攀登梅鲁峰（2015）

我们都尽力了，我们挑战了极限
All of us gave it our best. We pushed our limits.
还有些事没有做完
Uh, there was something left undone.
但是...我着迷了
But... I was possessed.
我甚至没有失望，我想着...
I wasn't even down, and I was like...
好的，我是在季风前还是季风后去？
Okay, do I come back in pre-monsoon, post-monsoon?
我们什么时候去 我们这一次如何做到更好？
When are we gonna do it, and what do we gotta do better this time?
2008年之后，雷南和我 一起进行了很多次攀登
[Jimmy] After 2008, Renan and I ended up on a bunch of different shoots together.
我们走遍了世界 我们去了非洲的乍得
We went all over the world. We were in Chad, Africa.
去了婆罗洲
We were in Borneo.
我们一起做了大量的工作
We worked on a ton of jobs together.
我们知道有不少队伍在 我们之后尝试登上鱼翅峰
We knew that there were a number of teams who attempted the Shark's Fin after us.
然后一个名叫希尔沃·卡罗 的斯洛维尼亚的登山者
And then this great Slovenian climber named Silvo Karo...
联♥系♥康拉德询问有关路线的消息
called Conrad to ask for beta- ask for information on the route.
所以我们给了他全部的支持 我们不喜欢保密
And so we gave him our total support. We weren't being possessive of the climb.
我们不会，那不是... 那座山不是我们的
We weren't- it wasn't- We don't own that mountain.
我们就这样 ”给你，这就是我们的收获“
We were like, "Here it is. Here's what we learned."
完成鱼翅峰的故事
And, "Finish the story of the Shark's Fin."
因为我们没必要回去了 这事情已经结束了
Because then we don't have to go back. It's done.
我们当时认为希尔沃能行
[Jimmy] And we kind of assumed Silvo would get it.
然后我接到康拉德的电♥话♥
And then I got a call from Conrad, you know.
他只说了”他没成功“
And all he said was, "He didn't get it."
在那个时候，我们想的是 ”好的，转换一下，我们回去“
At that point we're like, "Okay." Gears turning. "We're going back."
人们都说最好的登山者 就是有着最坏回忆的人
[Chuckles] They say the best Alpinists are the ones with the worst memory.
在我们计划前往梅鲁峰
[Jimmy] About six months before we were supposed to head to Meru...
进行第二次尝试的前六个月
on our second attempt...
雷南和我当时在杰克森洞 拍摄一个商业项目
Renan and I were out shooting a commercial project in Jackson Hole.
这里不是很陡峭 顶点也许在这里
It's not too steep up here. The summit's probably right here.
我接到了杰瑞米·琼斯 和贾维尔·德勒鲁打来的电♥话♥
[Jimmy's Voice] I had gotten a call from Jeremy Jones and Xavier de Le Rue...
他们是世界上最杰出的滑雪手
two of the best big-mountain snowboarders in the world.
这里，这是陡峭的部分吗？
In here, is this the steepest part?
那是一个大事情 我要求雷南进行拍摄
[Jimmy's Voice] It was a big job, and I asked Renan to film on it...
尽管他不是很擅长滑雪
even though he wasn't a great skier.
这条线，在这下面是数不清的悬崖
This line, below this is, like, thousands of cliffs.
我很兴奋，这是我和杰瑞米以及贾维的第一次滑雪
I'm stoked. Those are the first turns I've ever made with Jeremy and Xav.
前景不错
Bodes well. - [Chuckles]
太棒了
That was awesome.
我们一起下山 然后我看到雷南滑到边缘
[Jimmy] We were headed down together when I saw Renan catch an edge.
突然失去了控制 然后消失在一段悬崖处
And he spun out of control and disappeared over a cliff.
噢，噢
Oh. Oh!
我下去找到他 当时他脑袋周围全是血
I got down to him, and there was blood all around his head.
我知道了
[Chattering] - [Man] I got it.
他的颅骨碎了 能够在他脑袋里看到
He'd smashed his skull, and you could see into his head.
我当时以为他会死在我怀里
I thought he was gonna die... in my arms.
我觉得我有责任
[Monitors Beeping] - I felt responsible.
他的颅骨开放性骨折
[Man] He has an open, depressed skull fracture with pneumocephali...
头骨里面有积水
which is air inside the skull.
他的C2区域泪珠状断裂 侧块骨折
And... he has a C2 teardrop fracture and lateral mass fracture...
C6区域神经突断裂
as well as a C6 spinous process fracture.
我们出去了，好吗？
We came out, okay?
他要被固定很长一段时间 他们要带他去手术
He's gonna be immobilized for a long time. They're gonna take him to surgery.
手术有什么重大风险吗？
Any sort of, like, significant risks during the surgery?
当然有
Absolutely.
于是他们说我们可以见他 他们把他推出来，他看起来
So they tell us we can see him and they roll him out, and he just looked-
我是说，我认出了他，但是
I- I mean, I recognized him, but-
我是说，他看起来如此的沮丧
I mean, he looked so beat down.
当我找到你的时候 你正面朝下倒在雪里
So when I found you, you were... face down... in a pile.
有一个这么大的三角形伤口
You essentially had, like, a triangle about that big-
我透过那能看到你的头骨
about that big where I could see your skull.
雷南当时头部着地 头盖骨严重断裂
[Jimmy's Voice] Renan had landed on his head and severely fractured his skull.
脖子处两根椎骨断裂
He broke two vertebrae in his neck.
一条椎动脉断裂
He severed one of his vertebral arteries.
导致一半的脑供血受阻
And basically cut off half the blood flow to his brain.
我问过，我说 ”这情况怎么样？“
I asked, I said, "Well, what are we talkin' about here?"
90%如此情况的人 将无法再次行走
They were like, "90% of people with any one of these injuries will never walk again."
他们说”他头部的伤势，你知道的
His head injury- They were saying, you know-
再偏离一毫米就成植物人了”
it was within a millimeter of him being a vegetable.
我们在这 - 我接到吉米的电♥话♥
Here we are- - [Conrad's Voice] I got a call from Jimmy.
他说发生了严重的意外
He said, "There's been a really severe accident."
然后我马上开车过去了
And I drove down right away.
我们当时说了一些
We had this moment where it was...
“你会好起来的，事情会好的” 之类的那些话
You're gonna be fine. Things are good.
我们会一起走
And we got up and we got the walker...
从东到西完成计划
and we walked from east to west on the linoleum floor.
恢复模式 - 是的
Recovery mode. - Yeah.
我们快点去一些地方 这样就能完成事情
Let's go somewhere quick, so we can get our job done.
是的
Yep.
九月份 - 没错
September. - Exactly.
当时他有回梅鲁峰的想法
[Conrad's Voice] At the time, he was like, "I want to go to Meru."
但是我不想说 “伙计，你这情况不允许”
But I didn't want to be like, "Dude, you're hooped. I mean, come on."
你不忍♥心告诉一些人 有些事是不可能的
You don't have the heart to tell someone something's impossible.
在那个时候你不忍♥心 阻止他们，然互说
You're not gonna stuff 'em right at that moment and say...
“伙计，你说什么呢？ 你无法再去梅鲁峰了
Dude, what are you talkin' about? You're never goin' back to Meru.
你无法再登山了“ 你说不出这样的话
You're never goin' climbing. You just don't say those kind of things.
我们就要... 我们很快就能去了
We'll see how it- see how it does at altitude at some point.
在我知道雷南稳定后...
[Jimmy] Once I knew Renan was stable...
我就得去杰克森完成工作
I headed back to Jackson to try and finish the job.
直到吉米回来前...
[Jeremy] As far as Jimmy coming back...
如果吉米说”我不做了
no one would have said anything if Jimmy said, "I'm not going to do it."
我放弃了“没有人会有意见
Um, I'm done.
这些都是个人决定
Those are real personal decisions.
感觉就像是”好的，你得 摆好心态回去“
It was kind of a, "All right, you have to get back on the horse" mentality.
五四三二一
Five, four, three, two, one.
贾维尔·德勒鲁
Xavier de Le Rue. - [Beeps]
下降
Dropping!
整个的气氛很轻松
[Jeremy] The general mood was pretty light.
我们的目的达到了，很好
Our objective for the day had been reached. Good vibes.
我们在开始之前的安排是...
Our conversation before dropping in was...
一次来一段，确保每个人的安全
go one at a time, make sure everyone's in a safe spot.
下降
Dropping!
所以，杰瑞米做了几个转弯
[Jimmy] So, Jeremy made a couple turns.
滑到了安全区域的边缘
Cut up on the side of this safe zone.
叫我进去，然后我跟着他的 线路转弯了
Called me in, and I make a turn right next to his turn.
然后，然后我感觉到了
And then- And then I feel it-
整个山坡都在移♥动♥
The whole slope shift.
我大叫着”雪崩了“
[Jeremy] I yell, "Avalanche."
只是大叫着”快走，快走“
Just screaming, "Get out, get out, get out."
一开始，看起来像是慢镜头
[Jimmy] For a moment, it looks like slow motion.
接下来，一切看起来都很迅速
And the next moment, everything went to fast-forward.
然后我被卷进去
And it just- I got swept.
被抛到空中
I'm airborne.
感觉毫无重量
Totally weightless.
然后我就看不见他了 吉米从我眼前消失了
And I lost sight of him. That was the last I saw of Jimmy.
崩落的雪在不断的往下走
And the slide just kept going and going and going and going.
我被压倒在汽车大小的雪海里
[Jimmy] I just got crushed under an ocean of car-sized blocks.
速度大约有七八十英里
Probably going 70, 80 miles an hour...
垂直下降了两千英尺
down 2,000 vertical feet.
在我心中，我听到这个声音
And in my mind, I heard this voice...
有着这样的一段对话
having this conversation that was like...
我一直想知道我是怎么似的
Wow, I- I always wondered how I was gonna die...
现在我知道了
and now- now I know.
我本以为会被撕成碎片
I was just expecting to get torn to pieces.
但是一阵子之后 速度开始慢了下来
But after a while, it started to slow down.
然后一阵奇怪的暗流开始把我从雪里推起来
And this weird undercurrent started pushing me up through the snow.
在最后的关头
And at the last moment...
我从它们顶部弹出来
I popped out of the toe of this thing...
积雪淹没了我的胸口
buried up to my chest.
当时我的想法是 ”我的天，我没事“
I was in that moment being like, "Oh, my God. I'm in one piece."
我咳出胸口的一大块雪 然后大口呼吸
Like, I coughed up this huge chunk of snow, and I took this huge breath...
然后感觉
and I was like- [Gasping]
我看着我的手臂 当时的感觉是
And I looked at my arms, and I was like, I mean...