主厨的餐桌（2015）

穷♥人♥则通过创造力
A poor person makes their wealth
创造自己的财富
by means of creativity.
我们会摘辣椒和向日葵
We'll pick peppers and sunflowers.
一半人摘红辣椒 一半人摘青辣椒
Half of us will pick red peppers, and half will pick green.
像这样 用来做烤肉串
Like this, for kebab.
很好吃
Yes, very nice.
这些熟得可以摘了
These look ready to pick.
我年轻时生活在尼济普
I spent my youth living in Nizip.
尼济普人从来不会
People in Nizip were never
用宗教或政♥治♥信仰给人贴标签
defined by their religious or political beliefs.
他们从不会说 "你的种族是那个
They never say, "Your ethnicity is that.
你属于这片领土 或者 你的民族是那个"
You belong to this denomination or your nationality is that."
我们只是生活在尼济普的人
We were just people from Nizip.
但我12岁时 我的国家发生了军事政♥变♥
But when I was 12, there was a military coup in my country.
人们开始因为不同信仰而互相厮杀
People started to kill each other for having different beliefs.
很可怕
It was scary.
我们住的房♥子 大家轮流守夜
In the house where we lived, everybody took turns keeping vigil.
这变得让人难以忍♥受
It became unbearable.
所有发生的这些事情
All these things were happening,
我开始好奇 为什么会发生
and I was questioning why they were happening.
于是 我开始阅读
So, I started to read.
我就是从那个时候开始学习
That's when I started learning
什么是法♥西♥斯♥ 什么是共♥产♥主义
about what fascism is, what communism is,
什么是民♥主♥的...
what democracy is...
某种程度上看
In a way, it was as if
似乎我眼前的雾霾消散了
the curtain in front of my eyes was lifted.
要在社会生存 必须选择一边
To exist in society, you must choose a side.
于是 我决定为我的信仰而战
So, I decided I was going to fight for the things I believed in.
-把这给叔叔 -非常感谢
- Give it to uncle. - Thanks a lot.
在尼济普 面包店对饮食文化至关重要
In Nizip, bakeries are vital for the food culture.
尼济普有四十家面包店 包括我工作的那家
There were 40 bakeries in Nizip, including the one I worked in.
没有一个面包师能拥有健康保险
None of the bakers had been able to get health insurance.
这困扰着我
This bothered me.
于是 我们几个面包师成立了一个工会
So, a few of us started a union.
我们一个一个地拜访了所有的面包店
We visited all of the bakeries, one by one,
并说服面包师们 这对他们很重要
and convinced the employees that this was important to them,
然后 我们决定进行罢♥工♥
and we decided to go on strike.
所有人都过得很艰难 没人拿到工资
Everyone really struggled. No one got paid.
警♥察♥威胁我们
The police threatened us,
说如果我们不保持沉默就会被杀
saying we would be killed if we didn't stay quiet.
但我们仍然继续
But we continued.
罢♥工♥持续了四十天
This strike went on for 40 days.
在那四十天后
After those 40 days,
他们同意了我们的要求
they agreed to our demands.
我有强烈的政♥治♥立场
I had a strong political stance.
并且得以表达出来
And I was able to express it.
首先 我们用月桂树叶做出一个勺子
First, we make the spoon out of a bay leaf.
我们切开叶子
We split the leaf.
这就是一个牧羊人的午餐
This is what a shepherd eats at noon.
他会召集他的朋友和其他牧羊人
He gathers his friends and other shepherds.
他们一起坐着
They sit together.
一起吃饭
They eat together.
每个人都带着他们的羊
Everybody brings their goats.
他们把碗系在腰带上
They have their bowls on their belts.
他们拿出自己的面包和无花果
They take out their bread and figs.
他们把所有东西都系在腰带上
They have everything on their belts.
-这就是他们的午餐 -不错
- This is their lunch. - Great.
我们去找只羊
Let's find a goat.
现在 要做泰拉米
Now, to make teleme,
把我们的食材 无花果...
our ingredients, our figs...
放进碗里
inside the bowl.
无花果汁让羊奶发酵
It is the fig sap that ferments the milk.
来吧 我们吃起来
Come on. Let's spoon up.
美味至极
Magnificent.
这是一人份吗
This is for one?
在过去 这不够一个牧羊人吃的
In the past, this wouldn't be enough for one shepherd.
是用大铜碗 对吗
Big copper bowls, right?
以前的碗是用铜做的
The old bowls were made out of copper,
因为牧羊人每天都会和朋友一起吃饭
because a shepherd has friends every day.
这真是独一无二
There is nothing like this.
我母亲以前就是这么做的
My mom used to make it like this.
你把它从顶部串起来
You take it from the top.
我们以前就是这样晾干茄子的
That's how we dried eggplant back in the day.
如果串一个茄子都要这么久 我们会没工作的
If we worked that long on a single eggplant, we'd lose our job.
我从来都没想过要离开尼济普
Leaving Nizip was never something I even thought of.
但面包店罢♥工♥发生之后 我面临了真正的生命危险
But after the bakery strike, there were real dangers to my life.
所以 我不得不逃离尼济普
So, I had to flee Nizip.
这就是为什么我来到伊斯坦布尔
And that's why I came to Istanbul.
一开始 我经历了某种文化冲击
At first, I experienced some kind of a culture shock.
这是一个巨大的城市 挤满了人
It was an enormous city, full of people.
我注意到了
I noticed differences in
不同街区的餐馆之间的不同
restaurants from one neighborhood to another.
有阿尔巴尼亚人 亚美尼亚人 切尔克斯人经营的餐馆
Restaurants run by Albanians, Armenians, Circassians.
人们从土耳其各地来到伊斯坦布尔...
People came from all over Turkey to Istanbul...
他们带来了他们所在地区的多样性
and they brought all of the richness from their regions.
这些不同使得伊斯坦布尔缤纷多彩
And those differences made Istanbul colorful.
慢慢地 我开始感觉到 这种多样性是我自己的一部分
I slowly began to feel this richness as a part of who I was.
有一边太薄了 不均匀
One side is too thin. It's not equal.
这是谁做的 乌古斯汗吗 让他来这
Who did this, Oguzhan? Send him here.
下次弄得平整一点
Next time, do it even.
看着 等一下 像这样做
Look, wait a minute. Do it like this.
到了伊斯坦布尔之后 我需要一份工作
After I arrived in Istanbul, I needed a job.
我叔叔有家餐馆
My uncle had a restaurant.
那就是我开始工作的地方
So that's where I started to work.
我是名经验丰富的面包师
I was experienced as a baker.
但我对餐厅里其它方面的工作也很感兴趣
But I was interested in all the other aspects of the restaurant.
我开始学习他们的工作方式 他们的服务方式
I started learning their way of working, what they were serving.
如果做冷盘和烤肉的厨师不在
If the cooks who made the cold dishes or the kebabs weren't in,
我会非常开心
I would get very happy,
因为这意味着我有机会去制♥作♥它们
because this would mean that I would get a chance to make them.
所有人都会称赞我的工作
Everybody would admire my work,
但我会说 那是厨师准备好的
but I'd say the cooks prepared it.
不然 他们会因为
Otherwise, they would've
没做好份内的工作而挨骂
gotten a scolding for not doing their job.
在厨房♥工作是一件非常令人愉悦的事情
Being a part of the kitchen was truly exhilarating.
我对烹饪的兴趣与日俱增
My interest in cooking grew,
我知道自己想成为一名主厨
and I knew I wanted to be a chef.
穆斯塔法主厨
Chef Mustafa?
我们要开始制定今天的菜单了吗
Shall we make today's menu?
西葫芦 豆子 秋葵和肉已经准备好了
Zucchini, beans, okra and meat are ready.
好的 那我们就从马铃薯汤开始
Okay, let's start with potato soup, then.
卡罗尔汤
Kartol soup.
在土耳其 所有男人都必须服役
In Turkey, all men have to serve in the military.
我在1983年参军
I joined the military in 1983.
因为我既是厨师也是面包师 所以被选中
Since I was a cook and a baker, I was taken aside.
他们安排我在埃济内的部队里做厨师
And they put me on cook duty at the regiment in Ezine.
我注意到的第一件事就是 他们没有好的技术
The first thing I noticed was they weren't using good techniques.
他们把所有食材都放进一口大锅里
They put all the ingredients in one big pot.
所以 食物的颜色很奇怪
So, the food had a weird color.
看上去和泥土差不多
It came out mainly looking like mud.
部队里的每个人都在咒骂我们
Everybody in the regiment would curse at us,
抱怨着食物槽糕极了
saying this meal is terrible.
我告诉上司 穆斯塔夫 "这不是正确的做饭方法"
I told my boss, Mustafa, "This isn't the right way to do this."
我告诉他 我会改变这一切
I told him that I would change this.
他说"你做不到 有饥肠辘辘的两千人等着吃饭呢"
He said, "You won't be able to. There are over 2,000 hungry men."
我说我想试一试
I said I would give it a shot.
大家好
Hello, everyone.
所以第二天 我用一口铜锅煮豆子
So, the next day, I boiled the beans in a copper boiler.
然后在另一口铜锅里炒肉
Then the meat was sautéed in a separate copper boiler.
炒洋葱配着番茄酱
The onions were sautéed, along with the tomato paste.