主厨的餐桌（2015）

我基本上就是在这家肉店里长大的...
I was basically born in this butcher shop...
一个肉食主义的家庭
to a family of carnivores,
我也爱食物
and I loved food.
在一家肉店里 顾客不喜欢吃的那部分
In the butcher shop, anything that the customer doesn't want
就是我们家的口粮
is the family's food.
我奶奶会烹饪蹄髈 猪拱嘴
My grandma cooked legs, snouts,
还有尾巴
and cooked tails.
所有的胃 血 还有各式各样的内脏...
All of the bellies, the blood, guts...
这可是吃货们的天堂
It was paradise for the gluttons.
但奇怪的是
But there was a problem.
我从没见过她做肋排
I never saw a steak.
我知道那是很好的一块肉
I understood that good cuts existed,
但只提供给顾客们
but just for customers.
达里奥可吃不上
There were none for Dario.
那可真是煎熬
It was a great pain.
然后 我满18岁的时候 我父亲告诉我
Then, when I turned 18, my dad told me,
"你是一个大人了
"You're an adult.
你会给你一块肋排尝尝"
I'll give you a steak."
我无比激动 那是我...
The excitement, it was...
那可是我第一次吃...
it was really the first time...
然后 我咬下去的第一口...
And the first bite...
我被震惊了
It was almost a shock.
我说
I said,
"长久以来 年复一年 我一直期待着肋排
"For all my life, years and years, I've waited for steak.
现在 第一次尝过之后...
And now, after the first time...
我觉得 味道不错 但是...
it was good, but...
我奶奶做的其他食物
everything else that my grandma cooked
才是人间美味"
was paradise."
二十五年前
Twenty-five years ago,
肉通常都在超♥市♥里用塑料盘装着出♥售♥
Meat used to be in a supermarket, in a plastic tray.
屠夫这一职业完全消失了
The role of butchers had completely disappeared.
工业化饲养场
The industrial feedlots,
工业化屠宰
The industrial butchering
完全不尊重动物
Had no respect for the animals.
从饲养到售卖♥♥都是流水线作业
It's just an assembly line.
他们就给动物喂这种垃圾
They were feeding such crap
这让它们很容易患上疯牛病
To animals that they became sick with mad cow.
突然间 意大利决定 不再出♥售♥
At some point, Italy decided that the Florentine steak,
带有骨头的佛罗伦萨牛排[T骨牛排]
Which has the bone in, could no longer be sold.
也就是在这个时候 全世界第一次认识了达里奥
And that's when the world for the first time met Dario.
达里奥为佛罗伦萨牛排举♥行♥了葬礼
Dario had a funeral for the Bistecca Fiorentina,
他将牛排放在棺材之中
With a coffin that had the steak in it.
达里奥开始拍卖♥♥最后一块佛罗伦萨牛排
Dario started auctioning off the last Florentine steaks.
人们简直为此疯狂
People were just going wild.
那天我在迈阿密
On that day I was in Miami.
我正好辗转难眠
I could not sleep,
所以我打开了电视机
so I turned on the television.
转到CNN台 我看见手里拿着牛排的达里奥
I turned to CNN, and I saw Dario with steaks in his hands.
然后我说 "我这不是在做梦吧"
And I said, "But am I awake or still dreaming?"
那可真是让我印象深刻
It really was a surprising thing.
这太疯狂了 太疯狂了
It was insane. Insane.
但是 那就是达里奥
But that's Dario.
他拥有真正的幽默感 一点也不自命不凡
He has a real sense of humor and no pretension at all.
当你走进达里奥的任何一家餐厅时
When you walk into one of Dario's restaurants,
你立刻就会知道 这家餐厅会很有意思
Immediately, you know it's gonna be fun.
吃肉
Eat meat!
肉食万岁
Long live the meat!
然后 你听到达里奥背诵但丁的名句
And then you hear Dario recite Dante.
"公民们 叫我贪吃鬼吧
"You, citizens, called me Ciacco
因为我犯了那该死的暴饮暴食之罪"
for the damnable sin of gluttony."
在这样的氛围里 你只会情不自禁地沉醉此中
You can't help but enjoy yourself with something like that.
吃牛肉还是不吃牛肉 这是个问题
To beef or not to beef, that is the question.
达里奥不仅仅是个屠夫 他拥有三家餐厅
Dario is not only a butcher. He has three restaurants:
"美食药房♥" "牛排天堂" 和"庖丁博士"
The Officina, Solociccia and Dario Doc.
当你去吃过其中一家
When you eat in one of them,
你就能意识到 他对膝盖上的肉的尊重
You realize he has as much respect for the meat from the knee
并不亚于肋排上的肉
as the meat that comes from the steak.
每一部分 每一块肌肉 每一片肉
Every single part, every single muscle, every single piece of meat
都有它自己的价值
has its own quality,
他成功地将它们发扬光大
which he manages to bring out and enhance.
他希望你能品尝到这块牛肉的精髓
He wants you to taste the quintessence of this beef.
它生活的那片土地
Every drop of terroir,
它吃下去的每一棵小草
Every drop of grass that that cow was eating.
你绝对可以品尝出他对动物们的关怀
You can absolutely taste the care that he has for the animals.
他也同样得到了屠宰所应有的尊重
He's given respect back to butchering.
有些人 多年以来
These are people who, for years,
只是默默地
have just been standing
坚守着自己的岗位
behind a counter and doing their thing,
并没有得到太多的尊重
and not getting very much credit,
而现在他们得到了
and now they are.
这都是因为达里奥
And that's due to Dario.
早上好 洛伦佐
Good morning, Lorenzo.
-进展如何 都还好吗 -怎么样 非常好
- How's it going? All good? - How is it? Pretty good.
先把猪抬进去
Brought the pig.
慢慢来 注意脚下
Slowly, mind the step.
好的
Yes.
好啦
We did it.
把它放上去
Throw it up there.
等一下
Wait.
推 推
Go, go.
弄上来
Get it up.
成功了
We did it.
很好
Good.
真是头好猪啊
It's a beautiful pig.
而我...
And I...
是它的屠夫
am its butcher.
每当我面对着死亡的动物时...
Every time that I'm in front of the animal's death...
我想到的是生命与尊重
I think of the life, of the respect,
想到的是把它身体的每一个部位都派上用场...
of the responsibility of using everything well...
不冒犯到它的死亡
of not offending this death.
甚至是一小块骨头都不可以浪费
Not even a small bone will go wasted.
这就是作为屠夫的信条
This is being a butcher.
漂亮的火腿
Beautiful hams.
达里奥很快就要来了 我们得准备些东西
Dario is coming in a bit. We gotta prepare some stuff.
我带食物来了
I've brought food!
肋排
Steaks!
面包
Bread!
-酒 -好酒 我还把油带上了
- Wine. - Good wine. I even brought oil.
达里奥的食谱大多是传统的托斯卡纳食谱
Dario's recipes are mostly traditional Tuscan recipes.
并不需要那些花里胡哨的装饰
There is nobody making foams or fancy stuff.
厨房♥里不需要绣花枕头
There's really no fireworks going on in the kitchen.
托斯卡纳的烹饪最看重的就是一切从简
The Tuscan cooking, basically, is simple.
我可不是个厨师
I'm not a cook.
我是一个会烧饭的屠夫
I'm a butcher that cooks.
这很简单
It's extremely simple.
开始的时候 先喝一杯红酒
At the start, drink a glass of red wine.
会给你提供做菜的灵感
This inspires better cooking.
接下来 忘记你所学过的所有的烤肉技巧
And then, forget every grill technique.
最后...
Finally...
跟着感觉走
rely on instinct.
做一个佛罗伦萨牛排
Take a Florentine steak...
亦或是西冷牛排
or the boneless sirloin.
每八分钟翻一下面
Eight minutes per side.
每一面都不加盐 不加油
Each side without salt, without oil.
肉和炭火
Meat and fire.
追根溯源
Think of the origin.
一切都是简单的事情 要心情愉悦地去做
It's all about simple things, done with pleasure.
这很重要
This is important.
达里奥的牛排上没有酱汁
There's no sauce on the steaks at Dario's.
原汁原味才是真美味
It is so delicious,