主厨的餐桌：烧烤（2020）

‎随着鼓风 热量的穿透力会更好
With that wind blowing, it's drawing through better.
‎如果回顾一下德州烧烤的历史
If you look at the history of Texas barbecue,
‎都是把木头烧成炭
it was taking wood and burning them down to coals,
‎直接加热烤肉
using that direct heat to cook the meat.
‎也可以说 ‎就是我们现在所说的山地烧烤
Or doing what we now call Hill Country style barbecue.
‎在德州中部 斯♥诺♥是为数不多的 ‎坚持古法烧烤的店铺
Snow's is one of those n Central Texas that still does it the old way.
‎在过去 人们对肉不是很挑剔
Back in those days, people weren't so selective about meat.
‎基本就是农场主 ‎愿意为大型聚会贡献的东西
It was, what were the ranchers willing to give up for a big party?
‎如果像她一样 烹饪很小块的肉
And a lot of the smaller cuts of meat that she cooks,
‎必须更加仔细去料理这些肉
you have to attend to that meat much more often.
‎杜丝小姐的烹饪技巧 ‎是一种乡村烹饪法
Miss Tootsie's cooking technique, this is kind of country cooking.
‎猪排
Pork steak,
‎烤半鸡
chicken by the half,
‎两种香肠
two kinds of sausage,
‎火鸡鸡胸
turkey breast.
‎都是直接用炭火烧烤
It's all over direct coals.
‎这样做的话 稍不留神 就会失败
There's not a lot of room for error when you do that.
‎杜丝是真的在用叉子去叉肉
Tootsie is touching the meat with a fork,
‎检查每一块肉 看看它们的熟成程度
handling each piece of it to check its done-ness.
‎她还会用拖把给肉刷酱
There's a... a mop sauce that she adds onto it as well,
‎用她的拖把刷过酱的肉 ‎胜过一切滋味
and there's no better cut of meat that has been mopped with her mop.
‎杜丝的山地烧烤
Tootsie's Hill Country barbecue.
‎那是在其他地方很难找到的东西
Not something you're gonna find hardly anywhere else,
‎因为没有太多的烧烤大♥师♥
because there aren't a lot of pitmasters
‎愿意把木头烧成炭 再铲进烤炉里
looking to burn wood down to coals and shovel it into pits.
‎没人愿意付出那种辛苦和努力了
Nobody bothers with that sort of hard work and effort
‎除了杜丝和斯♥诺♥烧烤店
except for Tootsie and what they do at Snow's.
‎我毕业之后
After I graduated,
‎我家的一个朋友让我写信
a friend of the family's asked me to write this guy
‎给一名叫做怀特的人 他在军队服役
that was in the Army named White,
‎有一天 爸爸挥手让我回家
and one day Daddy waved me to the house.
‎我走过去 ‎看到一个穿着制♥服♥的军人站在那里
I walk up and there stands this Army guy in a uniform
‎我心想 "天啊 他简直太帅了"
and I thought, "God dang, he is nice-looking."
‎我们交往了四年
We dated four years
‎直到1956年7月 我们结婚了
until July of '56 when we married.
‎所以我觉得 我的信可能有回报了
So, I felt like that my letter writing might have paid off.
‎（城市肉类市场 ‎烧烤 香肠 牛肉 猪肉 鸡肉 排骨）
‎要纯瘦肉 还是带肥肉的?
Want the lean or some fat?
‎在1966年
Back in 1966,
‎我丈夫在吉丁斯的城市肉类市场工作
my husband worked at the City Meat Market in Giddings,
‎他们人手不足
and they were shorthand.
‎怀特问我 是否愿意去帮助他
White, he asked me if I would come in and help him.
‎镀银餐具什么的 在右边的桌子上
Silverware and everything's on the table to your right.
‎我有三个孩子 是一名专职妈妈
I was a mother at home with three children.
‎根本不懂什么烧烤
I didn't know anything about barbecue,
‎但我愿意去尝试和学习
but, uh, I was willing to try and learn.
‎怀特和我一起工作以后
When White and I started working together,
‎我开始一点点地学习
I just kind of learned little bits and pieces.
‎把牛肉切成小块 放在案板上
Cutting up the beef and putting it on the counter.
‎我会给肉调味 然后帮他放进烤炉
I would season the meat and put it on the pit for him.
‎我会做各种不同的工作 ‎帮他减轻负担
Different things that I could do that helped him get through the day better.
‎我跟怀特合作亲密无间
White and I just worked as a team.
‎（吉丁斯水牛）
‎你今天怎么样呀?
How are you doing?
‎-你们今天怎么样呀? ‎-你好 杜丝
You? How are y'all? - Tootsie.
‎-你好吗? ‎-好久不见
How are you? - Long time no see.
‎-嗨 亲爱的 ‎-嗨!
Hi, sweetie. - Hidee, hidee!
‎-德伊勒 你最近还好吗? ‎-我很好
Deidra, doing okay? - I have been.
‎-好呢 ‎-很高兴见到你
Good. - Good to see you.
‎很高兴又见到你 不过希望能下点雨
Good seeing you. Wish we'd get a little rain.
‎天啊 太需要下雨了
God, we need it so bad.
‎是啊 早上好
Yeah. Good morning.
‎你好吗 杜丝?
How you doing, Tootsie?
‎有什么事吗 基基?
What you know, Kiki?
‎没什么 您要点什么?
Nothing much. What can we get for you?
‎-给我来点猪肉吧 ‎-猪肉吗?
Give me pork. - Pork?
‎你们这周都很忙吧?
Y'all been busy this week?
‎是啊 夫人 特别忙
Yes, ma'am, very.
‎我开始在肉类市场工作以后
Once I started working at the Meat Market,
‎我开始发现 我特别喜欢跟人交流
I began seeing how much I enjoyed being around people.
‎好啦
All righty.
‎好的 谢谢
Okay, thank you.
‎谢谢 夫人 祝您今天愉快
Thank you. Have a good one.
‎好的
All right.
‎我非常喜欢那份工作 ‎因此我说服怀特 应该把那里买♥♥下来
I enjoyed the work so well I convinced White that we should buy it.
‎我们周六会做烧烤
We had barbecue on Saturday.
‎我们认识所有人 跟大家都是朋友
We'd know everyone, we were friends with everyone.
‎您今天怎么样?
How is you today?
‎我很好的
I is fine. Are you off?
‎在市场里 我们是非常亲密的大家庭
At the Market, we were a very close-knit family.
‎我的孩子们都是在市场里长大的
My children grew up in the Market.
‎最年轻的赫尔歇 会在烤炉旁帮我
And the youngest, Hershey, would help me at the pits.
‎跟社区和家人在一起
The togetherness with the community
‎亲密无间...
and family,
‎那已经不只是生意了
it was more than just business.
‎克莱 这扇门坏掉多久了?
Clay, how long has this door been dragging?
‎几个月了
Couple months.
‎这些杆子都已经插♥进♥去了
Them rods are all the way in now.
‎德州烤肉 最经典的还是牛胸肉
Texas barbecue, it really all comes down to brisket.
‎烧烤牛胸肉 ‎是大块的牛肉烹煮12、14或16小时
Barbecue brisket is big hunks of beef cooked for 12, 14, 16 hours.
‎我不知道为什么 斯♥诺♥家的牛胸肉
I don't know why a Snow's brisket
‎那么好吃 那么与众不同
tastes so good and so different.
‎只要品尝一口 ‎你就会想 "天啊 怎么会这样? "
You take a bite of it, it's like, "God, how did that happen?"
‎也许在锡纸里面发生过魔法
Maybe some magic that happens within that aluminum foil.
‎我不知道
I don't know.
‎在斯♥诺♥ 我们没有秘密
At Snow's, we have no secrets.
‎我是说 腌料就是盐和胡椒
I mean, our seasoning is salt and pepper.
‎我没法告诉你 烤炉温度是多少 ‎因为我是用手去感觉的
I can't tell you how hot my pits are because I feel 'em with my hands.
‎我没有温度计
I don't have a gauge.
‎如果加一个温度计 我会学着去读数
I guess if I'd put a gauge on, I'd learn to read it
‎而不是去用手 但是...
and not my hand, but...
‎我就是那么做的
uh, it's just something I do.
‎我想这是一种本能
I guess it's an instinct.
‎德州烧烤...
In Texas barbecue,
‎烧烤大♥师♥愿意告诉你 ‎他们是怎么做的
pitmasters are willing to tell everything they do to it,
‎然后他们会坐在那里说 ‎"祝你好运咯"
and then they'll sit back and be like, "Well, good luck."
‎并不是使用秘密配方去腌制
It isn't about concocting some rub that is your secret ingredient.
‎秘密就是烧烤大♥师♥本身
The secret is the pitmaster.
‎随着时间推移 ‎怀特和我肩并肩在肉类市场工作
As time went along, White and I just worked side by side at the Meat Market.
‎我们经营了20年
We operated it for 20 years.
‎有一天 ‎怀特和我去医院做颈动脉造影
One day, White and I were in the hospital having a carotid artery dye work done.
‎他们把他带回病房♥ ‎我看着他 感觉不太对劲
And, um, when they brought him back to the room, uh, uh, to look at him, he didn't look right.
‎我跟护士说 "他有点不对劲"
And I told the nurse, I said, "He doesn't look right."
‎她说 "没事的 他是麻醉刚醒"
She says, "He's fine. He's just coming out from the anesthesia."
‎我和他在房♥间里坐了两个小时
Well, I sat with him in the room two hours
‎突然间 他变得一瘸一拐的
when, all of a sudden, he just went limp.
‎所以我按下呼叫器 ‎我说 "我需要帮助"
So I pushed a buzzer and I said, "I need help in here."
‎进来了两名医生和三名护士
There were two doctors and three nurses walked in.
‎然后他们说 "他中风了"
And when they said, "He has had a stroke,"
‎我是说 我不清楚当时的状况
I mean, I--I just--I couldn't see going on.
‎我快吓死了
I was scared to death.
‎中风影响了怀特的精神状况
White's mental condition had been affected by the stroke.
‎他半身不遂了
He was completely lame on one side.
‎不能自己站起来 也不能自己站立
Couldn't stand on his own or get up on his own.
‎他很无助
He was helpless.
‎部分失明
Partially blind.
‎我该怎么办呢?
Now what do I do?
‎医生告诉我 ‎"他一周要接受三次治疗"
The doctor told me, "You know, he's gonna need therapy three times a week."
‎我们要如何处理肉类市场呢?
What are we gonna do with the Market?
‎不能自己行走
Not being able to move around
‎需要24小时护理 每周三次治疗
and needing 24-hour care and therapy three times a week,