攀登梅鲁峰（2015）

喔，干得好
[Jimmy] Whoo! Nice work!
这东西有点像上面挂了个帐篷的吊床
[Jimmy's Voice] Which is basically a hanging cot with a tent over it.
天啊 - 好了
Holy Jesus. - Okay, good.
噢
Ooh.
然后我们开始听到一侧山峰发生雪崩
[Jimmy's Voice] Then we start hearing the avalanches coming off on the side...
雪从你身边滚滚而下
ripping out next to you.
喔
[Renan] Whoa.
看，外面下雪了
[Jimmy] Look, it's snowing outside.
住在悬挂帐篷里，外面还下雪
[Conrad] Living in a portaledge, and it's snowing.
我感觉有点像圣诞节了
I kind of feel like Christmas somehow. - [Jimmy Chuckles]
我们一直都想要这样的圣诞节 身边就是暴风雪
[Conrad] This is what we want for Christmas- a snowstorm and...
然后坐在... - 坐在鲨鱼鳍上？
to sit here in the- - [Jimmy] On the Shark's Fin?
对 - 还全身湿透，太棒了
[Conrad] Yeah. - [Jimmy] All soaking wet. Awesome.
所以我们在那住了1天，2天
[Jimmy] And so, we're there for a day. Then we're there for two days.
接着又住了第三天
Then we're there for three days.
我们在悬挂帐篷里被困了4天
And basically, we're stuck on the portaledge for four days.
那是我见过的最大的暴风雪之一
[Renan] It was... one of the biggest storms I'd ever seen.
我们在暴雪里被困了4天
It was four days in the storm...
但总共只有7天的食物
and we had only seven days of food total.
所以最后我们消耗了大量食物
So, we ended up, you know, depleting a lot of our food supply.
食物已经消耗过半了
We had essentially lost half our food.
但还有90%的攀登没完成
And 90% of the mountain was still above us.
这就是轮回，痛苦的睡袋
It's Samsara- the bivy of suffering.
我心想，好吧，结束了
[Renan's Voice] I thought, "Okay, it's over.
我们尽力了
We've had a good run at it."
好冷啊，前几天照着我们的太阳哪去了
Cold. Where's the sun we had the last couple days?
我们都要冻死了
We're up here freezing.
这对我来说太难接受
[Renan's Voice] This is too much for me.
我已经想尽办法了 而且很高兴能有这段经历
I'm in over my head. And I'm glad to have the experience...
但我也很高兴明天我们就要下山
but I'm also glad that we're going down tomorrow.
风暴终于过去了
[Jimmy] The storm clears finally.
你知道，在我心里，我想好吧
And you know, in my head, I'm like, "Okay, you know...
现在该走了，风暴结束了
now it's time to move. Storm's over."
所以当我们那天开始穿戴装具 准备攀登的时候
So when we started gearing up that day and getting ready to climb...
雷南真的有点搞不清楚 该走哪个方向
you know, there was some confusion, I think, for Renan, that we were going-
因为我们是要往上而不是往下
uh, you know, that we were going up as opposed to down.
好吧
[Renan, indistinct] - Okay.
他们开始穿戴准备继续攀登
[Renan] They just started racking up to continue up the mountain.
我不知道为什么 也不知道他们是怎么想的
I didn't know why or how- what they were thinking.
特别是康拉德
And especially Conrad.
我从没见过他对攀登这么充满干劲
I'd never seen him so... motivated... about a climb.
攀登是非常危险的运动
[Conrad] Climbing's a really dangerous sport.
一个好的搭档会让你发挥出极限
And a good partner will push you to the summit...
但同时也能让你注意到 可能遇到的风险
but at the same time, keep you aware of the risks that are involved with it.
正在挂悬挂帐篷
[Renan] Belaying out of the portaledge...
对同伴百分百信任是种很特别的感觉
[Conrad] That 100% trust in your partner is pretty special.
我觉得雷南很震惊
I think Renan was shocked...
因为他从没有过这样的体验
because he hadn't ever really had anything at that extent.
吉米和我是过来人
And Jimmy and I, we'd been through that.
我们正在克服难关 要明白其实没有那么糟糕
We're pushing on through it, and it's that understanding of "It's not that bad."
这时候你就需要一个导师
And that's where a mentor comes in.
攀登是一种奇怪的技术 它是一代一代传下去的
Climbing is this weird craft, you know, passed down from generation to generation.
要学习你就得有个导师
The way you learn is you have a mentor.
康拉德是在马格斯·斯坦普的 脚下学到的
Conrad learned at the feet of Mugs Stump.
康拉德是个年轻的优秀人才，而马格斯 是世界上最优秀的登山者之一
Conrad was this young phenom, and Mugs was one of the great climbers in the world.
马格斯非常优秀，他把我收入麾下
[Conrad] Mugs was great. He took me under his wing.
他就是师♥父♥而我则像只小蚱蜢
He was the sensei, and I was the grasshopper.
他推动我
He pushed me.
他将一枚璞玉雕凿成型
He had taken what was unshapen and given shape to it.
直到今天这依然是我生命中 非常重要的部分
Still, to this day, a very important part of my life.
康拉德找到了完美的导师
[Krakauer] So Conrad, he'd found the perfect mentor.
马格斯会把他带到自己的车里立起经幡
And Mugs would take him into his van and lift the prayer flag...
他有一个特别的目标 就是一座叫做梅鲁的山峰
and there's his special goal, which is this peak called Meru.
康拉德就像，“噢”
And Conrad was like, "Ooh."
马格斯尝试过两次 应该是在86和88年
And Mugs tried it twice- I think in '86 and '88.
两次都因为种种原因失败了
Failed both times, for all kinds of reasons.
但对马格斯来说这没有让他消沉 他是个志向远大的攀登者
But to Mugs, this didn't deter him. This was- He is the cosmic climber...
这只是他计划的一部分 他是一定会回去的
and this is all part of the cosmic plan, and he was gonna go back.
这一定也对康拉德 造成了很大的影响
And I'm sure Conrad- That made a huge impression on him.
所以之后在1992年，我第一次 见到康拉德2年后
So then, 1992, two years after I met Conrad...
马格斯在德纳里峰为非法攀登者 做向导时死了
uh, Mugs died on Denali, guiding a bootleg client.
我当时在盐湖城工作 正准备去攀登
[Conrad] I was working in Salt Lake and went climbing.
我们在开车返回的路上
And, uh, we were driving back.
我朋友道格说，嘿 马格斯好像死了
And my friend Doug said, "Hey, we think Mugs has died."
我很清楚的记得道格是在 洲际公路上说出那句话的
I remember exactly on the interstate where Doug had that conversation.
我反应就像“操”
I was like, "Oh, fuck!"
因为我一直觉得那种事不会发生
Because I always thought that shit like that's gonna happen.
不可能发生在马格斯身上 他是最优秀的
But it's not gonna happen to Mugs. He was the best.
有时候和你的导师一起攀登 是很危险的
[Renan] Climbing with your mentor is a dangerous thing sometimes...
因为你会把所有的信任 托付在他身上
because you give them all of your trust.
我给了他们一切
I gave them everything, and...
每天我的思想都在不断斗争
there was a constant battle in my mind every day.
我非常冷，控制不住的发抖
I'd be freezing, shivering uncontrollably...
但我绝对不想成为那个说
But I definitely didn't want to be the guy that said...
“噢，我好冷，我想下去”的人
Oh, I'm cold. I want to go down.
松了？
[Renan] Loose, eh?
太阳被遮挡住时气温肯定有零下20度
[Renan's Voice] It must have been negative 20 when the sun went around the corner.
在那种温度下尝试攀登是很费力的
It's debilitating trying to climb in those kind of temperatures.
关键就是在岩石缝隙之间攀登
[Renan] It's all about climbing the cracks.
我在这里找不到
I don't see any here. [Chuckles]
我们到达了这片平整无暇的岩石
[Renan's Voice] We'd hit these totally blank sections of rock.
我很肯定没有别的路可走
And I was sure there wasn't anywhere else to go.
但后来吉米或者康拉德 肯定会想办法出发
But then Jimmy or Conrad would launch into the void.
这么陡，这是现代A4E攀登工具
[Krakauer] You know, this is steep, modern A4 E-climbing.
它需要运用工具，你就像个手艺人
It's using tools. You're a craftsman...
拍打，敲凿，拧捏
tapping and pounding and tweaking.
他就像个细活木匠
And he's like this cabinetmaker...
将一块胡桃木雕凿成柜子
chiseling away at this cabinet out of walnut or something.
作为家具工，如果你 多凿那木头一次
Except, you know, if you hit that chisel one more time and you're a cabinetmaker...
可能就会敲碎它，毁掉整个作品
maybe you split it and you ruin this cabinet- bummer.
如果用A4凿子，你把那缝隙凿开了 你就死定了
If on an A4 pitch, you, like, split the cabinet, you die.
我就在这扎营
Yeah, I'll tent right there.
你要在这吗？你想在哪？
Uh, you wanna be here? Where you wanna be?
我无所谓，就在这个边缘吧 我先在这坐会
I don't care. I'm right on this edge. I'll sit here for now.
我这有热睡袋
I got some hot bevies.
你很难高估现在自己的状况
[Jimmy's Voice] It's hard to overstate what kind of condition we were in.
勉勉强强
Barely. [Sighs]
我们真的早上只能吃几勺麦片
We're literally down to eating a couple spoonfuls of granola in the morning...
白天就一起分几片意大利香肠
and sharing a couple slices of salami during the day...
再加上几片奶酪
with couple pieces of cheese.
我们现在的配给已经达到极限了
I mean, we're definitely on pretty limited rations at this point.
烧烤
[Conrad] Roasty. - [Renan Chuckles]
对于用一小罐丙烷烧火的登山者来说
For climbers over a stove on a half-empty jug of propane...
没什么比烧烤奶酪皮更好吃的了
there's nothing finer than roasting the rind.
会很好吃的
It becomes quite tasty.
就是吃你剩下的任何东西
[Jimmy] 'Cause basically eating everything that you have left.
超级效率
Super efficient.
下星期我们就只能吃自己的靴子了
Next week, we'll be eating our boots. [Chuckles]
康拉德经常聊如何让风险可控
[Krakauer] You know, Conrad talks a lot about how to keep the risk manageable.
聊危险也分可接受的危险 和不可接受的
Talks about there's acceptable risk and unacceptable risk.
但他总是游走在边缘 保持风险可以接受
But he always keeps it on the acceptable side by leaving this margin.
天啊
Om, shanti.
但，你知道，他以前尝试过 这条攀登路线
[Krakauer Continues] But... you know, he had tried this climb before...
但失败了，即使他自己不承认
failed, and even if he didn't admit it to himself...
但为了成功，他就必须把 聊天中的那一套扔在脑后
to succeed, he was gonna have to throw that conservative stuff out the window...
在这次行程中承担巨大的风险
and take mega-risk on this.
但你知道，如果他们想活下去
But, you know, if they want to stay alive...
就不能彻底胡来
they cannot fuck up at all.
他也提到过，如果失败了 会让家人非常失望
And he talked about, "If I die, I've really let down my family.
我不能犯任何错误
I cannot make any mistakes."