主厨的餐桌：烧烤（2020）

It sort of sits on its own, quite isolated.
‎这家餐厅坐落在重山之间
Between the mountains, there's this restaurant
‎就像是
just, like, there,
‎被上帝放在了那里一样
as if it was almost placed there by God.
‎我进了楼下的酒吧
I went into the downstairs bar.
‎我看到一个人独自站在烤架前
I could see a man alone on the grill.
‎很大块的木头被送进炉子里
Giant pieces of wood would go into the oven.
‎余火未尽的木块被拿出来
Hot embers would be coming out.
‎食材被放到不同烤架上
Ingredients would go on different grills.
‎滑轮上下转动
Pulleys would go up and down.
‎维克多的料理手法非常轻松
The way in which Victor cooked was effortless.
‎看起来像是某种舞蹈
It was almost like a form of dance.
‎这个男人在与火交流和起舞
This man conversing and dancing with fire.
‎我想学习他的做法
I wanted to learn how to do that.
‎维克多出来看了我的简历
Victor came out and looked at my CV,
‎询问我的经历
asked about my experience.
‎他比较关注的一点是
The one thing he was quite keen about
‎他不在乎米其林星级
was he wasn't interested in Michelin Stars.
‎这对我很不利 ‎因为我会的就是这一套
And it was so opposing for me because that's what I had to offer.
‎不看那些米其林餐厅
Like, take away the Michelin restaurants,
‎我就没有别的东西了 只有我自己
I didn't have anything else, I just had me, you know,
‎还有我为此付出的各种努力
and all the hard work I could throw at it.
‎但他嘟哝了几句
He grunted a little bit,
‎说："好 你明天开始上班吧"
and says, "Okay, you can start tomorrow."
‎刚开始跟维克多一起工作...
When I started working with Victor,
‎我觉得...
it was...
‎很奇怪
bizarre.
‎他不会说英语
He didn't speak English.
‎我不会说西班牙语
I didn't speak Spanish.
‎你能看到他在做很多事情
You could see there was a lot going on there,
‎但他不是那种会跟你演示
but he was never the kind of guy who was gonna demonstrate something
‎或者讲解的人
or show you something.
‎所以我觉得最佳的学习方式
So, I felt the best way to learn
‎是尽可能地跟在他身边工作
was to work alongside him in every capacity.
‎维克多每天一早就开始工作了
Victor would start early in the morning,
‎无论他多早开始 我都跟着一起
and however early Victor would start, I would start.
‎我会试试你的想法
I'm gonna try this idea of yours,
‎把它们连壳一起烤
cooking these in the shell.
‎对 在那边多放一点油...
Yeah, if you put more oil in that one side...
‎-这里? ‎-对
Here? - Yeah.
‎-对 ‎-对 然后...
Yeah. - Then...
‎-把它们放进去 ‎-把它们放进去
Sit 'em there? - Sit 'em in there.
‎这多棒呀?
How good is that?
‎观察维克多就是最好的学习
Watching Victor was my greatest reference point.
‎我觉得应该好了
Should be ready.
‎-正好 可以 ‎-对
Just about. - Yep.
‎看到你能这样操控火焰...
Seeing how you could manipulate fire...
‎这些食材用其他方式烹饪会很寡淡...
all these ingredients dulled by other methods of cooking...
‎但被火激发了活力
are suddenly... enlivened.
‎漂亮的蛤蜊
Beautiful clams.
‎美味的龙虾
Amazing lobsters.
‎鲜活的虾
Live prawns.
‎你以为你很了解一种食材
You think you know an ingredient,
‎但用明火烹饪完全是另一回事
but cooking over fire's a whole new ballgame.
‎会拓宽你的眼界
Just opens your eyes.
‎我一下子便从中获得了新生
It suddenly gave me a new lease of life.
‎很好吃吧?
Pretty good, yeah?
‎美味极了
Incredible.
‎在餐厅里吃到螃蟹的时候 ‎我们不会想到...
When we get crab in the restaurant, we don't appreciate it until...
‎-要费多大力气才能抓到它们 ‎-要费很大力气
You do the hard work getting it. - All the work.
‎在海滩边烧烤是最好的方式
Cooked over a fire is the best way.
‎说得对
That's right.
‎早些年
In those early days,
‎我们决定自己尝试
we'd embarked on a mission to set ourselves apart
‎烧烤一切食材
and try and grill everything.
‎我们会把一种食材放到烤架上
We would take an ingredient and put it on a grill
‎看会有什么反应
and see what the reaction was.
‎火焰会有什么反应? ‎食材会有什么反应?
How would the fire react? How would the ingredient react?
‎它们能很好地结合在一起吗?
Would there be a marriage?
‎我们中会有人说点什么 你会觉得： ‎"噢 这也太荒唐了"
One of us would say something, you'd think, "Ridiculous."
‎然后你会想："为什么不试试呢?
Then you think, "Well, why not?
‎我们要是把
Like, what if we grill
‎你能想到的最金贵的食材放到火上 ‎会有什么效果? "
the most delicate ingredient you can think of, subjecting it to fire?"
‎（马洛索鱼子酱）
‎我们不知道这样做行不行
We didn't know if it would be any good.
‎有几个人在探讨烧烤鱼子酱是否可行
There was a couple of people who were disgusted by the idea of grilling caviar.
‎"你这么做不尊重鱼子酱 ‎完全是胡闹"
"Not respecting the caviar, you don't know what you're doing."
‎刚开始尝试时 它吸收了太多热量
In our early efforts, there was too much heat being transmitted.
‎所以我们找到了漂亮的本地海带
So, we got some beautiful, local seaweed.
‎把它放在烤架之上
Let's place the seaweed in between the two,
‎把鱼子酱放到海带上
and sit the caviar on top of the seaweed.
‎这么做
And that was
‎带来了质的飞跃
a game changer.
‎它过滤了海的各种味道
It filters all the flavor of the sea,
‎但保留了海带里的部分水分
but allows a certain amount of moisture in the seaweed
‎保护了上面放的鱼子酱
to protect the caviar that sits above it.
‎当它吸收了余烬的热度之后
And by the time it's just warmed over the embers,
‎风味就完全改变了
the flavor profile has completely changed.
‎它变成了另一种东西 甚至有些缥缈
It transformed into something else, like, almost ethereal.
‎我们花了一年的时间完善它
It took an entire year to perfect,
‎在那期间 我们两个人
and during that period of time, the two of us
‎连结更紧密了
intertwined.
‎我们无时无刻不在一起
We spent every waking moment together.
‎我们是朋友
We were friends,
‎他是我的老板 我的哥哥
he was my boss, he was my brother,
‎从某种意义上说也是我的父亲
my father, in other respects.
‎那应该是我人生中创造力最强的时期
It was probably the most creative period of my life.
‎（烤鱼子酱）
‎你觉得捕虾很简单吗
Would you say prawning is easy
‎还是你觉得这像呼吸一样自然?
or something you're used to, like breathing?
‎这种事只能在工作中学习
It's something you can only learn on the job.
‎对
Right.
‎所有渔夫都会说... 前十年是最难的
And all fishermen would say it's... the first ten years are the worst.
‎你要花费至少十年 ‎才能弄明白自己在做什么
It takes you at least 10 to get some idea of what's going on.
‎你要是坚持到了十年以上...
If you pushed through 10 years, if you make it...
‎你的意志必须要很坚强...
You have to be determined to survive.
‎对
Yeah.
‎不然这个产业会将你排除在外
If you're not, the industry will soon sort that out for you.
‎哇哦
Wow.
‎伦诺克斯在新乡餐厅的同时
The time that Lennox was at Etxebarri
‎它就是在那个时期
coincided with when it went from...
‎由被一部分食客
being sort of an interesting restaurant
‎所谈论 悄悄流传的
that nerdy people,
‎有趣的小餐厅
were talking about and sort of whispering about,
‎进入到了另一个层次
to being in another level.
‎长久以来 这都是一家口口相传
For a long time, it was that word of mouth,
‎老食客们才会去的餐厅...
inner foodie sort of place to go to.
‎但随着餐厅的进步
But as the restaurant progressed,
‎你会被列入名单并且向上爬...
you get on lists, and you climb up lists and...
‎大家会来寻找这家餐厅
people started seeking out the restaurant.
‎然后 餐厅一旦吸引到
And then, as soon as it got on the radar
‎安东尼博戴恩的注意...
of Anthony Bourdain...
‎这绝对是我吃过的最棒的一餐之一
Absolutely one of the great meals of my life.
‎我知道你为什么要呆在这儿了
Now I know why you stayed here.
‎这家餐厅就变得更出名了
...the restaurant became even more popular.
‎大家会从很远的地方赶来 ‎因为他们看到这家餐厅
People would travel far and wide because they'd seen this restaurant
‎然后觉得："哇 这看起来太好吃了"
and they'd gone, "Damn, that looks incredible."
‎然后...
And then...
‎我们获得了米其林评星
we got the Michelin Star.
‎我觉得很有成就感
For me, it was very rewarding.
‎我的辛勤付出得到了肯定
All the hard work was being recognized.
‎想要吗 孩子? 吃虾吗? 吃虾虾吗?