里克·斯坦的西班牙式圣诞节（2012）

里奥哈 西班牙北部城市 以葡萄酒闻名
里奥哈可能是西班牙最小的地区之一
Rioja may be one of Spain's smallest regions,
但我在那儿也发现了许多宝贵的财富
but I discovered an abundance of riches there.
除了著名的葡萄酒种植酿造商外
Apart from its wine growers,
在圣洛伦索山脉的丘陵地区
a mother and son team are making a real name for themselves
一个名叫兹卡拉伊的小镇上
in the small town of Ezcaray
一支母子烹饪团队如今也声名鹊起
on the foothills of the San Lorenzo mountains.
玛丽莎·桑切斯·加西亚和她的儿子弗朗西斯
Marisa Sanchez Garcia and her son, Francis,
改制了一间
have transformed an old coaching house
原本供马车过夜休息的旧马房♥
that once served as an overnight stop for carriages
将其变为了举国闻名的大餐厅
into a national success.
如今 这家餐厅吸引了众多传统菜肴的拥趸
Today, the business caters for lovers of traditional cuisine
开♥发♥了许多独一无二的美食
and the ground-breaking cooking that Spanish chefs
西班牙的大厨们可是最擅长创新的
seem to be excelling at.
厨房♥的一端
At one end of this kitchen,
大厨们负责米其林星级餐厅的烹饪
we have a Michelin-starred restaurant
而另一端 弗朗西斯的母亲全权负责
and the other end, Francis's mother is in control
最地道的里奥哈菜肴的制♥作♥
of just a very traditional Riojan restaurant.
我来到西班牙最大的原因
My main reason for coming to Spain, of course,
就是为了享受当地的美食
as far as I'm concerned, is all those local dishes.
比如西班牙炖菜 海鲜饭
The fabadas, the paellas,
以及那些搭配着香肠 豆子和可口海鲜的菜肴
things with chorizos, beans, lovely seafood - all that sort of thing.
但这儿也十分有趣
But this is also really interesting.
目前全球最顶级的50家餐厅中
In the top 50 restaurants in the world,
大概有10家是西班牙餐馆
probably 10 of them now are Spanish.
而这10家西班牙餐厅中
Not only Spanish, most of them
大部分都来自西班牙北部地区
come from this part of northern Spain.
利用当季新鲜食材
There's a real new movement
制♥作♥精致私房♥菜
afoot to create really perfect little dishes
正成为当前餐厅的新趋势
using very seasonal ingredients.
这也是弗朗西斯最擅长的
That's what Francis excels at.
但同时 这些新兴的美食
But also, most of the dishes
也都源自传统烹饪
do have their origins in the traditional cooking.
弗朗西斯只是对其进行改造 并大获成功
He's just doing a new slant on it and it's really successful.
弗朗西斯对烹饪的热忱令我格外钦佩
I was really impressed with Francis's enthusiasm
他的很多创新也代表了当地最杰出的烹饪作品
and some of his ideas representing the best local produce.
但我最感兴趣的还是那道传统的里奥哈鳕鱼干
But my real interest was in the traditional Riojan bacalao dish.
圣诞假期中 这道菜我是一定要尝一尝的
I'll definitely be doing this over the Christmas holidays.
玛丽莎将腌制的鳕鱼块排好
Marisa simply arranges pieces of salt cod or bacalao
放进一个大而浅的平锅中
into a wide shallow pan
鳕鱼块都是事先浸泡过的
having pre-soaked them
浸泡过程中 需要换几次水
and changed the water on at least a couple of occasions.
快瞧瞧这些红艳艳的五彩椒
Look at the colour of these red goat's horn peppers.
里奥哈九月的艳阳
They're dried in the heat of the late September sun
风干了这些辣椒
in towns all over Rioja and find their way
成为许多当地菜中不可或缺的配料
into many of its regional dishes.
鳕鱼块需煮上个五六分钟
She poaches the cod for five to six minutes
弗朗西斯再帮忙沥干所有水分
and Francis helps to drain off the liquor,
将它们翻个个儿 并涂上厚厚的酱料
keeping some of it back to add more consistency to the sauce.
这种浓郁的里奥哈酱料
This rich Riojana sauce
是事先用食物加工器准备好的
had already been pre-prepared in a food processor.
红辣椒在下锅之前也是提前煮过的
The red peppers were previously roasted before being added
然后再和炸洋葱 蒜 甘椒粉和番茄酱混合
to fried onions, garlic, pimenton powder and tomato sauce.
好了
Voila!
这盘红得耀眼的菜肴在我看来就象征了里奥哈
The striking scarlet of this dish is Rioja on a plate for me.
巧的是 "里奥哈"是指
Incidentally, the term "A la Riojana" refers to dishes
用里奥哈著名的红辣椒做的菜
made from their famous red peppers,
倒是与红酒无关了
not the wine.
看到弗朗西斯母子
It's great to see both
彼此分享各自的烹饪经验
mother and son treating each cooking experience
以此增进厨艺 改进菜单 真是有爱
as a means of improving their dishes for future menus.
我和我儿子杰克在帕德斯托
It's something I like to do regularly with my son Jack
也常常如此
back in Padstow.
玛丽莎最后认为 这道菜还得多加点盐
Well, Marisa's final verdict is that it needs more salt.
非常棒
Very good.
但弗朗西斯觉得 已经很完美了
But for Francis, it's a winner.
家庭聚会在西班牙可是头等大事
Family gatherings in Spain are sacrosanct
而准备一顿丰盛的宴席也是必不可少的
and must take centre-stage by preparing a real treat.
这道鳕鱼干对任何一桌圣诞节宴席
This salt cod dish would make an impressive addition
都可谓锦上添花
to any Christmas menu.
吉尔莫刚刚对我说
Guillermo's just told me
我能参加这次聚会 玛丽莎非常高兴
that Marisa's very pleased I came to her house
因为她的这些孩子们
because all her children
家里要宽敞许多 他们也想让我去家里做客
have got bigger houses and they all wanted me
和他们共进午餐
to go to lunch with them
而我最终还是选择了来她家 所以她很开心
but she's very pleased that I've come here.
真是个有爱的大家庭
So it's lovely, actually.
这道鳕鱼干 里奥哈鳕鱼干
This bacalao... bacalao Riojana?
-里奥哈的鳕鱼干 -里奥哈的鳕鱼干
- Bacalao a la Riojana. - A la Riojana.
口感与新鲜鳕鱼几乎无异 它鲜嫩而多汁
It's almost like fresh. It's very moist, very juicy.
因为辣椒的缘故 里面的酱汁也非常带劲
The sauce is so vibrant, the peppers in it.
西班牙仿佛与辣椒是密不可分的
The Spanish and peppers are sort of synonymous really.
我想 这可能因为
I was thinking it's probably
西班牙与南美洲联♥系♥紧密
because of the South American connection
西班牙曾在南美洲建立大量殖民地
辣椒对于西班牙人真的太重要了
but they're so important
而且他们也善于用辣椒烧得一手好菜
and they know how to cook them so well.
快看看这盘菜吧
Look at that plate -
这在我眼中就是西班牙的颜色
it's the colours of Spain to me.
不得不说 这是一次完美的味觉享受
Thoroughly enjoying it, I must say.
明天菜的会更好
Mas bueno para manana.
-明天的会更好 -明天的更好
- Better tomorrow? - Manana.
明天的菜会更好 明儿我再来
Better tomorrow. I'll be back.
西班牙人♥民♥的好客之情深深感染了我
The Spanish love for hospitality had a profound effect on me.
我想 那句老话或许所言不假
I wonder if the old adage is true,
灿烂的阳光和温暖的气候
that sunshine and warmer climes
让人胃口大开 想要呼朋引伴
give you a bigger appetite for social occasions.
贝尔维斯·索里亚诺
Belvis Soriano
是我在卡斯蒂利亚-拉曼恰的导游
is my guide in Castilla la Mancha.
卡斯蒂利亚-拉曼查 西班牙的一个自治区
拉曼查一词源自阿♥拉♥伯语
La Mancha comes from the original Arabic term
意为"炎热的土地"
for parched earth.
很难相信那样恶劣的环境也能出产作物
Difficult to believe that anything could grow in that climate
但那儿的一座小镇 以著名的腌汁茄子
but a small town in the region has got the whole of Spain
拴住了所有西班牙人的心
hooked on its pickled aubergines.
还记得这个吗
Do you remember them?
-阿尔马格罗的茄子 -没错
- Almagro. - Yes.
卡斯蒂利亚-拉曼恰的特产
Castilla la Mancha, of course.
我爱极了
I love these.
-非常美味 我能吃一个吗 -当然
- A real delicacy, do you mind if I have one? - Yes.
-你是大老远地从西班牙拿来的吗 -是啊
- You've brought these all the way from Spain? - Yes, I did.
抱歉 差点忘了
Sorry, I forgot.
这中间塞了一根茴香呢
It has a little bit of fennel stuffed in there.
茴香也是可以吃的
You can try that.
在西班牙的所有地区中
La Mancha probably made more of an impression on me
拉曼查给我的印象最为深刻
than any other region,
那里符合人们对西班牙所有的想象
because it's an area one would romantically imagine Spain to be.
高大的风车磨坊勾画出天空的轮廓
A skyline of windmills make
构成了一幅令人难以忘怀的美丽风景
an unforgettable landscape
拉曼查之所以永垂不朽 还得益于
and the province is immortalised through the adventures
当地英雄堂吉诃德与他的冒险经历
of its local hero, Don Quixote.
这片土地属于文森特·马浪
These fields belong to Vicente Malagon.
位于阿尔马格罗的郊外
They're on the outskirts of the town of Almagro.
阿尔马格罗
隶属西班牙拉曼查自治区 雷阿尔省
茄子是大概1000年前
The aubergines come from the Arab people
由阿♥拉♥伯人传入西班牙的
about 1,000 years ago
而阿♥拉♥伯人又是从印度带来的
and they bring with them the aubergines from India.
要是想把茄子做成罐头
When you jar the aubergines,
需要添加什么食材 做成什么风味的呢
what else goes in, what flavours?
阿尔马格罗 茄子生产厂
配料有红辣椒 大蒜 橄榄油 醋
Paprika, garlic, olive oil, vinegar.
我们将茄子切开
We cut the eggplants,