主厨的餐桌（2015）

他开始教我关于诺托的生活 "西西里咖啡"的生活
He started to teach me about life in Noto and at Caffè Sicilia.
他说 糕点师的工作
He said the work of the pastry
就是要做出经典的意大利点心
chef is to make the classic Italian pastries.
但是 光知道烹饪技巧是不够的
But it isn't enough to know kitchen techniques.
你需要认识来自大自然的原料
You have to recognize raw materials in nature
尊重这片土地
and respect the land.
客人们必须在尝到我们的点心时
The customers must be able to see the ingredient's quality
感受到食材质量的不同
when they taste our pastries.
在厨房♥ 我是最能够放开自己的
The laboratory was the place where I felt most like myself.
那里就是我的家
It was my home.
我们要为真纳罗·埃斯波西托做些什么
What do we have to do for Gennaro Esposito?
我们要做四个1.5公斤的卡萨塔冰淇淋
We have to make four 1.5 kilo cassata,
150个炸饭球 120个奶油甜馅煎饼卷
150 arancini, 120 cannoli,
120块杏仁饼干 还有杏仁膏
120 almond biscuits. There's almond paste...
20 30克一份
20 30-gram ones...
我们还得把炸饭球带到卡塔尼亚去炸
and we have to bring the arancini to Catania to fry them.
奶油甜馅煎饼卷是西西里的点心
The cannoli is the Sicilian pastry.
起源于西西里 世界都知道这是起源于西西里岛的食物
They were born in Sicily, and the world knows them as Sicilian.
准备面团的时候
The dough preparation,
要一个一个做 全靠手工
one by one, all by hand,
全部都一样大小
all consistently equal.
必须保持准确 快速 做的完美
You must be accurate, fast, to make it perfect.
我是跟罗贝尔托大♥师♥学的
I learned from the lessons of Maestro Roberto,
我又教给了我的儿子 弗朗西斯科
and I passed it down to my son, Francesco.
他还小的时候 经常来我们的厨房♥
As a boy, he used to come to our kitchen,
拿个擀面杖 开始擀奶油甜馅煎饼卷的面团
and, with a rolling pin, started flattening the cannoli dough,
身上弄的都是面粉
covering himself with flour.
现在 他跟我一起干活的时候
Now, when he works with me,
虽然身上不会再弄的满身面粉了
he no longer covers himself with flour,
不过还是在擀面团
but he still flattens the cannoli.
我们做奶油卷已经做了好几代人了
We've made our cannoli for generations.
你可以辨认出我们每个人做的奶油甜馅煎饼卷
You can recognize the cannoli stretched out by each of us,
因为我们使用擀面杖的方式不同 各有各的风格
adding our own personality with our rolling pins,
所以当奶油甜馅煎饼卷做好时
so that, when the cannolo is finished,
它就成为了"西西里咖啡"不容错认的标志
it becomes the unmistakable icon of Caffè Sicilia.
我童年大部分时间都和我的老师
I had spent years of my childhood in the laboratory
罗贝尔托·朱斯托在厨房♥里度过
with my teacher, Roberto Giusto.
而后我慢慢长大成人
And then I grew up.
我生长于60年代
I'm a child of the '60s
我身边发生的一切影响着我
and was influenced by everything happening around me.
我想要探索世界
I wanted to discover the world,
去学习我在西西里岛学不到的东西
to learn more than I could in Sicily.
当时我喜欢农耕生活
I liked the farmer's life,
所以当我17岁的时候
so when I was 17,
我离开了诺托 去博洛尼亚的大学读农学专业
I left Noto to study agriculture in Bologna at the university.
新的征程让我有所成长
My new adventure allowed me to grow,
教我从另一个角度去看世界
to observe the world from another point of view.
我师从于一位很棒的养蜂人
I studied with a great beekeeper,
他给我上了
who gave me my first
如何解读蜜蜂语言的第一堂课
lessons on decoding the language of the bees.
我们观察了蜜蜂舞蹈的剧烈程度
We observed the intensity of the bees' dance.
蜜蜂背部的震动程度越激烈
The more bees move their back,
就离花蜜越近 花蜜的香味也越浓
the closer, the more intense, the stronger the nectar is.
我觉得这非常奇妙
I was fascinated.
激发了我对这个行业的热情
It became my great passion.
也在那时 我爱上了一位护士 她叫妮维斯
During that time, I fell in love with a nurse, Nives.
和我一样 她也在厨房♥里长大
Like me, she grew up in a kitchen.
于是我们一起在博洛尼亚安了家
Together, we built a life in Bologna.
后来有一天 我接到一个电♥话♥
Then, one day, this phone call came.
说我姑妈病了
My aunt was sick
"西西里咖啡"要经营不下去了
and could no longer keep Caffè Sicilia.
我姑妈说 "我再也做不动了
My aunt told me, "I cannot do it anymore.
你要是不接手 我们就只能卖♥♥了它"
Either you take care of it, or we'll lose it."
我立刻想到的是
The first thing I immediately thought was,
"如果我姑妈把'西西里咖啡'卖♥♥掉
"If my aunt sells Caffè Sicilia,
我就再也进不去厨房♥了
I cannot get in the laboratory.
我再也没法去我的游戏室玩了"
I will not be able to go to my playroom anymore."
我和妮维斯商量着 "怎么办呢"
Nives and I discussed, "What do we do?"
那时 我爱着两件事
In that moment, there were two loves in my life:
我在博洛尼亚的生活
my life in Bologna
和我在诺托的生活
and my life in Noto.
我的家乡
My roots.
那是个非常艰难的抉择
It was a very difficult moment.
最终 我们选择了糕点店
Ultimately, we chose the pastry shop.
我们放下了一切 回到了家
We left everything and returned home.
她在这
There she is.
来 来
Here, here.
小心
Careful.
好姑娘
Good girl.
过来
Come here.
做糕点并不需要工厂
To make pastries, you don't need industry.
我需要买♥♥原材料时
When purchasing raw materials,
就会直接去身边的农民那
I go directly to the farmers of our land.
人如果不上心
There is no quality in the ingredient
是挑选不到好原料的
if there is no quality in the person that produces it.
所以就要去找那些明白他们的工作多么重要的农民
So you need to find farmers who understand quality in their work.
弗兰佐是位很棒的牧羊人及干酪供货商
Franzo, our great shepherd and ricotta producer,
每天从凌晨2点半一直忙到半夜
works from 2:30 A.M. to midnight,
人工挤500多只动物的奶 只为做出最棒的干酪
hand milking over 500 animals to make the ricotta perfect.
弗兰佐为人有口皆碑 极其严谨认真
Franzo is a person of quality, extremely serious and rigorous.
但大家对他的工作一无所知
But the public doesn't know anything about his work,
我觉得太遗憾了
and that's a huge regret for me.
我希望他能为他的家庭和奶场
I want him to succeed
开创出一片美好的未来
in giving a future to his family and his farm.
所以我让我的朋友们了解弗兰佐的产品
So I made my friends appreciate Franzo's products,
包括厨师 披萨师 糕点师
cooks, pizza makers, pastry chefs,
现在他们也买♥♥他的奶酪
and now they buy his cheeses.
他总会谢谢我 因为我帮他这些忙
He always thanks me for what I am doing for him,
但是其实 我才应该谢谢他
but it's me who should constantly thank him.
如果没有弗兰佐的辛勤工作
The gelato I make with the ricotta,
我就没有办法用乳清奶酪做出朗姆酒
flavored with rum and chopped pistachios,
和开心果碎风味的意式冰淇淋
would be impossible without Franzo's work.
这是我的职责
It's my duty,
如果他给我完美的乳清干酪 我就要做出完美的意式冰淇淋
if he gives me his perfect ricotta, to make the perfect gelato.
七年之后 我又回到了"西西里咖啡"
After seven years, I was back at Caffè Sicilia.
尽管我小的时候在厨房♥待了很长时间
Even though, as a kid, I spent a lot of time in the lab,
我还是没有真正弄明白糕点师的工作是什么
I didn't really understand the job of a pastry chef.
而现在我要负责一切事情
And now, I was responsible for everything.
我不知所措
I was lost.
我有问题 非常多的问题
I had questions, many questions.
我去找罗贝尔托大♥师♥求助
I turned to Maestro Roberto.
但是他告诉我 "我不会教你任何事情
But he told me, "I'm not going to teach you anything.
这里不是学校
This is not school.
这是你来工作的地方
This is a place where you work.
你必须要独♥立♥"
You have to be independent."
所以我就花时间观察罗贝尔托的工作
So I spent my time watching Roberto work.
我通过观察来学习
I learned by looking,
看着他的手是如何做出佳肴
watching his hands making the recipes,
直到我也能开始做出来
until I was able to start doing it.
一点一点地 我终于
Little by little, I was able
找到了自己的学习方式 不用问问题
to find my way of understanding, without asking.
最终 我觉得自己能够管理好糕点店了
Finally, I felt able to manage the pastry shop.
我们要把它们全部染成粉色吗
Do we have to make them all pink?
全染成粉色 就像粉玫色的裙子一样...
All pink, like the fuchsia dress...
所以我要把它染成粉色 还有白色的小花
So I'm making that fuchsia, with little white flowers.
我们用鲜奶油来做白色的花
We'll make the white flowers with whipped cream spikes,
或者我们可以用糖霜杏仁...
or maybe we could put sugared almonds...
如果它们不会和奶油一起化掉就好了 可惜会化掉
if they wouldn't melt with the cream, but they'll melt,
所以我们要做白色奶油
so we're gonna make white cream.
久而久之 只关注厨房♥内的工作
Over time, it became increasingly difficult