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And that's why I'm talking to you about the psychology of dress.
这就是为什么我要和你们谈论穿衣心理学
Try and express yourselves better in your dress.
试着在服装上更好地表达你自己
Bring out certain things that you think are hidden.
展现出你认为被掩盖的东西
I wonder if you've thought about this angle of your personality.
我想知道你们是否从这个角度思考过你的个性
I'd like to ask you some questions...Why do you like short skirts?
我想问你些问题…为什么你喜欢短裙?
Oh, because there's more to see...
哦,因为那样可以看到更多...
More to see, eh? What good does that do you?
看到更多?这么做有什么好处呢?
It makes you more attractive. oh, it does?
那让你变得更有吸引力 真的吗?
In 1927 an American journalist wrote:
1927年,一位美国记者写道
A change has come over our democracy,it is called consumptionism.
有种变化已经影响到我们的民♥主♥,它叫做“消费主义”
The American citizens first importance to his country is now no longer that of citizen,
美国人对于国家的首要性,现已不再是公民
but that of consumer.
而是它的消费者
The growing wave of consumerism helped in turn
不断增长的消费主义浪潮
to create a stock market boom.
反过来催生了股票市场的繁荣
And yet again Edward Bernays became involved.
而爱德华•伯奈斯再次参与其中
Promoting the novel idea that ordinary people should buy shares,
提倡普通人应该购买♥♥股票的新观念
borrowing money from banks, that he also represented.
还包括从银行贷款消费
And yet again, millions followed his advice.
数百万人再一次听从了他的建议
He was uniquely knowledgeable about
他对人群有着独道的见解
Peter Strauss - 1948-1952
彼得 · 施特劳斯 Bernays的雇员
how people in large numbers are going to react to products and ideas,
即大众对于产品和想法如何反应
but in practical terms if he were to go out
但在实际上,如果他出门
I can't imagine he could get three people to stand and listen.
我无法想象他能让三个人好好听他说话
He wasn't particularly articulate, he was kind of funny looking,
他不太善于表达,看上去还有点滑稽
and didn't have any sense of reaching out for people one on one. None at all.
他没有一对一进行沟通的能力,完全没有
He didn't talk about, didn't think about people in groups of one,
他不谈论、不考虑团体中的个人
he thought about people in groups of thousands.
他考虑的是团体中的千万人
Bernays soon became famous as the man who understood the mind of the crowd,
伯奈斯很快便以深谙大众心理而闻名
and in 1924 the President contacted him.
1924年总统联♥系♥了他
President Coolidge was a quiet taciturn man and had become a national joke.
柯立芝总统是一位寡言少语的人,而且成了全国的笑柄
The press portrayed him as a dull humorless figure.
报纸把他描绘成一位乏味呆板的人物
Bernays' solution was to do exactly the same as he had done with products.
伯奈斯的解决方案就跟他对产品所做的一样
He persuaded 34 famous film stars to visit the White House,
他说服了34位著名影星访问白宫
and for the first time politics became involved with public relations.
这是政♥治♥首次涉及到了公共关系
And I lined up these 34 people and I'd say what's your name,
我让这34个人站成一排,我问“你叫什么名字?”
and he'd say Al Jolson, and I'd say Mr. President, Al Jolson.
他说“艾尔•乔尔森”
The next day every newspaper in the United States had a front page story:
第二天美国所有的报纸都有了头版故事
"President Coolidge Entertains Actors at White House".
“柯立芝总统在白宫招待了演员”
And the Times had a headline which said "President Nearly Laughed"
时代周刊的头条则说“总统几乎笑了”
and everybody was happy.
皆大欢喜
But while Bernays became rich and powerful in nAmerica, in Vienna his uncle was facing disaster.
当伯奈斯在美国名利双收时,他在维也纳的舅舅正面临灾祸
Like much of Europe Vienna was suffering an economic crisis and massive inflation
如同欧洲大部分地区一样,维也纳正遭受一场经济危机
which wiped out all of Freud's' savings.
剧烈的通货膨胀摧毁了弗洛伊德所有的储蓄
Facing bankruptcy he wrote to his nephew for help.
面对破产,他写信给外甥寻求帮助
Bernays responded by arranging for Freud's works to be published for the first time in America,
作为回应,伯奈斯安排弗洛伊德的著作在美国首次出版
and began to send his uncle precious dollars which Freud kept secretly in a foreign bank account.
并寄给舅舅许多宝贵的美元
He was Freud's "agent"
他是弗洛伊德的代理人
if you will, to get his books published.
假如你愿意,让他的书出版
Well of course, once the books were being published,
那么当然了,一旦书开始印刷
Eddie couldn't help himself but to promote these books;
埃迪就控制不了自己去促销这些书
see that everybody read them, make them controversial;
让每个人都去读,让它充满争议
emphasize the fact that "do you know what Freud says about sex?"
而且强调“你知道弗洛伊德是如何谈性的吗?"
and what he thinks cigarettes are a symbol of and so on and so forth...
还有他认为香烟象征着什么,诸如此类
How do you suppose all those stories got out?
你以为这些事是怎么传开的?
Certainly the academics weren't spreading these around the country, Eddie Bernays was...
学者们当然不会在国内传播这些,但埃迪 • 伯奈斯会...
Then when Freud became accepted,
而当弗洛伊德已被接受
well then of course to go to a client and go well‘Uncle Siggy'
接下来就能顺理成章地去见“西格舅舅”的客户了
see then that had some cache.
看,然后就有收获了
But notice there, first Eddie created Uncle Siggy in the US, made him acceptable secondly,
注意,埃迪先在美国首创了“西格舅舅”并让大家接受
and thirdly then, capitalized on Uncle Siggy.
然后再从中获益
Typical Bernays performance.
典型的伯奈斯式做法
Bernays also suggested Freud promote himself in the United States.
伯奈斯也劝说弗洛伊德在美国推销他自己
He proposed his uncle write an article for Cosmopolitan, the magazine that Bernays represented,
他建议舅舅为自己代表的《世界见闻》杂♥志♥写篇文章
entitled 'A Woman's Mental Place in the Home'.
题为“女人在家庭中的精神位置”
Freud was furious. Such an idea he said was unthinkable,
弗洛伊德很愤怒,他说这简直难以想象
it was vulgar and anyway, he hated America.
不管怎样都很粗俗,他讨厌美国
Freud was becoming increasingly pessimistic about human beings.
弗洛伊德对人性变得越发悲观
In the mid 20s he retreated in the summers to the Alps,
20年代中期,他在夏天避居到阿尔卑斯山
sometimes staying in an old hotel, the Pension Moritz in Berchtesgaden.
有时住在贝希特斯加登的一家莫里茨养老院中
It is now a ruin.
现在那里已是废墟
Freud began to write about group behavior;
弗洛伊德开始写作有关群体行为的书
about how easily the unconscious aggressive forces of human beings
关于人类潜意识的侵略性力量
could be triggered when they were in crowds.
在群体中有多么容易被触发
Freud believed he had underestimated the aggressive instincts within human beings;
弗洛伊德相信,他过去低估了人类内在的侵略本能
they were far more dangerous than he had originally thought.
它们远比他预想的危险
After World War-I, Freud was basically a pessimist.
第一次世界大战后,弗洛伊德基本上是个悲观主义者
Dr. Ernst Federn
恩内斯特·费登 维也纳精神分♥析♥师
He felt that man is an impossible creature
他觉得人类是一种不可思议的生物
and a very sadistic and bad species
一个非常残忍♥恶劣的物种
and did not believe that man can be improved.
他不相信人类能够进步
Man is a ferocious animal,
人是一种残暴的动物
the most ferocious animal that exists.
是现存的最残忍♥的物种
They enjoy torturing and killing
他们享受折磨和杀戮
and he didn't like man.
他不喜欢人类
The publication of Freud's works in America
20世纪20年代,弗洛伊德的著作在美国
had an extraordinary effect on journalists and intellectuals in the 1920s.
对记者和知识分子有着巨大的影响
What fascinated and frightened them was the picture Freud painted of submerged dangerous forces
弗洛伊德所描绘的画面让他们既着迷又害怕
lurking just under the surface of modern society.
那些隐含的危险力量就潜伏在现代社会的表象之下
Forces that could erupt easily to produce the frenzied mob which had the power to destroy even governments.
这种力量很容易喷发,甚至造出有力量摧毁政♥府♥的暴徒
It was this they believed had happened in Russia.
他们相信俄♥国♥发生的事就是这样的
To many this meant one of the guiding principles of mass democracy was wrong;
对许多人来说,这意味着大众民♥主♥的指导原则之一是错误的
the belief that human beings could be trusted to make decisions on a rational basis.
即确信人类可以在理性的基础上做出决定
The leading political writer, Walter Lippmann argued that
首屈一指的政♥治♥作者沃尔特•李普曼争辩说
if human beings were in reality driven by unconscious irrational forces
如果人类真是被潜意识、非理性力量所驱使的话
then it was necessary to re-think democracy.
那就有必要重新考虑民♥主♥了
What was needed was a new elite that could manage what he called the bewildered herd.
我们需要的是一个新精英阶层
This would be done through psychological techniques that would control the unconscious feelings of the masses.
这可以通过控制大众潜意识感受的
And so here you have Walter Lippmann,
你该听说过沃尔特 • 李普曼
probably the most influential political thinker in the United States,
他可能是美国最有影响力的政♥治♥思想家
who is essentially saying the basic mechanism of the mass mind is unreason,
他的基本观点是,大众的基本心理机制是无由的
is irrationality, is animality.
非理性的,兽♥性♥的
He believes that the mob in the street, which is how he sees ordinary people,
他相信街上的暴徒是受他们的脊髓神经驱使
are people who are driven not by their minds but by their spinal chords.
而不是受理智驱使,这就是他眼中的普通人
The notion of animal drives, unconscious and instinctual drives,
兽♥性♥本能、潜意识和本能的驱力这些概念
lurking beneath the surface of civilization;
潜伏在文明世界的表象之下
and so they started looking towards psychological science
于是他们开始期待于心理学科
as a way of understanding the mechanisms by which the popular mind works
将其作为理解大众心理运作的途径
specifically with the goal of figuring out
目的尤其是,如何能理解它们
how to understand and how to apply those mechanisms to strategies for social control.
并将机制应用于社会控制的策略
Edward Bernays was fascinated by Lippmann's arguments
爱德华•伯奈斯对李普曼的论点很感兴趣
and also saw a way to promote himself by using them.
而且发现了一个利用它们推销自己的方法
In the 1920s he began to write a series of books
20世纪20年代时,他开始写一系列书籍
which argued that he had developed the very techniques that Lippmann was calling for.
宣称他已经发展出李普曼所需求的技术
By stimulating people's inner desires and then sating them with consumer products
通过刺♥激♥人们的内在欲求,然后用消费品满足他们
he was creating a new way to manage the irrational force of the masses.
他正在创建一种新方法来控制大众的非理性力量
He called it "The engineering of consent".
他称之为“求同工程”
Democracy to my father was a wonderful concept,
民♥主♥对于我父亲是一个神奇的概念
Ann Bernays
安·伯奈斯 伯奈斯之女
but I don't think he felt that all those publics out there had reliable judgment,
但我不认为他觉得外面那些公众都有可靠的判断力
and that they very easily might vote for the wrong man or want the wrong thing;
他们可能轻易投票给错误的人或错的事物
so that they had to be guided from above.
因此他们必须接受来自上层的指导
It's enlightened despotism in a sense.
从某种意义上,这是开明的专♥制♥主义
You appeal to their desires and unrecognized longings, that sort of thing.
你调动他们的欲望和未知的渴望,诸如此类
That you can tap into their deepest desires or their deepest fears and use that to your own purposes.
你可以挖掘他们内心深处的欲望或恐惧
and use that to your own purposes.
并利用这些达到你自己的目的
And then in 1928 a President came to power, who agreed with Bernays.
1928年一位总统上台掌权,他赞同伯奈斯
President Hoover was the first politician to articulate the idea
胡佛总统是第一个阐明这一想法的政♥治♥家
that consumerism would become the central motor of American life.
即消费主义将会变成美国生活的核心动力
After his election he told a group of advertisers and public relations men:
当选后,他告诉了一群广♥告♥商和公♥关♥人员
"You Have taken over the job of creating desire"
“你们已经接管了创造欲望的工作”
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