主厨的餐桌（2015）

变得越来越困难
to focus only on the work inside of the kitchen.
西西里变得商业化
Sicily had become commercialized.
以前曾经是蔬菜园的地方
Where there were once vegetable gardens,
现在都被用来建购物中心了
those lands were used to build shopping centers.
虚假的城市 人们不买♥♥新鲜的产品 只买♥♥泡在防腐剂里的
Fake cities, where you don't buy fresh. You buy preserved.
这也能叫做文明吗
And you call that civilization?
这是无知
This is ignorance.
我知道西西里到处都还存在着高质量的产品
I knew there was still quality everywhere in Sicily.
我需要让这个世界看到
I needed to make the world understand the difference
商业化的产品
between a commercialized
和这里出产的高质量产品的不同
product and the quality born in this land.
我想着 "我们能生产什么非常独特
I considered, "What can we get from our land
又比别的地方质量更好的东西呢"
that's unique and higher quality than from elsewhere?"
然后我就想起来了
And I remembered
杏子
the apricot.
杏子酱是小孩们第一次吃到的果酱
The apricot is the first jam children eat.
但他们吃到的是工业化的产品
But what they know is an industrialized product.
在"西西里咖啡" 我们还用着125年前的方式
We have always made our marmalade the same way
来制♥作♥果酱
for 125 years at Caffè Sicilia.
所以我研究了杏子
So, I worked on the apricot.
把它变得现代化 符合当下的潮流
I modernized it, made it current,
减少添加的糖分
reducing the added sugar
为了保留新鲜水果的纯正感
to respect the purity of the fresh fruit.
我开始用在西西里找到的食材
And I began making all of the other timeless recipes
来创造各种永恒的食谱
with the ingredients I find here in Sicily:
卡萨塔冰淇淋 奶油煎饼卷 乳清干酪冰淇淋
the cassata, the cannoli, the ricotta gelato.
现在每次有小孩吃到我的杏子酱
Now, every time a child tastes my apricot jam,
我感受到的是快乐
I feel joy.
制♥作♥杏子酱让我明白了
Making my apricot jam helped me to understand
"西西里咖啡"的立业之基
the foundation of Caffè Sicilia.
我找到了自己的目标
I discovered my purpose.
那些蟠桃很棒
Those Saturn peaches are great.
给我来两斤吧
Can you give me a kilo?
等等 杏 再来一个
Wait, an apricot. There's another one.
谢谢 祝你愉快 再见
Thanks. Have a nice day. Goodbye.
千禧年过不久
By the early 2000s,
在耕耘千篇一律的配方配料多年后
after years of working with the same recipes and ingredients,
我想更进一步
I wanted to do more.
我想要开♥发♥新口味
I was looking to build new flavor,
在甜点领域 推进甜的边界
to push the boundaries of sweetness in dessert.
于是我就看到了冰沙
And there I saw my granita.
我自问 "这东西要怎么做呢"
I asked myself, "What can we serve with it?"
我开始思考大海的感觉
I started thinking about the feeling of the sea,
那种打开牡蛎的感觉
the feeling you get when you open an oyster.
这种想法呼之欲出
It dawned on me.
将两者结合
Put them together,
牡蛎和杏仁
the oyster and the almond.
促成绝无可能的一对
Marry the two that would otherwise never marry.
结实而强健
It was strong, robust.
我认为 这达到了完美的平衡
I thought it was the perfect balance.
咸水和甜味
The combination of salt water
相融合 就像咬开鲜果
and that sweetness, like biting into fresh fruit.
所有滋味于口中迸发时
When all that exploded in my mouth,
我想 "这味道似曾相识"
I thought, "I have already tasted this."
回忆涌上心头
And memories came back.
灵感由此而生
It inspired me.
我意识到 可以利用童年的味道
I realized I could use the taste of my childhood
来开♥发♥新的甜味
to create a new sweetness,
这是糕点制♥作♥的一项创举
something that didn't exist in pastry making.
我不断开♥发♥ 越来越多 越来越多
So I created more and more, more and more, more and more.
我开始淡化甜与咸的界限
I started to bring down barriers between sweet and salty.
这在西西里菜式中被认为是离经叛道
This was considered heresy in Sicilian cuisine.
顾客毫不买♥♥账
Our customers didn't like it at all.
他们喜欢经典的西西里风格
They wanted the classics of Caffè Sicilia.
他的想法是无止境的
His thoughts are boundless,
但通常
but, as is often the case,
自吹自擂不成器
no one is a prophet in their own country.
我们失去了顾客们的信任
We had lost the trust of the customers.
传承了四代的技艺陷入困境
Four generations of tradition, in trouble.
我束手无策的时候 总是会让罗贝尔托过来
I'd always had Roberto near when I didn't know what to do.
但那会儿 他病了
But in that moment, he got sick.
他再也走不了路
He was no longer able to walk
没法来"西西里咖啡"
and was not able to come into Caffè Sicilia.
我没法向他征求意见 了解他会怎么做
I couldn't ask for advice on what he would have done.
之后他就去世了
And then he passed away.
实在是一大憾事
It was a huge loss.
我孤身一人了
I was alone.
他把重担留给了我
He left me with a huge responsibility.
我问自己 "要是罗贝尔托大♥师♥在这
I asked myself, "If Maestro Roberto was here now,
他会怎么做"
what would he do?"
我想起了他教我的
I thought about what he taught me,
如何用优质原料制♥作♥基本配方
how to make the basic recipes with quality ingredients.
但最重要的成分岌岌可危
But the most important ingredient was at risk.
因为罗马杏
So, while the Romana almond
成了我国最著名的杏种...
has become the most famous almond of our land...
本地杏一杏难求
There's very few of them.
在西西里岛
Here in Sicily,
有很多对这个小岛来说很特别的食材
you have so many ingredients that are special to this island,
但是很多都已经绝种了
but a lot of these things were disappearing.
比如 西西里本地杏
For example, Sicilian almonds.
罗马杏 来了 来了
Romana, here it is. Here it is. Here it is.
我得搞清楚是怎么回事
I needed to figure out what was happening.
于是我就去找农场主
So, I went to the farmers.
他们说 问题在于经销商
They told me that the big problem was the traders,
认为杏仁不值得投资
who decided the almond was not worth investing money in.
因此 农民们放弃了土地
As a result, the farmers abandoned the land.
那是一次惨败
It was a massacre.
没了杏仁 我做不出杏仁沙冰
Without the almond, I couldn't make almond granita.
"西西里咖啡"的独特味道在慢慢消失
The taste of Caffè Sicilia was disappearing.
我必须得做点什么
I had to do something.
因此我制定了一套解救杏仁的方案
So I put together a plan to save the almond.
我们跳过经销商
We would cut out the traders,
这样农民可以直接把杏仁卖♥♥给我们
so the farmers could sell the almond directly to us.
我们把这种模式在农民中扩散开来
We started to spread it among the farmers.
我得说服他们为杏仁而战
I had to convince them to fight for the almond
因为这是文化传承
because it's a cultural heritage.
因为它会一去不复返
Because if it disappears, it will never come back.
那个过程长久而缓慢
It was a long and slow process,
但最终他们同意与我们合作
but eventually they wanted to work with us.
我们把它带到米兰的美食展
We brought it to the taste expo in Milan.
从那时起
From that moment on,
世界开始知道西西里杏仁的存在
the world knew of the existence of our almond.
然后 我回到厨房♥研究
Then, I went back to the laboratory to work on a new recipe
能展现杏仁特色的食谱
to highlight the almond.
特拉诺斯特拉由两层雪糕组成
The Terra Nostra is made of two layers of sorbet:
一层白杏仁的和一层绿开心果的
a layer of white almond and a layer of green pistachio.
特拉诺斯特拉代表着"我们的土地"
It's called the Terra Nostra because it represents "Our land."
我们需要有人
We need somebody to be at
向工业化食品现状开战
war with the industrialized food situation,
像科拉多这样的领袖
somebody like Corrado.
科拉多拯救了诺托的杏仁
Corrado saves Noto's almond,
也拯救了传统的西西里糕点制♥作♥
but also saves traditional Sicilian pastry making.
如今我们谈到杏仁 一切多亏了科拉多
If today we talk about the almond, it's thanks to Corrado.
我找回了我的目标
I rediscovered my purpose,
那就是 保卫我的家乡 我的西西里
to preserve my land, my Sicily.
西西里在随着时间改变
Sicily is changing over time.
许多小生意 小店都消失了
Many of the small businesses, shops, are gone.
但历经四代人 "西西里咖啡"存活了下来
But after four generations, Caffè Sicilia has remained.
它变成一条生机勃勃的溪流
It has become a lively stream,
流水流经岩石之间 清新而鲜活
water flowing among rocks, fresh,