主厨的餐桌（2015）

基本上 我是在卫♥生♥部♥门
I basically was put on double
双重秘密考察下
secret probation by the health department.
简直像地狱一样
And I was in hell.
那时候百福餐厅正在摸着石头过河
This is when Momofuku was really flying by the seat of its pants,
所以我们需要帮助
and we needed help.
我给怀利·迪弗雷纳打电♥话♥ 他说
I called Wylie Dufresne, and he's like,
"我这里有人可以去帮你"
"I have someone that can help you out."
我记得午餐的时候
I remember going in for
去了店里 因为我想看看这个人是谁
lunch because I wanted to check this guy out.
当时戴维正在训一个厨师
And Dave was just crushing a cook,
狠狠地训他 因为有道菜没做好
just laying into him because something wasn't done properly.
几分钟之后
A few minutes later, he's
他把所有人都赶出了厨房♥
pushing everyone out of the way in the kitchen,
他一只手拿着拖把
and he's got a mop in one
另一只手拿着万能清洁剂
hand and a bottle of all-purpose cleaner,
往地板上喷 再用拖把使劲擦地
spraying down the floor and mopping the floor vigorously.
他就在里面 尽全力擦地
He's the one in there, just grinding it out.
他的那种高尚
And that's the salt-of-the-earth
是我从小被教导着要拥有的品质
stuff that I was raised to be like and for.
那时我就知道 我要尽自己所能来帮助他
I knew that I would do whatever I could to help this guy out.
我雇她的目的就是
I hired her specifically
为了和卫♥生♥部♥门搞好关系
to get me back into the good graces of the health department.
她对这方面很在行
She was so great at it.
我跟她说 "天哪 我需要有人帮我负责办公室
I was like, "My God, I need someone to help me in the office.
你处理文件做得很好 能过来帮我吗"
You're so good at paperwork stuff. Can you help me out here?"
他带我出去吃了午餐 给我了一份工作
He took me out to lunch and offered me a job.
怎么样了
How's it looking?
很好 最后再刮几下就好了
Great. Just doing the final scrape.
太好吃了
So good.
-谢谢你 -闻起来很香
- Thank you. - Smells delicious.
谢谢
Thank you.
你好 大家好
Hi. Hi, guys.
你好
Hello.
-一切都顺利吗 都还好吗 -是的
-Everything going okay? ¿Todo bien? -Sí.
和戴维一起工作非常不同
The job with Dave was a different kind of job.
我要成为设备管♥理♥员♥
It was becoming a facilities manager,
要做运营总监
becoming the director of operations.
我在帮助管理生意
I was helping run a business.
所以我的烘焙技能以一种奇怪的方式隐退了
So, in a weird way, my bakingness retreated.
第二周之后 戴维意识到
After week two, Dave realized that he was getting,
他对我有了稍微不同的看法
maybe, a slightly different version of me.
戴维直接叫我出来
Dave just straight-up called me out
跟我说 "你以前是怀利的糕点师
and was like, "Hey, you used to be a pastry cook for Wylie.
他跟我说过所有你以前会做的东西
He tells me all of these things that you used to do.
我的员工餐呢 我的饼干呢 搞什么鬼"
Where's my family meal? Where are my cookies? WTF?"
我一回家就立马开始做糕点
I go home, and I just cut to the chase and bake.
第二天 我带来了一个味增蜜糖派
And the next day, I brought in miso crack pie.
她做了一个又甜又咸的味噌派
She made a sweet miso salty pie.
我尝了之后惊呆了
I tasted it, and I was like,
"谁能做出这样的东西"
"Who the hell would make something like this?"
一个富有创造力的人
Someone insanely creative,
同时也有着很强烈的个人性格
but also someone that has a strong personality.
我把它带去餐厅 大家在两秒钟内就把它吃完了
I brought it in and everyone ate it in two seconds flat.
自从我做了味增蜜糖派之后
And once I made that miso crack pie,
我每天都会做点心 带去餐厅当员工餐给大家吃
I just made dessert and brought it in every day for family meal.
有一天 戴维把我叫到办公室里
One day, Dave called me into the office
他正吃着我带来的点心
and he's crushing whatever dessert I brought in,
嘴都是满的 因为他太兴奋了
and with his mouth full because when he gets really excited,
他等不及要分享他的想法了
he can't wait to share his thought.
他说 "我不明白
He was like, "I don't understand.
我们把它放在菜单上吧"
Let's just put this on the menu."
但是一想到把它
But it would be something
放在菜单上
that I would be horrified
我就特别害怕
at ever thinking about putting on a menu.
那些甜点
Those are the things that I
是我会给自己做着吃的 不是什么精致的食物
would make for myself, and it wasn't fancy food.
当时我说 "不 这样不好"
And I was like, "No, that's not a good idea."
那一周 他每天都会跟我说
He did this with me every day for that week.
"这个怎么样 应该把它放到菜单上"
"How about this? This one should go on the menu."
我会说 "我不这么觉得 它不算什么"
I'd be like, "I don't think so. It's not a thing."
我都要抓狂了
It was maddening for myself 'cause, finally,
因为终于我找到了一个热爱烹饪的人
I have someone that obviously loves cooking.
那是最重要的事情 她热爱烹饪
That was the most important thing. She fucking loves to cook.
她热爱烹饪 但是她却拒绝去做
She loves it, but she refused to do it.
我记得大概花了一两个月之后 我跟她说
And I remember, probably it taking a month or two to being, like,
"对不起 现在我不能接受不这个答案
"I'm sorry, I'm not taking no for an answer right now.
今晚你的餐点将被写入菜单
Your food is gonna be on the menu tonight.
你有大概三小时..."
You got like three hours to..."
"...来备齐足够的分量
"...to produce enough for service.
最好现在就开始准备了"
And you better get started."
我有个问题得搞明白
I had to figure something out,
得快点搞明白
and I had to figure it out pretty quickly.
我就决定
So, I decided to just make
做个超级无敌美式草莓酥饼
a super-duper American strawberry shortcake.
裹在一层薄薄的糖里
It's rolled in a little confectioners' sugar,
这是我奶奶的配方
which is what my grandma would do.
你得同时了解萨姆餐吧和张这个人
You have to understand Ssäm Bar at the time and Chang at the time.
进去 里面很吵 耳不暇听的音乐
You'd go in, it was super loud, there's tons of music,
餐点也堪称旗鼓相当
and the food was sort of the equivalent.
他们毫不理睬 他们有种酒
They didn't give a shit. They had one kind of wine, you know,
饭后 他们会呈上这种麻糬冰淇淋
and at the end of the meal, they put down this mochi ice cream,
可能是从
which was probably from the
十四街拐角处特雷德·乔店里买♥♥的
Trader Joe's around the corner on 14th Street,
你就 "这是您的甜点 谢谢"
so you're just, like, "Mmm, here's your dessert. Thanks."
然后有一天 盘子上呈上了这个草莓酥饼
And then one day, there was this strawberry shortcake on a plate.
这不只是个草莓酥饼
It wasn't just a strawberry shortcake.
包含了一层层的狂想之念
There were layers of intelligence with crazy going on,
也就是萨姆的风格
which was the Ssäm experience.
她完美地补齐了他的短板
So she perfectly complemented him.
说到克里斯蒂娜 我第一反应就是
What dawned on me very quickly with Christina
她是一个
was that she was a person
仍然有表达欲的人
that still needed an outlet to express herself.
那时我发现
That's when I realized,
"要让她有所行动
"Oh, the only way to get her
只能把她逼到绝路"
to do it is just to push her off the cliff."
有天 我们在构想
One day, as we were conceiving
如何构建百福王朝
how we would build this Momofuku empire,
我们决定开一家仅供品尝的餐厅
we had decided to open a tasting menu-only restaurant,
于是就开起来了
and so we were building it out.
开张的时候被寄予厚望
It's a highly anticipated opening,
我负责做甜品
and I was gonna be responsible for making dessert.
这家店在东村 全天23小时营业
There's this bodega in the East Village. It's open 24/7.
感觉就像有日光下所有的元素
It feels like it has every ingredient under the sun.
我想得到灵感的时候 常去那
And it's oftentimes where I go when I'm looking to be inspired.
我回到糕饼房♥工作以后 努力挖掘
And so I went back to serve my pastry arsenal, I dug deep.
"什么甜点既漂亮 又容易做 意式奶冻"
"What's an elegant, easy dessert to prepare? Panna cotta."
就是调了味的牛奶 加了明胶进去
It's flavored milk. You set it with gelatin.
很精致 要是做得好会很漂亮
It's luxurious. It's elegant if done right.
我能搞定
I can get down with that.
唯一的不足是
The only thing about panna
意式奶冻通常很单调
cotta is panna cotta is usually pretty boring.
可能是香草奶冻 可能是巧克力奶冻
Maybe it's vanilla panna cotta, maybe it's chocolate.
要是真的豪华的话 就用柠檬
If it's really elegant, it's lemon.
这是对意式奶冻口味的延拓
That was the breadth of flavors of panna cotta.
但我最终在这个地方下功夫
But now I'm landed on this one place to create,
也就是调味牛奶
which is flavored milk.
我走到谷物走廊
And I walk to the cereal aisle.
这是我从小就很熟悉的地方
It's the aisle I know very well from my childhood.
我想
I think to myself,
"有种谷物味牛奶"
"There is such a thing as cereal-flavored milk."