主厨的餐桌（2015）

下雨时 会有很多小虾出来吗
When it rains, do the small shrimp come out a lot?
泰国是一个好客的国度
Thailand is a hospitality country.
不管你问什么 回答都是"没问题
Whatever you ask, it's "Yes.
交给我吧"
I can do that for you."
泰国人一向满足顾客所需
Thais have been serving what the customer wants.
他们会减弱口味
They dumb down the flavors.
但是 在我的餐厅里 我们不会这样
But at my restaurant, we're not gonna do that.
我们想要给顾客展示真东西
We want to show them the real thing.
我们保留着泰国传统口味
We keep the flavors as traditional Thai.
我们不会因为你不吃辣就做淡一点
We're not gonna make it less spicy because you can't eat spicy.
人们不来我的餐厅
People walk out from my restaurant.
但是... 他们选择不来用餐我们更开心
But... we are happier if they decide not to eat.
因为要是从一开始就心存芥蒂
Because if the mind is not going to open from the beginning,
那就行不通
like, it's not going to work.
大多数人认为 泰国菜不是咖喱就是炒粉
Most people think that Thai food is a curry or a pad thai.
其实 远不止如此
But it's so much more.
伟大的泰国菜是人类的烙印之一
Great Thai food is one of the hallmarks of humanity.
很多人没有意识到
Many people don't realize
它的复杂与精妙之处
how complicated and sophisticated it is.
食材种类繁多
There's a diversity of ingredients
食谱源远流长
and a provenance of recipes.
手艺考究
It's artisanal.
不循常理
It is irrational.
而且历史悠久
And it has a great heritage.
泰国人正在开始
Thais are beginning to
表达自己对泰国餐食的理解
articulate their own understanding of Thai food.
这一潮流始于博
And it started with Bo.
全世界都有泰国菜
You have Thai food all over the world,
但"博伦"的泰国菜是正宗泰国菜
but Thai food at Bo.Lan is real Thai food.
博与她的搭档迪伦共事
Bo's working with her partner, Dylan,
一起烹调佳肴
together, producing amazing food.
"博伦"是第一家
Bo.Lan is the first Thai
原汁原味做菜
restaurant to do things as it should be done,
而非迎合游客口感的泰国餐厅
instead of recreating it for the tourist palate.
每一份咖喱酱都是他们自己调的
Every single curry paste is pounded out.
辣咖喱是全手工自♥制♥的
Chili paste is made from scratch.
这种菜更讨老一辈人喜欢
The food is appreciated more so by the older generations
因为这很接近
because it's very similar to
他们祖母的手艺
the way that their grandmother used to prepare it.
旧式泰国菜消失了
Old-fashioned Thai food has disappeared,
而存在于一些疯子的脑子和他们的餐厅里
apart from in the heads and restaurants of a few mad fools.
在泰国传统里 要是有人死了
Traditionally, in Thailand, when somebody died,
家人要写一份包含食谱的悼词
the family wrote a eulogy including recipes.
博和迪伦许多食谱都来源于这种古老的传统
Bo and Dylan based a lot of their recipes on these older ideas.
同时 博希望尽可能地做到合乎道德
Also, Bo has that desire to be as ethical as possible,
也就是说 他们的餐厅要尽量做到可持续发展
which means their restaurant is as sustainable as possible.
对博而言 这无关荣誉奖项
For Bo, it ain't about awards and accolades.
而是有关于个人信仰
It's about doing something you believe in.
在曼谷
In Bangkok,
当你向人们问起关于泰国菜的简单问题时
when you ask people simple questions about Thai food,
人们几乎无法♥正♥确回答
people hardly can tell you the correct answer.
泰国的人
People in Thailand don't
不知道如何从零开始做饭了
know how to cook things from scratch anymore.
他们用的全都是工业加工的产品
They use all industrial, processed products.
罐装椰子
Canned coconut.
包装的咖喱酱
Packaged curry paste.
加工白糖
Processed white sugar.
我们拥有的根系正在消失
The roots that we have are disappearing.
要是继续如此...
If this continues...
我们会完全工业化
we would become industrialized.
所有咖喱酱都产自一家公♥司♥
All the curry pastes made from one company.
传统泰国菜肴... 将会消失
Traditional Thai cuisine... is gonna disappear.
感觉就像 "妈的"
And it's like, "Shit."
作为一种菜系 我们该何去何从
What, as a cuisine, are we gonna be?
我感受到了
I feel this responsibility in
保持泰国菜肴原汁原味的责任
keeping Thai cuisine the way that it should be.
我要为泰国菜而战
I have to fight for Thai food.
新订单
New order.
鱼 对 鹌鹑 对 鸭子 对
Fish, yes. Quail, yes. Duck, yes.
烤猪颈肉 没有 能用鸭子代替吗
Barbecued pork neck, no. Can we do duck instead?
48分了 还有2分钟
Forty-eight, two minutes.
是 主厨
Yes, Chef!
博十分坚韧 无所畏惧
Bo has tenacity. She's absolutely fearless.
就算错了 也会奋力一搏
She will pick a fight despite being wrong.
甚至不惜伤害自己
And she'll cut off her nose to spite her face.
我和迪伦一直吵架
Me and Dylan end up fighting all the time.
我们为了我们应该怎么做菜 应该先放什么
We fight on how we gonna cook this, what we gonna put in first,
应该是什么味道而吵架
how the flavor profile should be.
我不明白他的意思 他也不明白我的意思
I don't get his point. He doesn't get my point.
可能只是我们从不同角度看同一个问题
It's probably the same point we see from different angles.
我们对彼此扔东西 我弄烂他准备好的东西
We throw things at each other. I splash his preps.
他就把我拎起来 放到厨房♥外面
He just picks me up and puts me outside the kitchen.
那算是肢体暴♥力♥了 你知道的
That is physical violence. You know that.
她把咖喱酱涂在我身上
She wiped some curry paste on me.
是的 主厨
Yes, Chef.
是因为我倒了
It was because I poured
一整碗椰子酱在她头上
a whole bowl of coconut cream on her head.
但是她把特别特别脏的汁水倒在我头上
But she poured dirty, dirty dish liquid over me.
那之后我们一个半月没说话
And then we didn't speak for a month and a half.
好
Okay.
之后两周
For the next two weeks,
我们对彼此就是 "是 主厨" "不 主厨"
it was like, "Yes, Chef," "No, Chef," To each other,
在工作环境中以超级有礼貌的方式相待
and just being uber polite in a work environment,
这样其他员工才不会觉得太尴尬
so that the other staff weren't getting too upset.
加土豆
Add potatoes.
不 你是西方人 所以你才喜欢土豆
No, you are a Westerner. That's why you love potatoes.
哈
Ha!
好吃吗
Taste good?
-我是西方人 我喜欢 -西方人
- I am a Westerner. I love it. - Westerner.
不知道员工怎么与我们相处
I don't know how staff cope with us.
但拌嘴让我们关系更紧密
But I think the fighting makes the relationship stronger.
我们之间不是肤浅的爱
And it's not superficial love.
而且把激♥情♥传递到食物中
And it gives that passion to our food.
使之更美味
And that makes it better.
等等 可以帮忙拿住吗
Wait. Can you hold it, please?
伊桑 伊桑
Ethan. Ethan.
-快 -可以帮妈妈放盐吗
- Fast. - Can you put salt in for Mommy?
喂
Hey.
那是什么
What's that?
我生于曼谷 长于曼谷
I was born in Bangkok. Grew up in Bangkok.
我在大家庭中成长
I grew up in quite a big family.
是五个孩子之一
One of five.
我们一直分享桌上的食物
We grew up with food on the table all the time.
各种不同的食物
All different types of food:
有中国菜 有西式料理
a lot of Chinese food, a lot of Western food.
但我最喜欢泰国菜
But I loved Thai food the most.
很多时候我都与父亲一同烹饪
I spent a lot of time cooking with my dad.
我和他在厨房♥里度过了很多快乐时光
I had so much good time with him in the kitchen.
他让我做自己想做的事
He let me do whatever I wanted to.
很好玩
It was fun.
我就是这样开始爱上烹饪的
And that's how I started to love cooking.
高中后 我想申请烹饪学校
After high school, I wanted to apply to cooking school.
当我跟妈妈说 我真的很想学烹饪时...
When I told my mom that I really want to cook...
她说 "不行"
Mom's just like, "No, no."
我父母不允许
My parents, they don't allow that.
你必须要考个学位
You have to have a degree.
跟妈妈沟通后
Negotiating with my mom,
我选择了
I chose a bachelor of
餐饮管理的商科学位
business in restaurant and catering management,
因为这是与烹饪最接近的学位
because that is the closest to cooking with a degree.