主厨的餐桌（2015）

最终再把所有的东西放进汤里煮
At the end, everything was cooked together in the broth.
至此 新篇章开始了
And with this, something new started.
看 它在说"吃掉我吧"
Look, it says, "Eat me."
那些曾经吃了一勺就离开的人
The same people who would leave after a spoonful
现在会回来要第二份了
were now coming back for a second serving.
以前 食物都被扔掉了
Before, the food was getting thrown away.
现在 人们开始抱怨不够吃了
Now, people started to complain that there wasn't enough.
不够吃了
There wasn't enough.
燃木烘炉里使用的把手耐久度怎么样
How is the handled one's durability with wood-fired ovens?
弄不坏的
You can't break these.
我对天发誓 我们有厨师弄坏过铁把手
I swear to God, we have some cooks who can break steel.
铸铁材质被摔就可能会断裂
The cast iron ones may break when dropped.
这款是黄铜的 它的材质更坚固
This one is brass. It is made of the strongest stuff.
-我可以雕刻在这 -那就更好了
- I could engrave here. - Yes, that's better.
那就更好了 很好
It's better. Great.
好
Right.
当我从军队退伍时
When I got back from the military,
我决定要开"希亚"烤肉餐厅
I decided to open up Çiya Kebab.
那不是件简单的事
It wasn't easy.
我必须夜以继日地工作
I had to work day and night.
我晚上就睡在餐厅的椅子上
I was sleeping in the restaurant on the chairs,
用纸或围裙包着我的鞋子 就睡在上面
wrapping my shoes in paper or my apron, sleeping on them.
我需要帮助
I needed help.
这帮助来自泽伊内普
And that help was Zeynep.
我有一天去"希亚"烤肉餐厅吃午餐
I went to Çiya for lunch one day.
我们说想要点奥鲁克
We said that we wanted oruk.
但服务生说"那不叫奥鲁克"
But the waiter replied, "It isn't called oruk."
我坚持己见
I insisted that it was oruk.
我拦下服务员 问她 "女士 您从哪来"
I stop the waiter. I ask her, "Madam, where are you from?"
她说 "安塔基亚"
She says, "Antakya."
我告诉服务员 这位女士没错
I told the waiter that she was right.
安塔基亚的人管肉馅丸叫奥鲁克
People of Antakya call içli köfte "Oruk."
所以 她是对的
So, she was right.
一开始 我俩之间没什么浪漫爱情
There wasn't too much romance between us in the beginning.
穆萨的浪漫里除了食物还是食物 没别的
Musa's romanticism involved food, food and food! Nothing else!
她很友好地在餐厅里帮忙
She offered a friendly helping hand at the restaurant.
我们每时每刻都在一起
We were together every moment, all the time.
我们一起开心 一起欢笑 一起做菜
We had fun together, laughed together, created together.
然后友情升华成了爱情
Then this friendship turned into this thing.
要是当初没有相遇 我们会怎么样
What would have happened if we didn't meet?
我不知道
I don't know.
"希亚"能开到今天
If Çiya exists today,
不仅是因为穆萨·达格迭韦仁
it does so not only because of Musa Dağdeviren.
更是因为泽伊內普的极大付出
It's because of Zeynep's incredible contributions.
希亚是我们爱情的结晶
Çiya became the fruit of our love.
90年代的土耳其有很多政♥治♥问题
In the '90s, there were a lot of political problems in Turkey.
伊斯坦布尔两极分化
Istanbul became polarized.
本质上来说 人人自危 针锋相对
In essence, it caused you-versus-me fights.
那时 一位顾客与他的朋友来吃饭
At that time, a customer came in with his friend.
那位顾客说 "这是库尔德食物
The customer said, "This is Kurdish food.
我不吃库尔德食物"
I don't eat Kurdish food."
然后他们就离开了
And they left.
人们面对不同的食物文化
People made condescending
自觉高人一等...
remarks about different food cultures...
他们会说 "我不吃逊尼派的东西
saying things like, "I don't eat at a Sunni's restaurant.
我不在亚美尼亚人的饭店吃饭
I don't eat at an Armenian's restaurant.
我不在土耳其人的餐厅吃饭"
I don't eat at a Turk's restaurant."
我简直不敢相信
I couldn't believe it.
这些食物都来自我们自己的国家
This food is from your own country.
现在他们竟然拒绝接受这些文化
Now they were rejecting these cultures.
伊斯坦布尔的多样化
The colorfulness of Istanbul
提醒我 我们自己也有丰富的文化
was what reminded us of our cultural richness.
但如今 展示我们文化多样性的餐厅...
But now the restaurants which showcased our diversity...
却逐渐消失
were disappearing.
我决定回家一趟 回尼济普
I decided to take a trip home to Nizip.
我需要亲自感受家乡文化的多样性
I needed to be reminded of the richness of my culture firsthand.
回家时 我想吃油饺
When I got back, I wanted to eat greasy dumplings.
但我很快发现 那里的人们
But I soon realized the greasy dumpling
都不知道油饺是什么了
was not known by the people in the region anymore.
我看不到它的一点踪迹
I couldn't even see its traces.
我已亲眼见证了饮食文化在伊斯坦布尔的消逝
I had observed our food culture disappearing in Istanbul.
但在尼济普 这个生养我的地方
But in Nizip, where I was born and raised,
我本以为文化会被保留下来
I thought they were preserving our culture.
在我心里 这道菜和我的母亲紧密相连
In my heart, that dish was associated with my mom.
它的消失让我深受震惊
This disappearance shook me to my core.
在安纳托利亚 当你翻看食物的历史时
In Anatolia, when you look at the history of the food,
不会像研究法国菜那样容易
it's not as easy as when you look into the French.
法国18世纪就有记录员了
They have stuff recorded from the 1700s.
在这里 则更多是口头传承
Here, it's been more of a verbal passing-on.
但是 如果你对传统烹饪失去了尊重
But if you lose respect for traditional cooking,
然后一代 两代 三代下来 即使他们想 他们也做不到
then one, two, three generations down, even if they wanted to, they won't be able to do it,
因为他们不会有相关的知识
because they will not have the knowledge.
我们面临着菜谱消失的危险 传统也在消失
We're at risk of the recipes disappearing, the traditions disappearing, as well.
是谁
Who is it?
是我 哈迪斯姑姑 穆萨
It is me, Aunt Hatice. Musa!
快进来 穆萨
Come in, Musa.
你还好吗
How are you?
亲吻你的眼睛 欢迎
I kiss your eyes. Welcome.
-我们要用这个做什么 -煎饺
- What are we going to do with this? - Pişik dumplings.
以前怎么做 现在就怎么做
Make it as you always make it.
我都是夏天做...
I make this in the summer...
冬天不做
not in winter,
因为冬天的番茄不够好
because there isn't good enough tomato in the winter time.
我来弄番茄吧
Let me have the tomato.
保佑你的手
Bless your hands.
多亏你 这些食物还在
These foods are still alive, thanks to you.
是我该做的
It is my duty.
我意识到我得
I realized that I needed
把上一代的知识记下来
to compile the older generation's knowledge,
以便下一代
so that the next generations will
至少知道这种文化曾经存在过
at least know about the existence of this culture.
我觉得我该写本书
I thought I should write a book.
这本书不应是
It wasn't going to be a book
通过网络搜索而写成
prepared by searching the internet and googling.
而是应该通过实地考察来完成
It had to be done through fieldwork.
我们选取了40个村庄
We decided on about 40 villages.
-你觉得我能成功吗 -当然没问题
- Let me see if I can make it. - Sure you can.
是这样搅拌吗
Do I stir like this?
我们用了18个月时间 走访了40个村庄
And we visited about 40 villages over an 18-month period.
-没法用语言来形容它的美味 -好好享受吧
- There isn't a word to describe it. - Enjoy it.
太好吃了
Unbelievably delicious.
这里有很多菜我闻所未闻 从来没有人听说过
There were so many dishes I didn't know about, nobody knew about!
快好了
Almost done.
我和长者们聊天
I was talking to the elderly,
吸收与内化他们的历史和生活经历
absorbing and internalizing their histories and life experiences.
我把这些信息整合起来...
I compiled all of these information...
然后回到了伊斯坦布尔
and I returned to Istanbul.
你这儿有紫罗勒吗 我要五捆
Do you have some purple basil? Five bundles?
有的
Yes!
-再给我来五捆绿罗勒 -好嘞
- Also give me five bundles of the green. - Okay.
这些椰枣是国产的吗
Are these date palms domestic produce?
是的
Yes, they are.
这些椰枣产自阿♥拉♥尼亚地区
The date palms come from Alanya region.
我要一斤
Let's have half a kilo.
穆萨实地考察回来以后
When Musa came back from his field studies,
光是烤肉串已经无法让他满足了
making kebab wasn't satisfactory enough for him anymore.
那时候 我们对面的商店空了出来
At that point, the shop across us became vacant.
泽伊内普说 "你为什么不把这本书往后推推呢
Zeynep said, "Why don't you postpone this book project?
我们先在这儿试行一下你的想法"
Instead, let's just implement your idea over here."
我们刚开始和别人分享这个想法时
When we first shared this idea with others,