主厨的餐桌（2015）

在"博伦" 我们的试吃菜单
At Bo.Lan, our tasting menu
让客人明白泰国人过去的饮食习惯
lets the customer understand how Thais used to eat.
对我而言 这真的展示了
And for me, that really showcases
泰式料理中的强烈和完整性
the intensity and the integrity that we know Thai food has.
你好 吃了吗
Hello! Have you eaten yet?
欢迎各位 请进 今天过得好吗
Welcome, guys. Please come in. How are you today?
你好 欢迎
Hello! Welcome!
欢迎进厨房♥
Welcome to the kitchen.
在厨房♥ 我们提供第一口食物
In the kitchen, we offer our first bite.
字面意思是 "翻转 放盐"
It literally means "Turn over. Add salt."
只有三种料
It's got only three ingredients.
有盐 香椰糖 烤嫩椰子
You've got salt, palm sugar and toasted teenage coconut.
对我们而言 这真的强调且包含了
For us, it really emphasizes and encompasses what
泰式料理的精髓 以及制♥作♥过程的重要性
Thai cuisine is, and what important produce is.
在曼谷 很多时候
In Bangkok, a lot of the time,
人们从各地进口最好的食材
it's all about importing the best ingredient from here or there.
但是 在"博伦" 我们只会
Whereas, at Bo.Lan, we're only
使用泰国当地的食材
using product that comes from within Thailand.
我们的有机大米来自益梭通府
Our organic rice from Yasothon Province,
位于泰国东北部
from the northeastern side of Thailand.
吃起来像我小时候在家吃的"辣椒和盐"
It's like the "Chili and salt" My family ate when I was a child.
就是我以前吃过的
Exactly what I used to eat.
-我很开心 呼 -松了一口气
- I'm so glad. Phew. - What a relief.
泰国菜中 食材是最重要的部分
And the ingredients are the most important part of any Thai meal.
但不管我们的食材有多好
But it doesn't matter how good our ingredients are.
都要用传统方法烹饪
They have to be cooked with the traditional method.
要做咖喱酱 就不能混合调料
To make the curry paste, you can't blend it.
不能熬成浓汤 不能榨汁
You can't puree it. You can't juice it.
全都没用
It's not gonna work.
做咖喱酱的正确方法是捣碎
The proper way in making the curry paste is pounding it.
把调料一起捣碎 味道会不同
When you pound it together, the flavor's different.
味道相互交织
It's more intertwined.
吃起来跟以前的泰式料理味道一样
And it tastes the way Thai cuisine used to taste.
这不是艰难之道 而是正确之道
It's not the hard way. It's the right way.
西方的菜单
With a Western tasting menu,
总是一道菜接一道菜上
you get one dish, one dish, one dish.
在"博伦" 我们不会这样
We don't do that here at Bo.Lan.
从主菜开始 我们一次性上齐7道菜
For the main course, we give them seven dishes at once.
从泰式料理的架构来看
From the framework of Thai cuisine,
至少要有一道咖喱
you need to have at least a curry,
汤水 沙拉 炒菜 还有风味佐料
a soup, a salad, a stir-fry and a relish.
通过这种交织
Through that interaction,
人们开始明白泰式料理的复杂性
people start to understand the complexity of Thai cuisine,
他们可以用正确的方法吃到正宗泰国菜
and that they can actually eat Thai food as it ought to be eaten.
这道菜好吃吗
Is Brother Pe's delicious?
那是因为榴莲是甜的 而芋头不甜
It's because the durian is sweet, but the taro is not.
不过这个很甜腻
But this is too sweet.
非常甜
Really sweet.
颜色不该那么白
The color shouldn't be this clear.
要是这么白 吃起来就太甜
If it's this clear, then it's too sweet,
就像糯米甜点
like dessert sticky rice.
攻读完学士学位后 我试着找各种工作
After I finish my bachelor, I try to find any job at all.
我跟他们说 我可以做厨房♥里的任何工作
And I tell them I do whatever in the kitchen.
没人要我
No one wants me.
博是个聪明的女人
Bo is an intelligent woman
却不能找到一份在厨房♥的工作
and couldn't find a job in the kitchen.
我遇见她时 她渴望学习
When I met her, she was eager to learn,
但是 她当时不是烹饪泰式料理
but she wasn't cooking Thai food.
她在我的地中海餐厅做厨师
She was cooking in my Mediterranean restaurant.
那时候 在曼谷
Bangkok back then, it was
很难在餐厅找到正宗泰国菜
hard to find good Thai food in a restaurant.
一天 一位外国厨师走进厨房♥
One day, a foreign chef comes into the kitchen.
他们想了解泰国菜 因为他们身处泰国
They want to know about Thai food, because they're in Thailand.
但我完全不懂
And I don't have that knowledge at all.
我就在想 "该死 为什么我不知道"
It's like, "Shit, why don't I know?"
所以 我问了我的厨师长 他们是泰国人
So, I asked my sous chefs, who are Thai.
他们也完全不了解泰国菜
And they don't know anything about Thai food,
因为他们也一直在做西餐
because they've been working with Western food, as well.
所以我问了周围的人
So, I ask around.
我这才发现
I just found that Thai people
泰国人再也不了解泰国菜的烹饪了
don't know about cooking Thai food anymore.
这真令人伤心 令人震惊
It's sad. It's shock.
于是我决定 我真的真的必须要深入研究一下
I decide that I really, really have to dig into this.
我必须学习泰国菜
I have to learn Thai food.
在泰国 泰国菜不是
In Thailand, Thai food is
在餐馆里很行得通的食物
not a food that works well in restaurants.
泰国菜是在家吃的食物
It's food that's eaten at home.
很多泰国人不会在外面吃泰国菜
Many Thais don't eat Thai food out.
或者 如果他们要吃的话
Or, if they do, they'll eat
他们会吃街边摊 而且这种非常便宜
it out on the street, and it is very cheap.
如果他们足够有钱能去餐馆吃饭
If they're affluent enough to eat in restaurants,
他们会请一两个女佣
they'll have a maid or
在家里为他们做泰国菜
two that'll cook Thai food for them at home.
所以 泰国的餐馆一般是做昂贵的外国菜式
So, restaurant food in Thailand is expensive foreign food.
泰国菜发展最大的压力之一是
One of the biggest pressures on Thai food
人们对于它价格便宜的这个预期
is people's expectation that it should be cheap.
削减食物成本的唯一方法是
Only way you can cut the costs of the food
降低食材的品质
is by reducing the quality of the ingredients.
所以 很多泰国人在用劣质的食材
So, many Thais are using shoddy ingredients,
这降低了食物的品质
reducing the quality of the food.
泰国菜的味道正在消失
The taste of Thai food is disappearing,
因为高品质的食材正在消失
'cause quality ingredients are disappearing.
而这是莫大的遗憾
And that's a great shame.
大蒜
Garlic.
葱头 我们还有很多
Shallots. We still have a lot.
好了 这么多现在够了
Okay, that's enough for now.
传统的泰国菜里 不会放烤葱头
Traditionally in Thai cuisine, grilled shallots aren't used.
在家里 我家人做这道菜不会放葱头
Back home, my family doesn't use shallots for this dish.
完全不放葱头 是吗
No shallots at all, right?
-你家在哪里 -罗永府
- Where are you from? - From Rayong.
对 他们只加大蒜
Yes. They only add garlic.
当她在我的地中海餐厅工作的时候
When she was cooking in my Mediterranean restaurant,
博相当渴望了解更多她自己国家的菜肴
Bo was quite keen to learn more about her own cuisine.
而这在曼谷不可能实现
And that wasn't gonna happen in Bangkok.
我就说 "为什么你不走出曼谷
And I was like, "Why don't you just get out
去伦敦为戴维·汤普森工作呢"
and go and work for David Thompson in London?"
戴维当时把泰国菜带到了一个更高的层次
David was taking Thai food to the next level.
没有泰国主厨真的在做这个
No Thai chefs were really doing that.
我意思是 这真的很遗憾
I mean, it was a shame that
因为是一个住在伦敦的澳大利亚人在将泰国菜发扬光大
it was an Australian guy living in London.
戴维让全世界的人都能享用泰国菜
David gave the rest of the world access to Thai cuisine.
这是在泰国以外真正的泰国菜
It was real Thai food outside of Thailand
我觉得没有任何人之前见识过
that I don't think anybody had really seen before.
戴维需要厨房♥里有泰国人 来增加
David needed Thai people in the kitchen to add,
比如 一点泰国风情
like, a little bit of Thai accent.
阿曼达把戴维介绍给了我
Amanda introduced David to me.
所以 我去到戴维在伦敦的"楠"餐厅
So, I landed in David's kitchen, Nahm, in London.
到伦敦的第一周 我就爱上了那里
First week in London, I'm loving it.
我爱伦敦的建筑
I love the architecture.
我爱伦敦的马路 巴士
I love the road. I love the bus.
我就是爱伦敦的一切
I just love London.
是的 然后工作开始了
Yeah, and then the work start.
之后我再也没有游览过伦敦了
And then you never see London again.
和戴维在"楠"餐厅一起工作了两年后
After working with David at Nahm for two years,
博是第一个
Bo was the first Thai person
在厨房♥和我们一起工作的泰国人
in the kitchen that we'd ever worked with.
在厨房♥里 我是
In the kitchen, I'm, like,
他们遇到过动作最慢的人中最慢的
the slowest of the slowest that they ever met.
他们丢给我一箱对虾 然后我得剥壳
They throw me a box of prawns, and then I have to shell it.
其他人十五分钟就剥完了
People do it in 15 minutes,