鸟瞰欧洲（2019）

just like their boats.
这些教堂中最大的是海达尔木板教堂
The largest of these churches is the Heddal Stave Church,
一座十三世纪的木制杰作
a spectacular 13th century wooden masterpiece.
高达29米
Towering 29 meters high,
是中世纪木制技术的奇迹
it's a miracle of medieval timber technology.
其中唯一的金属材料用在了装饰门中
The only nails used in its construction are in the ornate door.
夏季快要结束时
As the summer draws to an end,
教会委员英格玛·克罗肯负责
it's the job of churchwarden Ingmar Kroken
保护这个中世纪奇迹
to preserve this medieval wonder.
木头需要特殊保养 因为毕竟
The wood needs special maintenance, because to make it last
已经过去了八百年
as long as this, 800 years,
我们要使其抵御天气的侵蚀
we need to treat it against the weather.
木板教堂的称呼
Stave churches get their name
来自于厚重的木制板子 也就是木板
from the thick wooden posts, or staves,
这些木板存在于它们的内部架构中
that form their internal skeleton.
它们坐落于石基之上
These staves rest on stone foundations
支撑着整个教堂的重量
that support the entire weight of the church,
使木材结构灵活
creating a flexible timber construction
以抵抗挪威的暴风
that resists Norway's fierce winds.
如今 英格玛要用柏油去漆
Today, Ingmar needs to paint the 50-square-meter roof
南边50平方米的顶
on the southern side with black tar,
就像他的祖先八百年前所做的那样
just as his ancestors did 800 years ago.
防护柏油直接从罐中取出
Straight from the can,
像太妃糖一样硬
the protective tar is as hard as toffee.
所以就像画一样 必须趁热将其涂匀
So they must apply it hot so it spreads evenly, just like paint.
趁柏油还热 还柔软 英格玛和同事们赶快涂抹
Ingmar and his colleagues work quickly whilst the tar is hot and pliable.
每英寸木头都要涂上
Every inch of wood must be coated
这样才能抵御严寒和多雨天气
to protect it from the bitter cold and wet weather.
尽管柏油装于特制的绝缘桶中
Even with a special insulated bucket,
也必须趁柏油冷却前 抓紧时间涂抹
the team must paint rapidly to finish before the tar cools.
用柏油来涂抹 最难的就是
The most difficult thing about working with the tar
其可涂抹时间之短
is the short window of time I have to apply it.
如果天气暖 柏油可以涂抹好几分钟
If it's sun, I can work with the tar for several minutes,
但如果天气冷 也就二十秒钟
but if it's cold, it's like 20 seconds,
柏油就太僵硬 没法涂了
and it's too stiff.
五小时之后
Five hours later,
顶部的这部分已经准备好了
this section of the roof is ready to face the elements.
英格玛希望可以在夏季的最后几周
Ingmar hopes to complete the final sections
完成最后的这些部分
in the last weeks of summer.
得益于英格玛和他的团队
Thanks to the effort of Ingmar and his team,
海达尔木板教堂才得以
the Heddal stave church
以中世纪挪威建筑的标志自居
will stand as an icon of medieval Norwegian architecture
走过无数个冬季
through countless more winters.
为后代居民保卫这个建筑真的很开心
It's a joy to take care of this for generations to come.
感觉特别神奇美好
That's really a wonderful feeling.
挪威♥海♥湾九月的冷空气
A chill in the September air heralds a dramatic transformation
预示着气候的大转变
in Norway's famous fjords.
这些陡峭多河流的山谷
These steep, sea-filled valleys were carved by glaciers
是数千年前由冰川分割形成的
thousands of years ago.
当夏日的游船逐渐消失之时
As the last of the summer cruise ships disappear,
环绕着峡湾的树
the trees that surround the fjords
突然绽放出各种黄色和金色
erupt in a riot of color, blazing yellow and gold,
代表着秋天的到来
with the arrival of autumn.
秋季
挪威西部的松恩峡湾
The Sognefjord in the west
是其境内最大最深的峡湾
is the longest and deepest fjord in the country.
从海洋向内陆伸展200多公里
It stretches over 200 kilometers inland from the ocean.
在一个分支的尽头
At the end of one branch,
米达尔山脉连绵覆盖着小村庄弗拉姆
the Myrdal Mountains tower ominously over the small village of Flam.
有着四百名居民的弗拉姆
The 400 inhabitants of Flam
本会被山川隔绝 但是
would be isolated by the mountains, but for one thing...
它有着独一无二的铁路
Its unique train line.
弗拉姆铁路
The Flamsbana Railway
北欧最陡峭的电动铁路
is the steepest electric railway in Northern Europe.
其高为垂直866米
It scales 866 vertical meters,
比世界上最高的建筑还要高
higher than the world's tallest building,
去米达尔站的路上 居民可以换乘
on its way to Myrdal station, where the villagers can join
卑尔根到奥斯陆跨国铁路
the cross-country Bergen-to-Oslo train line.
时值清早 火车司机
It's early morning
克里斯汀·谢伊·杜菲该上班了
and time for train driver Kristine Shay Dufey to get to work.
这段铁路上的山很多
This is a really mountainous railroad.
想到斜度
Considering the gradient here, yeah, you want to go forward, not backwards.
克里斯汀·谢伊·杜菲 火车司机
就想向前 不想向后
所以还是蛮有挑战性的
So, it can be challenging.
离开峡湾 她直冲山谷深处
Leaving the fjord, she heads deep into the valley.
开阔的漫滩逐渐被连绵的山脉代替
The open floodplain soon gives way to towering mountains.
我们独特的航♥空♥摄像机拍到了
Our unique aerial view reveals the train line
穿越令人惊叹的美景的铁路
as it twists through the stunning landscape.
从驾驶室看得出路有多陡
You can see it's really steep from the driver's cabin.
我记得我第一次从米达尔往下开时
I remember the first time I went downhill from Myrdal,
感觉真的很吓人
and that was a really freaky feeling.
看着轨道向下消失
You just see the track disappearing downwards.
就感觉 这可不正常
Like, this is not normal.
夏天 克里斯汀所见的景色很美
During summer, Kristine's view is beautiful.
但秋天 树叶变色时 景色就是绝美
But in autumn, when the leaves turn, it's truly spectacular.
有人称其为世界上最美的铁路旅行
It's even said to be the world's most beautiful railway journey.
它太特别了 所以每年都有
It's so special that, each year,
将近一百万游客涌向小小的弗拉姆
nearly a million visitors flock to tiny Flam
只为了体验其火车外的美景
just to experience the view from its railway.
每天都是不一样的
No day is the same.
每天的光都不一样
The light is different from day to day,
每天的环境 颜色 都不一样
the environment, and the colors.
就像飞着穿越自然母亲一样
It's just like flying through Mother Nature.
铁路的亮点之一就是
标志性的克约斯福森瀑布
One of the train journey's highlights is the iconic Kjosfossen falls,
这个沙漏形的瀑布竟然高达225米
an hourglass-shaped waterfall that descends a staggering 225 meters.
其顶部是一个水力发电坝
At the top is a hydroelectric dam that generates enough energy
为整个弗拉姆铁路提供电力
to power the entire Flamsbana Railway.
要穿过瀑布
To pass the waterfall,
火车消失进好几个深隧♥道♥中
the train disappears into a series of deep tunnels.
最长的是长达743米的马蹄形转弯
The most extreme is a 743-meter horseshoe bend,
直转向山川深处
carved deep inside the mountain.
火车在此转一个180度的大弯
It steers the train around a full 180-degree turn.
这样 火车就在转弯中逐渐上升
This allows the train to climb slowly at a gradual angle.
从克约斯福森瀑布
From the Kjosfossen falls
到终点站米达尔山脉
to the final mountain station of Myrdal,
隧♥道♥中间都有特殊的防护层
special coverings between the tunnels, called snowsheds,
叫做防雪崩建筑 是用来保护铁路
help protect the track
在冬天不受暴风雪和雪崩侵害的
from severe blizzards and avalanches in winter.
从最后一个防雪崩建筑物出来后
Bursting out of the final snowshed,
克里斯汀将火车驶进最后一段路
Kristine powers the train up the last stretch.
上午9时50分
她到达了终点站 米达尔站
At 9:50 A.M., she reaches Myrdal, her final destination
有机会享受一会儿这绝美的景色
and has a moment to enjoy the breathtaking views.
这条铁路我最喜欢的就是景色
The thing I like most about the route is the scenery.
这景色在这世间绝美 难得
It's outstanding and really unique in this world.
攀爬上山 来到高处
As you climb up the mountain and you gain altitude,
树越来越黄 颜色就像爆♥炸♥了一样
the trees get more and more yellow, and the colors are just exploding.
就像一幅画
It's like a painting.
挪威是个水上国家 有很多航海传统
Norway is a land of water, with strong seafaring traditions.
这里有五百四十万居民
Of the 5.4 million people who live here,
大多数都聚居在多姿多彩的港口城市
the vast majority are clustered around the nation's colorful seaport cities.
卑尔根是中世纪贸易中心
Bergen, a medieval trade hub,
大量出口鱼和皮毛
that grew rich exporting fish and furs.
特隆赫姆的仓库建在水面的高跷上
Trondheim, where warehouses are built on stilts over the water
这样卸船就会更方便
to make unloading boats easier.
还有奥斯陆 国家的首都
And Oslo, the nation's capital.
1624年 一场毁灭性的火灾过后
In 1624, after a devastating fire,
整座城市都移位了
在横跨海湾两公里处重建
this entire city moved, rebuilt two kilometers across the bay.
从天空中向下看
我们可以看见宽阔的街道
From above, we can see the wide-open streets
这样布置是为了防止火灾和其他灾难
they hoped would act as a fire break and prevent future catastrophes.