攀登梅鲁峰（2015）

如果你在山上这可不是很好的想法
That's not good to be thinkin' when you're that far out there.
但他就在想，伙计，我不能死
He is thinkin', "Man, I cannot die now...
我要为了妻子和孩子们坚持下去
because then I've blown it for my wife and kids."
珍妮根本不知道
Jenni has no idea.
她根本不知道他究竟在那里做什么
She has no fucking idea what he is really doin' out there.
该死
Fuck.
我们都有点累了
We're all just kind of frayed.
在这里呆了16天，尽了一切努力
Sixteen days up here, just givin' it everything we have.
进度非常缓慢
It's been really slow.
事实上我们已经没有燃料了
And, uh, we're running out of fuel actually.
也没有食物，香烟和纸张
Um, and food. And cigarettes and papers.
明天就需要做出决定
But tomorrow is kind of the decider.
如果我们...
If we, uh...
没有征服这一面巨大而陡峭的拱璧
don't get up and around this big, steep headwall...
我们就得放弃，但是...
we're gonna have to pull the cord, but, uh...
我们明天还有最后的机会
we got one last push tomorrow.
吉米的优点是 他非常的理性，敢担当
Jimmy's strength is that he's very rational and accepting...
对我们的情况很了解
and real in what we can do.
我们第一次见面的时候 我就马上意识到...
When we first met, I realized right away...
我们之间会是一种师徒关系
there was a mentorship that was going to blossom.
我也很快♥感♥受到他的 奋发图强和决定
I also immediately sensed that he was driven and determined.
我不知道为什么
And I never really knew why. - [Shutter Clicking]
我父母叫我小胖
My parents called me Xiao-pang.
意思是“小胖子”
It means "Little Chub."
我父母在共♥产♥主义革命时期 不得不逃离中国
[Jimmy's Voice] My parents had to escape from China during the Communist Revolution.
他们都经历过很多事情
They both went through a lot.
他们来到美国开始新生活
They came to the United States to make a new life.
我认为他们对我有着很高的期望
And I think they had really high expectations for me.
我父亲是个凶悍的人
My dad was a hard-ass.
在冬天，我们会有很多的木头取暖
In the wintertime, we would get cords of wood to heat the house.
他会把木头放在我们那个大院里
And he'd put it in the back of this huge yard we had...
然后让我在齐膝深的雪里 用雪橇拖回去
and make me drag it back on a sled in thigh-deep snow.
他真的十分严格
He was really about being tough.
对于他们来说 登山不是职业
Mountain climbing, it wasn't a career to them.
我妈妈以前总是跟我打电♥话♥...
My mom used to call me all the time...
哀叹她的儿子是个无家可归的人...
and lament about the fact her son was this homeless man...
一直到处徘徊，露营，没有家
who wandered around and camped and didn't have a home.
但是当我经历完一段 艰难的离婚过程后...
But when I went through a difficult divorce...
打电♥话♥给吉米，不停的哭泣和抱怨...
and called Jimmy, crying, upset...
他说的第一句话是 ”来和我一起生活“
his first words were, "Come stay with me."
于是，我们就那样 搬进了他的单身公♥寓♥
So, we just moved into his bachelor pad.
两个孩子，把他们的玩具都带上了
Two kids, all their markers and Legos. [Chuckles]
是的
Yeah.
他就那样接受了我们
And he just took us right in.
你知道，他是一个非常成熟的登山者
[Krakauer] You know, he's another one of these extremely accomplished climbers.
你不会注意到他是个 多么优秀的登山者...
You don't appreciate how good a climber he is...
因为你会被他的作品分心...
because you get distracted by the art...
也许这就是他喜欢的方式
which is probably the way he likes it.
拍照使得攀登的过程更加困难
And taking pictures makes the climbing Way harder.
他母亲病重的时候他 正在记录珠穆朗玛峰远征
He was filming this Everest expedition, and his morn got really sick.
他知道后就离开了 为了能见母亲最后一面
And he found out about it and had to leave so he could see her before she died.
我母亲很早之前就让我保证 她的意思是...
[Jimmy] My mom had made me promise fairly early on, she was like...
如果你想以这个为生 你就得答应我一件事
If you're gonna make this your life, you need to promise me one thing.
你得保证不死在我前头
You have to promise me that you will not die before me.
所以当我在登山和探险的时候...
And when I was on climbs and on expeditions...
到了一个具体的程度我就会想
I would get to a certain point, and I would say, "Okay.
继续下去有没有破坏承诺的可能？
How close am I willing to go to potentially break that promise?"
所以，在我母亲死后
So, after my mom died...
当我再次到达以前的临界点时
when the climbing started to get into that place...
就会有”好的，我现在能做了“ 的那种感觉
I remember a moment being like, "Well, I can go for it right now."
康拉德在上面，找不到好的立足点
[Renan] Conrad's up there. Can't find good gear.
我们的四肢冻得失去了知觉
Our hands and feet are all frost-numb.
很好，拉德
Nice, Rad.
做得好
Good move.
我们现在海拔大约是20500英尺
We're probably at about 20,500 feet.
在山脊上
Just short of the ridge.
这里太冷了
It's fucking Arctic.
今天是向顶点冲锋的日子
Today's our summit bid.
过来吧
[Renan] Bring it in.
好的，拉德
[Conrad] Whoo! - [Renan] Yeah, Rad!
很好
Nice!
攀登游戏的诀窍就是 尽可能好的开辟道路
[Krakauer] The game in climbing is cut that line as fine as you can.
但是你不想进行愚蠢的冒险
But you don't want to take stupid risk.
如果你因为愚蠢的举动死了 那么你就不仅会死...
If you die taking a stupid risk, not only are you dead...
而且会让自己很尴尬 让自己不光彩
but you've embarrassed yourself and you've disgraced yourself.
你不能轻易冒险
You're not supposed to take risk lightly.
你应该表现出你的优异 你对于情况的掌控...
You're supposed to show that you're so good and so controlled...
你能完美的开辟道路，走的更远
you can take it right to that line and go no further.
这是个很特别的早晨 我们从两点就开始了
[Jimmy] It's been a super long morning. Started at 2:00.
也许还有500英尺才能到顶点
Probably another 500 feet to the summit.
我们向着顶点的山脊进发
[Jimmy's Voice] We're gunning for the summit ridgeline...
康拉德正在钻过这突出的雪檐
and Conrad's burrowing through this overhanging cornice.
雷南处在火线之中
Renan is in the line of fire.
雪和冰从150英尺高处落下
Snow and ice falling 150 feet...
直接打在雷南身上
just slamming Renan.
被他踢下来的碎冰和雪块
[Renan] All the shrapnel and the ice that he was kicking down...
都落到了我身上
was going directly onto me-
就像是洪水一般
like, constant deluge.
我感觉我的手指和脚趾 在一点点的失去知觉
And I could really feel that I was losing my fingers and toes.
我开始大叫... 大声嚎叫和大呼
I started just screaming... and yelling and crying.
那绝对到达了我的极限
That was my absolute last breaking point.
当我到了上面之后 我说了”我的脚不太好“之类的话
I even said something when I got up there, like, "My feet aren't doing so well."
他们没有回答我说的话
They didn't even acknowledge what I said.
他们当时正说着在那过夜
They were talking about spending the night there.
康纳德和我在谈话...
[Jimmy] Conrad and I are having a conversation like...
讨论是否有适合扎营过夜的地方
Is there a spot to bivy? Is there a spot for us to spend the night?
试着在这个小小的角落睡觉
Trying to sleep perched on this tiny little corner...
在两万英尺的高处，没有睡袋
at 20,000 feet without sleeping bags...
手指和脚趾有坏死的风险
and risk fingers and toes.
如果我们推进呢？我们应该推进吗？
[Jimmy] What if we push on? Should we push on?
如果你选择继续 在那里过夜...
If you go for it and you spend the night out...
也许会发现那里比你想的要高
there's a probability that's higher than you want...
那么你就得回去
that you... aren't gonna come back.
差一点就到顶点了
Just shy of the summit.
现在是四点，第17天
It's 4:00, and we're at 17 days.
我们都累爆了 - 今早午夜就开始了
We're fuckin' roasted. - Started out this morning at midnight.
如果我们今天尝试登顶 就意味着我们今晚得露营
If we go today and attempt to the summit, that means we're gonna be out tonight...
在非常寒冷的气候下 于两万英尺的地方进行临时露营
and an unplanned bivouac at 20,000 feet in really cold climate...
没有保护措施和足够的食物
without proper protection and without sufficient food...
看来毫无可行性
just doesn't make any sense.
结束了
[Renan] It's over.
离顶点一百来米
A hundred meters short of the summit.
我们没有足够的把握做到
We just don't have the safety margin to make it.
转身不简单，但是...
It's not easy turning around. But-
该死，这件事太打击人了
Fuck, this thing was an ass-kicker.
也许它是无法被征服的
Maybe it just wasn't meant to be climbed.
但我不会回来
But I'm not coming back.
我是说，那太...
I mean, that's just so- [Exhales]
适合？
[Jimmy Fitting?]
宇宙的中心是... - 无法到达
the center of the universe is- - Unattainable.
当我们最后做出了下去的决定...
[Renan's Voice] When we finally made the decision to go down...
就像是一阵安慰
it was a relief.
同时也令人心碎
Uh, it was also heartbreaking.
我们的双脚就像灌了铅 我们非常的虚弱
Our feet are... hammered and we're just emaciated.
当我们从山上下来
[Renan] When we got down off the mountain...
我们面临的情况是 冻伤和战壕足
our condition was this combination of frostbite and trench foot.
战壕足就是当你...
Trench foot is what you get...
当你的手和脚长时间处于
when your feet and your hands are in this wet, damp condition...
潮湿的条件下开始腐烂的现象
for a long period of time, and they start to rot.
我为此坐上了轮椅 好几周无法行走
I came back in a wheelchair. I couldn't really walk for a few weeks.