解释一切（2018）

‪每段时期都会出现某种爆款的造型
[woman 1] There is definitely a look that is very on trend
‪每次打开SnapChat或Instagram ‪就可以看出一二
and you see it anytime you open SnapChat or Instagram.
‪“可乐型”身材
[woman 2] The Coca-Cola body.
‪“吉他型”身材
[man 1] Shaped like a guitar.
‪很多人把在Instagram上 ‪看到的美女身材形容成“沙漏”
[woman 3] I think a lot of people think the Instagram body is hourglass.
‪我认为更像“汤匙”
And I think it's actually more of the spoon shape.
‪这种身材总是会搭配某种特定的脸蛋
[narrator] And that body is often paired with a certain kind of face.
‪大嘴唇、狐媚眼
[man 2] Big lips, the fox eyes.
‪小鼻子
[woman 1] A slim little nose.
‪就像凯莉詹娜那种类型的样貌
[woman 4] I guess like Kylie Jenner and like that kind of group.
‪我绝对认为Instagram上展现的外貌 ‪不是真的
[woman 5] I definitely think the Instagram look is not real.
‪这要取决于我们对“真”的定义是什么
[narrator] It depends what you mean by real.
‪没错 某些脸孔可能通过预设滤镜
It's true, some of those faces may have been altered with preset filters
‪以及类似美图秀秀的应用修饰过
or using apps like Facetune,
‪这些功能让人能瞬间修饰照片
where you can make minute tweaks to your photo,
‪调整大小、磨皮、改变脸部结构
resizing, smoothing, shifting the very structure of your face.
‪这些“微整容”会反映在我们脸上
There are all of these slight tweaks that we've been able to see on ourselves.
‪也越来越多有能力追求整形的人
And more and more people with the access to pursue them
‪开始将那张修饰过的脸蛋 ‪应用在现实生活中
are starting to adopt that face for themselves in real life.
‪过去十年以来
[narrator] The number  of cosmetic procedures
美容整形手术数量增加了将近两倍
has nearly doubled in the last decade.
‪整形手术越来越安全、便宜和精致
They've gotten safer, cheaper, and more sophisticated.
‪接受整形手术的人 ‪也越来越年轻和多元化
And the patients receiving them have gotten younger and more diverse.
‪感觉上我们正在往一个
It feels like we're moving toward a future
可以彻底改变容貌的未来迈进
where our appearances are fundamentally changeable.
‪那这是坏事吗？
So, is that a bad thing?
‪整形手术是不是正在改变 ‪我们看待自己的方式？
And, is plastic surgery changing the way we see ourselves?
‪一旦康复后 ‪你就会变成一个全新的人
You will be an entirely different man by the time the healing is complete.
‪NETFLIX 原创纪录片
青春的泉源就在一支无痛注射器里
[man] A fountain of youth at the end of a relatively painless syringe.
‪但不能保证一切都会有美好的结局
[woman] But there's no guarantee it will all end in smiles.
‪我认为他们要准备好受点疼
I think they need to expect a little bit of pain.
‪重点是尽可能延长颜值高峰期
Well, it's a matter of looking the best you can for as long as you can.
‪我的感觉绝对不同了 ‪因为我的容貌从未改变过
It makes no difference what I'm feeling. My face never changes!
[laughter]
‪剧名：整形手术
‪我们都对维持外貌所做出的努力 ‪可以用光谱来划分
[Cattrall] The things we do to look good exist on a spectrum.
‪在一端 有洗澡
On one end, you have things like taking a shower,
‪化妆、染发
wearing makeup, dyeing your hair.
‪这些事很久以前就被认同了
That's long been considered good.
‪毕竟这是在加强自然美
Enhancing your natural beauty.
‪聊到对“美”的定义
As soon as you start looking at the language of beauty,
‪谈“美”离不开“道德伦理”
beauty talk is moral talk.
‪“美”总是与“道德伦理”脱不了关系
It's just got morality all over it.
‪于是有人说：“你值得 你配得
So, "You deserve it. You're worth it."
‪别放弃自己 不应该放弃自己”
"Don't let yourself go. You shouldn't have let yourself go."
‪被羞辱、责怪、赞美、奖赏时
Anytime you get shame, blame, praise, reward,
‪我们都会被贴上道德标签
then you've got a moral claim going on.
‪在光谱的另一端
[Cattrall] Then, on the other end of the spectrum,
‪是指风险比较高、要承受更大的痛苦 ‪效果也较为持久的手段
things are riskier, more painful, more permanent.
‪人们也会对这种种行为指指点点
And people make moral judgments about that too.
‪就拿2004年风靡美国 ‪火爆出圈的真人秀《天鹅选美》为例
Take The Swan, a 2004 reality show that whipped America into a frenzy.
‪制♥作♥组也知道他们在挑战道德极限
The show knew it was pushing boundaries, calling itself…
‪这是史上最不寻常的竞赛型真人秀
The most unusual competition ever devised.
‪一组整形外科医生
[Cattrall] A team of surgeons,
‪加上医美牙医、心理治疗师 ‪教练和人生导师
plus a cosmetic dentist, therapist, trainer, and life coach,
‪携手将自认是丑小鸭的女嘉宾 ‪“雕塑”成天鹅
crafted self-described ugly ducklings into swans,
‪然后将她们摆上舞台 ‪来个终极选美大赛
and then pitted them against each other in a final beauty pageant.
‪观众为之疯狂
Viewers loved it.
‪节目创下每周百万的收视率
Millions tuned in every week.
‪但是时评人几乎一面倒地给予劣评
But reviewers, they reacted with near-universal horror.
‪他们用“差劲”、“荒谬” ‪“令人痛心和嫌恶”来形容这档节目
They called it ghastly, ridiculous, hurtful, and repellent.
‪甚至登上CNN黄金时段
It even made it onto CNN Primetime.
‪你没把她们变丑 ‪更没把她们变得相貌平平
You don't make them ugly. And you don't even make them mediocre.
‪你为她们打扮 给了她们“胸部”
I mean, you dress 'em up, and, you know, you give them breasts.
‪不幸的是 有人给予节目劣评
Unfortunately, some people reacted negatively to the show.
‪欣蒂是第一季的参赛者
[Cattrall] Cindy was a contestant on Season 1.
‪我就从脸部开始说起吧
[Ingle] I'll start from the top.
‪我做了提眉手术
So I had an eyebrow lift.
‪颧骨填充手术、眼底脂肪去除术
I had cheek implants. I had some fat removed under my eyes.
‪颊脂垫去除术 ‪下巴缩小术、微型拉皮术
I had buccal fat removal, chin reduction, and a mini face-lift.
‪隆胸术、腹部整形手术
Breast augmentation. Then I had a tummy tuck.
‪大腿内侧也做了轻微的抽脂术
And light liposuction on my inner thighs.
‪生下第二胎后
I started giving plastic surgery more thought
‪我开始考虑做整形手术
after my second child.
‪当时我的身体外形经历了巨大的变化
My body had went through such a physical change.
‪给儿子哺乳后 我的乳♥房♥♥严重变形
After I finished nursing my son, my breasts were just really misshapen.
‪无论做多少次运动 ‪仰卧卷腹、仰卧起坐
No matter how much exercise or crunches, sit-ups I would do,
‪我都甩不掉产后形成的大肚腩
I was not losing my baby belly.
‪但他们是一对年轻的夫妇
[Cattrall] But they were a young family
没钱做医美手术
and couldn't spare the money for cosmetic surgery.
‪所以当《天鹅选美》选角组 ‪通过电台广播招募女嘉宾时
So when The Swan had a casting call commercial on the radio,
‪那一刻 我知道起码要去尝试看看
at that point, I knew that I needed to at least try.
‪-她没有丝毫后悔 ‪-我对结果非常满意
[Cattrall] And she has no regrets. -I'm very happy with the results.
‪我吓了一跳 我有了纤细的腰围
That freaked me out. I had a teeny, tiny waist.
‪我以前从未有过腰线
I'd never really had a waist before.
‪非常喜欢我的鼻子
Love my nose. Love my nose.
那天我非常开心 挺厉害的I was really happy that day. It's kind of cool.
‪那一季节目播出后
[Cattrall] After that season came out,
‪50万名女性申请参加下一季
half a million women applied to be on the next one.
‪愿意上电视接受整形手术的人
More people than live in the entire country of Iceland
‪比冰岛人口还多
were willing to go on television to get plastic surgery.
‪2000年代初 ‪我们对“美”的定义有了质的飞跃
In the early 2000s, our idea of extreme was changing.
‪但其实整个“美”的光谱 ‪在过去将近100年以来
But this whole spectrum had actually been shifting gradually
‪一直在缓慢地♥产♥生变化
for almost a hundred years.
[loud gunfire]
‪第一次世界大战 ‪是人类前所未见的灾难
World War I was like nothing humanity had ever seen before.
‪现代化武器、坦克、机关枪、毒气 ‪导致数以百万计人丧命
Modern weaponry, tanks, machine guns, poison gas killed millions,
‪把城市化为废墟
reduced cities to rubble,
‪留下一代人都是伤兵
and left in their wake a generation of injured soldiers,
‪多数士兵的容貌 ‪被榴霰弹片和子弹损毁
many of them with faces disfigured by shrapnel and bullets.
‪外科医生从没见过这种伤势
Surgeons had never seen injuries like these before.
为了治好他们 医生必须拿出创意
So to fix them, they had to get creative.
‪提取肋软骨来塑造鼻梁
Crafting noses out of cartilage borrowed from ribs,
‪提取腿骨来重塑损毁的下巴
reforming shattered jaws with bits of leg bone,
‪提取脂肪和细胞组织来填充颊骨
and filling in hollowed cheeks with patients' own fat and tissue.
‪外科医生连续几年 ‪为同样的病人进行治疗
Surgeons spent years working on the same patients,
‪尽可能恢复他们原来的容貌
striving to make them look like themselves again.
‪如果无法通过提取骨肉 ‪来恢复病人的容貌
And if they couldn't do that with flesh alone,
‪外科医生会雇用真正的艺术家 ‪为病人塑造乳胶面具
they hired actual artists to craft prosthetic masks.
‪他们的作品除了着重于功能
Their work wasn't just about function.
‪也着重于形态
It was about form.
‪一名活跃于 ‪第一次世界大战期间的外科医生
One of those World War I surgeons
‪后来被誉为整形手术始祖
is now sometimes known as the father of aesthetic surgery.
‪约瑟夫医生写道
As Joseph wrote,
‪“那些只想恢复正常样貌
"Someone who simply wants a normal appearance,
‪不想招徕异样目光的人
wishes to be inconspicuous,
‪不应该遭人嗤之以鼻”
should not suffer the odium of vanity."
‪约瑟夫不仅治疗伤口
He didn't just treat the wounded.
‪他和所治疗的大多数病人皆为犹太人
Joseph was Jewish, and so were many of his patients,
‪后者希望他能帮助他们 ‪去除脸上的民族标志
who wanted him to erase the markers of their ethnicity,
‪以避免他们在那个
allowing them to be inconspicuous
对犹太人充满敌意的社会中 ‪招徕异样的目光
in a society that was hostile towards them.
‪也是约瑟夫医生将整形手术
He helped put plastic surgery on the spectrum
‪列入维持容貌手段的范畴之内
as something you could do for aesthetics alone.
‪20世纪中期
In the mid '20s,
半数美国人每星期都要上电影院
half of America was going to the movies every week
‪许多初露头角的明星
and lots of budding stars were having their faces shuffled
‪为了登上大银幕 纷纷整容变脸
and reassembled for the screen,
‪毕竟他们都是“靠脸吃饭”的人
because those faces were their stock-in-trade.
‪美国喜剧演员范妮布莱斯 ‪以其整形鼻风靡一时
Comedian Fanny Brice famously got a new nose,
‪男神鲁道夫华伦天奴也曾重塑耳形
and heartthrob Rudolph Valentino had his ears reshaped.
‪在1924年 ‪一家报社举办了一项