble ingredients and turning them into something truly extraordinary.
这就是我眼中的南方饮食
That's what I see Southern food as.
但 在南方 我们失掉了种子 植物
But, in the South, we've lost the seeds, the plants,
还有代代相传的故事
the stories.
当我们失去这些植物 这些品种时
And when we lose these plants, when we lose these breeds,
我们同样失掉了几代人所积累的智慧
we lose multiple generations of wisdom.
失去了与一种文化 一片地域 和一个地方的特殊连结
We lose that connection to a culture, to a region and to a place.
一旦你意识到了这一点 你就明白 这是一件多么可怕的悲剧
Once you realize that, you understand what a tragedy that is.
如果你有机会帮助改变这一切...
And if you have an opportunity to possibly help change that...
那就会成为你的宿命 成为独属于你的旅程
that becomes your path. That becomes your journey,
最终 你可以为了你所热爱的事情做出一点小小的贡献
and, ultimately, you can make a small contribution to something that you love.
醋母看起来很像水母
The mother of vinegar looks like a jellyfish.
看起来有点像肝脏
Kind of looks like liver.
欢迎收听肖恩的"肝脏"笑话
Enter Sean's liver joke here.
我家里还有一罐我在"麦克雷迪"餐厅做的醋
I still have a jar of vinegar I made at McCrady's, at my house.
好啊 那些醋母是从我外婆的母亲那里流传下来的
Yup. So that started with my grandma's mother,
我得到的时候差不多已经有40年历史了
which was probably 40 years old when I got it.
它总是沉在罐子下面
It was always under the sink.
它曾经就那样浮在那里 把我吓得半死
That was floating in there and it used to scare me to death.
那是她的葬礼之后我拿的第一件东西
That was the first thing I grabbed after her funeral.
所以 麦克雷迪产出的所有原醋 都是我外婆的功劳
So, all those base vinegars that are at McCrady's are all my grandma's.
所以 我们才可以让它一直生产下去
So, we'll be able to keep that going and going.
我在弗吉尼亚的阿巴拉契亚山脉出生和长大
I was born and raised in the Appalachian Mountains of Virginia,
在煤田的深处
deep in the coalfields.
我还记得 在我还是孩子的时候 总是在煤堆里玩
I just remember, as a kid, playing in piles of coal all the time.
我爸爸从小家境贫寒
My father grew up very, very, very poor.
他11岁时 就不得不开始在煤田里工作
When he was 11, he had to start working in the coalfields,
这些经历让他坚定了一个信念
and that just shaped him into someone
绝不能让他的孩子继续受苦 他也确保了这一点
who never wanted his kids to grow up poor, so he made sure of that.
他从未停止过努力工作
He never stopped working.
但是 他十分热爱生活 真的特别热爱
But he loved life. He really, really loved life.
他大概一周有四天晚上都吃牛排
He ate steaks probably four nights a week.
他总爱恶作剧 把肌肉车开得特别快
He was always playing pranks and driving muscle cars really fast.
我们的童年十分快乐
And we had an unbelievable childhood.
但在我11岁的时候 他因为心脏病过世了
But when I was 11 years old, uh, my father passed away of a heart attack.
享年仅39岁
He was 39 years old.
在那个时刻 我们没有什么选择
At that point, we didn't really have a choice.
我们搬去和我外婆一起居住
We moved in with my grandmother.
我外婆一直料理着家人的饮食
My grandmother was constantly handling food.
为了生存 种植了一个巨大的菜园
Huge, huge garden that was for survival.
如果我们吃掉了一些 就会再种一些或者腌制保存
If we ate something, we grew it or preserved it.
我在那个阳光明媚 尘土飞扬的菜园里长大
I grew up in that garden in the sun, in the dirt,
趁着蔬菜还新鲜嫩绿的时候采摘和食用它们
picking things and eating them while they're still alive and still vibrant.
我那令人难以置信的骄傲 就是来源于这些食物
Food was this incredible source of pride.
我外婆一直教导我
My grandmother was constantly teaching me
她的祖父母传授给她的食物知识
the things that her grandparents taught her about food:
土豆什么时候才可以从地里拔♥出♥来♥
how to know when potatoes are ready to pull out of the ground,
如何识别豆子何时成熟
how to pick beans when they're ready,
怎样折断一条豆子 并用闪电的速度把种子串在一起
how to snap a bean and string it at lightning speed.
我就是这样长大的
That was just how I grew up.
我的美味之虹永远在那里
My vault of deliciousness will always be there,
它就是在那个时候培养起来的
and it was formed during that period of my life.
我记得我还是个孩子的时候...
I remember bein' a kid and, uh...
附近所有的邻居们 家里都有不同的油腻豆子
All of the neighbors around, everybody had a different greasy bean.
而且 我们每年都会举办比赛...
And there would be this competition every year, who...
你种了多少蒲式耳
how many bushels you grew.
这关乎荣誉
It was a matter of pride.
每听见一声大喊 就代表一个家庭有独特的豆子
And you think every single holler, every single family had unique beans,
玉米 番茄 南瓜 各种农作物
corn, tomatoes, squash, everything.
这个豆荚的颜色真漂亮
That's a pretty color that you get on that pod there.
很多这些东西 我肯定这些年来你也注意到了
So many of these things, as you've noticed over the years, I'm sure,
取了很多不同的名字 最常见的是家族名字
take on different names. The most common is the family name.
这个品质来自于路易斯安那州的华盛顿教区
This one came from Washington Parish, Louisiana,
琼斯一家种了很多年 所以就叫琼斯豆
grown for years by the Jones family, so they refer to it as the Jones pea.
实际上是多豆灰豆角
It's actually gray crowder.
我告诉过来到大棚的客人很多次...
I've told guests many times, who've come down to the shed...
我们谈论豌豆 豆荚 菜豆 各种豆子
We're talkin' about peas, beans, butter beans, you name it.
过一会儿 你会看着它说
After a while, you'd, uh, look at that and you'd say,
"这我知道 还有其他的介绍吗"
"Yeah, I see that. What else you got to offer?"
直到你把它的历史 故事说出来才可以
It's not till you put that living history with it, the story with it.
它有这么长的历史 一点都没有缺少 所有的...
You've got a chain this long, with no links missing, all...
都传到了今天 所有包含在其中的历史
passed down to today and all that history that went in between.
这是什么来着
Remind me what this is.
曼陀罗草
It's, uh, Jimson weed.
我有一个朋友 吃了它之后 又吃了一整袋狗粮[曼陀罗致幻]
One of my friends, uh, ate it and then ate a whole bag of dog food.