主厨的餐桌：烧烤（2020）

It's already a great steak cooked it in a pan,
‎但放在木头生的火上烤
but cooking it over a wood fire
‎才对得起它的品质
is what it deserves.
‎它就应该被这样烤熟
It's what it should be.
‎可以烤出漂亮的脆皮 ‎内部是宝石般的红色
You get this beautiful crust with this jewel-like red interior.
‎我每天都在餐厅里做牛排
I cook steak every single day at the restaurant
‎还是会为此兴奋到战栗
and I still get chills down my spine.
‎这样的牛排
This will be like
‎你在世界上其他任何地方都吃不到
no steak you've ever eaten anywhere in the world.
‎你尝到的不是焦糊味
You're not tasting char.
‎你能吃到食材本身的味道
You're tasting the ingredient.
‎这道牛排只用到了肉
There's nothing else going on here except meat,
‎盐
salt,
‎和技术
and skill.
‎这块肉非常了不起 会改变你的人生
This is extraordinary meat. It will change your life.
‎（干式熟成203天牛肋条）
‎我在英格兰东南部长大
I grew up in the Southeast of England.
‎那里非常美丽
It's a beautiful part of the world.
‎我们住在一栋老房♥子里 ‎所以每间屋子都有壁炉
We lived in a very old house, so we had fireplaces in every room.
‎我可能从小就跟别人不一样
Growing up, I was a bit unusual, I suppose.
‎有一点奇怪
A little bit of an oddball.
‎我到哪儿都不是很合群
I didn't really fit in anywhere.
‎我的学业并不是很优秀
I wasn't at the high end of academia,
‎我也不太喜欢体育
and I wasn't hugely into sports.
‎我大概在追求那个时候没有的东西
I was looking for more than I was being offered, I suppose.
‎在我15岁的时候
When I was 15,
‎我开始跟着父母在一家乡村旅馆工作
I started working in a Country House Hotel near my parents.
‎很传统的英式法式餐厅
Very traditional French/English restaurant.
‎米其林一星
Had a Michelin Star.
‎那是我进入的第一个厨房♥
My first kitchen I've ever been in.
‎我被它深深吸引了
I was fascinated by it.
‎食材会从后门被运进来...
The ingredients would come in the back door,
‎被做成很棒的东西 从前门被运出去
and then go out the front door, transformed into something amazing.
‎我一头扎进那个厨房♥里
I immersed myself in that kitchen,
‎这改变了我的人生
and it changed my life.
‎我知道我天生就属于那里
I knew I was supposed to be there.
‎我找到了归属感
I felt part of something.
‎（斯迪克斯农场 ‎新南威尔士 下波特兰）
‎现在种的是什么东西?
What have you got growing?
‎现在是很多欧芹
A lot of parsley.
‎那边是胡萝卜和大葱
Carrots and leeks over there,
‎还有西红柿
and tomatoes.
‎啊 这里有黄金甜菜
Ah, you got some golden beets there.
‎太美了
It's beautiful.
‎人们去烧烤餐厅
People go to a grill restaurant,
‎会期待那里是肉食圣殿
and they're just expecting a large temple of meat.
‎我想让他们有不同的体验
I wanna give them something different.
‎对 你会注意到甜味
Yeah, you'll notice the sweetness.
‎这种甜菜很好
It's a good beet.
‎-很适合烤制 ‎-对
It will go well on a grill. - Yeah.
‎你还种了什么?
What else you got?
‎这是番茄 是俄♥罗♥斯♥黑番茄
These are tomatoes. These are the black Russians.
‎这些番茄成熟后会是这个颜色 ‎里面是绿色的
So, these will be that color when they're ripe and green in the center.
‎多年来 蔬菜都被当作
For years, vegetables have been very much treated
‎陪衬和配菜
as accompaniments and sides.
‎我的天
Oh, my God.
‎这是我本季品尝的第一只番茄
First of the season I've tasted.
‎太棒了
That's beautiful.
‎我从小就吃蒸蔬菜
I grew up having steamed vegetables.
‎怪不得小朋友都那么不爱吃蔬菜
No wonder it's difficult to get kids to eat vegetables,
‎因为它们吃起来味道差不多
because it all tastes the same.
‎噢 这个太香了
That smells incredible.
‎但我可以像处理肉一样处理蔬菜...
To be able to treat this vegetable as a piece of meat...
‎能将蔬菜做出不同的风味
suddenly takes it to somewhere else.
‎你可以把蔬菜扔到火里
You can throw a vegetable into the fire.
‎你可以让它在余烬上慢烤
You can bake it slowly in the embers,
‎它们在被精细烹饪的过程中
and they will take in a lot of the heat and a lot of the flavor
‎会吸收很多热量和风味
whilst cooking very delicately as well.
‎连沙拉都在火里走过一遭
Even the salad is touched by fire.
‎我们会用超高温
We grill all these beautiful lettuces
‎炙烤这些美丽的生菜
over super intense heat.
‎甜生菜会变得更甜...
The sweet lettuces get sweeter,
‎苦菜会焦化
the bitter lettuces caramelize.
‎生菜就需要被这样处理
It's almost what that lettuce has been missing.
‎在火门餐厅
At Firedoor,
‎肉类非常美味
the meat's delicious,
‎但那不是最令我激动的东西
but it's not the thing that excites me the most,
‎因为难的是做好蔬菜
'cause the challenge is vegetables.
‎伦诺克斯用火提炼出大量风味 ‎我觉得这非常神奇
Lennox extracts major flavor using fire, and I find that really fascinating.
‎人们对沙拉不会有很高的期待
The expectation of a salad's pretty low.
‎沙拉能好吃到哪儿去?
Like, how good can a salad be?
‎但实际上 火烤过的沙拉 ‎美味到难以想象
But actually, how great can a salad be cooked over fire.
‎你选择亲自耕种 我觉得很棒
I'm glad you decided to go into farming.
‎是的 在厨房♥里待了太久 这样更好
I know. Many hours in the kitchen, this is better.
‎你厨子当得不赖 ‎但我觉得你更擅长种菜
You weren't a bad chef, but you're a better farmer.
‎希望如此
I hope so.
‎我从厨艺学校毕业后
Once I graduated from culinary school,
‎必须要证明自己
I had to prove myself.
‎我开始在英国一个 ‎很严肃的法式厨房♥里工作
I got a job working at a very serious French kitchen in the UK.
‎到了那个级别 ‎所有东西都是军事化精确管理
At that level, things are run with military precision.
‎你有时候会被吼
Sometimes you're being screamed at
‎或者被砸东西
or something thrown at you.
‎我刚过去的时候
When I started there,
‎负责装饰菜 负责肉类的那个人 ‎会把他的勺子放在炉子上
I was on the garnish. Guy on the meat used to put his spoon on the stove
‎然后烫我的手臂 让我动作更快
and burn my arm to get me to move faster.
‎虽然会受到一点虐待
But despite a bit of abuse,
‎但我那时候总想着要提升自己
I just always wanted to improve and be better than I was.
‎接受了法式餐厅的训练后
Having trained in French restaurants,
‎下一步就是去到法国工作了
the next step was to go and work in France.
‎我获得了一份 ‎在一家米其林三星餐厅的工作
I got a job working at a three Michelin Star restaurant.
‎那是烹饪界的巅峰
That's the best of gastronomy.
‎所以我的期待值非常高
So, my expectations were huge.
‎那家餐厅是一个机器 ‎由庞大的人力运转
The restaurant was a machine with this huge labor force.
‎会有六个人共同摆盘一道菜
There'd be six guys plating one dish.
‎那些食物会经过很多道工序处理
The food required so many levels of preparation,
‎从冰冻到脱水...
from freezing to dehydrating,
‎一个盘子上有14种味道
14 different flavors on a plate.
‎最终的成品看上去美极了
By the time it got to its end result, it looks amazing.
‎但当我尝过之后
But then I tried it.
‎我没有任何感觉
And it didn't do anything for me.
‎那么复杂的技术
All this focus was on this technique,
‎和对食材的处理 都并不引人注目
and the ingredients weren't in the limelight.
‎我觉得非常幻灭
I felt completely disillusioned.
‎我终于能在三星餐厅工作
I got to that level of working in a three star
‎以为自己能找到梦寐以求的东西...
and you think you're gonna find what you dreamed of...
‎但它并不在那里
and it wasn't there.
‎我那时候感到很绝望
I was left feeling pretty hopeless.
‎我现在该去哪儿?
Where do I go now?
‎我后来在西班牙的一家小酒馆里帮忙
I was helping out in a pinchos bar in Spain,
‎转变一下节奏
enjoying a change of pace.
‎一天晚上 酒吧里的几个人
One evening, a couple of guys at the bar,
‎提到一家烧烤餐厅
they mentioned this grill restaurant.
‎说了一些 我不知道是什么
Something about, I don't know what it was,
‎关于一个人
about... there's this guy.
‎他在山上
He's in the mountains.
‎他只做烧烤 把所有东西都拿来烤
All he does is grill, and just grills everything.
‎我必须去看看他们说的这个人
I had to go and see what it was about.
‎所以我问了他们那是什么地方...
So, I asked the guys what the name of the place was,
‎那就是新屋烧烤餐厅
which was Asador Etxebarri.
‎新屋烧烤餐厅
Etxebarri's not located
‎没有坐落在闹市区
centrally to anything.
‎它有些与世隔绝