主厨的餐桌（2015）

那时我在电♥话♥边
I was next to the phone,
我应该首选打电♥话♥ 对吧
and I figured I should call the first choice, right?
我就打给"斗牛犬"
So I called El Bulli,
他们可能以为我想订餐位
and I think they thought I wanted to make a booking.
他们说 "我们不接受预订 目前是冬歇"
And it was like, "We can't take a booking. We're closed for winter."
我说 "不是 我想过来 我想工作"
I was like, "No, I wanna come. I wanna work."
他们说 "可以啊 打算来多久
And they were like, "Sure. How long you wanna come for?
全年还是半年"
The full year or the half?"
我说 "那就全年吧"
I was like, "The full year is fine."
就这么去了
And that was it.
只为能进全球最佳餐厅
It was, like, the most nonchalant,
我等了两年 偷偷打一个电♥话♥
two-year wait for a under-the-table phone call,
还得躲避政♥府♥的搜查
while hiding from the authorities,
梦想却以最不经意的方式实现了
to get into the best restaurant in the world.
收获了邀请 我兴奋得像去参加舞会
Getting that invitation made me feel I belonged at the big dance.
-我不想你掉下来 可... -没事
- I don't want you to fall. But... - It's okay.
-又来了 -更惨的跤... 我都摔过
- There you go. - I've... I had worse.
截止昨天之前
Not since yesterday.
又来了 你能做到的
There you go. You can do this.
-我能爬到这儿吗 -可以可以
- Can I go here? - Yes. Yes.
我能摘多少 就这个
How many can I take? Just that?
摘一点吧 摘一点
Take a few. Take a few.
-这儿吗 -就要那个
- Here? - We need that.
-对吗 -拿给我吧 对的 谢谢
- Yeah? -Bring mother's milk, yes. Thank you.
-够不够 -非常够 给我吧
- Enough? - Yes, wonderful. Here.
用食物养育彼此的世上最先进的文明
There's about 5,000 years of oral and written history
有近五千年的口述
of the world's most advanced civilizations
和书面记载的历史
taking care of each other with food.
看 这儿有很多 好的
There, we got a whole bunch here. All right.
这就是柠檬草
So, this is lemongrass.
真漂亮
Beautiful.
你若对食物史有兴趣
If you're interested in food history,
应该知道 不可能把药物和食物分开
it's impossible to separate it from food as medicine.
在巴厘岛 传统疗法依然深入生活
Here in Bali, traditional remedies are very much still a way of life.
弄甜点吧
Let's make it sweet.
最常见的一种是佳木黄姜 或者叫黄佳木
The most commonly known one would be jamu kunyit, or yellow jamu...
谢谢 亲爱的
Thank you, dear.
对上亿印尼人来说 佳木是提神醒脑的一种选择
To hundreds of millions of Indonesians, jamu is just a part of waking up.
虽有椰汁和咖啡可选 我早上喝佳木
I drink jamu in the morning when I have coconut water and coffee.
变草药为甜品菜单的特色部分
Making medicinal herbs a feature part of a dessert menu
是很新奇的事
is certainly novel.
不过真的有益健康
But it seemed like a really good fit.
-干杯 -干杯
- Cheers. - Cheers.
做上一款餐单的时候
When we did our last menu,
我们设法做了种提拉米苏 不过是醋底的
we were trying to do essentially a tiramisu, but a vinegar base.
我们用咖啡渣来做铁鲁[瓦片饼干]
We'd use coffee grounds to make the tuiles,
加入用椰子水自♥制♥的醋
and we'd add our own vinegar from coconut water.
少量加棕榈糖的牛奶酱
Little milk jam with palm sugar.
还有餐厅周围长的东西
Stuff that grows around the restaurant.
不过这样了无新意
But it was very boring.
所以我们得逆推有趣的部分
So we had to reverse engineer the interesting part.
我们觉得 如果我早上喝佳木 椰子汁和咖啡
We thought if I drank jamu, coconut water, and coffee in the morning,
那道菜品唯一缺的是佳木...
the only thing that that dish didn't have was the jamu...
缺的一定是这个
That must be the missing piece.
所以我们调了佳木 酸豆 黄姜 蜂蜜和青柠...
So we took jamu, tamarind, turmeric, honey, and lime...
然后刷到盘子上
and then brushed the plate with it.
你从各种咖啡和醋中
You pick up a lot of nuances in the coffee
会发现大量细微区别
and the vinegar from those accents.
相当于给照相机调焦
It's the equivalent of focusing a camera.
一个细节可以让其余味道成为焦点
When one thing brings the rest of the flavors into focus.
这个佛手瓜品相很好 应该是最好的
The chayote looks perfect. Like, couldn't be better.
味道十足 你从上次开始榨油的吗
Flavor is excellent. Did you crank up the oil from last time?
是的
Yes.
冰淇淋很棒 风格不够明确
The ice cream is excellent, it's just unclear what it is.
这明显不是高粱吧
It's not obviously sorghum to me.
得知道怎么加进更多味道 对吧
So we have to figure out how to get more flavor in there, right?
我去西班牙的时候
When I got to Spain,
人家说我要跟艾伯特·阿德里亚共事
I was told I was gonna be working with Albert Adrià.
"斗牛犬"的大量美食佳作出自艾伯特之手
Albert was behind a lot of the amazing things that came out of El Bulli.
像是他创造了新的流派
It was like he created a new genre.
不单是在糕点上 更是在餐厅方面
Not just for pastry, but for restaurants.
食物很明显是新奇 深刻 体贴的
The food was so obviously new and deep and thoughtful.
你知道自己有些与众不同
You knew you were somewhere special.
记得我曾跟艾伯特在街头散步 仰望一朵云
I remember walking down the street with Albert, looking at a cloud,
他说 "我想把那朵云造出来"
being like, "I wanna make that cloud."
然后他做到了
And he did do that.
看东西的眼界非常 非常不一般
That's a very, very different way of looking at things.
一切都是新的
Everything was new.
待在那样的地方令人着迷
It's mesmerizing to be in a place like that.
在那样的地方工作 你会觉得与众不同
When you work somewhere like that, you think you're special.
你就是宇宙的中心
You're the center of the universe.
自信心会爆表
Your confidence is high.
之后 对我来说
After that, for me,
新的最低标准 是努力成为世上最优秀的糕点师
the new minimum standard was to try to be the best in the world.
21世纪早期 纽约依然很像80年代
In the early 2000s, New York was pretty much still the '80s.
法式食物仍受推崇 甜品的上选是舒芙蕾[蛋奶酥]
French food was still revered. A great dessert was a soufflé.
威尔结束了"斗牛犬"餐厅的厨房♥工作...
Will comes back from working in the kitchen of El Bulli...
想带来这种新先锋主义时代
and wanted to bring in this new era of avant-gardism
还说 烹饪的境界高于人的想象
and say cooking can be about more than you think it can be.
我回到纽约时
When I got back to New York,
是从世界最佳餐厅过来的
I was coming from the best restaurant in the world.
哪里都想找我过去
Everyone wanted me to work for them.
我像个热门商品
I was a hot commodity.
我找了份活儿 与保罗·利布兰特工作
I got a job with a chef named Paul Liebrandt,
他那会在纽约脾气挺臭
who was the bad boy of New York at the moment.
他有家叫"蝴蝶犬"的餐厅
He had a place called Papillon.
对于要在那儿做什么 我有明确规划
I had a very clear agenda of what I wanted to do there.
在我看来 互动是有待开♥发♥的新领域
Doing interactive stuff was considered, by me, to be the next frontier.
我们有注射器 大量的感官剥夺
We had syringes, a lot of sensory deprivation.
蒙眼 黑暗
Blindfolding, darkness.
我记得我们还有手铐
I think we had some handcuffs in there.
再就是真正前卫的东西 比如洋葱汁冰块
And then the really edgy shit was, like, onion juice ice cubes.
还有不加冰的 只是味道真不咋样
Things that are just straight-up indisputably just not delicious.
主要是寻求刺♥激♥
It was about being provocative.
偶尔晚上很火爆 但一般是门可罗雀
And we had a couple of busy nights, but just no one came.
这是场试验性的灾难
It was an experimental catastrophe.
老板确信我们的方向跑偏了
The owners were sure the direction wasn't the right way to go.
后来我被炒了
And then I got fired.
威尔当时做的是疯狂科学家版的甜品
Will was doing the mad scientist version of desserts.
但广受欢迎的是很高端的奶奶风甜品
But what was popular was very upscale grandma food.
除非确实味道好
People in that era definitely weren't
否则那时肯定没人去试
doing something unless it tasted good.
蛋白酥是糕点基本的打底材料
Meringue is the fundamental structural underpinning of pastry.
就两种成分: 蛋白和糖
And it's only two things: egg white and sugar.
人人都爱蛋白酥 好吃极了
Everyone loves meringue. It's awesome.
问题是它很甜 不宜多吃
The problem is it's just sweet. It's just not edible.
想想就知道 在蛋白制♥作♥史上
If you can imagine that, in a history of meringue-making,
做少糖蛋白酥的理念 并不存在
the idea of a less sweet meringue, it just didn't exist.
这正是我认为
And that's a problem that I thought
我们有条件开始思考的问题
we were qualified to start thinking about.
我初登巴厘岛的时候
When I first got to Bali,
痴迷于这种无比天然的产品
I was obsessed with this incredible natural product
棕榈糖
which is palm sugar.
它是一种可再生的糖源
It's a renewable source of sugar.
尝一尝 你能吃出鲜味或香味
When you eat it, it has umami or savoriness
这远比甜味更抓人
that's more dominant to me than sweet.
我就萌生了个想法 用棕榈糖做"少糖"的蛋白酥
So I had this idea of using palm sugar to make a "less sweet" meringue.
我们花了近一年时间拿蛋白酥做实验
We spent about a year experimenting on this meringue.
测试了上千次
And we did thousands of tests.
成品的蛋白酥刚刚好
The final meringue is precise.