主厨的餐桌（2015）

我理解了哥哥们的激♥情♥
I understood the passion of my brothers.
我们喜欢在雷曼纳山谷散步
We like to take walks around the Llémena Valley.
我们的父母就是在赫罗纳的那个地方出生的
It's the part of Girona where our parents were born.
我们会去那里挖些土
We go and gather the dirt around there,
因为我们小时候玩的
because this is the dirt that
就是那里的土
we used to play in as children.
土壤在我们的菜单里出现 是为了诠释一种感觉
Dirt appears in our cooking as a way to explain a feeling,
来描述怀旧或者忧郁的情绪
to describe nostalgia or melancholy.
我们的记忆中都留着湿润土壤的芳香
We all have that aroma of moist earth in our memory.
所有人都是
All of us.
在任何文化里都有
From any culture.
所以这个配料才如此吸引人
That's why this ingredient is so magical.
我一直都想以自己的经历创作一道菜
I always wanted to have a dish that I had lived,
唤起我的记忆...
that connects me with that memory...
能够让我们所有人回想起家乡的感觉
of going back to a place that connects us all with our origin.
这是进入刚下过雨的森林的感觉
It's a trip to a forest where it had just rained.
所有人都玩过土 也都不小心吃到过
Everyone has played with soil and accidentally eaten it,
那个味道就在这里 在下丘脑里
and so that flavor is here in the hypothalamus,
和我们最原始的童年记忆一起存在那里
where the most primitive childhood memories are.
它能触动到那些记忆
And it touched those memories.
通过蒸馏过程
Through the distillation process,
土壤会变成了一种十分重要的材料
dirt turns into an extraordinarily important ingredient.
霍尔迪的甜点
Jordi, with his dessert,
把湿润土壤的气息变得有意义
has made this flavor of moist earth make sense.
当你品尝的时候
When you taste it,
会被传送到一个不同的地方
you're transported to a different place.
雨后森林... 他们说这是一道甜点
The Rainy Forest... They say it's a dessert,
但我更觉得它是一个巨大的惊喜
but I actually believe it's a great surprise.
当这份甜点被端上餐桌的时候
And when the dessert arrives at the table,
巨大的惊喜是
the big surprise is how,
在顾客的面前 把一小块冰
from a little ball of ice in front of the customer,
变成了一根冰笋
a stalagmite is created.
这是一个惊喜 是一场游戏
So it's the surprise. It's the game.
非常有霍尔迪的风格
It's very Jordi.
大概八♥九♥个月过去了 达米安教了我很多东西
After eight, nine months, Damian taught me a lot.
但我知道我需要学习更多
But I knew I needed to learn more.
当时是夏天 大概六七月份
It was summer. It was June or July.
我住在餐厅的楼上
I was living above Can Roca.
那是一个早晨 我九点一刻起来
It was morning, and I woke up at 9:15.
看向窗外
I looked out the window.
看见一个服务生在停车场
I saw a waiter in the parking lot.
他大喊着 "霍尔迪 你听说达米安的事了吗"
And he yelled up, "Jordi, did you hear what happened to Damian?"
我很害怕
I was scared.
惊慌不已
It was terrible chaos.
达米安·奥尔索普 我们的糕点师 出事了
Damian Allsop, our pastry chef, had an accident.
一天晚上 他把钥匙忘家里了
One night, he left his keys at home.
他想爬上阳台 结果从三楼摔下来了
And he fell from the third floor, trying to climb to his balcony.
我出去参加派对
I went out partying,
然后我爬上了墙
and then I climbed up the side of a wall,
但是我有点头晕 就放手了
but I kind of got a bit dizzy and let go.
所以我就直挺挺摔下来了
So I fell, uh, standing up,
我的两只脚同时有三个地方骨折
and both of my feet are broke in three places,
我的背上有两个地方骨折
and my back in two places.
医生进来说
The doctor came in and said,
"好了 你有六个月时间不能走路了"
"Okay, you're not gonna walk for six months."
我说 "什么 不不 不行"
And I said, "What? No, no, no."
我得作出决定
I had to make the decision.
这当然是非常重要的担子
It's certainly a very important responsibility.
我不想给霍尔迪压力
I didn't want to have to put pressure on Jordi.
我很慌
I was in a panic.
越来越焦虑 焦虑到肚子疼
My anxiety rose. My stomach burned.
心跳快到不行
My heart beat fast as hell.
我该怎么办 怎么办
What do I do? What do I do?
为了餐厅 我得拼了
For the restaurant, I had to wake up.
不 他没有心理准备 没有
No, he wasn't ready. He wasn't.
没有谁有心理准备
Nobody would be.
达米安有份食谱档案 里面有所有的食谱
Damian had a recipe file where he had all his recipes.
全都是用英文写的
And all of them were in English.
我说 "行吧 先做我懂的"
I said, "Okay, let's do what I know."
我不得不一件一件来
I was forced to not do one thing at a time,
但是 我又必须得同时盯着十五二十件
but, rather, I had to keep track of 15 or 20 things at a time.
我只好多跑动
I had to run more.
开始变得更敏捷
Start to be more agile.
我朋友不理解
My friends didn't understand.
"你怎么了 疯了吗 咱们出去吧"
"What's happening to you? Are you crazy? Let's go out!"
我不想去参加派对
I didn't want to go out partying.
我发现自己是最后走出厨房♥的 但是很开心
I found myself leaving last, but very happy.
那就像果冻一样 不是意式的吗
That would have to be like a jelly. Not the Italian kind?
那时我们都密切留意着霍尔迪的活
We were staying on top of Jordi at that time.
我们看着 很清楚他在干什么
We were watching. We were very aware of what he was doing.
我们当时是米其林一星餐厅 也算小有名气
We had one Michelin star. We had some recognition.
让一个初出茅庐的新手
And it was a risk having
来掌控全局 这是铤而走险之举
someone who was just starting in the field.
一开始 霍尔迪
In the beginning, Jordi was
制♥作♥他从达米安那里学到的甜点
making the desserts he learned from Damian.
不算太差
They were not that bad.
但也不算出彩
But they were not extraordinary either.
当时 有很多的感情和伙伴关系
At that time, there was much affection and partnership,
饱受赞誉 但缺乏专业指点
much fraternity, but not professional admiration.
我记得第一次开♥发♥菜品
I remember the first time I invented a dish.
仅在每周四供应
It was for customers who came every Thursday.
他们让我上点新东西
They asked me to prepare something new for them.
我问自己 "现在怎么办"
I said to myself, "What do I do now?"
我想过冰淇淋 冰慕斯
I imagined a cream, a frozen mousse,
用巧克力和覆盆子来做
made of chocolate and raspberries,
很基础
very basic.
我在脑海想象这种味道
I imagined the taste in my head.
这是全新的味道
It would be new.
会很棒的
It would be fantastic.
我把它拿出冻柜
When I took it out of the
切块摆盘以后...
freezer and cut it and put it on the plate...
跟我脑海里的样子大相径庭
it looked nothing like what I had in my head.
但尝过的人知道 我还在学习
But the nice people who had it understood I was learning.
对于他们来说 这过程很迷人
And for them, it's a good story.
但成品太差劲了
But it was a piece of shit.
有一次霍尔迪跟我们说
There was a moment when Jordi told us,
"我要去上冰淇淋课
"I'm going to take an ice cream class,
因为这东西很复杂 我想掌握"
because the subject is complicated and I want to master it."
这很重要
It was very important
因为有必要认识到
because it's necessary to realize that,
其实你一无所知
actually, you don't know anything.
那一整周 我们只聊冰淇淋
That whole week, we only talked about ice cream.
我以前不知道冰淇淋还有那么深入的讨论空间
I didn't know it was possible to go that in depth into ice cream.
有一天 老师谈到
One day, the teacher talked
空气对冰淇淋何其重要
about how the air is important for an ice cream.
空气洁净十分重要
It is very important that the air is completely clean.
这样冰淇淋才不会吸收杂味
So the ice cream does not absorb odors.
才不会有别的味道
So it does not add another flavor.
我回到家 换了个角度考虑这件事
I went home and thought the other way around.
那时候 餐厅里还可以抽烟
At the time, smoking was permitted in the restaurant.
大家都抽雪茄
Everyone smoked cigars,
于是我想到了雪茄的气味...
and I had that aroma in mind...
无论何时进入餐厅 都可以闻到的烟草香气
the smell of tobacco, whenever entering the restaurant.
我想到用罗加兄弟餐厅的机器
And I imagined the machine
收集烟草的味道
in Can Roca absorbing the scent of tobacco.
有一天 一个早晨
And one day, in the morning,
厨房♥里没有人
nobody was in the kitchen.
我拿了一根雪茄
I took a cigar.
点燃 把烟吹进冰淇淋机
I smoked the cigar and blew the smoke into the ice cream machine,
让冰淇淋捕捉到那部分空气
so the ice cream captured that part of the air.