and I was expecting to see some evidence of that Hellenistic culture
建筑上的,装饰中的
in the architecture, in the decoration,
可是找不到证据
but you can't find it.
这里的一切都是传统的埃及风味
Everything here is traditionally on-the-nose Egyptian,
我想这说明了托勒密王朝并没有那么强大
and I guess what it suggests is that the Ptolemies didn't feel so powerful
无法把他们的外国文化全部强加给埃及
that they could impose wholesale their foreign culture on Egypt.
相反,他们不得不去装饰,并大手大脚花钱
Instead, they had to embellish and lavish money and funds
为了建造像这样巨大的庙宇建筑群
to create enormous temple complexes just like this one,
实质上是为了取悦埃及祭司
essentially, to keep the Egyptian priests sweet.
到头来,埃及的祭司
In the end, it wasn't the Egyptian priests
不是托勒密王朝需要担心的事情
that the Ptolemies had to worry about
而是地中海的一个新超级大国:
but a new superpower in the Mediterranean--
罗马
Rome.
法老统治的埃及即将完成
The Egypt of the pharaohs was about to complete
它史诗般的3000年旅程
its epic 3,000-year journey.
它在亚历山大港终结
Its end came in Alexandria,
没有比这更戏剧性的了
and it couldn't have been more dramatic.
剧本留给了古代世界上最著名的女人…
The scenario pitted the ancient world's most famous woman--
克利欧佩特拉…
Cleopatra--
对抗屋大维,未来的奥古斯都
against Octavian, the future Augustus,
罗马的第一位皇帝
first emperor of Rome.
克利奥帕特拉的问题在于不管她的传奇如何
The trouble with Cleopatra is that despite her legend
她仍然是难以捉摸的
she remains elusive.
在流行文化中,她是一个迷人的诱惑性的女子
In popular culture, she appears as this ravishing temptress,
按理说,我们应该以埃及最著名的女王的美丽形象来结束这个系列
so by rights, we should be ending the series with a beautiful image of Egypt's most famous queen.
问题是她同时期的肖像保存下来的不多
The trouble is not many contemporary likenesses of her have survived,
在那些已有的当中
and of those that have,
最可信的是这个
one of the most reliable is this.
这是一枚硬币上的图案,如你所见
It's an image on a coin, and as you can see,
她并不漂亮
she was no beauty.
这并不是伊丽莎白·泰勒扮演的角色
This is not how Elizabeth Taylor appears playing the role.
她有个鹰钩鼻,很尖的下巴
She's got a hook nose, this very pointy chin.
她看起来真像童话故事里邪恶的继母
She looks really like a wicked stepmother in a fairytale.
传说是在被屋大维打败后
Legend has it after defeat by Octavian,
克利奥帕特拉在自己的陵墓中自杀
Cleopatra committed suicide in her mausoleum,
人们认为陵墓就在港口的波浪之下
which is thought to lie beneath the waves in the harbor.
我离开亚历山大去寻找我最后的宝藏
I leave Alexandria behind in the quest for my final treasure
前往一个叫丹德拉的小镇
and head to a town called Dendera,
克利奥帕特拉在那里建造了一座神庙,献给母亲女神哈索尔
where Cleopatra built a temple dedicated to the mother goddess Hathor.
它是古埃及最后一座伟大的庙宇
It's one of ancient Egypt's last great temples,
而且它非常特别
and it's very special.
室内是一场令人惊叹的、多彩的视觉盛宴
The interior is a stunning, multi-colored visual feast
这是我在埃及其他地方从未见过的
the like of which I've not seen anywhere else in Egypt.
一个非常生动的空间,有着明亮的蓝色
It's a very vivid space with bright blues,
一些红色,和仍然很明显的赭色
some of the reds and ochres still apparent.
最近刚打扫过
It's been recently cleaned.
你可以看到一边有一层黑色的污垢
You can see there's the dark film of filth on one side,
它留下了这种视觉奇观的印象
and it's left this impression of a visual spectacle...
那就是这座寺庙曾经的样子
of what this temple must have been like.
克利奥帕特拉出现在神庙后墙上的巨大浮雕上
Cleopatra appears in a massive relief on the back wall of the temple
以及她和尤利乌斯·凯撒所生的儿子… 凯撒里奥
with her son by Julius Caesar-- Caesarion.
从艺术角度来说,这没什么新鲜的
In artistic terms, it's nothing new.
我是来见另一个人
I'm here to meet someone else,
一个有重要角色要扮演的人物
a character who would have an important role to play
关乎基♥督♥教艺术的未来
in Christian art in the future.
我是来见魔鬼的祖先
I'm here to meet the forefather of the devil.
托勒密王朝的神庙设计创新之一就是...
One of the innovations of temple design under the Ptolemies was...
这座建筑
this building.
它被称为mammisi,也叫诞生之屋
It's known as the mammisi, or birth house,
它是一座较小的寺庙
and it's a smaller temple,
通常与大建筑成直角布置
usually placed at right angles to the big building,
它的庆祝仪式关联到…
and it celebrates rituals associated with...
荷鲁斯神的出生
the birth of the child god Horus...
以及他与母亲女神伊西斯或哈索尔的关系
and his relationship with the mother goddess Isis or Hathor,
可我对于诞生之屋最喜欢的部分却是这个家伙
but my favorite part of the birth house is this guy,
埃及最神秘的神之一
who's one of the most curious of Egyptian gods.
他是埃及宗教殿堂中我最喜欢的成员
He's my favorite member of the Egyptian religious pantheon.
他是个侏儒神,被称为贝斯
He's a dwarf god, he's known as Bes,
而且从你见到他开始
and once you've started to see him,
那像这样的位置,他似乎突然无处不在
then in sites like this he suddenly seems to appear everywhere.
看到了吗?他又在这里了
You see? Here he is again.
这是贝斯
This is Bes,
没错
and, yeah,
你可以看到他所有的经典的特质
you can see he's got all of his classic attributes here.
他简直丑得可笑,留着浓密的胡子
He's really ridiculously ugly, he's got this bushy beard,
很胖,很矮
he's fat, he's squat.
他经常站在那里,大舌头伸在外面
He's often standing there with his great tongue lolling out of his head.
经常能看到他的阴♥茎♥
You often see his penis,
不像埃及艺术中大多数的神
and unlike most of the gods in Egyptian art,
他是正面的,全部是正面的
he's face on, he's full frontal.
贝斯有一点不感到羞耻
There's something unashamed about Bes,
我喜欢他的原因是他有一股真正的
and the reason I like him is because he's got this real whiff...
无政♥府♥主义和恶作剧的味道
of anarchy and mischief.
他太丑了,以至于成了恶魔和中世纪石像鬼的原型
He's so ugly that he's a prototype for devils and medieval gargoyles,
但是在古埃及
but in ancient Egypt,
他实际上是某种保护神
he was actually a sort of protector god.
他站在民众的一边
He was on the side of the people.
在分娩时,他可以驱邪
He warded off evil spirits during childbirth.
他是与音乐和舞蹈有关的神
He was a god associated with music and dancing
还和性,饮酒,所有美好的事情有关
and sex and drinking, all of the good things,
我觉得他就像埃及艺术珍珠里的砂粒
and I think of him like the grit in the pearl of Egyptian art.
我回到英国和金斯顿莱西
I return to Britain and to Kingston Lacy,
19世纪冒险家威廉·班克斯的家乡
the home of a 19th century adventurer called William Banks,
我第一次体验古埃及的地方
where I had my first taste of ancient Egypt.
我去过班克斯探索过的许多地方
Now I've been to many of the places that Banks explored,
我对那个伟大文明的艺术有不同的看法
I feel very different about the art of that great civilization.
一位强大的美索不达米亚国王曾经说过
A powerful Mesopotamian king once said that
古埃及的黄金和泥土一样丰富
gold in ancient Egypt was as plentiful as dirt,
他是对的
and he was right.
在壮观的三千年里
During 3 spectacular millennia,
古埃及艺术达到了空前的奢华和辉煌
ancient Egyptian art reached unchartered summits of luxury and magnificence
规模巨大
and colossal scale,
但在旅行中,我发现了一些不那么光鲜、浮夸的东西
but during my travels, I've discovered something a little less shiny and bombastic,
比如强壮的侏儒神贝斯
like the vigorous dwarf god Bes,
怀孕妈妈们的朋友
friend alike to expectant mothers
大喝大闹的贪杯之人
and beer-swilling carousers,
或是工匠坟墓里那些平凡的天堂景象
or those homely visions of paradise in the workers' tombs,
谦卑的沙伯提俑
humble shabti figurines,
陶器碎片上装饰着令人愉快的速写图
scraps of pottery decorated with delightfully rapid sketches
对鸟的翅膀或狗的皮毛感到兴奋
that are thrilled about the texture of a bird's wing or the fur of a dog.
我曾经认为我有一定的了解
I used to think that I had something of a handle...
古埃及艺术究竟是怎样的
on what ancient Egyptian art was all about,
但现在我意识到...
but now I realize that...
需要好几辈子的时间才能真正理解它
to really understand it would take several lifetimes.
它可以是亲密的,也可以是令人生畏的
It could be intimate, as well as intimidating.
它既贴近现实,又神圣无比
It was down to earth as much as it was divine,
为何不可呢?
and why not?
因为古埃及人对此很狂热
Because the ancient Egyptians held fervent,
对来生有着深刻的信仰,所以当然
profound beliefs about the afterlife, so of course,
他们明白通往永恒的道路不止一条
they understood there could be more than one route to eternity.