主厨的餐桌：烧烤（2020）

‎我认为明火烹饪是一件有灵性的事
Cooking with fire, for me, it's a little bit spiritual.
‎因为一旦你将火点燃...
Once you start that ignition process...
‎它就拥有了生命
it's something that has a life.
‎一旦点燃了那堆火 你就必须投入
As soon as you light that fire, you're committed.
‎你无法关掉它
You can't switch off.
‎必须看着它直到最后一丝火苗熄灭
You have to see it through to the final flame.
‎但当你拥有了这样的力量...
But when you harness that power,
‎你的所有感官都会觉醒
all of your senses are suddenly awoken.
‎你就处在危险边缘...
You're on this edge of danger,
‎这是一场持久战
and it's a constant battle.
‎因为有掌控权的并不是你
Because you're never fully in control.
‎一切都由火焰操控
The fire's in control.
‎你只是在想办法配合火焰
You're trying to find a way of working with it,
‎但不管你怎么做 火焰都会肆意妄为
but the fire will do what the hell it wants no matter what you do.
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‎（悉尼 澳大利亚）
‎外国人印象最深刻的澳大利亚食物
One of the things outsiders think of when they think of Australian food
‎就是烧烤
is barbecuing.
‎烧烤大虾什么的
That "shrimp on the barbie" thing.
‎虽然很俗套 ‎但这的确是我们生活的一部分
Though it's a cliché, it is part of how we live,
‎这反映了我们喜欢的烹饪方式
and it does reflect how we like to cook.
‎当你听到这些话的时候：
So, when you hear these words,
‎"烧烤餐厅
"Grill restaurant,
‎店里的人完全在用火烤制食物"
where the guy cooks over fire a hundred percent of the time,"
‎你就会想象那个做饭的人没穿鞋子
you expect the person cooking that food isn't wearing shoes.
‎他们手上肯定拿着一瓶啤酒
They almost certainly have a beer in their hand.
‎但火门餐厅完全是另一番光景
At Firedoor, it's completely different.
‎它的厨房♥跟你见过的 ‎所有厨房♥都不一样
The kitchen doesn't look like any kitchen you've ever seen.
‎那里有一个双门烤炉 ‎看起来像地狱之门
There's two wood-fired ovens that look like gates to hell.
‎有人告诉我那个烤炉的温度 ‎足够熔化玻璃
Someone told me they burn at a temperature hot enough to melt glass,
‎这就很有意思
which is fun.
‎不用燃气
There's no gas,
‎不用电
there's no electricity.
‎烹饪食物的唯一方式
The only way to cook the food,
‎唯一方式 就是用火
the only way, is with fire.
‎没有人会那样做
No one does that.
‎太疯狂了
That's crazy.
‎伦诺克斯哈斯蒂绝不妥协
Lennox Hastie never compromises on anything.
‎他严苛到了精神病态的程度
His clinical psychopathy
‎不管是对于烹饪
when it comes to cooking,
‎食材采购
sourcing ingredients,
‎还是生火
and making his fires
‎我从来没见过他那样的
is unlike anything I'd ever seen.
‎与此同时 他的烹饪是温柔细致的...
At the same time, his cooking is gentle, it is subtle.
‎需要持续的控制和关注
It's constant control and constant attention.
‎他曾说过 如果看到一块肉上
He once told me that when he sees a grill line
‎有一条烤架焦痕 就是巨大的失败
on a piece of meat, it's a sign of horrible failure.
‎这个男人会用火
We're talking about a guy who uses fire
‎烹饪生菜
to cook lettuce.
‎他会用火烹饪椰子
He uses fire to cook coconuts.
‎他会用火做面点
He uses fire to cook pastry.
‎他将火视作画笔 而不是锤子...
He considers it to be a paint brush rather than a hammer,
‎用它精细地
to very delicately,
‎温柔地诱哄出
very gently coax out
‎食材本身最棒的风味
the absolute best an ingredient has to offer.
‎明火烹饪
When you're cooking with fire,
‎是很激烈的
it's intense.
‎非常消耗体力
It's physically demanding.
‎还需要非常集中的注意力
It also requires a huge amount of concentration.
‎这就是烹饪界的走钢索
This is high wire cooking.
‎没有安全网的那种
There is no safety net here.
‎大部分用火烹饪的人 看到烧烤
When most people cook with fire, they see a barbecue
‎会认为火只是一种烹饪工具
and think of it as just a piece of equipment.
‎但人类与火的关系远不止于此
But the relationship with humanity and fire goes way beyond that.
‎早在200万年前
As long as two million years ago,
‎人类就开始用火烹饪了
people were cooking with fire.
‎我认为没有任何东西比火
I don't think there was anything else that was a catalyst
‎更促进人类的进化
to our advancement.
‎火使人类聚到一起
Fire brought us all together.
‎我们会围在火堆边
We would gather round the fire,
‎火能带来温暖
it would heat us,
‎能营造出社群的氛围
it would create a sense of community,
‎让我们能进一步发展
and then enabled us to develop further.
‎虽然火有丰富的历史
But despite all this rich history,
‎但它从未被视作精致料理的烹饪方式
it's never been recognized as a fine dining style of cooking.
‎我想打破这个观念
I would just love to crush that.
‎人们总是会觉得火是阳刚的
People's preconceptions of fire, it's always gonna be masculine,
‎强壮
strong,
‎巨大 热烈
big, intense.
‎它不一定总是那个形象
It doesn't have to be that way.
‎它也可以是柔软的...
It can also be soft...
‎精致的...
delicate...
‎有着味觉上的微妙差别
these subtle nuances of flavor.
‎当你将一个那么...
When you take something so...
‎强壮、原始的东西
rugged, so primitive
‎用到精致料理之上...
to that fine dining level...
‎味道是独一无二的
it's like nothing else.
‎所以我喜欢讲述这种烹饪方式
That's why I tell the story of this amazing form of cooking.
‎这里有多少头?
How many head are here?
‎53
53.
‎-这里有50头牛 三头牛犊 ‎-是吗?
So, there's 50 cows, three calves. - Oh, yeah?
‎-它们看起来很棒 ‎-对
They look good. - Yeah.
‎它们的生长环境非常好
They're nicely conditioned.
‎这里的草地 非常棒 哇哦
The grasses, you've got some good grass here. Wow.
‎澳大利亚人非常重视牛肉
Beef is a huge thing in Australia.
‎到处都能看到各种牛排餐馆
There's heaps of steak houses everywhere.
‎如果我要做牛排的话
So, if I was gonna do a steak,
‎我只会挑选最好的那一块牛排
I was only gonna do one steak, and it had to be the best one.
‎怎样才能让东西上一个档次?
What does it mean to take something to the next level?
‎首先 我们会亲自挑选
We start by hand selecting
‎牛群中最棒的2%或者3%
the top two or three percent of the herd.
‎它们都是造物主的奇迹
They're all freaks of nature.
‎在此基础上 我想挑战
Beyond that, I wanted to push the limits
‎熟成牛肉的极限
on where you can go with aging meat.
‎牛肉跟红酒一样
Beef is like wine.
‎熟成时间越久
Age it longer,
‎就越值得等待
it becomes something that's worth waiting for.
‎-那是你的吗? ‎-对
Is that yours? - Yep.
‎那是你的 对
That's yours, yeah.
‎大部分牛肉是干式熟成的
The majority of meat is dry aged.
‎说白了就是可控的腐♥败♥
It's controlled decomposition.
‎把肉吊在这里
So the meat's just left to hang,
‎腐烂
just rotting.
‎牛肉只能熟成到一定程度
There's only so far you can take that meat.
‎这块可以了吗?
There it is, buddy.
‎纹路也很漂亮 看
Nice marbling, look.
‎对 棒极了
Yeah, incredible.
‎我们在尝试着给它涂上油脂
We set about experimenting hand painting it with fat.
‎保护这块牛肉的边缘
Protecting the edges of this beef.
‎这些油脂让你能进一步熟成它
That fat then enables you to take it further.
‎干式熟成的牛肉
Dry aging meat,
‎一般需要30天
30 days is about the norm.
‎极端一点的会到90天
Some extremists take it to 90 days.
‎伦诺克斯会让他的牛肉熟成200天
Lennox takes his beef to 200 days,
‎这太疯狂了
which is insane.
‎肉和脂肪通过熟成结合在一起
Through the aging, the meat and the fat marry together.
‎脂肪能让牛肉
And that fat allows it to glide
‎轻松地划过烤架...
effortlessly across...
‎在上面回温
to temper
‎并且融化
and melt on the grill.
‎这块牛肉放在锅里煎就已经很好吃了