攀登梅鲁峰（2015）

我刚听到“呯”的一声 接着就是齿轮哢哒的声音
I just heard the "ping" and then the fucking gear rattling.
还好，那是摔下来的最佳位置
Oh, it was a good- Of all the places to fall though-
简直是梦幻般的
Ah, it's dreamy.
那是摔下来的好位置
[Jimmy] That was a good place to fall.
雷南，你身上一定有5磅重的东西吧
It must have been, like, five pounds on you, huh, Renan, like-
是啊，我被三脚架挑起来了
[Renan] Yeah. Well, I got lifted off the triangle ledge.
操！
Oh! Fuck!
伙计
[Jimmy] Oh, man.
生存模式
[Renan] Survival mode.
断了
It's broke.
我们是喜马拉雅大岩壁攀登者 我们的帐子却坏了
We're Himalayan big-wall climbing, and we broke our portaledge.
这样更直一点了 - 是啊
That's more straight. - Yeah.
透气胶带
[Jimmy] Whew. - [Conrad] Athletic tape...
再来两个有孔螺钉 我们就又能回到正轨了
two eye screws, and- and we're back in business.
这个叫空间牵引
[Jimmy] That there is called space hauling.
这条路线相当陡峭
This route's pretty steep.
所以那些东西才会都被悬挂在空中
That's why all the shit's hanging off in space. [Chuckling]
我一定要拍下我们现在在吃的东西
[Chuckles] I just had to film what we're eating right now.
康拉德想让我们吃昨天的剩饭
Conrad wants us to eat yesterday's leftovers.
看起来还不错啊
Oh, it looks great.
我们的菜单上只有一种选择 那就是蒸粗麦粉
[Conrad] We have one choice on the menu, and it is couscous.
明天，我们晚饭吃什么？
[Jimmy] Tomorrow, what are we having for dinner?
蒸粗麦粉
Couscous.
那后天呢？ - 蒸粗麦粉
[Jimmy, Laughing] And the next day? - Couscous.
我四天前吃的是什么？
[Jimmy] What did we have for dinner four days ago?
蒸粗麦粉 - 好极了
Couscous. - [Jimmy] Sweet.
我觉得这看起来真的很好吃
[Conrad] This looks really good, I think.
我确定，我那两只狗，哈皮和勒罗伊 一定会喜欢的
I'm sure that, uh Happy and Leroy, my two dogs, would just love this.
他们会觉得，“耶！”
They'd be like, "Yeah!"
我们不是他的狗
We're not his dogs.
嗯
Mmm.
嗯，蒸粗麦粉
Mmm, couscous.
我正在看着雷南，他似乎很抗拒 而且慢了下来
[Jimmy] I was watching Renan, and he seemed confused and slow.
我觉得可能是因为高度的问题
I thought it might have been the altitude.
我不确定到底发生了什么事
I'm not sure what's going on.
看来真的有些不对劲
[Renan's Voice] Something was really wrong.
我转过了我的脸，哭了出来
I literally just turned my face away and cried.
当我们最终进入了吊账
[Jimmy] When we finally got the portaledge built and got inside...
雷南也在那一刻崩溃了
that's when Renan really fell apart.
他直接晕了过去
He just collapsed.
他有话想对我说
[Jimmy] He tried to say something to me...
而那完全是听不清的乱语
and it was just complete gibberish.
你知道，你能看到他眼中的惊慌
You know, you could see the alarm in his eyes that, like...
然而，他在很努力地想说话
however hard he was trying to speak...
但就是没说出来
it wasn't happening.
一年半以前，我爸爸中过一次风
It'd been a year and a half earlier that, uh, my father had suffered a stroke...
我见过那症状
and I'd seen what it does.
你知道，我们头脑中在计算 我们觉得...
You know, we're making calculations in our head, and we're like...
我们现在不能下去
Well, we can't go down right now.
我们会犯错的，这太浪费了
We'll make a mistake. We're way too wasted.
那是焦虑的一颗，迷茫的一刻
[Conrad] it was a moment of, uh, anxiety. It was moment of unknown.
那一刻接受了我们 要完成不了这路途的可能性
It was a moment of acceptance that we might not make it up the route.
接受了雷南的健康状况...
Acceptance that- of Renan's health...
他躺在那，我们什么也做不了
that where he was, there was nothing we could do about it.
第二天早上，太阳高照
[Renan] The next morning, the sun was shining.
我感觉好了一些
I felt a little bit better...
但我依然无法说话
but I still couldn't really talk.
我能想到的唯一的事 就是我不想下去
All that I could think about is, "I don't want to go down."
如果我们下去，那我永远不会原谅自己
If we go down, then I'll never forgive myself.
我依然强烈地感觉到，我必须 贡献队伍，不能让大家失望
I still just felt strongly that I had to contribute to the team and not let us down.
轮到我带领了
It was my turn to lead.
他们不想让我去，但我看着吉米
Those guys didn't want me to go, but I looked up at Jimmy...
点头，让他明白我要争取
nodded, and it was understood that I was going for it.
他们密切地监视着我
They were monitoring me very closely.
不知从哪，我开始感到一种势头
From somewhere, I started to feel this momentum...
攀登开始感到顺利
and climbing started to feel good.
我无法相信我完成了我的带领
I couldn't believe I finished my leads.
这对我来说是巨大的突破
It was this huge breakthrough for me.
康拉德和吉米依然很担心我
Jimmy and Conrad were still really worried about me...
他们扛了我大部分的负重
and they carried most of my weight.
梅鲁峰，每一次都很无情
Meru- it's relentless. Every time.
我们依然不知道那天究竟发生了什么
[Renan's Voice] We still don't know what happened that day.
我们在一起抽烟，聊着
We just smoked a cigarette together and talked about it...
决定继续下去
and decided to keep going.
经过了7天的攀登 我们就要进入最艰难的部分了
After seven days of climbing, we were just getting to the hard part.
崖壁变得超级陡峭，外悬
The wall got super steep and overhanging.
这是第20个点，吉米正在跟上
[Conrad] This is pitch 20. Jimmy's getting after it.
这里是“纸牌屋”，印度海崖的起点
It's the House of Cards, the start of the Indian Ocean Wall.
我知道他很害怕
[Renan] I knew he was scared.
我们都知道，在这里犯任何一个错 都将会是灾难性的
We all knew any mistake on this pitch could be catastrophic.
它看起来
[Jimmy] Wow, that's- it looks longer...
比昨晚更长啊
than it did last night. [Laughing]
在“纸牌屋峰”，他们之所以 给它起这个名字
In the House of Cards pitch, they called it that because...
是因为这些巨大的花岗岩
it's these immense blocks of granite.
如果你用力拉其中一块 那整个崖壁都会像
If you pull one of 'em too hard, this whole thing's gonna come down...
纸牌搭的屋子一般倒塌 只是每张“纸牌”都重达1万磅
like a house of cards, only each card weighs, you know, 10,000 pounds...
而且那些锋利的边缘 会从崖壁上被削落
and those sharp edges is gonna just floss 'em all off the wall.
看到这些巨大的石块了吗？
See these giant blocks?
他们在我的重量下移♥动♥
They are moving under my weight.
这些是你不会想听到的声音
Those are the sounds you don't like to hear.
这真的很紧张，他在那待了6个小时
[Renan] It was really intense. He was up there for six hours...
我们都已经很疲惫了
and it was exhausting for all of us.
他们正在有坡度的山上，但你击打它 就能看到它们都在动
They're on a sloping hill, and when you hit 'em, you watch both of 'em going.
是啊，这里的一切... - 那会砸碎一切的
Yeah, and everything here, I mean- - That would just chop everything.
然后我们就完了
And then we'd- we'd be fucked.
好吧，这是我们的登顶之夜
[Fabric Flapping] - Well, it's our summit-bid evening.
山峰正在倾斜
And it's dumping.
越来越痛苦了 - 它已经倾斜了...
[Conrad] More suffering. - [Jimmy] It's been dumping...
大概... - 从三点半开始的
for... - since 3:30.
现在已经5,6个小时了
Five, six hours now.
那边情况如何，雷南？
[Jimmy] How's it lookin' out there, Renan?
那个，除了
Well, despite the, uh...
过去的4小时
heavy winds and getting battered...
一直在肆虐的狂风
in the ledge for the last four hours...
天上还有星星
there's stars...
所以咱们要争取
so we're goin' for it.
现在可能已经超过2万英尺了
It's probably negative 20 out.
我的脚已经没知觉了
I can't feel my feet.
但至少还有风
But at least it's windy.
静待阳光
Just waitin' for the sun.
伙计，我脑子都不清醒了
Oh, man, I can't fucking think straight.
好样的，康拉德！
[Renan] Good job, Conrad!
在登顶阶段，我觉得我们所有人
[Jimmy] On the summit push, I think all of us...
尤其是康拉德，都在害怕上面的山峰
and probably Conrad the most, was dreading the upper pitches.
因为他知道他是唯一一个能应对的人
Because he knew he was the only one that could do 'em.
那真的是艰难又危险的带领
And it was a really hard and dangerous lead.
康拉德那天压力很大
[Renan] Conrad carried a lot of pressure that day.
真的很难向任何人解释 他在那上面干什么
It's really hard to explain to anyone what he did up there.
我们最终抵达了我们在2008年 返回的山脊
[Jimmy] We finally get to the summit ridge, where we turned around in 2008.
而且我们都没谈，最后的带领要由谁来
And we hadn't really talked about who was gonna take the last lead.
那是最后的，未知的区域
And that was the final, unknown section.
康拉德看着我，他说，好吧
Conrad looked at me, and he was like, "All right."
我说，吉米，你来带领吧
[Conrad] I was like, "Jimmy, this is your lead.
轮到你来统领了
It's your turn to take the reigns."
好样的，吉米
[Conrad] Nice, Jimmy.
是啊，雷南 - 操，耶！
Yeah, Renan. - Fuck, yeah.
耶
Yeah.
耶，马格斯!
Yeah, Mugs!
我为你做到了！
Got it for ya!
10年在一起攀登
Ten years of climbing together.