主厨的餐桌（2015）

我是从约翰·福尔兹那儿买♥♥的这头猪
I got this pig from John Foltz.
她叫阿♥拉♥巴马 是头杂交猪
Alabama is her name. She's an iron-age pig.
"铁器时代猪"是野猪和家猪的杂交品种 旨在重现古代欧洲铁器时代史前艺术作品中所描绘的那种猪 该项目开始于20世纪80年代初 通过将一头雄性野猪与一头塔姆沃思母猪杂交 培育出长得像史前猪的杂交猪
她... 差不多是奥斯萨巴猪和梅山猪的串儿
It's, uh... basically an Ossabaw crossed with a Meishan
还有一些其他的品种 卡尔·布莱克...
and some other mixes. Carl Blake, out of...
在爱荷华州培育的
out of, uh, Iowa, was doin 'em.
多神奇的生物啊
What an amazing creature.
-它已经在这里生存了四百年了 -对啊
- Four hundred years, it's been here. - Right?
那你想怎么处理海福特猪呢
What'll you do with the Hereford?
我就用它们和奥斯萨巴猪杂交
I'm just using it to cross with our Ossabaws.
人们很习惯吃那种粉白色的猪肉 有很厚的肥肉
People are so used to pink, white pork. Big, fat portions.
没有肥油
No fat.
肌间脂肪含量低
No inner muscular fat.
要是用超♥市♥买♥♥来的猪排
You can't take a grocery store pork chop
直接放在锅上煎的话 肯定会糊得一塌糊涂
and cook it in a skillet now without burning the shit out of it.
但是 要是用这种杂交后代猪的猪排的话...
Whereas, you took a heritage-breed hog pork chop, uh...
你只需要把它扔进锅里加点儿盐和胡椒
throw it in there and just add salt and pepper,
单靠它本身的油脂就可以
its own fat.
我为了培育它们尽心尽力
I worked on this breed for years
最后我们决定给它起名叫"Berkawata-Derokaball"
and we ended up calling it "Berkawata-Derokaball"
所有养猪的人都想要养出所谓的"超级猪"
Everybody that raises pigs thinks they're gonna create a "super pig."
是的 我也是这么想的
Yeah, I was trying to do that.
是 我见了十个从脸书和各种社交媒体上认识的养殖户
Yeah, I've met ten pig friend farmers on Facebook and all the social medias,
他们都说自己已经培育出了"超级猪"
and they've all got the "super pig." You know?
所以 这就... 这就很搞笑了
So, it's really... That is pretty comical.
让我想起了很多往事
This brings back a lot of memory
想起来小时候疯狂追着猪跑的时候
of running through all this, chasing pigs for the hell of it.
是啊 光阴似箭啊
Right? Time flies.
在隐士酒店工作了三年后
After three years at the Hermitage Hotel,
我开始思考我的下一步
I started wondering about the next step.
当成为查尔斯顿最好的餐厅 麦克雷迪餐厅的
When an opportunity came up to be the chef at McCrady's,
主厨的机会摆在我面前时
the best restaurant in Charleston,
我很兴奋向这个城市展示我对现代南方饮食的憧憬
I was so excited to show off my vision of modern Southern food to this city.
但当我来到这里 我对当时现有的菜品很不满意
But when I arrived, I was frustrated with the produce that was available.
我想要的品种
The varietals that I wanted.
我想要的品质都不满意
The quality that I wanted.
我当时想要做出面向未来的菜品
I was trying to push this cuisine into the future.
但是 如果食材达不到要求 我的想法就很难实现
And that can't happen if the ingredients don't exist.
我就是在那个时候遇到了格伦·罗伯茨
And that's when I met Glenn Roberts,
他是一名种子商 当时正在重建南方的储藏室
the seedsman who was restoring the pantry of the Lowcountry.
那 在这里 我们有源自非洲 有近四千年历史的不同稻谷
So, in this plot, we have 4,000-year-old different rices from Africa.
这些稻谷都是耐盐 抗旱 抗病的品种 生长速度快
They're salt-tolerant, water-tolerant, disease-tolerant and they're fast.
非常快
Wicked fast.
-看到浆了吗 -天啊 你看到了吗
- See the milk? - Wow. Did you see that?
是啊 尝尝吧
Yeah. Try that one.
-这个 就像 在嘴里炸开的牛奶一样 -是的
- It, like, exploded milk. - Yeah.
-这太棒了 不是吗 -天啊
- It's awesome, isn't it? - Wow!
而且你可以摘下稻叶 榨成汁 然后给米粒染色
And you can take the leaves, juice them, and then dye the rice kernels.
这太酷了
That's really cool.
格伦明白 为了重振南方菜肴的名声
Glenn knew that in order to revive the cuisine of the Lowcountry,
一切都要从挑选卡罗莱纳州所特有的稻米开始
you have to start with the specific varietals of the Carolina rice kitchen.
要想了解查尔斯顿菜肴
To understand Charleston cuisine,
就必须先明白 它的起源来自西非
you have to understand its roots, which is based in West Africa.
它是种很有层次感的菜系 与稻谷息息相关
It's a very layered cuisine, heavily influenced by rice,
很显然是因为 通过被奴役的西非奴隶的知识
because obviously rice made a lot of people in the city rich
城里很多人都发家致富了
through the knowledge of enslaved West Africans.
奴隶们将他们所知道的稻谷 秋葵
Those who were enslaved brought their knowledge of rice culture,
绿植的知识传授给人们
the okra, the greens,
一切我们能在南方餐桌上看到的不同蔬菜品种的知识
these different vegetables that we see on that Southern table.
所有这些源自西非的作物
All these crops of West African origin
或是西非特有的作物
or West African expertise
成就了这些以稻谷为主食的美食
are what made dishes that are dependent upon rice for their backbone,
比如跳跃约翰炒饭 跛足苏珊炒饭 是查尔斯顿标志性的存在
like Hoppin' John, like Limpin' Susan, so specific to Charleston.
但在内战结束之后我们就丢失了这些食材
But we lost these ingredients after the Civil War,
因为西非黑人的后裔放弃了稻田 奔向城市寻找工作
when people of West African descent quit the rice fields for jobs in the city,
或是直接从南卡罗莱纳州搬迁到费城或是纽约
or moved the hell out of South Carolina and went to Philadelphia and New York.
这就是正义
And that's justice.
对吧 这就是进步
Right? That's progress.
到现在...
And yet...
如果你真正珍惜西非人♥民♥带来的农业知识
if you value the agricultural knowledge that West African peoples brought,
珍惜他们为美国南方作出的贡献...
and then nurtured in the American South, in the Lowcountry...
你确实会为失去那些知识而感到悲哀
you do lament that loss of knowledge.
你确实会为失去那些美味佳肴而感到悲哀
You do lament that loss of beauty in those rice kitchen dishes.
这很复杂 就像美国南方的一切 很复杂
It's complicated. Like everything about the South, it's complicated.
你一般都怎么烤它
What do you usually roast it in?
我最喜欢的就是加一点点猪油直接放在烤盘上烤
My favorite way is roasted in a cast iron pan with a little lard.
-这就对了 -猪油万岁
- That's it. - Lard's the best.
这样你就能转变那些不吃秋葵的人的看法
That's how you can convert okra haters.
-闻着像是烤秋葵 -是啊
- Smells like roasted okra. - Yeah.
我必须参与这些濒临灭绝的品种的种植
I had to be a part of putting these varietals that were nearly extinct
让它们重新回到餐桌上
back into production, back on to the plate.
是的 难以置信 靠 真是太香了
Yeah. Unbelievable. Shit, that's good.
我穿梭于农场之间
I was going from farm to farm to farm.
"这些就是我们要种的种子
"These are the seeds we have to grow.
种 种 种 我都买♥♥ 我全买♥♥了"
Plant. Plant. Plant. I'll buy everything. I'll buy it all."
一点点地 食品储藏室就存下了
And, little by little, our pantry was being stocked with ingredients
本地独特而正宗的食材
that were unique and true to this place.
我就可以推广这一菜系了
And I was able to push this cuisine forward.
食材越来越丰富 于我而言就越有趣
And the food got crazier and crazier, and, for me, more fun.
突然 餐厅大受关注
All of a sudden, the restaurant's gaining a lot of attention.
外地人从查尔斯顿以外的地方远道而来
People were traveling from outside of Charleston
见识麦克雷迪餐厅的烹饪
to come see what was happening at McCrady's.
2010年 我获得了
In 2010, I got nominated
詹姆斯·比尔德美食大奖 东南部最佳主厨的提名
for the James Beard Award for, uh, Best Chef: Southeast.
而且成功当选
And I won.
我向世界展现了 现代南方菜也可以很惊艳
I had shown to the world that modern Southern food could be amazing.
在麦克雷迪 我非常专注于
At McCrady's, I was so focused
创造性和与众不同
on creativity and being different,
我认为自己要一直在厨房♥
I thought I had to be in the kitchen all the time.
但是 我不断地从农场主那里听到关于拯救种子的浪漫故事
But I kept hearing these romantic stories from farmers about seed saving
而自豪感随之而来
and the pride that came along with that.
我必须亲身经历一下
I had to experience that for myself.
于是 我就找了块地
And so, I found a plot of dirt,
跟格伦讨了种子
begged Glenn for seeds.
他给我了一些
He gave me a few ears
很漂亮的红到发黑的玉米
of this beautiful, super dark, almost black-red corn
那种玉米穗快绝种了 叫吉米红玉米
that was almost extinct, called Jimmy Red Corn.
我每天六点起床 去园里干活
And every day I would wake up at 6:00 and just work on the garden.
日落才回来 看着玉米长大
Being back in the sun, watching that corn grow,
照料它 担心它
taking care of it, worrying about it
那是我儿时起就少了的一块谜题拼图
was a part of the puzzle that'd been missing since I was a kid.
我再次爱上了土地
And I fell in love with dirt again.
我做的第一锅玉米面包
That first pan of cornbread I made
吃起来跟外婆做的一模一样
felt just like eating at my grandmother's table.
那是一个完整的轮回
And it just came full circle.
我终于知道了 自己要做什么 需要走哪条路
I knew what I needed to do and what path I needed to take.
几个月后 "哈斯克"餐厅开张
And a few months later, we opened Husk.
在"哈斯克" 我们的使命
At Husk, our mission
就是纪念朴实而充满灵魂的南方菜肴和传统
was to celebrate simple, soulful Southern recipes and traditions,
就像我外婆做的那样
just like my grandmother did.
开业后 哈斯克餐厅的基本原则一直是
The defining principle at Husk since its inception has been,
"非南方不登堂"
"If it's not Southern, it's not walking in the door."
当你不能再打电♥话♥
When you can't just pick up the phone
订购意大利香醋和西班牙橄榄油时
and order balsamic vinegar from Italy and olive oil from Spain,
你就得自己做
you make your own.
你就得研究传统
You study the traditions.
因此我们开始自己酿醋 榨油 提盐
And so we started making our own vinegars and oils and salts
自己磨面
and grinding our own flours.
这些比我们以往用过的任何调料都好太多了
And it was so much better than anything we ever cooked with.
我们成了收藏家 在美国南方搜寻食材
We became collectors, scouting the South for ingredients.
感觉我们在做有意义的事