主厨的餐桌（2015）

吃了一整袋...
Ate a whole...
吃了一整袋狗粮...
Ate a whole bag of dog...
这我可忘不了
I gotta remember that.
-我的天... -吃了一整袋狗粮
- Oh, man... - Ate a whole bag of dog food?
住在乡下 你得学会找点乐子
Living in the country, you gotta find some way to have fun.
15岁的时候 我们搬到了
At the age of 15, we moved
维吉尼亚州一个大点的城镇 叫做阿宾顿
to a larger town in Virginia, called Abingdon,
我就是在那个时候做了我的第一份餐厅工作
and that's when I got my first restaurant job.
我第一天走进厨房♥里 那里跟我想得不太一样
First day I walked into that kitchen, it was not what I was expecting.
那是我见过 最吓人最疯狂的地方
It was the scariest, craziest thing I'd ever seen.
重金属音乐放得震天响...
Heavy metal playing so loud...
订单漫天飞舞...
Tickets waving in the wind...
厨房♥里有张吸烟用的桌子
There was a smoking table in the kitchen.
所有人行色匆匆 大喊大叫
And all of these people moving so quickly, and screaming and yelling,
说着他们昨晚喝了多少威士忌
and talking about how much whisky they drank the night before.
那里就像一艘海盗船
It was like a pirate ship.
我记得 最初几晚 我被热油溅到了
And I remember, the first few nights, being splashed with hot oil,
到处都被烫伤了
and just burns everywhere.
看到我胳膊的人都以为我被虐待了
And people seeing my arms and thinking I'd been abused.
然后我骄傲地说 "我是厨师 我做菜的"
And I would say with pride, "Oh, I'm a chef. I'm a cook."
我一下就爱上了那里
I was hooked immediately.
高中之后 我知道自己想成为一名厨师
After high school, I knew that I wanted to be a chef,
于是我开始研究美国饮食最丰富的城市
and so I started looking into the best culinary cities in America.
查尔斯顿是最近的地方 所以我收拾行李搬去了查尔斯顿
Charleston was the closest, so I packed up and moved to Charleston.
说到美国南方的美食之城
If you think about restaurant cities in the American South,
最有名的菜肴都来自查尔斯顿
the most storied cuisine emanates from Charleston.
初来乍到的肖恩几乎就像一名游客
And Sean arrives like a tourist, almost.
这个眼神狂野的孩子 非常兴奋 充满了好奇
This kind of wild-eyed kid, who was so excited, just curious.
那对我来说是一种剧烈的文化冲击
It was such a culture shock for me.
对一个阿帕拉契山里人来说 就像是日本的异国食物带来的冲击
It might as well have been Japanese food to an Appalachian guy.
此前 我从未踏足过
I had never ever stepped foot
像这里这么好的餐厅
in any restaurant as nice as the ones are here.
厨房♥里满是专业的厨师
To see a kitchen full of professional chefs,
做出这些光彩夺目的食物...
turning out these gorgeous plates of food...
太让人兴奋了
it was exhilarating.
那时候 查尔斯顿高级餐厅里的主厨
At that time, the chefs doing fine dining in Charleston
做的都是有代表性的经典菜肴
were taking these iconic and classic dishes,
像是"跳跃约翰" "粗玉米粉虾仁"
like Hoppin' John, and shrimp and grits,
盘子收拾得干干净净 摆盘更加精致
and cleaning them up, making them beautiful.
我想要学习怎么做
I wanted to learn how to do that.
所以 我让自己全身心投入到厨艺研究中
So, I threw myself into the craft of cooking.
想吃棕榈树吗
Want to eat a palmetto tree?
这闻起来很不错
It smells pretty good.
直接在这上面烹饪吗
Cook something directly on here?
我们把米饭放进去烹饪
Ah! We cook rice in this!
这可以封起来
Yeah, and it'll seal.
我们可以把米放进去 封起来 然后放进火里煮
So, we could put rice in this, seal it off and throw it in the fire.
这最后绝对会变成纤维状的...
It definitely gets super fibrous at the end...
这可以吃
That's edible.
-很美味 -是啊 很美味
- It's delicious! - It is. It's delicious.
真不错
That's so good.
肖恩和我1997年在南卡罗来纳州查尔斯顿的半岛烧烤店相遇
Sean and I met in 1997 at Peninsula Grill in Charleston, South Carolina.
对肖恩的第一印象是 他非常认真地想成为主厨
First impression of Sean was how serious he was about being a chef.
肖恩在半岛烧烤店工作 去上学
Sean worked at Peninsula Grill, went to school,
在他的休息日 他又在另一家餐厅工作
and, on his days off, he worked at another restaurant.
我记得我问他 "你难道不需要休息吗"
I remember asking him, "Don't you need a day off?"
他说 "不 我只想要工作"
He's like, "No, all I wanna do is work."
我疯狂地想要学习 想要努力掌握技艺
I was insane about learning, about trying to master my craft,
想要完善刀工 想要做出完美的酱汁
trying to make the knife cuts perfect, the sauces perfect.
那是我自豪的来源
That was my source of pride.
但是 当我接触到现代厨艺时 一切都变了
But when I discovered modern cooking, that changed everything.
这是半透明的 很美...
Yeah, it's translucent, it's beautiful...
想到我可以将食材
The idea that I could manipulate ingredients
放入这项奇妙的体验 我就觉得不可思议
into this magical experience. That was incredible to me.
没人那样制♥作♥南方饮食
No one was cooking Southern food that way.
睡衣 现代厨艺让成为了我新的痴迷
And so modern cooking became my new obsession.
我记得我第一次听说肖恩的时候
I remember the first time I heard about Sean.
他是一名分子料理神童
He was a molecular wunderkind,
是个实验性的主厨 会做火腿棉花糖
this kind of experimental chef, doing ham-fat cotton candy.
会做有趣的 让人惊讶的创意菜
Playful, inventive food that surprised.
有一次 我看到他做烧烤三明治
I saw him one time with some barbeque sandwiches
还使用到液氮
and liquid nitrogen.
他一直把那些三明治浸泡在牛奶中
And he had been steeping the sandwiches in milk,
然后在他卡车后面 慢慢开始做东西
and then slowly began to make, on the back of his pickup truck,
还一边喝着瓶子里的威士忌...
while drinking whisky from a bottle...
他开始制♥造♥出一小团一小团的烧烤冰淇淋
He began to plunk out little pellets of barbecue ice cream.
那一刻 我看到了肖恩的开始
And I saw, in that moment, kind of the beginnings of Sean.
他一直在探索自己是谁 想烹饪什么样的菜式
He was the guy on a path to figure out who he is and what he wants to cook.
拿最好的那个
Grab the nicest one.
好
Yes.
能帮我拿朵花吗
Will you grab a flower?
我第一次被任命为餐厅主厨
The first time I was hired as the head chef of a restaurant
是在田纳西州纳什维尔的隐士酒店
was at the Hermitage Hotel, Nashville, Tennessee.
我当时24岁 那是我第一次能够
And I was 24, and it was the first time I'd really had the freedom
自♥由♥地创造自己的食物
to create my own plate of food.
我自己的菜单 我自己的愿景
My own menu. My own vision.
我可以做任何我想做的菜肴
I could do whatever I wanted.
有表现的机会让我很兴奋
I was so excited to show off.
所以 当餐厅开始营业时 我们的试吃菜单上有三十道菜
And so, when we opened the restaurant, our tasting menu was 30 courses.
我当时的想法是 现代南方菜肴可以做得很惊艳
I had this idea that modern Southern food could be this amazing thing.
我们在情人节那天开业
We opened on Valentine's Day.
有275名客人预约
We booked 275 guests,
我想我们差不多接待了50人用餐
and I think we fed about 50 people.
站在厨房♥的正中间
To be standing in the middle of that kitchen,
看到食物做过了火候 被扔进垃圾桶
watching food just be overcooked and thrown in the garbage,
以及食物被客人退回来...
and food coming back, and...
雇佣我担当主厨的人站在那里 好像...
the people who hired me to do that job standing there just like...
"我们犯大错了"
"We made a mistake."
那种感觉很糟糕 我的意思是 真的很糟糕
That feeling was terrible. I mean, it was just terrible.
几天后 评论出版了
A few days later, the review comes out.
我内心感到无比的内疚和羞愧
I felt such guilt and shame.
我的人生中从未有过如此强烈的欲望 想要放弃这项事业
I've never ever wanted to quit something so bad in my entire life.
但我没有 第二天 我走进厨房♥ 向大家道歉
But instead, I walked in the next day and I apologized,
然后我说
and I said,
"在我们得到优秀的评价前 我一天也不会休息"
"I'm not gonna take another day off until we get a good review."
我下定决心 一定要达到自己的期望
I was determined to figure out how to execute my vision
以证明自己能够胜任这份工作
to prove myself worthy of that job.
我工作了整整十个月 一天不落
I worked for ten months straight, every day.
我从未踏出厨房♥一步
I didn't leave the kitchen.
我睡在工作台下 把拖把当作枕头 就这样住在厨房♥里
I slept under tables with mops as pillows, and I was living in the kitchen.
我只想要精益求精
Perfectionism was all I cared about.
每一道菜的每一个方方面面都按照我的要求去完成
Every single aspect of every single thing had to be done my way,
但我总是觉得不够完美
and I wasn't very nice about it.
只要有人想请假我就会很生气
I would get so mad when people wanted to take days off.
我想不明白 为什么只有我一个人对事情如此上心
I couldn't understand why no one else cared as much as I cared.
要注意观察烟的颜色
It's important to watch the color of the smoke.
当时几乎厨房♥里所有的人都放弃了
Pretty much the entire kitchen staff quit.
但我不能
But I couldn't fail.
我不能放弃
I couldn't fail.
十个月之后 纳什维尔报纸的评论员再次来到我们餐厅
Ten months later, the paper in Nashville came back to the restaurant.
之后 我就坐在报纸印刷厂的门口
And so, I sat outside of the place where the papers were being printed,
一直坐到凌晨四五点钟
until 4:00 or 5:00 in the morning.
事实证明 那十个月的埋头苦干...
That ten months of extreme workaholism...
是有用的
It worked.
所以 这就是我工作的方式
And so that was the way I worked.
是我思考的方式
That was the way I thought.
也是我期望每个人都能感受到的方式
That was the way I expected everyone else to feel.
怎么了 小母猪
What's up, Mother hog?
真不敢相信现在还有绿植
Can't believe there's still greenage.
是吧
Right?