主厨的餐桌（2015）

我不知道自己会不会喜欢
I had no idea if I would like it or not.
不知道烹饪界是怎么样的
I had no idea what the gastronomy world was.
我对生活一无所知
I knew absolutely nothing about life.
但我一直很崇拜费兰
But I always admired Ferran.
所以 我决定去斗牛犬餐厅
So I decided to go to El Bulli.
以前这里有个花♥园♥
We used to have a garden here.
我几乎不记得它的样子
I barely remember it looking like this.
厨房♥的窗户
The kitchen window.
原来的斗牛犬餐厅的窗户已经所剩无几
There's not much left of what was originally El Bulli.
我15岁时 费兰22岁 我们重聚了
When I was 15 and Ferran was 22, we reunited.
费兰和我开始在斗牛犬餐厅历险
Ferran and I began our adventures at El Bulli.
我只想找乐子
I just wanted to have some fun.
但我想 费兰作为我的大哥哥
But I suppose that Ferran, as my big brother,
对于我要做什么 应该心中有数吧
had a plan about what I had to do, right?
他们全都改了
They have changed everything.
哎 可惜
Shoot.
以前 斗牛犬餐厅只有厨艺圈内人知道
Back then, El Bulli was a restaurant for insiders.
过去 这里不为人所知
It was not a well-known place.
斗牛犬餐厅停业了很久
El Bulli had a lot of downtime.
很多时候 没人来吃东西
On many days, nobody came to eat.
费兰不断受挫 寻求着解决方法
Ferran wouldn't stop going in circles, looking for a solution.
他一直是个优秀的领导者
He was always a great leader.
他为我在厨房♥里摆满了菜谱
He filled the kitchen with recipe books for me.
从那时起 我们开始
From then on, we started
像哥哥和弟弟一样相处
acting like big brother and little brother.
那是我人生中最美好的时光
It was the most beautiful period of my life.
员工们在六点半吃晚饭 不对 是六点
The staff had dinner at 6:30 p.M. At 6:00 p.M.
我不记得他们什么时候吃晚饭了
I can't remember when they would have dinner.
我会坐在这里 我记得
And I would sit here. I remember.
就是在这里
It was here.
我
Me.
朱莉
Juli.
费兰
Ferran.
他们两兄弟之间的感情好得令人难以置信
The relationship between the two brothers is incredible.
他们建立了超越生物学事实的兄弟关系
They built a brotherhood which transcended the biological fact.
他们是超越了血缘关系的兄弟
They are brothers beyond blood.
我们来吃第一道甜品
We have the first dessert:
玫瑰
the rose.
亲一下玫瑰 只吃糖球
Kiss the rose to eat just the sphere,
这是荔枝 覆盆子和玫瑰水做的
made from lychee, raspberry, and rose water.
干杯
Cheers.
这是杏仁冰淇淋
Here are the almond ice creams.
外面有切碎的
They have green almond
青杏仁 一点橄榄油
chopped on the exterior, a bit of olive oil,
和一点烟熏风味
and a little smoked flavor.
最重要的是
And the most important thing
这两个冰淇淋中有一个藏着奖品
is one of these two ice creams has a prize.
去斗牛犬餐厅一年半后 我成为了糕点师
After one and a half years at El Bulli, I became the pastry chef.
这很简单 费兰是主厨 我是糕点师
It was simple. Ferran was the chef and I was the pastry chef.
我们借鉴了法国菜的一些蛋糕 派和水果
We borrowed a few cakes, pies and fruits from French cuisine.
人们真的是只为了吃甜点车而来
People really came just to eat from the dessert cart,
这在当时很流行
which was in style at that time.
当时 我比较传统
Back then, I was more traditionalist.
费兰更倾向于尝试所有事物
Ferran was more prone to try everything.
我需要觉醒过来
I needed to wake up.
我必须进化 来跟上美食厨房♥的速度
I had to evolve to keep up with the speed of the savory kitchen.
这意味着拿掉甜点车
Which meant taking out the dessert cart,
致力于创新和前卫
to commit to creativity and to the avant-garde.
斗牛犬餐厅正在成为一家雄心勃勃的先锋餐厅
El Bulli was becoming this ambitious, avant-garde restaurant.
全球的注意力开始转向科斯塔布拉瓦
The global attention was starting to turn to the Costa Brava.
斗牛犬餐厅获得了米其林三星
El Bulli gets its third Michelin star.
费兰正在迅速成为全球最具影响力的主厨
Ferran is fast becoming the most influential chef in the world.
阿尔伯特正在重塑所有种类的甜品
Albert is reinventing the entire genre of desserts,
他真的改变了每个人对糕点的看法
and finding the voice that really changed the world of pastry for everyone.
在糕点界
In pastry,
你可以创造的图象是360度的 三维的
the image you can create is in 360 degrees, in three dimensions.
你想怎么做都行
Whatever you want.
创造糕点的时候 你不受到任何约束
When creating pastries, you are limitless.
这很激动人心
It was exciting.
世界在我面前敞开了
The world was opening before me.
你明白了吗
You got it?
不要退缩 放手去做
Don't hold back. Go for it.
这要煮熟一点 我们需要把它切得更薄
It needs to be more cooked. We need to slice it thinner.
实际上 听我说 最好煎一下
Actually, listen to me. It should be fried.
煎熟然后冷却 等它凉了再切
Fry, then chill it. Then when it's cold, cut it.
-它就会像这样酥脆 -对 对 像我们之前做的那样
- It will be crispy like this. - Yes, yes, like we did earlier.
在斗牛犬餐厅的最初几年
In those early years at El Bulli,
阿尔伯特除了甜点和点心外 还有很多野心
Albert has a surplus of ambition beyond desserts and pastry.
阿尔伯特开始创造新的菜肴 将不可能变为可能
Albert starts creating new dishes that make the impossible possible.
费兰和阿尔伯特...他们想要有个地方
Ferran with Albert... They wanted to have somewhere
来发展他们的餐饮新技术 并突破这些界限
to develop these new techniques and push those boundaries.
阿尔伯特领导着这支队伍 斗牛犬餐厅的高级助手
Albert leads up the team, the top lieutenants at El Bulli,
他们创建了工作室
and they create the workshop.
"更高"工作室 一个大型实验性厨房♥空间 专门用来开♥发♥新技术
The taller: a big, experimental kitchen space used expressly to develop new techniques.
当时 这样做完全是革命性的 根本没有人这么做
Back then, it was totally revolutionary. Nobody was doing this.
这里每个季节能创造出45种新菜式
It was about creating 45 new dishes every single season.
每一道菜都必须由一个以最发人深省
Each one of those had to be driven by an idea
最引人注目的方式
that felt like it was redefining food
感觉就像是在重新定义食物的理念来驱动
in the most thought-provoking and compelling way,
因为 全世界都在关注
because the world is watching.
阿尔伯特在工作室里的角色是指导和指挥
Albert's role in the workshop was to direct and command.
他是创意总监
He was the creative director.
我们的责任是让一切成为可能...
The obligation was to make everything possible...
是创造一种新的语言
to build a new language.
我参观过一家食品工厂
I visited a food factory.
在他们的实验室里 有一瓶酱
In their laboratory, they had a bottle of sauce
有一个小球浮在上面
with little balls floating.
我马上就问 "那是怎么做到的"
I quickly asked, "How is that done?"
研究员给了我一袋海藻
And the chemist handed me a bag of algae.
我下午六点半回到巴塞罗那
I arrived back in Barcelona at 6:30 p.M.
然后去了工作室
And went to the workshop.
我一个人在工作室
I was alone in the workshop.
用水溶解了藻酸盐和钙
I dissolved water with the alginate, and calcium with water.
我盛了一勺放进水里
I took a spoon and tossed the water in the bath.
当我拿起来的时候 我看见它形成了一层薄膜
And when I lifted it out, I saw that it created a membrane.
我把它刺破时 里面有液体流出来
When I punctured it, there was liquid inside.
"哇"我不禁激动的颤栗出汗
"Wow." I began to tremble and sweat.
我知道我发现了至关重要的一点
I knew I had found something important.
我们第一个球化的是橄榄
The first spherification was the olive.
然后我问自己"极限在哪里"
And I ask myself, "Where's the limit?"
那瞬间 我意识到它的无尽可能
That moment, I realized that I don't see a ceiling.
从那以后 我们的新技术就真正起航了
And from then on, our techniques really took off.
在"更高"工作室 那些熬夜的日子
In the taller, so many of those big light-bulb moments
见证了斗牛犬餐厅的新式菜肴的诞生
that defined El Bulli's cuisine came into being.
他们改进了泡沫和热凝胶的概念
They refined the concept of foams, hot gelatins,
改进了以新的方式塑造食物的硅模
silicon molds used to shape food in new ways.
空气泵
The airs.
烤薄饼
The pancake.
糖灯
The sugar lamp.
我们并没有停止制♥作♥毫无意义的东西
We didn't stop making things that made no sense.
我感觉很自♥由♥
I felt free.
世界突然变得充满色彩
Everything was suddenly a world of color.
"更高"工作室重新定义了食物的概念
The taller redefined what food could possibly be.
突然之间 所有的界限都被重置了
And, suddenly, the boundaries have all been reset.
全世界的主厨都是以此为生的
Chefs around the world were feeding off of that.
斗牛犬餐厅领导了这场全球的先锋运动
El Bulli was leading this global avant-garde movement.
很难想象 还能有哪家餐厅
It's impossible to imagine a restaurant
能够像斗牛犬餐厅一样 拥有如此巨大的影响力
ever having that level of impact and influence ever again.
没有这个工作室
Without the workshop,
斗牛犬餐厅绝不会变成现在这个样子
El Bulli never would have been what it became.