主厨的餐桌：烧烤（2020）

‎听祖辈说...
My grandparents used to tell us...
‎他们过去在这片古老的遗址地上
that they had this type of maize back in the ruins.
‎种植一种玉米
The ancient ones.
‎现在已经不复存在
It doesn't exist anymore.
‎走到那里
When you get there...
‎你会感受到一阵风
there's a wind you can feel.
‎柔柔的
Soft.
‎很冷
Very cold.
‎你还能感受到那些声音
And you can feel the sounds.
‎仿佛是一个精灵
It's almost as if it was a spirit.
‎那片土地是玛雅人最后的纽带
That land is the last connection to the Maya.
‎在墨西哥 ‎很多人不相信玛雅人的生活
Many people in Mexico do not believe that Maya life
‎是重要的
is important.
‎如果我们不拯救我们的玛雅传统
If we don't rescue our Maya tradition,
‎那么 我们的全部信仰都会消亡
all our beliefs will be lost.
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‎（墨西哥雅舒纳）
‎古玛雅帝国有着璀璨的文化 ‎积累了丰富的知识
The ancient Maya empire was a strong culture with a lot of knowledge.
‎他们保存着对历史的详细记录
They used to have very detailed history books.
‎但是 西班牙人来到之后
But when the Spaniards came,
‎大批历史书籍被焚毁
they burned thousands of them.
‎于是 他们只能依靠口头传播 ‎保存历史信息
They had to pass all information by mouth.
‎不过 有些东西还是保存到了今天
Nevertheless, there are things that still survive,
‎比如语言和烹饪
like the language and cooking.
‎雅舒纳是尤卡坦半岛中部的一座小城
Yaxunah is a small town in the central part of the Yucatán Peninsula
‎这里的土著玛雅人仍然掌握着 ‎一千年前玛雅人的烹饪技艺
where indigenous Maya are still cooking like the Maya did a thousand years ago.
‎就是在墨西哥的这个地方 ‎他们发明了
In this particular part of the country, they developed
‎皮布 意思就是地炉
the pib, which means the underground oven.
‎这里是室外烧烤的发祥地
This is where barbecue started.
‎（雅舒纳）
‎第一次接触到雅舒纳美食
When I came across the food in Yaxunah...
‎我很吃惊
...I was really surprised.
‎镇上很多人都是优秀的厨师
Many of the people in town are very good cooks.
‎但我反复造访的一位 还是罗萨莉亚
But the one I keep going back to is Rosalía.
‎罗萨莉亚做得一手好尤卡坦烤肉...
Rosalía makes a cochinita pibil...
‎几乎和古代玛雅人做的完全一样
almost identical to what the Maya did in the ancient times.
‎在地炉里烤猪肉
When you cook the pork in the earth,
‎带着一股来自土地的烟火气息
you get a dish where you feel the smokiness of the ground.
‎这是连接我们传统饮食文化的纽带
It's a connection with how we used to eat.
‎正是这种传承的纽带让它独具特色
And that connection is what makes it special.
‎任何人只要愿意体验 ‎罗萨莉亚都愿意接待
Rosalía will receive anyone that is willing to experience this.
‎人们必须清楚
People have to be very clear.
‎这不是餐厅
This is not a restaurant.
‎你是在罗萨莉亚的家
You are coming to Rosalía's house.
‎别期待洁净的桌布和银亮的餐具
Don't expect a tablecloth and silverware.
‎你来是为了有机会
You come for the opportunity
‎品尝一种非常古老的美食
to be tasting something that is very old and very delicious.
‎如果你足够虔诚 能理解这一点
If you are gracious enough to appreciate that,
‎那么这将是一次让你终生难忘的体验
it's something that you're not gonna forget in your life.
‎走 拐弯 拐弯 就这样 对
Go ahead, turn, turn, like that, yes.
‎我的绣花手艺
I learned to sew huipiles with flowers
‎是我妈妈教给我的 ‎她是由她妈妈教会的
because my mother taught me, and her mother taught her.
‎我很高兴我掌握了这门技艺...
I'm very happy to have this knowledge...
‎从我还是个孩子时就会
that I have had since I was a kid.
‎我觉得这很重要
I feel like this is important.
‎这是我们作为玛雅女人的身份象征
It's what identifies us as Maya women.
‎我们的传统饮食文化也是一样
And our traditional food is the same.
‎我们制♥作♥的餐食能体现出我们是谁
The food we prepare represents who we are.
‎我是个传统的玛雅厨师
I'm a traditional Maya cook.
‎我还是小姑娘的时候
When I was a girl,
‎经常和祖辈一起去玉米地
I used to come with my grandparents to the cornfields.
‎收割之后
After the harvest,
‎我们就回祖辈的家 去做玉米薄饼
we'd come back to my grandparents' home to cook tortillas.
‎孩子 别做太大
Don't make it too big, girl.
‎这个也太大
Also, it's very big.
‎她会给我一点面团
She'd give me some dough.
‎说："如果做出来不对 就再做一次"
She'd say, "If it didn't come out right, do it again."
‎我就看着她做
I'd watch her work.
‎我就是这么一点一点学会的
That's how I learned, little by little.
‎我七岁时
When I was seven...
‎学会了...
I learned how to
‎手工制♥作♥薄饼
make tortillas by hand.
‎我们来自玛雅社区
Being from a Maya community,
‎我们吃的一切东西都来自土地
everything we consume comes from the earth.
‎我的祖辈相信
My grandparents believed
‎只吃我们自己种出来的东西 ‎这样更健康
that it was healthier for the family to only eat what we grew ourselves.
‎这种生活方式
This way of life...
‎让我感到自豪
made me feel very proud.
‎每当大家聚会的时候
Whenever there's a party,
‎我们就做尤卡坦烤肉
we cook cochinita pibil.
‎玛雅人制♥作♥尤卡坦烤肉
When the Maya cook the cochinita pibil,
‎是一种很有宗教意味的古老仪式
it is a very religious, ancient moment.
‎这是一种仪式
This is a ceremony.
‎他们邀请邻居和亲戚来一起做
They invite the neighbors and the family to cook.
‎大家都穿上传统的服装
Everybody dresses how they used to do it years ago.
‎女人准备肉
The ladies prepare the meat.
‎男人挖地炉
And the guys make a pib.
‎他们放入石块和大块木柴
They put stones and big chunks of wood...
‎点着火 直到把石头烧得滚烫
and they fire until the stones get really hot.
‎他们从公元400年开始 就这么做
They started to do it in the year 400.
‎这是最古老的室外烧烤
It's the oldest of all of the barbecues.
‎一旦准备好 可以烤了 ‎我们就把猪肉切开
We cut up the pork as soon as we're ready to cook,
‎我们采集各种食材
and we harvest the ingredients.
‎不需要称量
I don't need to measure.
‎都在我心里呢
It's all in my head.
‎我制♥作♥辣酱
I prepare the spice paste.
‎是用新鲜胭脂树种子做的
It's made with fresh achiote.
‎我还加一点橙汁
I add a little bit of orange juice.
‎然后把肉腌起来
And then I marinate the meat.
‎盖上香蕉叶
I add the plantain leaves.
‎然后就可以埋下去了
It's about to be buried.
‎他们把锅埋入土地的那一瞬间
The moment they put the pot under the ground,
‎意味着你把取自大地的东西归还大地
that means you are giving back to the earth what you took from the earth.
‎他们会这样埋一夜
They leave it overnight.
‎第二天清早 他们把锅挖出来
First thing in the morning, when they take it out,
‎烤肉鲜嫩多汁 触手即碎
the meat, it's so tender, falling apart with all these juices.
‎卷进一张香喷喷的薄饼
You put it in a nice tortilla.
‎墨西哥有两千多种塔可
In Mexico, there are more than 2,000 different kinds of tacos,
‎但有一种与众不同
but there is one that stands alone,
‎那就是尤卡坦烤肉塔可
and that is cochinita pibil.
‎（尤卡坦烤肉）
‎我从小在镇上长大...
Growing up in my town...
‎生活很孤寂
was very lonely.
‎所有的路都是土路
All the roads are dirt roads.
‎没有公交车 没有自行车
There are no buses, no bicycles.
‎也没有电♥话♥ 什么都没有
There were no phones either. Nothing.
‎但后来 雅舒纳通了互联网
But then, the internet arrived in Yaxunah.
‎道路也都铺过了
And the roads were paved.
‎很多家庭离开了小镇
Many families left the town.
‎很多人认为玛雅文化不重要
And many people thought that Maya culture wasn't important.
‎人们都不想继承
No one was interested in
‎我们祖辈教给我们的东西
following everything our grandparents taught us.
‎我父亲教我说西班牙语
My father taught me how to speak Spanish.
‎他告诉我："如果你只会说玛雅语
He'd tell me, "If you only speak Mayan,
‎就没法在城里找到像样的工作"
you won't be able to get a decent job in the city."
‎但我不想过现代化的生活
But I'm not interested in having a modern life.
‎我不希望我的生活变样
I didn't want my life to change.
‎玉米是墨西哥玛雅饮食文化的基础
Corn is the base of the entire Mexican Maya cooking.
‎没有玉米 就没有玛雅城市 ‎和玛雅文化
Without the corn, we wouldn't be able to build the Maya cities and this culture.
‎玛雅人的圣经《波波尔乌》说
According to the Popol-Vuh, the Bible of the Maya,
‎我们是玉米的子孙
we are sons of the corn.
‎在墨西哥 我们有五千种不同的玉米