攀登梅鲁峰（2015）

不能光擅长高海拔行动 也不能只是一个优秀的攀岩者
You can't just be good at altitude. You can't just be a good rock climber.
你得能冰面攀登，混合攀登
You gotta be able to ice climb, mix climb.
而且要能在2万英尺的海拔上 攀登垂直的岩壁
And you gotta be able to do big-wall climbing at 20,000 feet.
这就像个各种困难组成的大礼包
It's all that stuff wrapped in one package...
已经击败了数不清的攀登者
that's defeated so many good climbers...
它可能还会击败你，并不断 击败之后的挑战者
and will probably defeat you and maybe will defeat everybody for all time.
它给人的这种精神挑战
That, to a certain kind of mind-set...
是你无法抗拒的诱惑
is an irresistible appeal.
当我们到达那里，我抬头看着群山
[Renan] When we actually got there, and I looked up at the mountain...
我不知道...
I didn't know... what-
之后将会遇到什么，因为我以前 从没见过这么复杂的情况
what we were getting into, 'cause I'd never seen something that complex before.
雷南经验不足让我有了 充足的理由暂停攀登
[Conrad] Renan's inexperience really didn't give me any reason to pause.
我知道他很强壮，他了解整个系统
I knew he was strong enough. He knew the systems.
作为团队，你们能汇聚 所有团员的经验
And as a team, you're the sum total of all your experience.
我跟康拉德参加过不少次远征
[Renan] I'd been on a number of expeditions with Conrad.
但从没跟他一起真正进行过攀登
But I hadn't done any serious climbs with him.
也从没跟吉米一起攀登过
And I had never done a climb with Jimmy.
我非常坚定的要求
I'm so adamant about only going on expeditions...
只跟我了解并信任的人一起行动
with people that I know and that I trust.
这条规矩只有一个例外
And there's one exception to that rule...
那就是如果一个我非常非常信任 并且了解的人，比如康拉德
and that's if somebody that I really, really trust and know well, like Conrad...
他水哦，这个人值得带上
says, "This guy's worth bringing up."
我听说了雷南，并在一部 关于攀登的电影里看过他
[Conrad] I had heard about Renan, and I'd seen him in a climbing film...
他在里面独自攀登北六枪峰
where he was, uh, free soloing North Six Shooter.
我心想，好吧，得认识一下雷南
So I was like, "Okay. Gotta meet Renan."
我看到雷南独自攀爬闪电岩的录像
[Krakauer] I saw this clip of Renan free soloing Lighting Bolt Cracks.
你看到他做那些事情 确实是真刀真枪爬的
You see him do that stuff, and it looks out there.
他看着就好像什么东西 在他脚底下点了一团火
He looks like something's lit a fire under him.
我听说这个孩子是个 极具天分的攀登者
[Jimmy] I heard about this kid who's a super-talented climber.
他跟大部分流浪登山者
And he was living on the road...
特别是来到出发地点的攀登者一样
like most climbing bums...
就住在路边
especially climbers that are coming into the scene.
只是他连车都没有
Except for he didn't even have a car.
他就是搭顺风车进的沙漠
He was literally just dropped off in the desert.
第一次见到雷南时，他正在 素描本上画画
When I first met Renan, he was mostly creating art in sketchbooks.
一些小小的画
Smaller-scale stuff.
然后他开始准备巨大的帆布 出去进行远征
And then he started taking big canvases out on expeditions.
因为现在他已经开始进行 更多远征了
Cause he was- At this point, he was starting to go on more expeditions.
他珍惜每次机会，而且几乎从不停止
Every opportunity was appreciated, and he was basically going nonstop.
呼
Whew.
早晨5点30，该出发了
5:30 in the evening. Time to start the route.
现在非常冷
It's... crisp and cold.
我们在等太阳转过去
We're waiting for the sun to move away.
这样碎冰就会冻上
So it'll set up and will freeze.
这是最好的机会
Uh, this is the best moment-
等一切安定下来 你就能真正开始了
That... moment where everything comes down, and you're really starting.
当然，离开根戈德里和波兹南时 我也是这么说的
Of course, I said that when we left Gangotri and when we left Bozeman.
但今晚我们要在山上露营
But... now we're gonna camp on the mountain tonight.
康拉德2003年第一次尝试攀登梅鲁峰
[Krakauer] Conrad first tried Meru in 2003...
结果彻底失败了
and got his ass kicked.
这是非常需要技巧的攀登 不比珠穆朗玛峰
It was super-technical climbing. This isn't Everest.
这是完全不同的攀登
This is a whole different kind of climbing.
因为在珠穆朗玛峰你可以雇夏尔巴人 帮你背东西
Cause on Everest, you can hire Sherpas to carry all your stuff...
为你修绳子，承担大部分的风险
to fix the ropes for you, to take most of the risks.
吉米和康拉德已经爬了4,5次珠峰
Jimmy and Conrad have climbed Everest four or five times.
吉米还在峰顶滑过雪
Jimmy's even skied off the top.
但梅鲁和珠峰完全相反
But Meru is the anti-Everest.
没人会给你背东西
No one's gonna carry your stuff.
如果你需要什么 就得自己背在背上
If you need it, you need to carry it on your back.
对梅鲁来说，为了攀登 你得带上很多东西
And for Meru, you need a lot of tools to do the job.
因为一路你都在不停攀爬
Because the climbing covers the whole spectrum.
这一段1500英尺的垂直岩壁，鲨鱼鳍 还算是光滑
This upper 1,500 feet, the Shark's Fin, is smooth.
它非常干净，几乎毫无难度
It's clean. It's nearly featureless.
但在那之下是4000英尺的 粗糙的岩壁，上面堆积着雪
But below that is 4,000 feet of really gnarly climbing- this fluted snow.
非常危险而且暴露在风中
Dangerous, exposed.
所以人们会反覆轻装尝试 那段4000英尺的路程
So, time after time, guys would do that first 4,000 feet, light and fast...
以为自己真的能行了
thinkin' they're really studs.
然后他们到达鲨鱼鳍下 那是面巨大的墙壁
And then they get to the Fin, and it's a big wall.
在梅鲁的上半部分你得使用 攀登大块岩壁的技巧
And you gotta use big wall techniques on the upper part of Meru.
那种攀登你得慢慢来
And you gotta go slow for that kind of climbing.
可能一天只能爬200英尺
Maybe you'll only do 200 feet in a day.
要爬上那1500英尺可能会 花去你6,7天
Maybe it's gonna take you six or seven days to do that top 1,500 feet.
如果要慢慢来花上那么长时间 你就需要悬挂帐篷
And if it's gonna take you that long, if you're going slow, you need a portaledge.
你需要食物，水和燃料
You need food and water and fuel.
这些东西加一起就快200磅了
Pretty soon, that's, like, 200 pounds of stuff.
你还需要巨大的挂墙架 一个50磅重的铁疙瘩
You need a big wall rack, 50 pounds of iron.
所以你得背着那200都磅的废品 爬上最初的4000英尺
So you gotta get that 200 pounds of crap up the first 4,000 feet.
没有哪一个初次攀登的人
And none of the previous climbers-
包括康拉德，都不相信这些
and Conrad, his first time- they couldn't believe that.
他们不打算那么爬
They're not gonna climb that way. - [Groans]
驼峰一样的路，有点感觉到 海拔的影响了
Humpin' loads. Feel the altitude a bit.
但康拉德在第一次尝试后说
[Krakauer] But Conrad after that first time said, "Huh."
原来是这样，我懂了，这是上帝显灵
Here's the deal. I see this, this epiphany.
你得通过攀爬岩墙来把东西弄上去
You gotta do this big wall style and get your stuff up there.
伙计，怎么样 - 还...
[Jimmy] Man, how's it going? - It's goin'-
夜间行动，现在暂时不爬了 幸好螺丝都很硬
Nighttime ops. Out climbing. Luckily, the screws are solid.
我们为什么要做这些？
Now, why do we do this stuff?
风景，风景
The view. The view.
现在应该是凌晨2点，我们在山脊
I think it's 2:00 in the morning. We went for the ghetto bivy...
而不是平台上搭好了睡袋
on the shoulder instead of setting up the ledge.
这样要轻松一点，我有些韩国...
It's a lot easier. We got some Korean-
告诉我没有搭设任何帐篷的真正原因
[Jimmy] Tell us the reason why- the real reason why we didn't set up anything.
因为我们有点担心
[Both Chuckle] - 'Cause we're worked a little bit maybe.
情况可能会更严重，现在天空 可能会朝我们倾泻下来
Could be worse. The sky could be, like, unloading on us right now.
看看这里的情况
Look what's happening over here.
那是康拉德躺在雪中
That's Conrad lying in the snow.
这是我可怜的睡袋
And here's my really pathetic bivy.
好惨啊
[Shivering] Oh, grim.
你知道很惨，特别是...对
You know it's grim when you're- Yeah.
特别是睡袋直接扔在雪莉的时候 - 对
When you bivy directly on the snow. - [Jimmy] Yeah.
而且睡袋也有点结冰了
And it's snowing out a little bit too.
第一缕阳光
[Sighs] Very first light.
从2点就开始了
Goin' since... 2:00-ish.
今天已经犯了一些错误了
Pretty much made a bunch of mistakes already today.
好像又一次
Takin' me to school...
回到学校
Yet again.
但我们进展很顺利
But, we're makin' good progress...
把200磅的负重
haulin' 200-pound loads...
送上了位于16000英尺的
up a 3,000-foot snow filter...
3000英尺的雪层上
at 16,000 feet.
那片云很快就要来了
See that system comin' in here pretty soon.
康拉德一起在世界各地进行过一些
[Jimmy] Conrad and I have been through some tough expeditions together...
非常艰难的探险
all around the world.
我们攀登过巴基斯坦的K7
We were on K7 in Pakistan.
在德纳里峰滑雪，一起攀登过珠峰
We skied Denali, and we've been on Everest together.
康拉德在登山者中的名声完美无瑕
Conrad's reputation among climbers is flawless.
讽刺的是他是因为在 攀登珠峰的过程中找到了马洛里的尸体
The irony is he became world famous for finding Mallory's body...
才闻名世界
during an Everest climb...
而不是凭借自己挑战世界各地 奇难险阻而出名
instead of for his difficult first ascents around the world.
大部分我这一代攀登者都是看着 他的探险故事长大的
Most of my generation of climbers grew up following his expeditions.
那时候我根本想像不到 居然能跟他一起攀登
Back then I'd never imagined I'd actually get to climb with him.
所以也很难相信我们居然能 作为攀登搭档合作7年
So it's hard to believe this will be almost seven years as climbing partners.
雪有点大
[Chuckles] - [Jimmy] It got a little snowy.
对
[Conrad] Yup.
但我们一心往上爬 - 对
But we're committed to going up. - Yeah.
只是会稍微下点雪，不过挺好的
It's only gonna be snowy for a little bit. Then it's gonna be nice.
对吧？
Right? [Chuckles]
我们现在就跟盯着一个乒乓球内部一样
Meanwhile we look out into inside of a Ping-Pong ball.
风暴来了
[Jimmy's Voice] A storm came...
我们挣扎着搭好悬挂帐篷
and we fought to build our hanging portaledge camp.