主厨的餐桌（2015）

人人都说 "如果想开泰国餐厅
Everybody's like, "If you want to open a Thai restaurant,
你可以开在... 悉尼 墨尔本 洛杉矶...
you open in... in Sydney, in Melbourne, in LA...
但不是在泰国
not in Thailand.
为什么要做这种明显的赔本买♥♥卖♥♥"
Why would you like to sell ice to an Eskimo?"
但是 在我的内心深处
But at the back of my heart,
我深知 必须得是泰国菜
I know that it would have to be Thai.
我和我父亲聊过这件事
I have the conversation with my dad.
我问他 "但是 要是我赔了怎么办"
I asked him, "But what happens if I fuck up?"
他回答 "做生意是你自己的决定
And he said, "You decide that you want to do business,
不是赔就是挣
it's either fuck up or make profit.
赔就赔了呗"
If you fuck up, you fuck up."
接下来是预约
Next is reservations.
我们今天有35份预约
We have 35 reservations for today.
有人预定了早上6点的3人桌
We have a table of three at 6:00 p.M.
两个大人和一个7岁小孩
Two adults, one seven-year-old.
我还是看到有客人只喝汤
I still see guests eating just soup.
你们要向客人解释清楚
You have to be more clear with them.
告诉他们... "如果您喜欢 可以从喝汤开始
Tell them... "If you like, you can start with soup,
但也请吃点别的东西"
but then move on to other things, as well."
然后鼓励他们用手抓着吃鹌鹑
Then encourage them to use their hands to eat the quail.
别忘了提醒客人鹌鹑肉里有骨头
Don't forget to tell them that the quail has bones.
会有客人试着
There will be guests that try
用勺子或叉子去除骨头
to use a spoon and fork to remove the bones.
有的客人会啃骨头 有的不啃
Some will gnaw on it. Others won't.
这是他们的事 我们的任务是告诉他们
That's their problem. Our job is to say,
"这里面有骨头"
"This one have bone."
还有问题吗
Are there any more questions?
好 那就结束吧
Okay. That's it, then.
-谢谢 -谢谢
- Thank you. - Thank you.
当我们的餐厅刚开始时
When we first opened the restaurant,
有位客人进来说
a customer came in and is like,
"噢 也没什么特别的"
"Yeah, there's nothing special about this."
最初半年...
The first six months...
我睡不好觉...
it's sleepless...
因为餐厅里基本上是空的
because the restaurant is mostly empty.
你不知道
You don't know, not only
会不会有顾客来光顾
whether you're going to have customers in,
甚至不知道你的员工明天是否会来上班
but whether your staff is gonna show up or not tomorrow.
一开始 我就跟迪伦讲
When we first start, I tell Dylan,
"别像在伦敦那样
"Do not yell at the staff
冲员工大吼
the way you yell at the staff in London,
因为我们是泰国人 我们不会忍♥着
because we are Thai, and we are not gonna take that,
我们只会直接走人"
and they're just gonna walk off."
阿瓦 在明虾里多放点油
Waan, you can put a bit more oil in this, the prawns.
知道了
Got it.
结果我成为了那个冲大家嚷嚷的人
I end up being the one who yells at everybody.
这不够辣 亲爱的
This isn't spicy enough, dear.
这个 加点高汤
This, add a little bit of stock.
-加点高汤再尝尝 -好的 主厨
- Add stock and see how it tastes. - Yes, Chef.
想要招到一起工作的专业人员
To recruit people professionally to work with us,
几乎是不可能的
it's, like, almost zero chance.
因为如果他们很厉害 早就去酒店工作了
Because if they're good, they want to work with a hotel.
有一次
There's one incident.
厨师把鱿鱼煮过头了
The cook, he overcooked the squid.
我的态度是 "让我告诉你 要是我我会怎么做"
I'm just like, "Can I show you again how I would like it?"
-跟我们昨天一样 -是
- Like we did yesterday. - Yes.
水不够 亲爱的
Not enough water, dear.
他说 "你对食物的细节要求太高了"
He said, "Your food is too detail-oriented."
"3次了 我都很友好
"I have been nice three times already.
我也向你说明了我的要求
I have explained to you what I want.
我不会再对你宽容了"
I'm not gonna be nice to you anymore."
结果他说 "我不干了"
He says, "I quit."
这就是泰国
This is Thailand.
但我还是要把任何愿意和我一起工作
But I have to groom whoever agrees to work with me,
分享知识的人训练好...
to share the knowledge...
因为我要为泰国菜而战
because I have to fight for Thai food.
你有柬埔寨大蒜吗
you have Cambodian garlic?
柬埔寨大蒜 50铢一斤
Cambodian garlic. One hundred baht per kilo.
剥好的中国大蒜 35铢一斤
Peeled Chinese garlic, 70 baht per kilo.
泰国大蒜 65铢一斤
Thai garlic, 130 baht per kilo.
-这是怎么回事 -不知道 很显然...
- How does that work? - I don't know. Because obviously...
柬埔寨大蒜好吗 还是泰国大蒜好
Is Cambodian garlic good? Or is Thai better?
-泰国的更香 -泰国的更香 对吗
- Thai is more aromatic. - Thai is more aromatic, right?
我很开心泰国大蒜更香
I'm glad Thai garlic is more aromatic.
不 我们要长熟的...
No, we're gonna have some growing...
刚开业时
When we first opened,
我们说要用100%原产的食材
we said we're gonna use everything 100% local,
保证新鲜程度 100%有机
make everything from scratch, and we're gonna be 100% organic.
但现实很打脸
The reality hit.
我们买♥♥不到有机产品
We can't get organic produce.
我们在市场里穿梭了半年
For six months, we went from market to market,
早上6点就起来就去柯多哥市场
getting up at 6:00 in the morning to go to Or Tor Kor Market,
然后再转战下一个
and then go to the next market.
半夜再去
And then we'd go to Khlong
托伊区市场
Toey Market in the middle of the night.
要是问 "这个从哪来的 那个从哪来的"
Asking, "Where are you getting this? Where are you getting that?"
卖♥♥东西的人有一半会说
And half the people selling
"我们不清楚"
our produce was like, "We don't know."
这个怎么吃
How do you cook this?
-小火炖着吃 -炖吗
- Just poach it. - Poach?
-蘸辣椒酱很好吃 -辣椒酱
- It's good to dip in chili paste. - In chili paste?
-大火煮呢 -和炖的差不多
- Is it good boiled? - It's the same as poached.
而且我们找到的许多原料 问说
And a lot of the ingredients that we're finding,
"这个怎么吃" 回答永远是"煮着吃"
we say, "What do you do with that?" And they say, "Boil it."
这是他们对于
And that was the standard
没听过的食材的标准回答
answer for any ingredient they didn't know about.
我们快放弃了
We almost gave up.
我们认为"这很荒谬
We thought, "This is ridiculous.
泰国一定是有机农产品的"
There has to be organic produce available in Thailand."
所以 我们决定去农场一探究竟
So, we decided to visit the farms to see what's going on.
我们想去参观不同的农场
We want to see different farms
看他们如何种植农产品
to see how they produce their food.
所以我们走访了泰国各地
So, we drive everywhere in Thailand.
这里主要是种植蔬菜吗
Is it mostly vegetable farms here?
这个可以生吃
You can eat this one raw.
这个很甜很好吃
It's sweet and delicious.
我们一走进农场就能判断出
You can tell from the farms, when we first arrive,
他们是否用了农药
whether they use any chemical.
我们意识到现在社会的
And we learned that organic
有机产品供应商正在消失
suppliers are disappearing in the society.
然后 我们终于找到了
Then, we finally find
有人愿意卖♥♥给我们有机农产品
someone who wants to sell us organic produce,
所以我们把握住了他们 发展了合作关系
so we hang on to them, and we develop a relationship.
这些农民对泰国食物知根知底
These farmers have so much good knowledge about Thai food.
有一些树液 我们不喜欢生吃 我们会先烹调它
There is some sap. We prefer not to eat it raw. We cook it first.
-好的 -很好吃
- Okay. - It's tasty.
里面蛋白质成分很高
It's also high in protein.
这对素食主义者很好
This is excellent for vegetarians.
在农场里 我们学到了 这些原料是
At the farm, we learned that ingredients in Thailand
纯正泰国菜的秘密武器
are the secret in real Thai cuisine.
瞬间 一切都明朗了
Suddenly, everything became clear.
所以我们改了菜单
So, we change the menu to
以凸显泰式原料的风味
emphasize the flavor of all the Thai ingredients.
因为我们用了有机农产品
And because we use organic produce,
因为我们从头开始烹饪
because we cook everything from scratch,
因为我们用的都是手工制品
because we use artisan products,
所以菜也更好吃
the food tastes better.
越来越多的人都来"博伦"体会地道泰味
More and more people come to Bo.Lan to experience the real thing.
后来 我们找到了一些小规模产出的农民
Over time, we find the small-scale farmers,
小规模产出的渔民
small-scale fishermen,