主厨的餐桌（2015）

变成了一种奢侈的享受
into something that is completely decadent.
这道菜有非常朴实的基础
You have very humble beginnings,
但是加上了非常奢侈丰富的配料
and then you have it topped with something rich and sophisticated.
两者一起 铸就了这么一道美味的老式肉汁
And what really melds them together is just a good, old-fashioned gravy.
这是玛莎玛作为小姑娘的风格
It's Mashama as a little girl on the plate,
也是玛莎玛作为烹饪新锐的风格
and it's also Mashama as a grown culinary force on the plate.
这道菜代表了我的烹饪经历
It illustrates my culinary journey.
就是这样
That's what's up.
像我在家一样 就着锅吃玉米粥
Just eating grits out of the pot like I'm home.
你好 我想要一个热熏肉加洋葱碎配熏干酪
Hi. Can I order a hot pastrami with shaved onion and provolone cheese?
你想要加一块酸黄瓜吗
And would you like a pickle with that?
是的 要加 谢谢
Yes, please. Please.
对于我父母来说 教育才是进步
For my parents, progress was education.
毫无疑问我需要去上大学
It was not a question that I would go to college.
在我寻找不同的道路的时候
When I started looking into different avenues that I can take,
没有什么我感兴趣的选择
nothing really interested me.
所以 我当时就想 "那好吧 要不我就做跟父母一样的
So I was like, "All right, I guess I'll just do what my parents did.
那就去做社会工作吧"
I guess I'll just go into social work."
天哪 天哪 我当时太开心了 特别为她骄傲
Oh, boy. Oh, boy. I was just beaming. I was so proud of her.
她从大学毕业实在是太重要了
It was important that she graduated from college.
这是我们都希望她完成的事
This was something that we wanted her to complete.
我拿了心理学学士学位
I got a psychology degree,
开始在救助站帮助无家可归的孩子们
and I started working with kids at this homeless shelter.
那份工作对我来说非常沉重
And that was super heavy for me.
我觉得无法承受 也做得不好
I just felt overwhelmed, and I wasn't doing a good job.
然后我就被解雇了
And then I got fired.
简直就是对教育制度的冲击
That was a shock to the system.
就是在那时我明白了 我需要弄清楚我想做什么
That's when it set in that I needed to figure out what I wanted to do.
我被解雇之后 大部分时候就好像开了自动驾驶仪
When I got fired from my job, I was just sort of on autopilot.
那段时间 我有个好朋友去了烹饪学校
Around that time, one of my best friends was going to culinary school.
而我一直对食物情有独钟
And I always had this fondness with food,
但是当时我想 "我没有钱去烹饪学校"
but I thought, "I don't have money to go to culinary school.
我才刚刚开始还自己的学生贷款"
I'm just starting to pay off my student loans."
但是我朋友说 "你不需要钱 你可以半工半读"
He was like, "You don't need money. You can go to work-study."
我就想 "那好 我大概可以尝试烹饪"
And I thought, "A-ha! Maybe I'll try cooking."
我还参加了一份校外实习
There was this externship and I signed up for it.
你瞧 我就这样飞去了法国
Lo and behold, I'm on a plane to France.
我去一个城♥堡♥和韦安妮一起工作
I went to work at a château with Anne Willan.
韦安妮: 剑桥大学毕业 1975年创立著名的法国烹饪学校 La Varenne 被誉为大西洋两岸的首席烹饪专家 著述颇丰 多部作品均获奖 并曾任国际烹饪专家协会主席
那是个山顶上的城♥堡♥ 非常美
It was this beautiful castle on top of a hillside.
还有草药园和蔬菜园
We had herb gardens and vegetable gardens,
我们还一周去两次山下的市场
and we went down to the market twice a week,
到处都五彩缤纷
and it was all this color.
我当时觉得 那里就是天堂
And I thought this was heaven.
在这种环境下生活
Living in this environment,
完完全全和食材相连的时候
where you're completely connected to the ingredients,
每天都是在不急不忙地烹饪
and slow, all-day cooking.
我就这样耳濡目染
I just soaked it up.
回到纽约后 我找到了一份私人厨师的工作
When I went back to New York City, I landed a job as a personal chef.
但是 当我告诉我父母的时候 就好像立刻回到了上世纪50年代
But when I told my parents, it immediately brought them back to the '50s.
她找了一份工作
She had gotten a job
是在汉普顿的一个白人家庭
with this white family out in the Hamptons,
是长岛上那种非常豪华的纽约
which is a really ritzier New York on Long Island.
我们不喜欢那种场景
And we didn't like the image.
-完全不喜欢这种场景 -一点也不
- I didn't like the image at all. - No, not at all.
她更像是个住家女仆
She was more like a live-in maid.
-像是帮佣 -对 帮佣
- Like the help. - Yeah, the help.
在我看来 一点都没进步 反而更像是...倒♥退♥
It didn't look like progress to me. It was more like... a setback.
他们只是不能理解
They just didn't understand.
只是觉得是一个黑人女性给一个白人家庭打工
They just saw a black woman working in a house for white folks.
那不是我想做的主厨
That's not the chef that I wanted to be.
我不想做帮佣
I didn't want to be the maid.
想做比这个更高层次的事
I wanted to be something more elevated than that.
天哪 看起来太棒了
Oh, my God, that looks amazing.
今晚 我们做生的 我们不烤鱼
So, tonight, we're doing crudo. We're not doing fish toast.
明天 我们会多一位新的帮厨
And then tomorrow, we're gonna have an extra prep person
来帮手准备新菜品
to help with the new dishes.
我们集中精力装盘就可以了
So, then we'll just focus on plating the dishes.
-我说清楚了吗 -很清楚
- Does that make sense? - That makes sense.
好的 谢谢大家
Okay. All right, thank you, everyone.
我想慎重对待我的烹饪事业
I wanted to take my cooking seriously,
我知道 为了达到这个目的
and I knew that in order for me to do that,
我必须进高级餐厅
I had to go into fine dining.
在我的成长经历里 我没有接触过高级餐厅
Growing up, I wasn't exposed to a fine dining environment.
我们从来不去餐厅吃 我父母负担不起
We never went to restaurants. My parents just couldn't afford it.
我进入了一个完全不同的世界
I was going into a whole different world.
我立刻从底层开始
I immediately started at the bottom.
我每个岗位都做过 我积累每个岗位的经验
I worked all the stations, I took from each station I worked,
一旦我坚持过去了 我就想跟主厨学习
and once I could take the heat, then I wanted to learn from a chef.
我整个职业生涯 都听着"紫红"餐厅的故事
I had heard about Prune throughout my entire career.
"紫红" 是你需要去深造的几个地方之一
Prune, it was one of the places you were supposed to go.
大家都在谈论
Everybody was talking about it.
加布里埃尔·汉密尔顿在"紫红"做的很多菜
Lot of what Gabrielle Hamilton did at Prune
都用了一些很普通的食材 比如苏打饼干
was take, sort of lowly ingredients, like saltine crackers,
然后就像魔法般变幻出了美食...
and do things with them that were magical...
以一种大多数主厨可能都想不到的方式
in ways that most chefs might not have thought to do.
加布里埃尔烹饪的那种食物如此简单
The type of food that Gabrielle was cooking was so simple,
就几种食材 然后让它们发挥最大的效用
taking a few ingredients and having them really sing.
我真的认为 这就是食物的意义
And I really thought that's what food is all about.
我在"紫红"待了三年 我过得非常开心
I was at Prune for about three years and I was happy.
我在成长
I was growing.
我终于找到了一个让我有归属感的环境
I'd finally found an environment that I felt at home in.
那 下一个大转变是什么呢
So, what's the next big switch?
我想做一道兔肉高粱配辣椒芥末酱的
So, I wanna do a rabbit-sorghum mustard glaze with, like, cayenne.
我觉得应该会很不错
I think it's gonna be really good.
第戎是非常传统的法国风格
The Dijon is so traditionally French,
但是如果加了红辣椒和高粱 就会...
but then you throw cayenne and sorghum into it, and it's like...
就会变成另一种食物风格
Yeah, it turns into something else.
我觉得 变得有南方风格了
It turns into something Southern. I think.
-我也觉得是这样 -对的
- Yeah, I think so. - Yeah.
当我花心思给"灰调"餐厅寻找生意搭档的时候
When I was trying to find my business partner for The Grey,
我给加布里埃尔·汉密尔顿打了电♥话♥ 她告诉我"去找玛莎玛"
I called Gabrielle Hamilton, and Gabrielle said, "Talk to Mashama."
于是 我去见了玛莎玛
And so, I met Mashama.
我们安排了一个小时 而我又是一个非常有条理的人
We had an hour in the schedule, and I'm a very regimented guy.
如果我定了一个小时 那就是一个小时
If I have an hour, it's an hour.
而四个小时以后 我们依然在酒吧里喝着东西
And four hours later, we were still together in a bar, having drinks,
聊的全都是吃的
and all we did was talk about food.
几乎就像跟老朋友一样如故
It was almost like being with an old friend.
如果你把粗玉米粉放进去 然后揉到一起...
If you bring that ugali in, then the bridges...
-你要我帮你做点玉米粉吗 -我很愿意
- Would you like me to make you some ugali? - I would like it.
我当时就知道 我想要她来"灰调"做我的搭档
I knew right there I wanted her to be my partner in The Grey.
我很喜欢一切尽在我们的掌控之中
I love the fact that we have things so under control here
可以坐下来吃一份意面 喝一杯酒
that we can just sit and eat a bowl of pasta and have a glass of wine.
上帝会听见你的祈祷
From your mouth to God's ears.
和约翰诺见面的时候
When I met Johno,
得知餐厅将坐落于萨凡纳
I found out that the restaurant was going to be located in Savannah,
我立即就被深深地迷住了
and I was immediately intrigued.
所以我来看看这个空间
So I'd come down to view the space.
我们下了车 我一抬头
We get out of the car and I look up,
看到我们正在马丁·路德·金大道上
and I can see that we're on Martin Luther King Boulevard,
在我父母结婚的街对面
across the street from where my parents got married,
这是我童年成长的城市
in a city that I lived in for my childhood.
我们走进去
We walked inside,
这里最初是一座隔离的古老的灰狗巴士站
and it was this old Greyhound bus station that was initially segregated.
我走过座位区 那里曾经是售票处
And I walked through the seating area where the ticket counter was,
后面 是粉饰过的候车室
and in the back, there's the Colored waiting room.
然后我想 "真是不公平"
And I thought, "How unfair."
我的祖先们曾住在这里
My ancestors were here,
这栋建筑里发生过很多斗争
and so many struggles have happened in this building.
我感受到了一种连结
I felt a connection.
我让那种冥冥中的感应引领着我