主厨的餐桌（2015）

地中海和比利牛斯山之间
the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrenees.
是世界上最宜居的 也是最适合做饭的地方
It's the best city in the world in which to live and to cook.
霍尔迪在香气中找到了灵感
Jordi finds inspiration in aromas.
环境中的香气 森林里的
Fragrances that are in the environment, in the forest,
自然环境中的
in the natural surroundings.
就在看起来不会有新事物浮现的时候...
When it seems like nothing new can emerge...
特别是已经做了很久的情况下 当当当 一个新菜的灵感
Because you have done so many already. Bam! A new dish comes
迸发了出来
from that inspiration.
牧羊人曼纽尔来找我们
Manel, the sheep farmer, came to see us.
给我们带了瑞博内萨羊的羊奶
And he brought us some sheep's milk from the Ripollesa breed.
这种羊产奶量不多
They don't make much milk,
但产奶的质量很高
but the quality of the
所含的蛋白质使其味道非常好
breed and the protein have an awesome flavor.
他打算进口这种羊 拯救这个品种
He had decided to import them and rescue the breed.
这是个新品种
It was completely new.
我们想在餐厅里用这种羊奶做一款新的焦糖牛奶酱
At the restaurant, we wanted to make a new dulce de leche
因为这种羊奶是新品 非常难得
with that sheep's milk. It was rare. It was new.
当时正好我侄子马蒂快要出生
This was around the time my nephew Marti was born.
我闻到马蒂的时候 闻起来一身奶味
When I would smell him, Marti would smell like milk.
想想都是温柔一刻
It was a tender moment.
这种羊奶赋予了焦糖牛奶酱
That sheep's milk makes a
一种绝妙的甜蜜
dulce de leche with a spectacular sweetness.
我们就说 "既然有这种焦糖牛奶酱
And we said, "With this dulce de leche,
那一定要用它做款甜点"
we need to make a dessert."
我们以这种羊元素为灵感做了款甜点
We made a dessert based on the elements of that sheep.
底层是羊奶做的焦糖牛奶酱
There's a base of sheep's milk dulce de leche,
加一层泡沫状的羊奶干酪
a foam of sheep's milk cheese,
再来一块羊奶冰淇淋
sheep's milk ice cream.
再加块棉花糖云 当作羊毛
Another part is the cotton candy cloud, like sheep's wool.
我们闻婴儿的头都有种奶味
All babies smell like milk when you smell their heads.
因为他们都是吃奶长大的
They do so because that's what they eat.
这款甜点是对那份柔情的赞颂
This dish is a tribute to that tenderness.
像是哄婴儿入眠
It's like putting a baby to bed.
油炸饼
Churro!
-好吃吧 -好吃
- Good! - Good!
霍尔迪是个非常淘气的男孩 是的
Jordi was naughty, a naughty boy, yes, yes.
这很正常 男孩们都挺淘气的
It's normal. They all do it.
但霍尔迪是那种 我们现在来搞点什么事呢
But, well, what are we going to do? He is like that.
霍尔迪的情况
Jordi's situation is probably
在我们兄弟三人中是最复杂的
the most complicated of the three of us.
和霍尔迪在一起 总是有种距离感
With Jordi, there's distance.
他其实已经是另一代人了
He practically belongs to a different generation.
但事实上 我们开餐厅的时候
But the truth is that, when we started the restaurant,
都希望霍尔迪能来工作
we were expecting Jordi to work here,
但我们不清楚他是不是真的喜欢这个
but we did not know if he would be fully committed to this.
我对自己想做什么不是很确定
I wasn't clear about what I wanted to do.
哥哥们成天在餐厅里救场
My brothers spent the day in the restaurant putting out fires,
如此忙碌 我不理解他们
doing so much. I didn't get it.
我想着 "这不适合我 这些人疯了"
I thought, "This is not for me. These guys are crazy."
我最后做了服务生 因为他们缺人手
I ended up as a waiter because it was where they needed help.
我当时大概19或20岁吧
I was 19 or 20.
我和其他年轻人一样
I was just partying, going to the disco,
天天去派对 蹦迪 喝得大罪
getting drunk like any teenager.
经常这样过日子 和其他人一样 但我多做了一点
A lot, like everyone. I just did a little more.
我凌晨2点收工
I would finish working at 2:00 in the morning,
因为服务生最后走
because the waiters finished last.
所以我说 我要去厨房♥
And so I said I wanted to be in the kitchen.
我要做厨师 这样我就能早点收工
I became a cook, so I could leave earlier.
我当时只是把做厨师这件事当工作看待
I viewed my work as just a job.
工作结束 我就不去想它
Afterwards, I would forget about it.
但哥哥们注意到了 因为我工作的时候
But they noticed it, because when I was working,
犯了错也不在乎
I made mistakes and I didn't care.
其实是因为我看不见和他们在一起的未来
It was because I didn't see a future with them.
我想象不到自己十年后
I didn't see myself, in ten years,
能和他们成为搭档
being in a partnership with them.
我是这个家的一份子
I was part of the family,
所以感觉自己和哥哥们不一样挺难受的
so feeling apart from them was hard.
理所当然的
By inertia, he came to
他问都没问就直接来我们店工作了
work with us without having any conviction.
他很清楚 "哥哥们会给我份工作的
He knows that, "My brothers are going to give me work.
我会有事做的"
I'll have something to do."
他能早从厨房♥脱身绝不多留
He'd try to leave as early as possible,
有时候甚至没做完分内的事就跑了
sometimes without finishing what he was doing.
霍尔迪心里没有火花
There was no spark inside Jordi.
没有对厨业的热情
There was no passion.
不错
Very good.
来试试...我不确定 我觉得黄色比金色的要好
To try... I don't know. I prefer the yellow one, huh? Than gold.
我说不好 你觉得怎么样
I don't know. What do you think?
我在罗加兄弟餐厅里大概工作了...
I got mixed up in the Roca business, um...
...20年左右 我是他们的糕点师
...20-odd years ago, working as their pastry chef.
有两种果泥 一个是可可的 还有一个是...
There were two purees. A cocoa one and a...
古布阿苏果
Cupuaçu.
古布阿苏... 更好一点
The Cupuaçu... it's better.
味道更浓一些 和可可属于同一种植物
It's much more powerful. From the cocoa family.
霍尔迪当时还不算是餐厅的成员
Jordi really wasn't part of El Celler then.
他只是外♥围♥人物
He was just on the periphery.
他的心也不在那儿
And he wasn't there mentally.
我们最终追求的是这样的
In the end, the effect we are looking for is this.
果肉和籽
This pulp. The bean.
是的 几乎是反过来的
Yeah, it's almost the reverse.
果肉在籽外面
The pulp, the outside of the seed.
我们要做成这样
We'll make this.
他当时还是个孩子
He was a young kid.
他经常出去玩 我有时候会见到他
He was out and I'd see him a couple of times,
因为我也在外面玩
'cause I was out as well.
我年轻的时候很喜欢去参加派对
I was a little party-goer in my time.
有时候我会在某个广场上见到他
And I would see him sometimes in a field somewhere,
正和我往相反的方向走着 在凌晨四点钟
going one way and me going the other, 4:00 in the morning.
我基本上看不到他参与厨房♥的事情
And I just didn't see him involved with the kitchen.
有一天 胡安说到这个事情
One day, Joan was talking about the situation.
霍尔迪很不听话 弄得胡安有些心灰意冷
Jordi was being a pain in the ass, and Joan was a bit frustrated.
他们也没有什么解决办法
They didn't have any solutions.
我能感觉到他们的家族压力
I could feel the family pressure there.
罗加一家是很内向的 他们把事情留在自己心里
The Rocas are kind of internal. They deal with their own things.
所以他们跟我说起这个问题
So for them to mention that problem to me in the first place
本身就是不同寻常的事情了
was something a little bit out of the ordinary.
他们很担心 又不知道该怎么做
They were concerned, and they weren't sure what to do.
我就说 "把他交给我
So I said, "Just leave him with me.
让他来跟我做甜点 看看这样行不行"
Just pass him over to the pastry. We'll see what we can do."
达米安来的时候 我去跟着他干活了
When Damian arrived, I worked with him,
因为他和胡安让我这么做
because he and Joan asked me to.
但是我发现达米安做的甜点很有趣
But I noticed Damian cooked fun things.
他对自己的工作充满了激♥情♥
He was passionate about what he did.
我能感觉到
And I could feel it.
当我和我的哥哥们在餐厅工作时
When I started with my brothers in the restaurant,
我被当成老板的儿子一样对待
I was treated like the boss' son,
那样对我很不好
and it was bad for me.
达米安把我当做正常人一样对话
Damian spoke to me man-to-man, like a normal person.
我走神的时候 他会吼我
And when I had trouble concentrating, he'd yell at me.
他会喊 "该死的霍尔迪·罗加"
He'd say, "Jordi-fucking-Roca!"
他会骂我 我就说 "好了 好了"
He'd insult me, and I'd say, "Okay, okay!"
不过就像我活该被骂一样 我也知道自己活该
But it was like I deserved it, and I knew I deserved it.
当我们做小蛋糕的时候
When we were cooking a petit four,
我必须要迅速做好 这样才能保持一致
I had to work quick, so everything would be stable.
但是有一天 我变得有些激动
But one day, I got excited because,
因为在一定的温度下 果冻被冻上了
at a certain temperature, the jelly set.
当他告诉我为什么要这么做之后
When he told me the reason why we did that, in that way,
我明白了细节的重要性
I understood the importance of the details.
我说 "哇哦 我喜欢这样"
And I said, "Wow! I like it!"
我明白了厨房♥的运作规则
I understood the game of the kitchen.