主厨的餐桌（2015）

不甜 很香 有回味
It's not sweet, it's delicious, it's stable.
值得放上餐桌
It merits its place at the table.
蛋白酥是一种经典糕点
The meringue is a classic piece of pastry.
威尔·戈法布说 它有多种制法
It's always been made a certain way. Will Goldfarb says,
"我打算改变配比
"I'm gonna change the ratios.
把它做出这里的风味"
I'm gonna do it how it needs to be done here."
这是一种办法 说明蛋白酥不再属于
It's a way of saying that the meringue doesn't belong
法式烹饪传统了
to this French culinary tradition anymore.
它属于新兴的印尼糕点传统
It belongs to this new Indonesian pastry tradition.
我觉得至少要有种带巴厘岛基调的蛋白酥
I thought it was important to have at least one meringue
这一点很重要
that had some foundation in Bali.
所以没用我的或者餐厅名来命名
So it's not named after me or the restaurant.
而是用了糖的来源地命名
It's named after the place the sugar comes from.
"巴厘蛋白酥"
Balinese Meringue.
2004年时 我在Cru这个志向远大的餐厅工作
In 2004, I was working at Cru, which was a really ambitious restaurant.
我知道我得谨慎对待
And I knew that I needed to play it safe.
基本放弃了前卫的东西
I basically took all of that edgy shit out.
后来有一天 我跟餐厅老板罗伊·韦兰聊天
And then one day, I was sitting with Roy Welland, who was the owner.
他说 "放开手脚 大胆做 还能差到哪儿去呢"
He said, "Go for it. Be yourself. What's the worst that could happen?"
于是我想出了这个甜品名 叫"海滨时光"
I had this idea for a dish. We called it "Day at the Beach."
一般观点认为
The general idea was that
甜品能让人回想起某个特殊时刻
a dessert could transport you to a particular moment.
我们用了番红花糖浆
We use the saffron syrup.
金黄的颜色散发出温暖的光泽
The golden color kind of gives off the illusion of warmth.
海上的清雾 变成喷瓶中的盐水
The refreshing mist of the ocean became salt water in a spray.
再有就是小道具和沙滩巾
And then there was the props and the beach towel.
我们用脆火腿做了蛋奶苏打
We did a pastry cream soda with crispy ham.
用啤酒做了葡萄柚凝胶
A grapefruit gel with beer.
它具有标志性意象 是交互式的
It had iconic imagery. It's interactive.
展示了有关脂肪碳化的技术进步
It shows the technical advance, which was this idea of carbonating fat.
我确信这点显而易见
I was sure it would speak for itself.
而关键反响却是...
The critical reaction was...
"纽约邮报"声称聘用我
New York Post said hiring me
是纽约市全年最糟的决定 没有之一
was the worst decision in New York that year.
有人这么评价你了 意味着你毫无可信度
When you get reviews like that, you've got no credibility.
这不仅会削弱你的厨艺
It doesn't just undercut your cooking,
也会削弱你的一切信仰
it undercuts everything you say you believe in.
我明白我要被炒了 也明白个中原因
I knew I was getting fired. And I knew why I was getting fired.
是啊 很闹心
Yeah, it was bad.
人人都说你如何如何差劲之时
It was very hard to maintain any kind of confidence
你很难保持自信度
when everyone tells you always how terrible you are.
美女 她美极了
Hey, gorgeous. She's so great.
到了2005年 我累了
By 2005, I was tired.
我四处受抨击
And it was really hard,
频繁被解雇 实在是招架不住
being universally panned and repeatedly fired.
我太太一直支持着我们
My wife was supporting us.
我照顾着我三月大的女儿
I was taking care of our daughter who was three months old.
后来 分类列表网
And then there was an ad
出了个新甜品吧的广♥告♥
in Craigslist for a new dessert bar.
是电影聚会吧
It's the movie moment, right?
所以我去跟他们见了面
So I went to meet the guys.
他们给了我很棒的报价
And they gave me an amazing offer.
我对未来感到惶恐不安
I was terrified about what would happen.
正想从一连串失败 分崩离析和差评中脱身
I was coming off a string of failures and departures and bad reviews.
也许我有毒吧
I was toxic.
感觉这事肯定没好下场
I thought there was no way it was gonna work.
我就拒绝了
So I turned it down.
我老婆说 "疯了吧 这活儿你得接"
My wife was like, "You're crazy. You have to take the job."
她说 "这是你翻身的机会
She was like, "It's a chance to have your own place.
这是你梦寐以求 期待已久的机会
That's what you want. That's what you've been waiting for.
也是你能了却心愿的唯一机会"
That's the only way you'll ever be able to do what you want."
我就去了 可还是很忐忑
So I went for it, but I was terrified of the response.
威尔开了"甜品小屋"
Will opened Room 4 Dessert,
一家只做糕点的餐厅
a restaurant that didn't serve any food besides pastry.
人们去那儿像去用餐一样
People were going there like it was a meal.
他们在家吃完饭 就去甜品小屋了
They'd eat dinner at home and go to Room 4 Dessert
坐下来 要一份甜品菜单
and sit there and have a dessert tasting menu.
忽然间 甜品成了潮流所向
All of a sudden, dessert's the main attraction.
在曼哈顿下城开一家只有20个座的甜品餐厅
Opening a 20-seat dessert-tasting counter-restaurant in Lower Manhattan,
是种不一样的运动
that's a different sport.
前厅即是厨房♥
You were in the kitchen with us.
后面没有工作区
There was no back of house.
我负责洗盘子 扫厕所 做甜品
I was doing the dishes, cleaning the toilets and cooking.
我们在客人面前挤来蹭去
We were there busting our ass in front of you.
为150位客人做甜品 你们看着我们出汗
Cooking for 150 people. You're watching us sweat.
这不是什么抽象的高档艺术
This wasn't some abstract high-art thing.
就是一群纽约普通人
This was a bunch of dudes in New York
把食物端给你
getting the food in front of you
非常在意你的开心程度
and really caring about your happiness.
我们有预感会被人评头论足
We'd had an inkling that we'd be reviewed.
真那样就太可怕了
I just figured it would be awful.
当我看到评论的时候 大吃一惊
When I saw the review, it took me by surprise.
我哭了
I was crying.
居然是好评 这可真是破天荒了
A decent review? That's the first one I ever had.
我泪流满面 一时无法相信
I was totally in tears. It was unbelievable.
接着 "纽约人"杂♥志♥的文章出来了
And then, the New Yorker article came out,
给了这个标题 "岂止于甜品餐厅
and that put us into the "You're not a restaurant,
简直是文化盛况"
you're a cultural activity."
各路人物接踵而至
And different people started coming.
越来越多 数不胜数
And more of them. A lot more.
还是忽然间
All of a sudden,
我被车接车送去往各处
cars are picking me up to go places
还乘飞机环游世界
and I'm getting flown around the world.
每晚我都在台上
I was on stage every night.
我们希望每天都登报
We expected to be in the paper every day.
我们得了"糕点艺术与设计"的美国十强奖
We had a Pastry Art & Design top ten in America.
被"詹姆斯·彼尔德"奖提名[美食大奖]
Got nominated for a James Beard award.
我像又回到大伙儿中间
It felt like I was back with the big boys,
但不再是学徒 我出头了
but I wasn't an apprentice, I was on stage.
想想12个月前 我还是失业状态呢
I mean, it was only 12 months before that I was unemployable.
实在是醉了
It was intoxicating.
我开始专注于自我价值
I became absorbed in my own importance.
那个盖我小样的碗呢
Where's that bowl to cover my small batch?
两单 开始吧
Two recipes, please. Let's go.
火快熄了 我没东西可做了
Dying right now, on the fire, I've got nothing to cook.
我和餐厅老板差不多到了临界点...
The guys that I opened with and I had sort of gotten to the point where...
对于我风头太劲的关注 双方都没处理好
Neither one of us was handling the attention I was getting very well.
所以他们决定关掉餐厅
So they just decided to close the restaurant.
等我注意到 我简直... 难以置信
I found out and I was like... I couldn't believe it.
失去地位是个非常沉重的打击
It was a pretty massive blow to lose my place.
就像被重拳打在肚子上
That was like being punched in the stomach.
离开那时 我已没了任何想法
I don't think I had any emotion left at that point.
我去闭关了 这样简单点
I just went for shutdown. I think that was easier.
威尔非常难过
Will was heartbroken.
对整个失败史而言
For all the history of failures,
总会有一个
there is a person in all of that
想被赏识其才华的伯乐看中的人
who wants to be embraced by people who appreciate his talent.
在纽约开一家自己的餐厅
It's a dream to open your own place in New York City,
按自己的方式做事 是个遥远的梦
doing what you want to do by your own terms.
定自己的规矩 开辟一条新路
Making your own rules, forging a new path.
一切都完了 感觉很失落
That comes to an end, it doesn't feel good.
我太太觉得应该离开纽约了
My wife decided that it was time to get out of New York.
我完蛋了
I was done.
巴厘岛就像... 极其像...
Bali just seemed like... Well, it's... pretty severe as
彻底退出舞台
"exit stage left" goes.
再登巴厘岛的时候 现实已磨平了我的棱角
By the time I got to Bali, I'd been pretty softened up with reality.
满心都是 "我人还在 但厨艺荒废一阵子了
And I was like, "I'm here, but I haven't cooked for a while.
挺悲催的 全世界都对不起我"
I'm sort of miserable. The world is united against me."
收入暴减 野心全无
And I had much less money and ambition.
我决定走进厨房♥的时候
When I decided to get into the kitchen,