主厨的餐桌：烧烤（2020）

In Mexico, we have 5,000 different kinds of corn.
‎特别是在雅舒纳
Specifically in Yaxunah,
‎这里有很多当地特有的品种
there are many endemic varieties.
‎但很不幸 他们现在处境艰难
Sadly, they are struggling.
‎全球化正在改变一切
Globalization is changing everything.
‎每个墨西哥人都认为 ‎因为他们吃玉米薄饼
Every Mexican thinks, because he's eating a tortilla,
‎所以他们吃的就是真的玉米
he's eating the real corn.
‎这是假话
But it's a lie.
‎多数餐厅直接购进玉米面 ‎都是大规模生产的
Most of the restaurants in Mexico, they buy the masa, and, of course, with mass production.
‎往往会在里面加入小麦粉 ‎还添加防腐剂
Most of the time, they mix it with wheat and they put preservatives.
‎来到雅舒纳 你会看到
When you get to Yaxunah, you see the effort
‎当地人如何努力保持玉米面食的 ‎原始风味
people are putting into making sure that the corn will stay the same.
‎在墨西哥 多数厨师认为
Most chefs in Mexico
‎古老的传统厨艺不重要
don't see traditional ancient cooking important,
‎对土著人也有歧视
and there is discrimination of indigenous people.
‎但是 没有玉米就没有国家
But without corn, there is no country.
‎如果我们把这个丢了
If we lose this,
‎我们就丢掉了我们的民族身份
we lose our identity.
‎站起来扇 那样更快
Stand and fan, so that it's quick.
‎-你听见了吗? ‎-它不着
Did you hear me? - It's not lighting up.
‎会着的 站起来扇
It's going to light up. Stand and fan.
‎站起来了
I'm standing.
‎这就对了 看 着起来了
That's it. See how it's lighting up?
‎现在放什么?
What do I put now?
‎去打水 洗烤盘
Go get water and wash the comal.
‎-我该去打水吗? ‎-对
Do I go get water? - Yes.
‎我17岁时
When I was 17,
‎嫁给了厄奈斯托
I married Ernesto.
‎他是个建筑工人
He worked as a construction worker.
‎所以我们家境很不错
That's how we were able to get ahead.
‎我们有四个小孩
We had four children.
‎我希望我的孩子 ‎学会我所会的全部技能
I want my children to learn how to do all the things I know how to do.
‎但这挺难
But that's a little hard.
‎我每天给家里做饭
I spend the time cooking for my family.
‎还要干农活
Also farming and all that.
‎厄奈斯托处处帮助我
Ernesto helps me with everything.
‎但现在情况不同了
But things aren't the same anymore.
‎我的孩子们没时间
My children don't have the time.
‎他们更多地是专心学习
They're more focused on studying.
‎耶尼 你在学校都吃什么?
Jeni, what did you eat at school?
‎那位女士卖♥♥的三明治
One of those sandwiches sold by the lady.
‎今天她只有三明治
That's all she had today.
‎-作业都写完了吗? ‎-写完了
Did you finish all of your homework? - Yes.
‎我希望我的孩子过上更好的生活
I want my children to have a better life.
‎我很担心 ‎因为这些孩子不了解玛雅传统
I'm worried because these kids don't know about Maya tradition.
‎我很害怕 我总说：‎"哪一天我不在了...
And I'm afraid. I always say, "The day I'm not here...
‎这些传统也就丢了"
this will be abandoned."
‎再倒点
Pour more.
‎不掉?
Is it not falling?
‎嗯 不往下掉
No, it's not falling.
‎一天 两个厨师来我家
One day, two chefs came to my house.
‎里卡多和罗伯托
Ricardo and Roberto.
‎我当时游历尤卡坦 ‎想找些新的食材回去用
I was going through the Yucatán, finding new ingredients for my restaurant.
‎有人告诉我 应该来看看这些人
Somebody told me to see this group of people.
‎当时 里卡多穆尼奥斯也在
At the time, Chef Ricardo Muñoz was here.
‎他在调查墨西哥饮食文化
He's an investigator of Mexican food.
‎我说："里卡多 我们一起去吧"
I said, "Ricardo, let's go to this town."
‎我们就去了
When we got there,
‎当地有一种烤野猪的做法
there was a type of wild boar
‎至少有一千年了
that was at least a thousand years old.
‎我问他们：
I asked them
‎"我们怎么做? " ‎因为我不知道他们怎么吃
how we should cook it because I didn't know how they ate it.
‎罗萨莉亚说："我们做烤肉吧"
Rosalía says, "Let's make a cochinita."
‎我说："好吧 我们做烤肉"
I was like, "Okay, let's make a cochinita."
‎我开始做辣酱
I started making the spice sauce.
‎心里不住地想："会好吃吗?
And I kept thinking: "Is it going to be tasty?
‎我看他们不会喜欢"
I don't think they'll like it."
‎我尝了一口
When I took a bite,
‎那真是...
it was...
‎我这辈子最美妙的时刻
one of my greatest moments in my life.
‎我对她说："你的菜堪比钻石"
I told them, "What you have here is a diamond."
‎他们看着我 好像我疯了
They looked at me like if I were crazy.
‎我说："这堪称国菜啊"
And I said, "This is a national dish."
‎在墨西哥 甚至全世界 ‎已经没有人这么做了
Nobody in Mexico or in the world is still doing it like this.
‎我问他们：
I asked them,
‎"你们下周能不能和我去塔巴斯科 ‎在巧克力节上展示一下厨艺? "
"Can you cook with me next week in Tabasco at the Chocolate Fair?"
‎我说：
I said...
‎"我从没离开过我的小镇 从没有
"I've never left my town before. Never.
‎我不能去"
I can't go."
‎但我家人坚持
But my family insisted.
‎他们想让我去
They wanted me to go.
‎接我的车来到雅舒纳
Transportation came to Yaxunah.
‎我们去哪儿? 谁和我一起去?
Where were we going? Who was coming with me?
‎这是我第一次出远门
It was the first time I ever traveled.
‎好漫长的旅程
It was such a long trip.
‎我紧张极了
I was so nervous.
‎（付费停车）
‎这座城市比我那小镇大多了
The city was so much bigger than my little town.
‎我见到了很多不一样的东西
I saw many different things.
‎有好多人 他们看着我
There were many people. They'd look at me.
‎看那玉米 看起来要被浪费了
Look at that corn. It seems like it's getting wasted.
‎真的
True.
‎他们卖♥♥的那些东西 我看了很吃惊
I was surprised by all the products they sold.
‎有大量食品 甚至还有冷冻食品
There was a lot of food, frozen food even.
‎找不到手工制♥作♥的玉米薄饼
You don't find any hand-made tortillas.
‎等我到了巧克力节现场 ‎不知人们会怎么想
I wondered what people would think when I arrived at the festival.
‎我只是个小地方来的妇女
I'm just a woman from a small town.
‎我觉得自己和他们好不一样
I felt so different from them.
‎巧克力节是一个重要的节庆活动 ‎为了弘扬墨西哥饮食文化
The Chocolate Fair is a very important festivity to honor Mexican cooking.
‎第一天就去了三千人
On the first day, there were 3,000 people.
‎我带着台上几位女士向观众演示
I took the ladies on the stage to do a demonstration
‎如何制♥作♥尤卡坦烤肉
of how to make the cochinita pibil.
‎他们给我来了个突然袭击
They took me by surprise.
‎事先没人告诉我 ‎还要当着那么多人讲话
I was never told I'd speak in front of so many.
‎我们站在台上
We were on stage.
‎但我的搭档没法讲话...
But my partners weren't able to speak.
‎他们不会西班牙语
They don't speak Spanish.
‎过了一会儿 我想
So later on, I thought...
‎"我要不做 谁来做? 我必须做
"If I don't do it myself, who will? I have to do it.
‎我必须做"
I have to do this."
‎我一点一点地讲解如何制♥作♥烤肉
Little by little, I explained how to make the cochinita.
‎气氛好热烈
It was such an intense moment.
‎人们发生了一种共鸣
There was this connection with the people.
‎事后人们排起了大队
After that, there were lines and lines and lines
‎都想买♥♥尤卡坦烤肉塔可
to buy the cochinita pibil tacos.
‎人们走过来 凑到跟前 他们问我：
People came by. They got closer. They'd ask me:
‎"你的裙子哪里来的?
"Where are your huipiles from?
‎你是哪里人? "
Where are you from?"
‎我好激动
I was so excited.
‎我没想到 ‎他们会对我们的故事如此感兴趣
I never thought they would be so interested in our stories.
‎我们结婚时 可不是这样 只有土地
When I got married, this wasn't like this. It was just soil.
‎对 那时这里只有土地
You're right, back then it was just soil.
‎婚礼、亡灵节
The weddings, the Janal Pixán,
‎各种节日庆典和艺术作品 ‎都渐渐成为历史
the celebrations and the imageries are all becoming things of the past.
‎-一切都在消失 ‎-一切 毫不夸张
Everything's disappearing. - Everything. Absolutely.
‎年轻人说
Young people say:
‎"我不喜欢说玛雅语 ‎我不好意思说玛雅语
"I don't like to speak in Mayan. I'm embarrassed when I speak it.
‎-我不想穿玛雅人的裙子" ‎-是的
I don't want to wear a huipil." - Yes.
‎祖先教给我们的东西 ‎我们必须保护好
We must keep what our ancestors taught us.
‎是的
Yes.
‎玛雅人相信 收获之后
The Maya believe that once you finish harvesting,